Burgundy Collector Wines

wines

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru les Malconsorts has a touch more fruit on the nose than the Beaux Monts ’13 at this point, the aromatics possessing more volume. The palate is well balanced and very harmonious with lacy tannins that belie that depth of fruit underneath. This has more breeding than the Beaux Monts at this stage and certainly more persistency in the mouth.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 92-94 RP-NM(Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts”- Domaine Dujac) The 2013 Dujac Malconsorts is another beautiful wine in the making, offering up a very red fruity and elegant nose of raspberries, cherries, Vosne spices, duck, coffee, a beautifully complex base of soil and a lovely framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and refined, with a lovely core, stunning transparency, supple tannins and a very long, tangy and laser-like finish. Though the 2013s are putting on weight with further cask aging, it seems likely that the Dujac Malconsorts is destined to be a stellar middleweight at its apogee that seduces with its great aromatic and flavor complexity, coupled to marvelous intensity of flavor, rather than being an opulent wine at its apogee. But, for those willing to look a little deeper, this is going to be a very, very special bottle in a decade or two. (Drink between 2022-2060).John Gilman | 94 JGHealthy dark red. Pure, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, red licorice, flint and cumin. Sexy, silky and superconcentrated, showing a mineral pungency to the red and darker berry and spice flavors. This has near-grand cru volume and weight. Finishes plush and fine-grained, with serious tannins arriving late to provide firm grip. The rising finish leaves behind an exhilarating suggestion of exotic fruits.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée "Les Malconsorts" 1er Cru Red) This is more restrained though here too there is a plethora of spice elements on the ultra-fresh nose dark currant, violet, rose petal and exotic tea scents. The 2013 version of this wine is sleeker than it usually is because while there is clearly good muscle the mouth feel of the medium weight plus flavors is more refined than normal, all wrapped in a powerful, intense, austere and mineral-driven finale. This is, in a word, excellent. (Drink starting 2025).Burghound | 93 BH

(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) This is very deeply colored, in fact so much so that it would make a young port blush! The ripe aromas of red and blue berries, spice and earth display a mentholated top note. The dense, powerful and mouth coating broad-shouldered flavors possess evident muscularity while delivering excellent length on the youthfully austere finale. This isn’t refined, indeed it’s borderline rustic, but it’s a dramatically impressive and very firmly structured wine that should live for decades. (Drink starting 2038)Burghound | 95 BH(Bonnes-Mares- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Bonnes-Mares from Domaine de Comte de Vogüé had not yet been racked, so it was the first wine in the cellar where one could really see the size and shape of the vintage here in a proper perspective. This is going to be a lovely wine, as it delivers a fine aromatic constellation of black plums, black cherries, blueberries, dark soil tones, venison, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with lovely sappiness and mineral undertow, fine-grained tannins and a long, youthful and vibrant finish. This reminds me a bit of the 1993 Bonnes-Mares here, though I am not sure why, as 1993 was a cooler year and 2018 is a solar vintage, but there are some structural similarities and the same sappy, black fruity personality that I find attractive in both vintages. The 2018 Bonnes-Mares will take plenty of time to blossom, but it is superb potential. (Drink between 2035-2085).John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is noticeably deeper in colour than the five other 2018 Bonnes-Mares in this line-up. Here, the dark cherry fruit seems a little cooked with faint tinned prune and raisin notes in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, firm grip, dusky black fruit laced with black pepper, touches of thyme and sage. There is energy here, but similar to other Bonnes-Mares, the tannins seem to just poke out on the brawny and monolithic finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 90 VM

This is perhaps the spiciest wine in the range with a lovely mix of anise, exotic tea and sandalwood on the deeply pitched dark berry fruit aromas that also evidence a hint of volatile acidity. The rich, full-bodied and mouthcoating big-bodied flavors brim with sappy dry extract before concluding in a grippy and mildly rustic finish that still manages to deliver very good length. (Drink starting 2033)Burghound | 90-93 BH

The Grivot family owns 0.84ha of Echézeaux, mainly in Les Cruots. The grapes are entirely destemmed and given a cold soak before gentle fermentation on native yeasts. The wine is pressed and aged in cask (40% new). The result shows impressive elegance yet is in no way lacking fruit, with a lovely, expressive black cherry and pomegranate quality. The texture is delicate, yet there is impressive concentration, and the red fruit and floral notes linger on the finish. Drinking Window: 2027 - 2050Decanter | 96 DECTouches of bitter chocolate and kirsch are present on the spicy aromas of plum, violet and soft wood. The finer if not denser flavors possess a velvety texture while also coating the palate with dry extract on the dusty and chalky finish that is likewise youthfully austere. I very much like the depth and persistence and this beauty should also age gracefully for as long as most anyone would like.Burghound | 93-96 BHThe 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru offers mulberry, sous-bois and very subtle star anis aromas on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite taut and fresh, linear at the moment with touches of blood orange and Clementine towards the finish. Give this several years in bottle.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM