(Vosne-Romanée “Malconsorts”- Domaine Dujac) The 2012 Malconsorts from the Seysses family is going to be a very, very lovely example of the vintage, but it is cut from the same cloth as the refined and reserved Gruenchers, and it will need some extended cellaring to really blossom and show all of its layers of complexity. The very classy nose gently emerges from the glass in a refined blend of red plums, black raspberries, cocoa, a touch of nutskin, a beautifully complex base of minerality, woodsmoke, spices and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and very, very suave on the attack, with a sappy core of fruit, great backend minerality, fine-grained tannins and outstanding length and grip on the tangy and perfectly balanced finish. This wine is quite tightly-knit today, but there is an inner core of energy that will make this a stunning wine when it has blossomed! (Drink between 2020-2060).John Gilman | 94+ JGStructured, with innate power and depth, firm tannins and great depth of flavours. Drinking Window 2020 - 2028.Decanter | 94 DECBright medium red. Captivating floral lift to the aromas of raspberry, minerals and truffle. Dense, sweet and utterly seamless, communicating a powerful impression of truffley soil tones but also plenty of high-pitched floral and mineral perfume. Boasts bulletproof fruit and yet this wine is perfectly harmonious today. The palate-staining finish leaves the taste buds humming. A brilliant example of its vintage.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts has a sophisticated, mineral-driven bouquet with great clarity, less fruite and more restrained than the Beaux Monts but with greater focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a real candied, bonbon element, a core a sweetness that lends this real personality and wonderful poise on the finish. Lovely.Tasting in the cellars of Domaine Dujac in Morey Saint Denis is always an educational, enlightening experience, granting you a useful picture of how some of the top vineyards performed in the Cote de Nuits during a given year. Alec Seysses was on hand to guide me around his particularly cold cellar, one of those occasions when my warm hands might be bad for pastry, but ideal for warming glasses. “It was the fourth poor year in a row in terms of quantity,” he explained, showing me the concrete eggs now employed at the domaine, a less common sight here in Burgundy compared to Bordeaux. “although in 2012 we had a regular crop of the village crus and the younger vines did well. We averaged around 20 hectoliters per hectare. Everything was racked in early September but there is some reduction from the cold cellar. The softness of the tannins strikes me as a character of the vintage. It is more a dark fruit vintage than a red fruit vintage. Sugars were between 12.5 and 13%, with a few 13.3% here and there. I find the wines similar to 2010, but the 2012 is a little more charming because the tannins are not quite as strong.” Tasting through the complete range of wines from the small batch of negociant wines under “Dujac Fils et Pere” to the clutch of grand crus, it was clear that propitious terroirs that influenced the wines greatly. The village crus were mostly commendable in their own right, but the real excitement begins as you broach the premier crus, where the barrel samples achieve high degrees of complexity and nuance. Like many of the top growers, I was pleased to see individual terroirs articulated with great clarity in 2012, perhaps more so than the 2011s. These barrel samples seemed to contain so much energy: tightly coiled springs of fermented grape juice, brimming with tension and freshness that Jeremy and Alec will endeavor to capture once in bottle. I have little doubt that they will succeed.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94-96 RP-NM(Domaine Dujac Vosne-Romanée "Les Malconsorts" 1er 1er Cru Red) Reduction. This is completely different from the Beaux Monts, particularly in terms of size and weight as there is real muscle to the impressively concentrated and ripe medium-bodied plus flavors that culminate in a hugely long finish that coats the palate with dry extract. The supporting tannins are also markedly firmer and it's clear that this will require around 15 years to completely realize its full, and considerable, potential yet it should be approachable after 10 years or so. In a word, impressive. (Drink starting 2027).Burghound | 92-95 BH
