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2016 Brane Cantenac

2016 Brane Cantenac

Featured Review
So much ripe and sweet tobacco on the nose with currant and blackberry character. Full body, intense tannins with density and beauty. It’s a wine with great structure and panache for this estate. Try after 2024. James Suckling

James Suckling |

Critic Reviews

So much ripe and sweet tobacco on the nose with currant and blackberry character. Full body, intense tannins with density and beauty. It’s a wine with great structure and panache for this estate. Try after 2024.

James Suckling | 96 JS
The 2016 Brane-Cantenac has been on a roll of late, under the watchful eye of Henri Lurton. This latest bottled vintage is superb. The divine, pure blackberry and bilberry bouquet develops touches of graphite in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, silky-smooth texture and a superb bead of acidity. This is not a powerful Brane-Cantenac, and it is perhaps less austere than I suspected en primeur, but it should drink beautifully over the next three decades. If you have a penchant for traditional claret, it really doesn’t come better than this.

Vinous Media | 96 VM
The 2016 Brane-Cantenac is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Carmenere picked from 22 September until 17 October (the tiny parcel of Carmenere picked three days later). The yields came in at 51 hectoliters per hectare and it is matured in 75% new oak and 25% one-year-old barrels, the final alcohol level 13.3%. It has a beautifully defined, very detailed bouquet with mineral-rich black fruit laced with cedar and graphite notes, living up to its nom de plume as the "Pauillac of Margaux." The palate is simply the best that I have ever tasted at the estate, without question. This has presence, but also weightlessness, filigree tannin and perfectly pitched acidity, with real intensity and drive. The tension here is outstanding and the persistence is incredibly long. It is not the showiest of all the 2016s by a long stretch, and yet it is everything you could possibly want from a Margaux. Like Beychevelle this year, the 2016 Brane-Cantenac puts recent vintages in the shade, thanks not only to the growing season, but also a new punching down system in their gravity-fed winery that was completed in 2015. The 2016 is a benchmark against which future vintages will be compared.

Robert Parker Neal Martin | 96-98 RP-NM
It's clear how well this wine is constructed in 2016. Vibrant cassis and violet notes are joined by a powerful shot of freshness then an austere finish with touches of white pepper, showing poise and power. A touch of Carmenère is now making a regular appearance in this wine. It represents 39% of the estate's production, from a 51hl/ha yield in 2016. Drinking Window 2025 - 2045.

Decanter | 95 DEC
I missed this wine in my recent 2016 Bordeaux report, but I was able to purchase a bottle locally. A tremendous Margaux, the 2016 offers the quintessential elegance of the appellation as well as plenty of density, concentration, and ripe tannins. Beautiful notes of blackcurrants, tobacco leaf, cedarwood, and flowery incense all emerge from the glass, and it builds nicely with air, offering medium to full body, flawless balance, and a great finish. This is classic Margaux as well as a classic 2016. It’s already approachable, and I doubt it will close down, yet it’s going to develop additional nuances with another 4-6 years of bottle age and have 25-30 years of prime drinking.

Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JD
This firm, structured wine is solid with tannins and with the weight associated with the vintage. The fruitiness is as important, an explosion of rich berry flavors that will give pleasure as the wine matures. Drink from 2025

Wine Enthusiast | 95 WE
Shows a coffee edge, along with tobacco and bay notes that meld steadily into the core of steeped plum and black cherry fruit. The fleshy finish lets the bay element take an encore. A touch old-school.

Wine Spectator | 90-93 WS

Wine Details for 2016 Brane Cantenac

Type of Wine Bordeaux Red : Picture in your mind a combination of cedar, lead pencil, blackcurrant, plum and mineral aromatics, and texture that caresses your palate like a playful lover. The experience is thrilling from the first whiff to the final seconds of a tannic, generous finish - that is what you'll get from a Bordeaux Red
Varietal Red Bordeaux Blend : The inhabitants of the Bordeaux region of France have been cultivating wine-grapes for thousands of years. Ancient Roman ruins litter the vineyards from Saint Emilion to Graves where the art of blending Bordeaux varietals has been practiced and perfected over a very long history. Bordeaux’s climate, terroir and soils, though varied, provide the optimal growing conditions for the red grape varietals planted in the region.

Rarely listed on the labels as “blend,” the red wines of Bordeaux are perhaps the most artfully designed and celebrated in the world. The calculated art of blending the native Bordeaux varietals is impressively accomplished in the most famous winegrowing region in the world. The phrase Bordeaux Blend which seems to have been coined by British wine merchants in the 19th Century relates as much to wines made from the blend as to the grape variety combination itself.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and occasionally Carmenere are the lead characters in the creation of Red Bordeaux Blends. Each plays a part in their own fashion and implemented in various combinations and percentages in each appellation within Bordeaux. Red Bordeaux Blends are majorly composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, roughly making up 90% of all Bordeaux Blends. Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec (occasionally Carmenere) are also important components and vital to the production of the region’s red wines.

For simplicity, the winegrowing region of Bordeaux can be divided into three main appellations producing Red Bordeaux Blends; the Left Bank (Medoc), Right Bank and Pessac-Leognan (Graves). The Left Bank has a terroir comprised of a wide variety of gravel, stones, sand, limestone and clay soils on a natural terrain of gentle slopes. This sets the stage perfectly for the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the dominant grape of the Left Bank. For example, Chateau Lafite (Paulliac) is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Right Bank is dominated by clay and limestone with sand and gravel, but the clay in the Right Bank is distinctly its own and adds to the health, growth and vitality of the vines of the varietals grown here. Right Bank wines are typically 80% Merlot-based, which are often denser, richer and mature earlier than those of the Left Bank (with exceptions – Petrus for example). Merlot is a vital component to Pomerol winegrowing and making. Cabernet Franc also plays a major role in the Right Bank, most notably, in Saint Emilion, where the infamous vineyards of Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc are planted to 55% and 52% Cabernet Franc, respectively. Chateaux that produce wines with a majority of Cabernet Franc are considered “old school” producers, but have perfected the use of Cabernet Franc, which was originally used as a blending grape.

Pessac-Leognan (Graves) enjoys a temperate climate, natural hygrometry influenced by the ocean, and has a terroir composed of gravelly soil over a clay subsoil on sloping, hilly terrain. Natural drainage due to the hilly terrain as well as the gravelly soil structure are perfectly attuned to the Cabernet Sauvignon grape vine, which prospers under these conditions. Pessac reaps the benefits of having the terroir of both the Left and Right Bank as it contains gravel and clay. The clay sub-soil allows the growth and success of Merlot, as well as Cabernet Franc. It is home to the only First Growth not in the Medoc. The 50-hectare vineyard of Haut Brion is planted to 45.4% Merlot, 43.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.7% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

The percentage of Petit Verdot and Malbec may be lesser in quantity, but not in quality. They are vital to the region’s creation of Red Bordeaux Blends. The combination of Bordeaux varietals is legendary in the region, around the world and has influenced winegrowers worldwide to plant and vinify wines which resemble those of Red Bordeaux Blends.

Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Subregion Margaux

Overview

Producer Chateau Brane Cantenac : Positioned on the Cantenac Plateau, in the heart of the illustrious Margaux appellation of Bordeaux, the renowned Chateau Brane-Cantenac stands proudly. Its history is a tale of a thriving relationship between man and earth, dating back over 250 years, yet growing stronger as time passes. It is a serene place where man’s talent, nature and modern technology clash in the creation of one of the most recognized names in the world of wine. While respecting tradition, the use of cutting edge techniques has evolved into a tedious winegrowing and making process that has helped place the Second Growth property in rare company.

What we know of today as Chateau Brane-Cantenac began in the 17th Century when it was a small but prosperous estate known as Hostein. Even in those days, wine of great quality was being produced from the property, the vineyards and estate being established and developed by the Gorce Family. In fact, the wine was so highly regarded, it was one of the most expensive wines in all of Bordeaux and selling for almost as much as Brane Mouton (what we know today as Chateau Mouton Rothschild). This is interesting given who went on to buy the vineyard in the 1800s.

The Baron of Brane, also known as “Napoleon de Vignes” purchased the chateau in 1833. Interestingly, in order to obtain the funds needed for purchase, the Baron sold his beloved estate, Chateau Brane Mouton and what is now the renowned Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The Baron renamed the property Brane-Cantenac, merging his name with the name of the sector where the vineyards were located. The estate would later be passed to the Roy family, who were well known in the Margaux appellation as they also owned Chateau d’Issan.

In 1920, the Societe des Grands Crus de France, a group of merchants and growers that owned several chateau located in the Medoc, including Chateau Margaux, Giscourse (Margaux) and Lagrange in Saint Julien, purchased Brane-Cantenac. Five years later, M. Recapet and his son-in-law, Francois Lurton took control over the estate. It has been passed down to the next generation and remains in the capable hands of Henri Lurton today.

This new era brought about many improvements to the estate, including the replanting of large portions of the vineyard, increasing vine density, a new drainage system was installed and a slow changing of their current plantings. The 75 hectare vineyard is planted to 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, .5% Petit Verdot (first used in 2017) and .5% Carmenere (first used in the 2011 vintage).

The vineyards are continuously micro-managed with a single goal in mind: producing the highest quality grapes and maintaining low yields. Replanting efforts in recent years and a movement toward organic growing has demonstrated the estate’s strong commitment to sustainable viticulture. Lurton attaches such great importance to vine canopy work, very strict selection and moderate yields. Between low yields and a strict picking process, production of the first wine is very limited.

In keeping with tradition and respect for its ancestry, the vineyards of the Left Bank estate have essentially remained unchanged since it earned Second Growth status in the 1855 Classification of the Medoc, with exception to the new plantings. This is an important aspect since Brane-Cantenac’s greatest asset is the amazing quality of its historic terroir.

The estate possesses some of Margaux’s very finest plots, with the heart and soul of the vineyard being a 45 hectare parcel close to and surrounding the chateau and considered to be the greatest terroir on the property. These vines are located just in front of the Cantenac Plateau, which rises 22 meters above sea level. Due to its location, the topography provides superb natural drainage; the stony soils forcing the roots of the vines to delve deep into the earth for sustenance. It is not regarded solely for the elevations, but for the depth of the gravel which can be 12 meters deep in some areas. The terroir is famous for its deep, gravelly and mineral rich soils.

Parcels located further inland are used in the production of their second wine, Baron de Brane (paying homage to the famous Baron Jacques-Maxime de Brane). The terroir here consists of gravel, sand and iron soils. Brane de Baron is produced in limited quantity, similar to the first wine. The estate scarcely produces a third wine, Margaux de brane and carries the famous gold and black label; a highly recognizable attribute.

Modernization was implemented in the cellars in 1999, in which smaller vats were installed to allow for parcel by parcel vinification (impressively, there are 120 separate parcels on the property). Again in 2015, a complete renovation of their cellars took place, including the vat rooms. They have embraced optical sorting technology and in very wet vintages, they can also use reverse osmosis.

Harvest is a magical time at Brane-Cantenac; the typically tranquil estate turns into a flurry of activity as everyone prepares to gather the fruit that has been painstakingly nurtured throughout the year. Scientific analysis and tasting of the grapes must take place before the order is given to harvest, picking only occurring once each plot reaches a point of perfect maturity. This cooperative operation between man and nature is an incredibly harmonious event.

While the growing process is a combined alliance between man and nature, the winemaking at Brane-Cantenac is a collaboration between man and technology. A rigorous sorting process is carried out on a variety by variety and plot by plot basis, while state of the art optical scanning equipment allows for unprecedented precision and quality control. The grapes are crushed, fermented, macerated and pressed before being transferred to the barrels. Each stage requires extreme patience and accuracy. While the wine ages in barrel for 18 months, systematic tasting is conducted to judge the pace of the wines evolution.

Brane-Cantenac is better after 10 years of bottle age and can reach its peak maturity between 12-35 years after the vintage. It is an elegantly styled Margaux that is on the lighter, fresher, cleaner, brighter and perhaps slightly stern, or classic side of the style range. The wine is produced in a traditional style and shows a little more in the aromatics than the body. For the past few decades, the quality has greatly increased at the estate.

Tradition must be matched with enterprising intellect and the constant ambition for improvement. Recent investments in an entirely new winery and significant upgrades to machinery mark a concerted effort to improve quality. Experimentation in the vat room and cellar ensures that the estate is also at the cutting edge of modern winemaking. Staying true to the estates legacy and the highest respect for terroir is a top priority at Bran-Cantenac. Despite its many technological advancements, wine at Brane-Cantenac is made in the vineyard and their vineyards are stamped with the will of men: a tradition that began centuries ago and continues to be honored to this day.


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