Working in wine, I’m lucky to have access to wines from all over the world. So what has caught my palate recently? Cool climate Syrah. While Syrah has been more associated with the jammy style of Australian Shiraz or California’s high-temp Paso Robles, this grape has so much more to offer. “Floral”, “iron-veined”, “spiced berry”, “feminine elegance”, “perfect acidity”—all are often applied to Syrah grown in choice locations, cooled by wind, fog, or altitude. It’s easy to see why I’ve been seeking out these wines for my cellar and my table more and more! I’m happy to highlight today a bottle that I have especially enjoyed lately—the 2013 Gramercy Cellars Lower East Syrah.
Gramercy, whose name comes from the French “grand merci”, or “big thank you”, has been making drinkers thankful since 2005 under the auspices of Greg Harrington. A master sommelier since the impressively young age of 26, Harrington is equally at home in a restaurant (he once ran Emeril Lagasse’s wine program) as he is in the vineyard. His prowess soon earned Gramercy acclaim, being included in Wine and Spirits Magazine’s “Top 100 Wineries in the World” at a mere 5 years old!
This success is in large part due to Gramercy’s dedication to letting the wines show their Washington origin. The name Lower East refers to the southeast portion of the Columbia Valley AVA. This winemaking region features a wide range of growing conditions with different levels of elevation, sun, and rainfall. Harrington takes full advantage of this variation, sourcing grapes from prime locations throughout the area.
In the glass, you could never mistake this for an Aussie! The nose features blue flowers and dark, tart fruit intermingled with cedar and the unique blood note I sometimes find in Northern Rhone Syrah. The palate shows evidence of their restrained use of oak and whole cluster fermentation. There’s an aromatic lift with smooth tannins and bright, sweet yet tangy fruit. The wine evolves in the mouth, the finish turning darker with lasting plum skin and spice and concentrating its berry flavors. In pairing, I would treat this wine almost as I would a New World Pinot Noir. Lamb would be an excellent choice and a side of rosemary potatoes will help bring out this wine’s floral and herbal notes even further.
When compared to Northern Rhone Syrah that can reach into the hundreds of dollars, the Gramercy Cellars Lower East Syrah at $21.99 represents a fantastic value. But be careful—like me, once you try this style you may be hooked!