2017 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco Italy (Other)

2017 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco

98 JS

Featured Review

Intense aromas of white pineapple, lemon peel, white peaches and stones with a seashell undertone. Full-bodied yet still agile and vivid, showing beautiful mouthfeel and length. Salty at the end. Love the finish. Pure and unique. One of Tuscany's top whites from the island of Giglio. Made from ansonica grapes. James Suckling

James Suckling | 98 JS

This is one of those wines that is so viscerally linked to a sense of place, you actually feel transported there when you taste it. The 2017 Testamatta Bianco Isola del Giglio takes you on a momentary holiday to the Serrone vineyard on the beautiful Giglio Island off the coast of Tuscany. This is a terrestrial paradise where azure sea waves lap up against rounded granite rocks dotted with prickly pears, caper shrubs and 90-year-old grapevines. Testamatta Bianco is a pure expression of Ansonica from this one vineyard site on the southern and most remote side of the island facing the open Tyrrhenian Sea. Grapes are harvested by hand in extreme conditions and are both fermented and aged in neutral oak, with a small part in stainless steel just to loosen the wine's texture up a bit. The bouquet offers fragrant tones of apricot, honey and candied orange peel. This is a medium to almost full-bodied white with a touch of tannic structure that adds a bit of crunch and snap to the palate. However, what I find most alluring of all are those briny, sea salt flavors that are so deftly put on prominent display. There is no other white wine quite like this. A mere 2,200 bottles exist. It tastes as if you were eating a beautifully ripe summer peach while splashing around in foamy sea surf.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

Type of Wine	Italy (Other) : There are dozens of grape varietals grown in Italy so no wonder they produce such a broad range of most exquisite wines. Some of the most cultivated red varieties are Nebbiolo, Aglianico, Sangiovese, and Barbera, while Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are also popular. Among whites, you're likely to find Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, or Vernaccia varietals.
Varietal	Ansonica : The underappreciated and obscure Ansonica wine grape has become a sensation in Italy, where it is commonly utilized in varietal, blended and unique winemaking styles. It is becoming the Cinderella wine of the region, changing the minds of vintners and consumers alike. Ansonica has been used in Sicily (where it is known as Inzolia) for centuries; however, in the past few decades, the white grape has become immensely popular among winegrowers in Tuscany. The Ansonica grape has a long and complicated history with undetermined parentage and place of origin. What we do know is that the varietal is found in vineyards across Sicily, and of late has been infiltrating Maremma, which is known as Vermentino territory. The oblong shaped, thick-skinned Ansonica grape is yellow-golden in color with a bloomy rind. The pulpy of the berry is flashy and fragrant and has a lot of tannins. The plant grows large, straggly bunches and has traditionally been cultivated by manner of “bush-training;” however, more and more vintners are moving towards trellised-training due to the tight bunched clusters and their susceptibility to powdery mildew. It is widely used on the Islands of Giglio and Elba and in Maremma, Tuscany. It thrives in clay and sandy soils well above sea level, with an oceanic climatic influence. In Maremma, it has been used in blending with other local whites, including Grillo and Catarratto (both from Sicily) Vermentino and Damaschino. The novel technique of blending Ansonica with Chardonnay has been of great success. It is also becoming greatly popular as a single-varietal among many vintners. When made with precision, Ansonica on its own can yield bright wines with flavors of white stone fruit, salinity (sea spray material) and a nutty aftertaste. Wines made with Ansonica, in better productions, have good aromas of walnut, yellow fruit, acacia, broom and orange blossom with mineral nuances. They possess good body, thanks to the large amount of sugar. It has a good ability to raisin and therefore exploited in the production of sweet dessert wines in Tuscany and used in dry white, pure or blended in Marsala. Improved techniques and changing methods have altered its uses greatly, expanding growing locations and use of the increasingly popular Ansonica grape. According to Fabio Sereci, owner of Feudo Montoni, “Inzolia (Ansonica) is considered the Cinderella of wine, often undervalued, so much so that it is difficult to find in purity, and is often blended with more aromatic grapes, like Chardonnay or Grillo.” He insists that it gives the estate “a wine with strong aromatic impact and a sensuality on the palate accompanied by strong acidity, due to vineyard altitude (2,000 feet above sea level). It’s a Cinderella that becomes a princess.”
Country	Italy : Italy is renowned as one of the world’s greatest gastronomic havens; from certified Prosciutto di Parma to the sea-side seafood eateries on the island of Sicily. However, this epicurean experience could not possibly be as hedonistic without the ethereal combination of the country’s plethora of fine wines. It seems unfair that a nation should be able to boast, both, some of the world’s greatest cuisine as well as its greatest wines. Italian wine is one of the most sought after in the world, and has become the second most produced in the world, behind only France. Stretching an impressive 736 miles from northern Italy to the peninsula’s southern tip, the country’s geography generates an enormous array of topography, climate and soil structure. This is an extremely important quality of its winegrowing and making industry which lays claim to nearly 550 different grape varietals, which all desire their own necessities, in terms of terroir and climate. The still red wines of Italy truly characterize the nation’s vast and expansive terroir; Nebbiolo dominates Piedmont, where Barolo and Barbaresco reign king and queen of the region’s production. Hailing from Brunello di Montalcino in Tuscany, the rockstar Sangiovese grape has become synonymous with greatness. Vin Santo sweet wines have taken on a mighty feat of competing with the glorious wines of Sauternes, and of course, Prosecco. Prosecco, located in Trieste (northeast Italy) and its creation of luxuriously effervescent styles of wine has become Italy’s answer to Champagne. The Glera grape variety, which has become synonymous with the name Prosecco, is the main ingredient and is beloved in the appellation where the village of Prosecco’s name has become world renowned. The blurred boundary between Italy and the countries of Slovenia and Austria, where German influence still resonates through Friuli wines. The prevalence of Riesling and other such grape varietals is high in this region and have become extremely popular on today’s market. With nearly 702,000 hectares of grapevines covering the massive and diverse landscape, Italy’s annual average of 48.3 million hectoliters of wine production is second only to France in terms of volume and Spain in terms of hectares of vines. The country is vast and overwhelming when it comes to the culinary arts, but perhaps even this is overshadowed by its production of some of the world’s most sought after wines, whether the omnipresent Chianti to the highly collectible and sought after Amarone della Valpolicalla.
Region	Tuscany : Italian culture worships the concept of a shared meal, and their wines scream for a chance to be uncorked with your friends and family. The region's Mediterranean climate and hilly landscape combine to create a beautiful viticultural environment, where every chosen grape is brought to its full potential and transmuted into drinks worthy of gods. The vineyards are planted along the higher reaches of the hill slopes, creating a gorgeous view of the Italian landscape. Once your lips kiss the wine, you're sent spiraling down a veritable whirlpool of pure flavor, touching upon notes of sensuous cherry, nuts, floral hints and undertones of honey and minerals. The wines can be as sweet as a fresh summer romance, and carry an air of dignity and elegance about them that can stimulate your intellect for months as you contemplate the seemingly infinite intricacies and details in the texture. Tuscany is an important part of Italian viticulture, and sampling their wines is the closest you can get to visiting this heavenly region and experiencing the culture.