2018 William Fevre Chablis Les Clos

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Wine Critic Reviews for 2018 William Fevre Chablis Les Clos

A subtle nose on this wine evokes chalk made moist with ripe Amalfi lemon juiciness. The palate plays these twin notions off each other in a subtle, fresh way, despite the concentration and depth. This wine is cool and zesty at its core but generous and lightfooted at the surface. Allow this to calm down and come forth with its compelling core. Drink by 2040.

Wine Enthusiast | 97 WE
(Chablis “les Clos”- Domaine William Fèvre) The 2018 les Clos from Domaine Fèvre is yet another absolutely beautiful example of the vintage. The bouquet is pure, precise and already gorgeously complex, offering up scents of pear, apple, beeswax, spring flowers, a very complex base of chalky minerality and a topnote of oyster shell. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very precise on the attack, with a great core of fruit, stellar minerality and a very long, very racy and complex finish. Great, great wine. (Drink between 2028-2070)

John Gilman | 96 JG
The Fèvre holdings in Les Clos are the envy of Chablis - seven parcels (five of them high on the slope) covering 4.14ha, with more than half over 60 years’ old. This is a brilliant expression of the Grand Cru, marrying power and intensity with focus, balance and palate length. Stylishly oaked, with the concentration to age, it’s a textbook white, showing white pepper and citrus flavours and notes of kelp and oyster shell. Drinking Window 2021 - 2033

Decanter | 96 DEC
The 2018 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another obvious success, mingling aromas of citrus and citrus confit with hints of beeswax, peach and pear in an inviting bouquet. Full-bodied, muscular and layered, it’s textural and fleshy, with a deep and tightly wound core, racy acids and a chalky finish. This is a fine effort that will improve with bottle age, but it is a bit more front-loaded out of the gates than the very fine 2017 rendition.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP
A very ripe, dense Chablis, yet it maintains energy and focus. Crushed-stone and mineral highlights. Full-bodied and formed with a solid core of fruit and energy. Drink or hold.

James Suckling | 95 JS
The 2018 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet of subtle lemon peel, Chinese white tea and jasmine aromas, very discreet and nicely focused. The palate is well balanced with a discreet spicy entry, very nice weight in the mouth and a harmonious, quite persistent finish. Possibly the best William Fèvre contribution to the 2018 vintage, this comes highly recommended.

Vinous Media | 94 VM
(Domaine William Fèvre Chablis - Les Clos Grand Cru White) Once again, the nose is both fresh and ripe and while it’s not quite as elegant and airy as the Côte Bouguerots there is every bit as much classic Chablis character. There is a really lovely mouthfeel to the sappy large-bodied flavors thanks to the copious quantity of dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine on the powerful, punchy and intensely saline-inflected finale. While there is a hint of backend warmth, this beautiful effort should age well while adding depth along the way. (Drink starting 2036)

Burghound | 93 BH
There is a fleshy core here, an ideal foil for its peach, melon and lemon flavors. As this plays out on the lingering finish, a mineral note emerges. Excellent harmony. Drink now through 2027. 120 cases imported.

Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Wine Details on 2018 William Fevre Chablis Les Clos

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Producer William Fevre: The northernmost wine growing district in Burgundy has a rich and elegant history. The climate is cooler, producing wines with more acidity and less fruity than the Chardonnay grapes grown in warmer climates. Here the steep, rocky slopes to the right and left of the river Serein has a unique terroir which encompasses the wines with intense minerality and great freshness. This is the birthplace of Chablis; often imitated, but never matched.

It is in Chablis where the wines of William Fevre have risen to fame and reputation. The first Domaine wine was produced in 1959 from a minute holding of only seven hectares. With incredible foresight, Fevre began the purchasing of top quality plots in the area and swelled his holdings to 78 hectares, 15.9 of which are Premier Cru, and 15.2 are Grand Cru. It is considered not only one of the largest domains in Chablis but also one that owns a significant proportion of the best climats.

Fevre sold the Domaine to Joseph Henriot in 1988, ushering in a new era. Didier Seguier, who previously worked at Bouchard Pere et Fils, was immediately installed as winemaker and a change in style was implemented. Seguier switched the emphasis on new oak to the use of aged wood in both fermentation and maturation. His intent was to express the qualities of Chablis’ Kimmeridgien soil and its terroir allowing the 100% Chardonnay to develop unique characteristics. The purpose was to express freshness, purity, elegance and minearlity, which is greatly recognized and celebrated today.

This enormous and outstanding Domaine produces around 48,000 cases per year. Nearly half the production is Premier and Grand Cru. The Grand Crus hail from Bougros, Bougros Cote Bouguerots, Le Clos, Le Preuses, Vaudesir, and Valmur. The Premier Cru, respectively have designations in nine prestigious plots as well. Each terroir is incomparable; however, cannot express itself on its own. Didier Seguier has become the artist using all his brushes to help transform this Chablis producer into an iconic Domaine. He has the great ability to extract the best qualities from the individual climats, resulting in superb concentration, minerality, and purity of flavor that can be enjoyed now or cellared for years to come.
Region Burgundy: Situated just west of the beautiful river Saone, the hills and valleys of Burgundy stand as they have stood since medieval times, and you can almost hear the cheerful chatter of vineyard workers from miles away. Indeed, France's identity in the world of wine would be incomplete without the inclusion of Burgundy and its many viticultural achievements. Every little sub-region of the area boasts a unique soil composition, which, when combined with the area's climate conditions, creates an incredibly diverse and appealing selection of fine wines.

Every new bottle is an adventure of its own, and a snapshot of its birthplace. You could spend years sampling great Burgundian wines, and you would still have a lot to learn, which is what makes the region so compelling for veterans and novice wine lovers alike. No matter what your taste in wines may be, there is a winery in Burgundy that could mesmerize your mind and make your senses scream with joy. And what better way to spend a comfy summer afternoon with your friends and family than with a classy bottle from some of the region's most reputable wineries? From the noble slopes of Cote d'Or to the flatlands near various settlements, let us help you on your journey as we explore Burgundy's most delicious and renowned wines.
Subregion Chablis
Climat/Vineyard Les Clos
Cru Grand Cru
Country France: Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.

For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.

France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.

France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.

Type of Wine Burgundy White: No one can express the full potential of Chardonnay quite like the visionaries from Burgundy. With an almost entirely single-minded devotion to the noble varietal in question, they continue to push the boundaries of quality, to the joy of their many fans worldwide. Discover the nuances of every producer and come out changed forever.
Varietal Chardonnay: Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.

The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.

The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.

The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.

Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.

The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.

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