In 1929 the aromatic white grape Kerner was bred in Germany by crossing the red variety Trollinger (also known as Schiava Grossa or Vernatsch in various parts of Italy) with the noble white grape Riesling. Not authorized for general cultivation until 1969, the Kerner quickly became the most planted modern German cross. That being said, there has been a trend in Germany since the mid-90s to pull out modern cross varietals and total acreage is now less than half of the amount at its height.
Funnily, it is from Northern Italy where most Americans get to sample wine from this grape. Though plantings amount to about 1/150th of those in Germany, the combination of how well Kerner grows in the striking mountainous terroir of Alto Adige, coupled with the fact that no white varietal dominates there, helped lay the foundation for it doing well. But it takes attention and care for the varietal to excel and a handful of producers seem to offer just that, Kofererhof being one of them.
The Kofererhof estate has existed for over 850 years, but it was acquired by the Kerschbaumer family in 1940. Originally selling off their grapes to other wineries, the family began bottling its own wine in 1995, currently with a lineup of 6 white varietals and a total production of only 3,500 cases per year. Their tiny high altitude estate planted between 700 and 800 meters above sea level is ideal for aromatic white grapes due to the variation in temperatures from day to night, and their organic and low impact practices lead to concentrated and well-balanced wines.
Personally, I’d say their Kerner exemplifies this. I was fortunate to be introduced to their 2009 a few years back and have looked forward to their new release every year. The 2013 should be rolling out by the end of the summer so if you haven’t purchased their 2012 now is the time to source what little remains. Here is what Antonio Galloni has to say:
“One of the house flagships, the Kerner is absolutely gorgeous in 2012. Bright green pears, apples, white flowers, crushed rocks and mint all jump from the glass as the Kerner shows off its inimitable personality. Drink this precise, crystalline white over the next few years.” 93pts Vinous
At $24.95 it doesn’t make sense to not secure some to enjoy over the next few years.