California Classics

wines

Two of the most impressive wines in these tastings, both of Dunn’s 1986s tasted like 3-4-year old Cabernets rather than 10-year old adolescents. The opaque purple-colored 1986 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain offers awesome richness, mindboggling intensity, huge tannin, a massive mouthfeel, and a closed yet formidably long, well-endowed finish. This wine could be put in a tasting of 1994 California Cabernets and not stand out as a 10-year old wine. Give it another 5-7 years of cellaring and drink it over the subsequent 25-30 years ... amazing!Robert Parker | 95 RPFull medium red with a faint hint of amber. Aromas of dark cherry, menthol and mint show a slightly medicinal cough medicine quality; very Médoc in style. Then surprisingly supple and fine-grained, offering terrific inner-mouth energy and acidity to shape and freshen its intense dark raspberry and menthol flavors. This wine is fully mature but still full of life, displaying plenty of tobacco and savory spices but also superb remaining fruit and floral lift. For a bone-dry wine, it delivers captivating fruit sweetness that perfectly supports its firm tannins. An excellent showing--and not as dry as the ’83 or ’84. (13% alcohol)Vinous Media | 92 VM

This is my favourite of the famous Colgin reds in this vintage. It’s incredibly aromatic and perfumed, full- bodied and harmonious. Loads of violet and lavender character. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 98 JSDeep red-ruby. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, mocha and cracked pepper. Incredibly vivid and high-pitched on the palate, with the vibrant dark berry flavors complicated by orange peel, espresso and pungent minerality. Conveys an impression of great density without weight. Best today on the inexorable, slowly mounting finish, which finishes with substantial but utterly refined tannins and great lift and length. Stunning already but it would be a shame not to allow this beauty to express itself more fully, as it has the size, balance and acidity to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle. I underrated this wine in the early going.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is virtually all Cabernet Sauvignon except for tiny dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It offers up gorgeous aromas of lavender, creme de cassis, violets, toast, incense and camphor. Layered, full-bodied and rich with great purity, focus and symmetry, this stunning effort from one of the tenderloin corridors of Napa Valley can be drunk early on or cellared for another 25-30 years.There are a lot of magnificent estates with Shangri-La-like beauty spread throughout California, and the Colgin property is in the top ten list for spectacular views as well as top quality. Sitting atop Pritchard Hill with stunning views of Lake Hennessey and the surrounding mountains, their IX Estate Vineyard is on a steep, intimidating hillside. It is one of the must-see attractions in Northern California, if not the entire state. The longstanding winemaking team of Ann Colgin, Allison Tauziet and Bordeaux consultant Dr. Alain Raynaud has produced some magnificent wines over the years (the 2001s, 2002s, 2005s, 2007s and 2008s) as well as amazing efforts in 2009, 2010 and 2012. There are three Bordeaux blend offerings, one from their Tychson Hill estate vineyard off Highway 29, north of St. Helena, and the second, the IX Estate blend. The Cariad is fashioned from a blend of grapes purchased from a number of David Abreu-s well-known and highly respected vineyards. There is also a fourth wine, the IX Estate Syrah, which is often a dead-ringer for a great Northern Rhone. In 2010, March and early April were very cold, but normal conditions persisted over the summer with no heat spikes, and September and October were ideally warm. The results include some spectacular wines that are among the finest I have ever tasted from Colgin. The 2011s were the result of a Draconian-like sorting procedure in both the vineyard and the winery, and significant bleeding of the tanks to concentrate the wines. The wines have turned out well, although as I might expect they are lighter and less significant than the other vintages reviewed. 2012 promises to be a spectacular vintage. This was a big as well as ripe crop (without over-ripeness), and the growing conditions were nearly ideal. In the past, I have underrated Colgin-s Syrahs only to have them in blind tastings later and be blown away by just how profound they are. They are completely different from any other California Syrahs and have an affinity to some of the great 100% single vineyard Syrahs from Michel Chapoutier and the up-and-coming firm of Delas.Robert Parker | 96 RPVery firm and tannic, yet with a pleasingly dense and richly flavored core of dark berry, mineral, graphite and licorice. Unfolds slowly, ending with a dash of espresso and mocha. Needs time. Best from 2015 through 2025. 370 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Bright full ruby. Very dark nose combines black fruits, violet, graphite and river rock, plus subtle hints of molasses, tobacco and leather; less relentlessly primary than more recent vintages, but then 2010 widely produced explosive, complex, soil-driven aromas. This wine, too, shows a slightly liqueur-like quality yet seems less evolved than the Roberta’s. Stunningly silky yet penetrating too, with its dark fruit, mineral and floral flavors conveying terrific vinosity and cut. A firm tannic spine gives this savory wine terrific grip on the palate-staining back end. A distinctly European style in the context of Napa Valley, with its outstanding flavor complexity aided by alcohol below 14%. (100% new French oak).Vinous Media | 98 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is a 275-case blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot. It reveals intense red and black currant fruit, good acidity, hints of camphor and graphite, superb purity, a full-bodied texture and an extremely youthful (almost like a barrel sample) freshness and focus. This is a remarkably young yet promising, full throttle, beautifully made Cabernet Sauvignon that should be cellared for 5-7 years and drunk over the following two to three decades.Robert Parker | 96 RPA classy, Bordeaux-like red from Napa, with ripe, rich fruit and tiers of currant, spice, cigar box and tobacco leaf. Well-built, showing a measure of restraint, this delivers fine-grained tannins and a long, tapered finish. Best from 2014 through 2026. 275 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Bright, deep ruby-red. Slightly high-toned scents of raspberry, coffee, milk chocolate and rose petal, plus some Old World hints of meat and earth. Utterly fine-grained and seamless on entry, with perfectly integrated acidity and a floral element giving clarity and lift to the red fruit, spice and mineral flavors. A first sample of this wine showed some porty high tones but this one is refined and pure, rich but not a bit heavy. In fact, it’s wonderfully delineated, aromatic and fresh in the style of a top Pomerol. Finishes with firm, dusty, nicely buffered tannins, terrific thrust and sneaky rising floral perfume. This wonderfully elegant, pure, broad wine comes across as less wild than the Le Désir and La Joie bottlings. It should continue to evolve gracefully on its balance and palate-saturating breadth. Wow! Held up beautifully with aeration.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2010 La Muse (14.4% alcohol) is a blend of 84% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the more soft, opulent, precocious wines I have tasted from this estate, it exhibits abundant notes of spicy oak, plum, Asian soy, new saddle leather, barrique, black cherries and black currants. Round and generous with considerable fat and succulence, it can be drunk in 2-3 years or cellared for 15-20.Robert Parker | 94 RPRipe and mature-tasting, with decadent cooking spice notes to the brooding dark currant and dried berry flavors. Green olive details show on the viscous finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 1,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Amazing aromas of blackberries, blueberries, mushrooms and violets. Full body with a dense, precise palate and a firm, intense finish. Masculine but formed and polished. This needs at least four or five years to come even more together.James Suckling | 97 JS(picked on November 1): Red-ruby color, the darkest of these 2011s. Dark berries, coffee and licorice on the nose, with a sexy animal character adding interest. Less sweet than the Lotus but with noteworthy finesse of texture to the flavors of blue fruits, menthol and dark spices. Very pure and laid-back today, finishing with sneaky length. The tannins seem much more successfully integrated with the wine’s fruit than they appeared to be in barrel a year ago. Winemaker Cameron Vawter noted that the 2011s were racked only after the malolactic fermentations and again for the blending.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard, which comes from a site on Howell Mountain, is still youthful, with a dense plum color as well as a powerful, masculine nose of blackcurrants, chocolate, graphite, and scorched earth. It stays tight, compact, and structured on the palate, with lots of tannins, and it remains to be seen if there’s enough fruit to handle all the structure. At the end of the day, I think it does. Give bottles another 3-4 years and it should keep for another decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDThe fruit for the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard was picked on November 2, and it is certainly one of the stars of the vintage, reflecting the success Howell Mountain enjoyed in this vintage. It possesses excellent ripeness along with mulberry, blueberry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with hints of wet rock and graphite. Ripe, lush and medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin, this beauty, because of the precociousness and forward character of the 2011s, is best consumed over the next 10-12 years.Proprietor Hi Sang Lee has resurrected this once historic estate in Rutherford where the winery was first constructed in 1883 by H. W. Helms. There are four cuvees as of 2010, the Crystal Springs Vineyard on Howell Mountain, the Helms Vineyard in Rutherford, the Hershey Vineyard on Howell Mountain and the Lotus Vineyard in Napa Valley. They also produce a wine called Onda, which is meant to be a more forward styled, lower priced effort. Kudos to Hi Sang Lee and his son for resurrecting this historic estate.Robert Parker | 90-92 RPA rich, powerful expression of dense loamy earth, tobacco, black licorice, mineral and dark berry flavors. This never lets up, framed by persistent, gutsy tannins. Drink now through 2022. 304 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(blended with 7% cabernet franc): Enticing nose melds redcurrant, cherry, anise, milk chocolate and a floral element. Suave, sweet and graceful, showing a lovely sugar/acid balance to the red fruit, mineral and sexy oak flavors. Boasts sneaky flavor intensity and subtle length, finishing with smoother tannins than the Helms. A very successful, refined 2011 cabernet.Vinous Media | 92 VMFairly massive, with deep, rich fruit and ample tannins. The core flavors are centered on currant, plum and blackberry. Cedary oak and crushed rock loaminess are evident on the chewy finish. Best from 2016 through 2025. 308 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Seemingly just entering maturity, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill boasts stunning fresh, vital notes of redcurrants and raspberries, accented by intricate details of dried sage and bay leaf. It’s amazingly silky and supple, a charming, softly tannic effort that somehow combines intense levels of concentration with almost indescribable harmony and finesse.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPA solid and powerful cabernet with age with chewy tannins and a dark berry and walnut character. Chewy texture and lightly austere. Very dry but enticing. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill is rich and explosive, with tons of concentration, depth and structure. Dark blue and black fruit, mocha, smoke, menthol, licorice and spices all burst from the glass as this huge, tannic Cabernet Sauvignon shows off its pure class. Readers will have to be patient with the 2012, a wine that will blow the roof off the house with its unbridled power.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Extraordinary aromas of metal shavings, black currants and hazelnuts. Turns to roses and violets. Full-bodied, yet subtle and refined with a polished piercing tannin backbone. This makes you want to drink it. Sexy and elegant. A triumph. Try in 2019 but hard not to drink now. September release.James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Rutherford AVA, has a dense black cherry and blackcurrant-scented nose with graphite and forest floor notes, beautiful purity, full-bodied mouthfeel and super-richness and power, but elegant and complex. This is classic Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon and should age beautifully for 20-25 years.Robert Parker | 96 RPDana’s 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard possesses remarkable structure and density, especially within the context of the year. Firm yet well-integrated tannins give the wine much of its energy, tension and focus. Black cherry jam, graphite, smoke and tobacco add nuance as the wine opens up in the glass. Far from an easygoing 2012, the Helms is going to need time to fully come together. There is so much to look forward to here. This is the first vintage since 2008 that was vinified in wood uprights, as was originally intended. The intervening vintages have been much shorter, so they were done in barrel. The 2012 impresses for its balance of fruit, acidity and tannin.Vinous Media | 96 VMDense and pleasantly earthy, with an edge of loamy earth and crushed rock minerality cutting through the core of currant, blackberry and mocha before the dense, earthy tannins fold in. The finish is long and engaging. Drink now through 2030. 284 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard comes from an 1,800-foot elevation and is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon harvested October 19-22. This is a sensational superstar from Howell Mountain with an inky purple color, notes of mocha, mulberry, crème de cassis, graphite and spring flowers. It is dense, full-bodied, opulent and concentrated with sweet but moderate tannin. This is a stunner that should drink well for another 25 or so years.Robert Parker | 98 RPThe 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Hershey Vineyard has developed into a round, sumptuous Howell Mountain wine with the soft contours and exceptional overall balance. Iron, sweet red cherry, plum, smoke and licorice meld together in an open-knit yet structured Cabernet Sauvignon with tons of sheer appeal. The exotic, savory/mineral bouquet is pure Howell, but there is also a softness to the 2012 that makes it incredibly appealing, even today. A final kick of Howell Mountain tannin lingers on the close. As always, the Hershey is the most vivid and structured of the Dana Cabernets.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is so tight, linear and balanced with superb focus and precision in the mouth. Harmony in the bottle. Full-bodied, yet reserved and poised with truffle and blackcurrant aromas and flavors. Super tight.James Suckling | 98 JSA blockbuster, showing torque and drive, this is dense and chewy, with massive, extracted, earth- and cedar-laced dark berry, graphite and oak elements, complemented by potent tannins. Needs time. Drink now through 2030. 312 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The perfect 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is 99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot aged 20 months in 100% new French oak. I think this is the third perfect score I’ve given to this wine, which is the essence of their vineyard, representing about 13% of the total production, or a mere 320 cases. The wine has a gorgeously opaque purple color and a beautiful nose of camphor, charcoal, blackberry and crme de cassis with licorice and truffle. It has unbelievable richness, great texture, tremendous finesse, precision and delineation. Very intense, full-bodied and super-pure, the length of the wine must be at least 50+ seconds. This is a gorgeous wine and one of the great superstars of this fabulous vintage. Drink it over the next 25-30 years.Robert Parker | 100 RPSaturated dark red with ruby highlights. Wonderfully complex perfume combines black raspberry, blueberry, subtle torrefaction notes and a hint of black olive. Boasts outstanding thickness of texture without any heaviness, with its dark fruit and mineral flavors complicated by subtle spices. Perhaps most impressive today on the back end, which features an explosive, sappy flavor of tart cherry stomp and spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate. Of course there are tannins here, but that word did not appear in my original tasting note as they are totally buffered by the wine’s extract-rich fruit. (14.1% alcohol; 100% new French oak).Vinous Media | 98 VMViolet, lavender, rosemary, and stone undertones. Full body, super polished and beautiful fruit. Very long and linear. Volcanic salt. Wonderful length and balance. Goes on for minutes. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 97 JSPure and focused on earth- and herb-laced sweet currant and tarry notes, this flexes some tannic muscle and features a strong, persistent, complex and layered finish. Very Bordeaux-like in structure and flavor profile. Drink now through 2029. 250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

The 2013 Cappella is dense, young and full of energy. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather and licorice are front and center. Still young and vibrant, the 2013 is seriously impressive. It can be enjoyed now, but another few years in bottle will help soften the tannins further. What a stellar wine it is. The 2013 is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 6% Merlot. At this stage, this is the most approachable 2013 in the range.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe Cappella, which usually has at least 35-30% Cabernet Franc in it, looks absolutely fabulous now that the 2013 Cappella is finally in bottle. They only made about 206 cases of it, so it’s a small cuvée from this vineyard on the back streets of St. Helena. It displays sweet espresso notes, loads of white chocolate, blackberry, Asian spice and incense. It is full-bodied and opulent, with the tannins surprisingly silky and well-disguised, which is somewhat unusual in this vintage of extraordinary power and density. This is a 35- to 50-year wine.Robert Parker | 96 RPThis has the broad-shouldered persona of the vintage, but its muscular physique is deftly cloaked in velvety structure, with loam, warmed cassis, alder, steeped plum and sweet tobacco notes that are seamlessly layered. The long finish shows latent drive as a graphite underpinning plays its role, giving the fruit the support for a lengthy encore. There’s plenty of life ahead for this too. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Blind 2013 California Cabernet retrospective (February 2023). Drink now through 2040. 239 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS

Another black/purple wine is the Cliff Lede 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard. Flirting with perfection, this wine boasts blueberry and blackberry notes, spring flowers a hint of charcoal and subtle toast, a full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning concentration. It’s the hallmark of purity and the multi-dimensional texture and length that make for a profound Cabernet Sauvignon that’s accessible. It promises to hit its peak in 8-10 years and last 30 or more.Robert Parker | 99 RPLede’s 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is a classic wine from this famous Oakville site. Inky and deep - with tons of dark blue and purplish fruit, the To Kalon exudes density and unctuousness. The To Kalon is gorgeous, but it is not a wine for the timid. A great example of the more forward, voluptuous side of Napa Valley Cabernet, Lede’s 2013 To Kalon hits all the right spots. Today, the aromatics are a bit closed. Otherwise, the To-Kalon is terrific.Vinous Media | 95 VMA powerful and structured red with firm yet polished tannins that are always present. But there is a richness and intensity of fruit as well. Needs time to soften though clearly outstanding. Better in 2020.James Suckling | 95 JS

This is an extraordinary wine with blackberries, blackcurrants and minerals. Full body and powerful tannins that melt into the fruit. I am in awe here. Drink after 2022.James Suckling | 99 JSStarting with the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain District, which comes from a warmer, mountain terroir in the northern part of the valley, this full-bodied, rounded, incredibly textured effort boasts loads of black fruits, savory herbs, eucalyptus, and scorched earth. It has nicely integrated acidity, a deep, multi-dimensional mouthfeel, incredible elegance, and perfect balance, all making for a truly brilliant Mountain Cabernet that will keep for 2-3 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple colored, it comes sashaying out of the glass with notes of fragrant earth, exotic spices, black pepper and truffles over a core of cassis, black cherry compote and wild blueberries with touches of violets. Full-bodied, rich, sexy and simply delicious, it fills the mouth with bold, layered black fruit supported by incredible tension and wonderfully ripe tannins, finishing long. 675 cases produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain) is fabulous. Dark, powerful and explosive, the 2016 is endowed with terrific energy to play off its strong mineral and savory signatures. Crushed rocks, gravel, grilled herbs, smoke, cured meats and lavender are finely drawn in this imposing, impeccably balanced, Diamond Mountain Cabernet. This is a remarkably vivid, poised Cabernet Sauvignon from Lokoya and winemaker Chris Carpenter. The Diamond Mountain Cabernet is sourced entirely from Wallis, which the Jackson family bought a few years ago.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis is full of vibrant cassis, blackberry and plum fruit notes, all driven by intense, briar, anise and apple wood accents. Features notable grip, with the vibrant acidity to match, and is built for the long haul. A serious mountain Cabernet. Best from 2024 through 2040. 675 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS