Burgundy Collector Wines

wines

The 2001 De Vogüé Bonnes Mares exhibited uncommon depth and richness in the luxuriousness of its vibrant fruit, with a personality that was delicate yet powerful. Still very much an infant, it was a privilege to catch this gorgeous wine in its youth.Antonio Galloni | 94 AG(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes Mares Grand Cru Red) (opened from personal storage). This has continued its upward development while still maintaining its superb aromatic density with still relatively primary aromas of blueberries, earth and animale notes. There is good power and concentation to the intense yet refined flavors that are underpinned by a firm but ripe tannic spine on the wonderfully long finish. This is developing beautifully and while there are still a few more years of unrealized upside potential in store, this is not so far away that it would be a vinous crime to open a bottle now. In a word, gorgeous. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 93 BHAromatic definition, dark fruits and leathery, earthy accents; the palate composed, focused and long. Approaching drinking window, still with many years ahead. From 2016.James Suckling | 92 JSBlackberries and a myriad of spices are found in the nose of the light to medium-bodied 2001 Bonnes Mares. Satin-textured and broad shouldered on the attack, this wine reveals outstanding depth to its blackberry and blueberry-flavored character. Its dark fruit-laden finish displays a firm, woody tannin-laced characteristic. Drink it over the next 7 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-90 RP

(Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts”- Domaine Dujac) The 2012 Malconsorts from the Seysses family is going to be a very, very lovely example of the vintage, but it is cut from the same cloth as the refined and reserved Gruenchers, and it will need some extended cellaring to really blossom and show all of its layers of complexity. The very classy nose gently emerges from the glass in a refined blend of red plums, black raspberries, cocoa, a touch of nutskin, a beautifully complex base of minerality, woodsmoke, spices and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very, very suave on the attack, with a sappy core of fruit, great backend minerality, fine-grained tannins and outstanding length and grip on the tangy and perfectly balanced finish. This wine is quite tightly-knit today, but there is an inner core of energy that will make this a stunning wine when it has blossomed! (Drink between 2020-2060).John Gilman | 94+ JGStructured, with innate power and depth, firm tannins and great depth of flavours. Drinking Window 2020 - 2028.Decanter | 94 DECBright medium red. Captivating floral lift to the aromas of raspberry, minerals and truffle. Dense, sweet and utterly seamless, communicating a powerful impression of truffley soil tones but also plenty of high-pitched floral and mineral perfume. Boasts bulletproof fruit and yet this wine is perfectly harmonious today. The palate-staining finish leaves the taste buds humming. A brilliant example of its vintage.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts has a sophisticated, mineral-driven bouquet with great clarity, less fruite and more restrained than the Beaux Monts but with greater focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a real candied, bonbon element, a core a sweetness that lends this real personality and wonderful poise on the finish. Lovely.Tasting in the cellars of Domaine Dujac in Morey Saint Denis is always an educational, enlightening experience, granting you a useful picture of how some of the top vineyards performed in the Cote de Nuits during a given year. Alec Seysses was on hand to guide me around his particularly cold cellar, one of those occasions when my warm hands might be bad for pastry, but ideal for warming glasses. “It was the fourth poor year in a row in terms of quantity,” he explained, showing me the concrete eggs now employed at the domaine, a less common sight here in Burgundy compared to Bordeaux. “although in 2012 we had a regular crop of the village crus and the younger vines did well. We averaged around 20 hectoliters per hectare. Everything was racked in early September but there is some reduction from the cold cellar. The softness of the tannins strikes me as a character of the vintage. It is more a dark fruit vintage than a red fruit vintage. Sugars were between 12.5 and 13%, with a few 13.3% here and there. I find the wines similar to 2010, but the 2012 is a little more charming because the tannins are not quite as strong.” Tasting through the complete range of wines from the small batch of negociant wines under “Dujac Fils et Pere” to the clutch of grand crus, it was clear that propitious terroirs that influenced the wines greatly. The village crus were mostly commendable in their own right, but the real excitement begins as you broach the premier crus, where the barrel samples achieve high degrees of complexity and nuance. Like many of the top growers, I was pleased to see individual terroirs articulated with great clarity in 2012, perhaps more so than the 2011s. These barrel samples seemed to contain so much energy: tightly coiled springs of fermented grape juice, brimming with tension and freshness that Jeremy and Alec will endeavor to capture once in bottle. I have little doubt that they will succeed.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94-96 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée "Les Malconsorts" 1er 1er Cru Red) Reduction. This is completely different from the Beaux Monts, particularly in terms of size and weight as there is real muscle to the impressively concentrated and ripe medium-bodied plus flavors that culminate in a hugely long finish that coats the palate with dry extract. The supporting tannins are also markedly firmer and it's clear that this will require around 15 years to completely realize its full, and considerable, potential yet it should be approachable after 10 years or so. In a word, impressive. (Drink starting 2027).Burghound | 92-95 BH

The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé.Vinous Media | 97-99 VM(Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Red) A ripe and super-fresh nose offers up notes of black raspberry, plum liqueur, Asian-style tea and a whiff of incense. The racy, intense and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors retain outstanding delineation as well as an abundance of palate soaking dry extract before delivering stunningly good length where an interesting hint of citrus character in the form of mandarin orange appears. This incredibly powerful effort is both classy and highly complex and like the Bonnes Mares, is a wine that will live for decades. With that said, it’s not so backward and compact to preclude it being approachable after only 10 to 12 years. A knockout by any standard. (Drink starting 2043)Burghound | 97 BHAll the vines that are used to produce this extensive cuvée of Musigny are over 25 years’ old, so it always has good concentration. But in 2018, it’s an especially big, dense, powerful wine with masses of inky colour, assertive one-third new oak, plenty of plush bramble and black cherry fruit, undertones of sweet spices and liquorice and a chalky flourish. Needs time. Drinking Window 2026 - 2033.Decanter | 95 DEC(Musigny “Vieilles Vignes”- Domaine de Comte de Georges de Vogüé) The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes was also in fine form at the time of my visit, as the racking for this cuvée was just starting and there were plenty of untouched casks to choose from for sampling. The wine is very deep and still very primary on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet wafting from the glass in a sappy blend of black cherries, sweet dark berries, dark chocolate, gamebird, woodsmoke, soil and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off excellent mid-palate depth of sappy fruit, with good mineral drive, ripe, seamless and buried tannins, fine focus and grip and a long, focused and classy finish. All this needs is time in the cellar! (Drink between 2038-2085).John Gilman | 95 JG

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru is dark in colour, more so than A.F. Gros’s. Dark berry fruit, pressed rose petals, sous-bois and a touch of Indian ink. This seems to expand in the glass, likewise there is certainly some Brettanomyces evident here. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe, quite saturated tannins, orange zest and hints of marmalade, taut and fresh with real weight and density towards the effervescent finish. There is a palpable sense of grandeur here that I do not find in Gros’s, yet the bottom line is that it depends on what happens to the brett. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMA very dense saturated if slightly evolved crimson colour. A significant weight of brawny fruit. There is muscle in this wine, and maybe some stems too. Wonderful generosity behind. There is the faintest hint of bacterial reduction but the quality and intensity of fruit swarms all over it. Brilliant weight and length. Would have been touching 98 points if completely pristine and is still exceptionally complex. Drink from 2035.Jasper Morris | 95 JMAn appealingly floral-infused combination, and particularly violet and rose petal, exhibits notes of black raspberry, pomegranate and cassis along with plenty of spice elements. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess fine intensity and good minerality, all wrapped in a somewhat grippy finish that doesn’t display the length that it normally does. We’ll see if this harmonizes in time.Burghound | 89-91 BH

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the volume of this Les Pucelles towards the finish, energetic and very persistent in the mouth. This is another electrifying Puligny ‘19 from Leflaive. Closure: Diam 30Vinous Media | 95+ VMThrilling wine. Leflaive owns three parcels in Les Pucelles at the northern tip of Bâtard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet at the center of the vineyard. The mature vines deliver a perfumed, almost exotic fruit character with notes of spice and hazelnut. Still, there is also a bright lemony freshness to the wine and a lovely salty mineral finish that lift it to another plane and will allow it to continue improving for decades. The most compelling of the premiers crus from Leflaive. (Drink between 2021-2040)Decanter | 95 DECFiner boned and less concentrated than the extraordinary Combettes, the 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles offers up aromas of peach, orange zest, white flowers, freshly baked bread and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, saline and chiseled, this might just be a little shy after bottling, but on first encounter, it doesn't dominate Leflaive's range of premiers crus to the extent that it usually does.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPProminent notes of honeysuckle and passion fruit are laced with a variety of spice and citrus elements. There is good richness and an abundance of dry extract to the strikingly refined flavors that possess a gorgeous mouthfeel while delivering flat out superb length on the balanced finale. This is very classy juice that should basically age for as long as anyone would reasonably like. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93-96 BH