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2017 Cheval des Andes

2017 Cheval des Andes

100 JS

Featured Review
This is the greatest Cheval des Andes ever. Discrete aromas of blackberries, flowers, stone and licorice. So perfumed. The integration of fruit, tannins and acidity is fantastic. Full-bodied, tight and solid with beautiful depth and integrity. Extremely long and exciting. Complex and compelling with such refinement and length. A blend of 62% malbec and 38% cabernet sauvignon. Available in September 2020. Better after 2024. James Suckling

James Suckling | 100 JS

Critic Reviews

This is the greatest Cheval des Andes ever. Discrete aromas of blackberries, flowers, stone and licorice. So perfumed. The integration of fruit, tannins and acidity is fantastic. Full-bodied, tight and solid with beautiful depth and integrity. Extremely long and exciting. Complex and compelling with such refinement and length. A blend of 62% malbec and 38% cabernet sauvignon. Available in September 2020. Better after 2024.

James Suckling | 100 JS
In the last few years, a handful of wines from Chile and Argentina—often French owned—have been released in September through the Place de Bordeaux, the network of négociants that sell most of the Bordeaux wines and some of the leading wines from other regions. The 2017 Cheval des Andes is one such wine. 2017 saw an early harvest, but they started picking on the 6th of March and continued until the 10th of April, more or less normal dates, early but not so much. The varietal break down this vintage comes to 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wine is slightly riper and higher in alcohol than 2016 (this 2017 is 14.2% alcohol). The different plots fermented separately with selected yeasts, and the élevage lasted for 15 months and was in 50/50 new and second use barrels, 90% of them French and the rest made with wood from Eastern Europe. They used 45% Bordeaux barrels, 45% 400-liter barrels and, for the first time, a 2,500-liter oak foudre. This is clearly the darkest of the trio of vintages I tasted together here—2015, 2016 and 2017—but all three have the elegant and powerful profile, the luxurious and creamy character found in the best Bordeaux wines in the last few years, wines of power with precision, concentration, energy and finesse. This seems to combine the clout of the 2015 and the freshness of the 2016 and feels something in between those two vintages. Their work in the vineyard toward the maturity of the tannins meant the challenge in 2017 was to not let the grapes ripen too fast and too early. The work is different for Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, to get round tannins in Cabernet and get some tension in Malbec, the contrary of the normal tendency of the varieties. 2017 has less ripeness than the 2015 but more density than the 2016. The texture is velvety, precise and harmonious. This year, they introduced a larger foudre for 10% of the wine, with the aim to reach 20%, so that volume is increasing every year. I think this is showing more precision, and in a more challenging year, they managed to keep the quality on par with 2016. They have changed the label this year, to a cleaner and more elegant label that also reflects the direction the wine is going in. 81,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2019.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RP
A clear step up, the 2017 Cheval Des Andes brings more richness and texture, while still playing in this complex, elegant, beautifully balanced style. A slightly more Malbec-dominated blend of 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon (there’s no Petit Verdot) aged 15 months in 50% new oak, it offers beautiful currant and cassis fruits as well as tobacco, graphite, stony minerality, and spice aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and wonderfully textured, with remarkable purity and silky tannins, it’s another Bordeaux lover’s Mendoza that brings beautiful fruit, purity, and precision. Of the trio of vintages I was able to taste, this is the most complete, balanced, and structured. It’s a brilliant wine!

Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JD
The seventeenth vintage of Cheval des Andes, a wine that has undergone a model transformation. I recently tried the 2007, and it’s fascinating to trace the different stages of its evolution, all of which say something about the contemporary history of Argentine wine. To sum up, it started out with a French love of concentration and ripeness and ended up with an equally French love of equilibrium and local terroir. The 2017 is a new beginning in itself. A blend of Malbec with 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, it presents a bold nose of fresh fruit such as sweet and sour cherry with fleshy aromas and a touch of white pepper over a bold, woody backdrop. A fluid wine, slightly taut on the palate with medium structure, a delicate feel and active tannins well integrated into the terse texture, overall it is nuanced and full of flavor. Possesses a balance that respects the concentration of the vintage without ever letting it get out of hand. An Argentine wine made with more than a nod to French expertise.

Vinous Media | 95 VM
A warmer vintage in Mendoza, but one where Cheval des Andes clearly marks its new style with less oak influence and seeking a more austere fruit profile with fresh red fruit notes. The tannins are fine and elegant with finesse to the finish. (Drink between 2022-2035)

Decanter | 94 DEC
Elegant and well-structured, with intense coffee bean notes to the dried red currant and dark plum flavors. Minerally in the midpalate, with a long finish that features medium-grained tannins and is rich with savory spice and dried green herbal notes. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2027. 5,400 cases made, 2,250 cases imported.

Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Wine Details for 2017 Cheval des Andes

Type of Wine Argentina Red : If there were ever a single word that could perfectly describe fine Argentinian wines, it would be "purity." Red wine lovers could easily become spoiled for choice when that choice involves varietals such as Malbec or Tempranillo. With a complete dedication to a given grape, each bottle tells a compelling story, so have a seat and listen.
Varietal Red Bordeaux Blend : The inhabitants of the Bordeaux region of France have been cultivating wine-grapes for thousands of years. Ancient Roman ruins litter the vineyards from Saint Emilion to Graves where the art of blending Bordeaux varietals has been practiced and perfected over a very long history. Bordeaux’s climate, terroir and soils, though varied, provide the optimal growing conditions for the red grape varietals planted in the region.

Rarely listed on the labels as “blend,” the red wines of Bordeaux are perhaps the most artfully designed and celebrated in the world. The calculated art of blending the native Bordeaux varietals is impressively accomplished in the most famous winegrowing region in the world. The phrase Bordeaux Blend which seems to have been coined by British wine merchants in the 19th Century relates as much to wines made from the blend as to the grape variety combination itself.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and occasionally Carmenere are the lead characters in the creation of Red Bordeaux Blends. Each plays a part in their own fashion and implemented in various combinations and percentages in each appellation within Bordeaux. Red Bordeaux Blends are majorly composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, roughly making up 90% of all Bordeaux Blends. Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec (occasionally Carmenere) are also important components and vital to the production of the region’s red wines.

For simplicity, the winegrowing region of Bordeaux can be divided into three main appellations producing Red Bordeaux Blends; the Left Bank (Medoc), Right Bank and Pessac-Leognan (Graves). The Left Bank has a terroir comprised of a wide variety of gravel, stones, sand, limestone and clay soils on a natural terrain of gentle slopes. This sets the stage perfectly for the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the dominant grape of the Left Bank. For example, Chateau Lafite (Paulliac) is composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Right Bank is dominated by clay and limestone with sand and gravel, but the clay in the Right Bank is distinctly its own and adds to the health, growth and vitality of the vines of the varietals grown here. Right Bank wines are typically 80% Merlot-based, which are often denser, richer and mature earlier than those of the Left Bank (with exceptions – Petrus for example). Merlot is a vital component to Pomerol winegrowing and making. Cabernet Franc also plays a major role in the Right Bank, most notably, in Saint Emilion, where the infamous vineyards of Chateau Ausone and Chateau Cheval Blanc are planted to 55% and 52% Cabernet Franc, respectively. Chateaux that produce wines with a majority of Cabernet Franc are considered “old school” producers, but have perfected the use of Cabernet Franc, which was originally used as a blending grape.

Pessac-Leognan (Graves) enjoys a temperate climate, natural hygrometry influenced by the ocean, and has a terroir composed of gravelly soil over a clay subsoil on sloping, hilly terrain. Natural drainage due to the hilly terrain as well as the gravelly soil structure are perfectly attuned to the Cabernet Sauvignon grape vine, which prospers under these conditions. Pessac reaps the benefits of having the terroir of both the Left and Right Bank as it contains gravel and clay. The clay sub-soil allows the growth and success of Merlot, as well as Cabernet Franc. It is home to the only First Growth not in the Medoc. The 50-hectare vineyard of Haut Brion is planted to 45.4% Merlot, 43.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.7% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

The percentage of Petit Verdot and Malbec may be lesser in quantity, but not in quality. They are vital to the region’s creation of Red Bordeaux Blends. The combination of Bordeaux varietals is legendary in the region, around the world and has influenced winegrowers worldwide to plant and vinify wines which resemble those of Red Bordeaux Blends.

Country Argentina : Argentina’s landscape is marked by its extreme geographical features; from the soaring, rocky peaks of the Andes’ and coastal Patagonia to the arid soils of Mendoza to the fertile Pampas lowlands in the east. Its vast array of landscapes, climate and geography, along with truly accomplished and passionate vintners has helped galvanize its name among the very best wine producing regions in the world. Its adopted grape variety, Malbec, is now responsible for some of Argentina’s most famous wines and has helped to elevate its ever growing wine industry.



Vines have been cultivated in Argentina since the 1500’s; however it was not until the 1990s when its true potential was recognized, drawing the attention of accomplished winemakers to its diverse soils. After making a name for himself in California, Paul Hobbs’ foresight and vision led him to cultivate Argentinian soil. More than merely an exploration of terroirs, Vina Cobos was created to showcase what is possible with one of the world’s most compelling noble varietals, Malbec, in a land where its soul soars above all others. Its inaugural vintage marked a milestone, but two decades later, Cobos made history when the 2011 vintage Cobos Malbec became the country’s first professionally rated 100-point wine, defying existing standards and firmly positioning Malbec and Argentina on the international wine scene. This accomplishment became the blueprint that many others would follow.



Today, the high altitude deserts have given rise to a high quality wine industry. The region of Mendoza has gained global recognition for its quality production of Malbec, the ubiquitous and most compelling varietal cultivated in Argentina. Three quarters of Argentinian wine production takes place in Mendoza with Mendoza Malbec accounting for 85% of all Malbec produced in the country. In addition to its flagship varietal, Argentina also boasts significant plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Bonarda and its signature, aromatic white varietal, Torrontes. In more recent years, vineyards have been planted to Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Tempranillo.



Despite its location near the equator, extreme temperatures are muted by the high altitudes and cold mountain air. Argentina is home to a world-topping vineyard and currently the highest elevation being cultivated at a whopping 9,900 feet above sea level. The Andes’ play a significant role in its climate as it casts a rain shadow over its foothills, allowing very little rain fall and a slow growing season. This slow ripening period leads to concentrated fruit, balanced sugars and acidity in the grapes. From the southern reaches of Patagonia to the northern regions of Salta and Catamarca, the land plays a vital role in the winegrowing and making practices here. Its terroir is well suited to not only Malbec, but to the many varieties in the country’s portfolio.



Argentina boasts an impressive 223,500 hectares under vine with an annual wine output of 10.8 million hectoliters. The country has recently edged Australia’s production and now sits at fifth among all leading producers in the world. Argentina has become one of the most important wine producing countries on Earth, the largest region in South America and one of the principal faces of New World winemaking. Argentina is a remarkable land; one which truly tells its story through the wine itself.


Region Argentina : The largest wine producer in South America also holds its place as one of the most prominent winemaking regions in the world. Argentinian vineyards are mostly situated in the shadow of the Andes, on high altitudes but comfortably sheltered from rain, relying on meltwater for their irrigation. This fortunate terroir allows for a slow, steady ripening process which unmistakably provides wines that are consistently intense, vibrant, balanced between the sweetness and acidity with a bright, plump, fruity bouquet.

The first Argentinian wine that comes to mind is Malbec. Though the grape is adopted from Bordeaux, it's Argentina that produces some of the most luscious, richest, highest-quality Malbec wines today. Mostly produced in Mendoza, these gems brilliantly showcase the mighty but beautiful spirit of the Andes and the life that's being lead there. Home to Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bonarda varieties among many others, this region produces some of the finest bottles in the world. Potent yet layered, sweet but tart and packed with floral, black currant and spice flavors, these wines are not the ones to miss out on. If you're on the lookout for stunning reds, or delicate, floral, mouthwatering white wines, Argentina should make the top of your list.

Subregion Lujan de Cuyo
Appellation Vistalba

Overview

Producer C.Andes

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