California Classics

wines

Bright, deep red-ruby. Wonderfully mellow and complex on the nose, offering everything from fresh dark fruits to chocolate, red licorice, flowers and graphite minerality. Pure liquid silk in the mouth; at once sharply delineated and edge-free thanks to superb harmonious acidity, possessing a wonderfully tight core of juicy fruit. This very dry, classic Howell Mountain Cabernet finishes with serious dusty but sweet tannins and will still improve. Stunning wine. (13% alcohol).Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 1991 Howell Mountain Cabernet is noticeably thicker and more highly extracted than the 1992 and 1993 vintages. It is a huge, rich, powerful wine with great depth, as well as a boat-load of tannin. Do not touch a bottle for at least 5-6 years.Robert Parker | 93 RP(Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon “Howell Mountain”) I have a pretty high tolerance to brettanomyces in wine, and generally can tolerate a small amount in most bottles. That said, the ’91 Dunn Howell Mountain may be just a tad too bretty for its own good, and I am sure that there are plenty of people out there that are less tolerant of this issue and will find this wine less enjoyable than I did. The bouquet is deep and tight, with good complexity in its blend of cassis, black raspberries, medicinal tones, leather, stony soil tones, cedar and a fair bit of brett eventually emerging from the glass. On the palate the wine is fullish, young and shut down, with a good core of fruit, moderate tannins, lovely transparency down to the soil and good length and grip on the long and slightly bretty finish. If you have absolutely no tolerance for brett, knock this score down by several points, but for those that do not mind it too much, this is an impressively complex bottle of cabernet that is only a few years away from really peeking. (Drink between 2015-2040).John Gilman | 92 JGA dense, potent, rich, dark-colored wine, with immense tannins and a rich core of earth and leather-scented Cabernet fruit. Offers hints of mint, rose petal and anise, and at midpalate it gives a glimmer of polish before finishing with a wall of chewy tannins. Patience required.--'81/'91 California Cabernet retrospective. Best from 2003 through 2014.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

As I reported last year, the 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard is a spectacular wine from a vintage that has consistently received unfavorable press (particularly from the Wine Spectator). It seems to me that if the 1993 vintage were taken out of the context of the historical succession of outstanding years in the nineties, and put in the eighties, qualitatively, 1993 would tower over the likes of 1987, 1985, or 1984. The Eisele Vineyard 1993 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the half dozen or so candidates for wine of the vintage. I have tasted it three times out of bottle, once rating it as high as 98, but never less than 96. It is a mind-boggling Cabernet Sauvignon that is remarkably well-balanced for its size and intensity. The color is an opaque purple, and the nose offers up smoky, chocolatey, blackcurrant, licorice, and mineral scents. On the palate, the wine reveals fabulous density, concentration, sweetness of fruit as well as tannin, and a 30-40 second finish. Although there is a high percentage of new oak, this wine has completely soaked it up, a testament to its extract and concentration of fruit. While the wine displays a certain precociousness, unusual for a 1993, there is plenty of tannin lurking in the finish, but it is well-concealed by the wine's exceptional richness. This beauty is destined to age effortlessly for 20-25 years.The Eisele Vineyard has always produced concentrated Cabernet Sauvignons with blackcurrant/cassis personalities intermixed with a mineral component. What the Araujos have been able to achieve is to intensify the fruit character, as well as the wine's purity and definition. That, plus high quality French oak barrels and a natural approach to winemaking has resulted in a succession of extraordinary Cabernets that began in 1991, and shows no signs of abating.Robert Parker | 96 RPRemarkably youthful and vibrant, with spicy currant, plum, black cherry and anise flavors that pick up touches of earth, mocha and cigar box. Enormous complexity, depth and range of flavors. Has hit an ideal drinking plateau now, but could well last another decade. Decant.--1993 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2012. 1,285 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is similar in all respects to the Napa Valley, but somewhat heavier in the mouth, with an aggressive tannic bite, and more length. It possesses mineral-tinged blackberry and cassis fruit, massive body, and extraordinary purity and length. It should not be touched for 12-15 years. It will undoubtedly live through the first half of the next century.Robert Parker | 96 RP(13.0% alcohol): Dark red-ruby. Sauvage nose combines dark berries, licorice, mushroom, compost, mocha and minerals. A wine of superb intensity and energy, even if it lacks the flesh of the best vintages here. Not a particularly sweet style, in part due to the wine’s penetrating acidity. Finishes a bit dry, with big tannins and a lingering leathery quality. This wine struck me as even tighter than the 2004 Howell Mountain bottle I tasted a year ago.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The saturated purple-colored 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard offers an attractive nose of black fruits intermixed with toast, minerals, subtle tar, and wood smoke. Full-bodied, with impressive purity, a multi-layered mid-palate and finish, it is an expressive, pure, powerful, and large-boned wine.Robert Parker | 94 RPSmooth and polished, with detailed flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, spice and light oak, this pedigreed red turns rich and elegant, with a long, complex aftertaste. Best from 2001 through 2008. 2,305 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSDeep ruby color, darker for its age than the '97. Slightly roasted aromas of black fruits, toffee, leather, tobacco, mocha and dark chocolate; exhilarating suggestion of crystallized berries. Lush and velvety in the mouth; already displays wonderful sweetness and layered texture. Very strong back end features chewy, ripe tannins. A very successful '96, showing beautifully today.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 1996 Proprietary Red (a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Malbec, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc) is not a very weighty (14.3% alcohol) offering. It has become more delineated with a year of bottle age, offering up classic creme de cassis, smoked meat, coffee, prune, and toasty new oak scents. Concentrated, with fabulously high extract, sweet tannin, and full body, this wine has an elegant feel on the palate, but is still a blockbuster. Anticipated maturity: now-2025.Robert Parker | 95 RPSaturated dark ruby. Superripe aromas of blackcurrant, minerals, licorice, oak spice and beefsteak tomato; a bit less flamboyant on the nose than the ’97. Firmer and subtler than the ’96 merlot, with superb flavor intensity and a more restrained sweetness. Finishes very long and firmly tannic, but the tannins are sweet and even. These are both great successes for the vintage.Vinous Media | 94 VMFresh aromas of ripe black cherry, currant and berry are enticing, turning rich and complex on the palate, with fine depth, balance and persistence. Impessive for its vitality and purity of flavor. The best of four bottles.--1996 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2011. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

No written review provided. | 94 W&S

The first release from the 20-acre Thorevilos Vineyard (co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman) is the 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Thorevilos, a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. It is a dense, sweet, black currant-flavored effort with hints of scorched earth, cedar, and flowers in the background. Fruit-driven (mostly blue and black fruits), with a Pomerol-like succulence/lushness, it should drink well young, and evolve for 15+ years.Napa Valley’s most gifted vineyard manager, and certainly a must-hire for those looking to develop great vineyards and produce top quality wines, David Abreu continues to fine tune his own estate, producing some of the most prodigious Cabernet Sauvignons in the world.Robert Parker | 92 RP

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is silky, racy and beautifully balanced...Dark, red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, dried flowers and herbs saturate the palate. This is an especially ripe, dense wine from Dunn, and yet all the elements are so well balanced, so integrated. Huge tannins suggest a long life. I admire the interplay of intense fruit and vibrant mountain energy. This is an especially strong showing from the 2002." Drink: 2022-2042.Vinous Media | 97 VMNotably elegant and refined, this shows good density. The core of mixed flavors includes dried currant, savory herb, cedar and mineral. Firm in body and tannins, ending with a cigar box-cedar-tobacco allure.--2002 California Cabernet blind retrospective (May 2012). Drink now through 2018. 4,600 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Solidly in the Hillside Select model, this vigorous young Cab is dramatically ripe and powerful. The flavors of red and black currants, milk chocolate, figs and smoky vanilla erupt in the mouth, making the tastebuds jump with joy. However, there is also the structure, among the greatest in California Cabs. The acidity is fine, but the tannins are stupendously rich, sweet and complex, practically a food group in themselves. Stunning and gorgeous now in its youth, this collectible wine will reward at least through 2015.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WE...The 2003 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select has a dense, purple color, notes of creosote, graphite, blackberry and cassis fruit, charcoal and scorched earth. It has a full-bodied mouthfeel and excellent purity, while some rather noticeable tannins kick in on the finish... it’s outrageously good Cabernet Sauvignon, and I expect myself, as well as any of my readers, would drink this 24/7.Robert Parker | 95 RP(bottled in the spring of 2006) Medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, currant, cocoa powder, cedar, graphite, violet, licorice and sweet oak. Lush and very sweet but with lively mint and naphtha notes lifting the flavors of black cherry, dark berries and dark chocolate. Finishes with a firm edge of tannins and acids and yet this wine should give early pleasure. I find a wider range of ripeness here than in the supernal 2002.Vinous Media | 93 VMElias Fernandez produces a powerful, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the hillside blocks John Shafer planted in the 1970s. The 2003 vintage is about as potent as they come, its austere, mineral structure managing to hold all the richness of tannin and crushed berry fruit. Layers of flavor begin to take shape with air, from chocolate cake to blackberries and a hint of strawberry-a complex impression that lasts. Hillside Select will reward cellaring for ten years or more.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&SBig and expressive, with intense notes of dark berry fruit, cedar, crushed rock and loamy earth, gaining depth, velocity and texture. Impressive on the finish, where the flavors taper and weave into the tannins. Best to drink this soon.—2003 California Cabernet blind retrospective (July 2013). Drink now through 2024. 2,400 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBlack raspberries, creamy new oak, liquorice and cherry compote meld in an expressive bouquet, introducing a ripe, open-knit and flamboyant palate. While a large-scaled, full-bodied wine, this ranks as a comparative middleweight in the context of Hillside Select. Drinking Window 2017 - 2020.Decanter | 92 DEC

This shows so much dark fruit, spice, berry and minerals incense. Full body, with lots of black pepper, spice and berry. It’s so dense and beautiful. The purity of fruit is all there. Hard not to drink now. But will improve for many years ahead.James Suckling | 97 JSBright, saturated medium ruby. Youthful but already highly expressive high-pitched perfume of blackberry, violet, licorice, crushed rock and honeysuckle. Savory, sappy, thick and fine-grained, delivering uncommon depth of texture and a strong umami character to its sweet/salty dark fruit and meat flavors. This wine stands out for its restraint today but it’s much easier to taste than it was shortly after being bottled, and there’s still a lot to come. Finishes classically dry and very long, with wonderfully suave, integrated tannins and mouthfilling perfume.Vinous Media | 96 VMI could have sworn the 2009 IX Estate Syrah had some Viognier in it, but all of these wines are 100% Syrah. Flowery, peppery, blackberry and bacon aromas reminiscent of a Cote Rotie jump from the glass. However, once in the mouth, the masculinity, power, awesome richness and incredible texture come forward. This killer Syrah should drink well for 20 or more years.Robert Parker | 95 RPA brilliant expression of dense, rich layers of spice, beef, wild berry, savory and herbal notes, offering intensity, focus, grace and finesse. Should evolve beautifully over the next decade or two. Drink now through 2030. 420 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The sucrosity and richness of the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate are prodigious. This dense purple-colored offering from the famous Rutherford AVA exhibits copious red and black fruits (especially blackberries and dark jammy cherries), an intense mouthfeel and full body, but no heaviness or astringency. There is plenty of structure, the wood is pushed to the background, and the finish lasts 40-45 seconds. This beauty is one of Staglin’s finest wines to date. It should provide plenty of pleasure over the next two decades.Robert Parker | 97 RPSaturated bright ruby to the rim. Musky, complex nose combines cassis, mocha, minerals, graphite and Rutherford dust, all lifted by a subtle floral nuance. Suave, rich and seamless in the mouth, showing surprising lift to its red and black fruit, spice, cocoa powder and mineral flavors. Lovely harmonious acidity gives this wine a light touch and carries the fruit through a suavely tannic, palate-staining, vibrant finish. I found this dense but delineated wine drinkable virtually from the outset owing to its noble tannins but it is evolving slowly and should still give great pleasure for another decade or more. Long on personality, and an outstanding example of its vintage.Vinous Media | 94 VMAromas of walnut, dark berries and blueberries. Some mint. Full body with silky, refined tannins and an orange-peel, berry and Thai-mint aftertaste. Better in a year or two but beautiful now.James Suckling | 94 JSA bold, rich and plush style, marked by finesse, with expansive dark berry, cedar, green olive and savory herb notes. For all the richness and depth on display, this wine’s strengths lie in its smaller details. Drink now through 2025. 1,800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WSToasty black-fruits and eucalyptus aromas - imposing and forthright. The palate is voluptuous and dense, but with polished tannins and appealing sucrosity without over-maturity.Decanter | 91 DEC

Both 2013 Cabernet Sauvignons are in bottle, and both are absolutely magnificent wines, probably the two finest Cabernets made by the Staglins to date. Even better than the Estate, or at least marginally so, is the astonishing 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Booth Bella Oaks. This is another Rutherford vineyard that was made famous by Joe Heitz when he used to produce wine from it, and the Staglins have produced, to my mind, the best wine I have ever tasted from this historic site. A wine of incredible depth, with an opaque purple color and an extraordinary nose of mulberry, crème de cassis, licorice, and loamy soil undertones, the wine has full-bodied impact on the palate, remarkable purity, density and overall balance. The finish goes on for a good 50+ seconds. It is a fabulous effort to drink now or cellar for another three-plus decades.Robert Parker | 98 RPStaglin’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Booth-Bella Oaks Vineyard is silky, polished and totally radiant, all qualities that should allow it to drink well with minimal cellaring. Pomegranate, sweet red cherries, plums, spices and rose petals meld into the succulent, layered finish. This is a gorgeous, open-knit Cabernet Sauvignon from Staglin.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Along with the 2015, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is one of the greatest wines made at this property. Deep, powerful, layered, and incredibly concentrated, it has the classic bluer fruits of this estate as well as notes of graphite, chocolate, spring flowers, and bouquet garni. Opening up with time in the glass, it’s a rich, thrilling wine in just about every sense. Give bottles another 3-4 years and it’s going to have 2-3 decades of overall longevity.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDBoth 2013 Cabernet Sauvignons are in bottle, and both are absolutely magnificent wines, probably the two finest Cabernets made by the Staglins to date. The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford (14.9% alcohol) has a stunning fragrance of lead pencil shavings, spring flowers (or is it violets?), sweet blackcurrant and black raspberry fruit, and a layered, opulent, rich and full-bodied mouthfeel. Add to that striking purity, equilibrium, and serious but finely grained tannins, and this is their finest Rutherford Estate Cabernet Sauvignon made to date. It has at least 30-40 years of life ahead of it.Robert Parker | 97+ RPThe 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon is still very young. Dark, powerful and quite brooding in bearing, the 2013 possesses notable depth and textural intensity. Blue/black fruit, gravel, scorched earth and grilled herbs add to a feeling of somber intensity. In this vintage, there is less Cabernet Sauvignon and more Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the result of higher percentages of those varieties in some of the co-fermented lots. Overall, the 2013 feels a bit compact today.Vinous Media | 94 VMA ripe and generous red with ripe berry, smoky meat and leather. Full-bodied, round and velvety. Extremely rich style for 2013. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JS

One of my favorite first-growth sites of Napa Valley is the Dr. Crane Vineyard on the back streets of St. Helena, and Myriad produces two cuvées: a 225-case Dr. Crane Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and the Dr. Crane Vineyard Elysian, which is a barrel selection based on the best barrels Mike Smith can find from Darnajou and Taransaud cooperage. The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr Crane Vineyard, 15.1% alcohol, is from clone 337 and is a wine of great power and richness with complex blueberry and blackberry, charcoal and graphite notes, stunning minerality, beautiful purity, velvety tannins and a killer finish of close to 50+ seconds. This wine is drinkable because it is a 2014, but it should age nicely for two decades or more.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPI loved the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard and it offers sensational purity and elegance in its crème de cassis, lead pencil, graphite and smoked earth aromas and flavors. One of the deeper, richer and more concentrated wines in the lineup, yet still with the telltale 2014 suppleness and elegance, this full-bodied beauty has polished tannin, no hard edges and is pure class all the way. As with all the 2014s from Mike, it already offers pleasure today, yet will cruise in the cellar on it balance, purity and freshness.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDBlackberry and fresh mushroom aromas. Fresh spices to boot. Full-bodied, layered and dense. A little old school but shows a firmness and form to it. Give this two or three years.James Suckling | 95 JSExhibits the chewy edginess of a young wine, with tannins out front of a rich core of gravel and licorice notes, laced with blackberry and currant accents. The finish is strong, long and structured, reverberating with the core flavors. Drink now through 2034. 200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSMyriad’s 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane is powerful, dense and sweet, with plenty of the fruit intensity that is typical of this site. Red cherry and raspberry jam, sweet spices, mint and spice notes all develop nicely. Succulent and juicy, the 2014 will drink well with minimal cellaring.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Mount Eden’s 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon represents the essence of what Cabernet Sauvignon is all about in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Deep, powerful and explosive, the 2016 simply has it all. A wine of tremendous depth and intensity. Readers, take note. This is world class Cabernet Sauvignon that in any other region would cost 2-3 times as much. Savory and expansive, with tons of mountain character and remarkable richness from low yields in 2016, the Cabernet Sauvignon is simply off the charts. It’s another utterly breathtaking wine from Mount Eden.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is blended with 12% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. The nose offers pure cassis finely layered with Chinese five spice, dried rose petals, graphite and pipe tobacco with a wild, game-like undercurrent. The palate is seamless, opening to an array of detailed fruits and spices, with a silt-like structure and expansive juicy uplift. It's a wonderfully balanced Cabernet that offers immediate appeal plus everything it needs for a long life in the cellar. 1,582 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe combination of high-elevation vineyards, oceanic influence and surrounding coniferous forest give Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet a singular profile, and few show it off as well as Mount Eden. Aged 22 months in 50% new oak, a mixture of French and American. Contains 12% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. American wood instils notes of candied orange rind and coconut flakes into an otherwise gravel-driven nose. The palate has a graceful, buoyant quality that gently floats across the palate. The finish is very dry and wound up like a spring, which will continue to be the case for the next several years. This is a wine to slowly let unfurl, both when ageing and consuming; open several hours in advance. Drinking Window 2024 - 2054.Decanter | 96 DECt’s rare to find joyous Cabernet: This is a wine with bounce to its black raspberry and red currant fruit, as if that succulent fruit were rising directly out of the warm, earthy tannins. Jeffrey Patterson grew this at his historic vineyard, where Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (22%) and Franc are rooted in shale soils 15 miles from the Pacific and 2,000 feet above it, the vine selections tracing their lineage directly back to 19th-century Bordeaux. The 2016 is compressed as a young wine, needing four days after the bottle is first opened to fully show itself, when it will turn your head with its lovely weight of sumptuous fruit. (JG) Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SDried dark fruit, toasted cedar, shaved cocoa and sappy redwood tones make for a very dry expression on the nose of this classic bottling. Those elements meet with dense and dry blackberry and black plum on the sip, where dried herbs, black-pepper and soy flavors also arise. The elegant structure is such that this wine just doesn't die, even after more than a week of sitting open. Drink 2022–2046.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThis shows a zesty mix of sage and grilled savory notes, backed by a sleek black currant, plum and black cherry core. The singed alder and mesquite frame shows on the finish, which is tightly focused and youthfully closed for now, with just a bolt of iron showing. When this rounds into form, it will be a winner. Best from 2023 through 2036. 1,259 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

This is the debut vintage of this wine from the esteemed Bordeaux owner, Alfred Tesseron, who bought the property in the Napa mountains in 2016. Aromas of plums, wet earth, fresh herbs and tobacco. Some green olives. Turns to blueberries and blackberries. Full-bodied, yet reserved and layered with chocolate, walnuts and plums. Firm yet polished tannins give a framed sense to the wine. Savory. Racy and beautifully structured, it’s extremely drinkable already. Real wine.James Suckling | 98 JSA blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, the 2016 Pym-Rae displays a deep garnet-purple color and reveals wonderfully fragrant notes of candied violets, wilted roses, damp soil and black tea over a core of red and black currants, black cherries and warm blackberries plus touches of cigar box and camphor. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is evocatively singular, offering that rock-solid structure of mountain fruit, yet these are wonderfully ripe, silt-like tannins that beautifully support the elegant red and black fruit layers, finishing very long and very perfumed.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP(Tesseron Estate Pym-Rae) The 2016 Pym-Rae continues to show well, with a rich, meaty, powerful style as well as loads of chocolaty black fruits, tobacco, black olive tapenade, and leather-like aromas and flavors. It’s beautiful on the palate, with massive concentration and depth as well as terrific balance. This gorgeous, deep, opulent beauty is going to benefit from another 4-6 years of bottle age and live for 3-4 decades. (Drink between 2025-2067)Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD