California Classics

wines

This is fresh and tangy, with sanguine, savory and iron notes leading gently mulled red and black currant fruit along. A savory edge sparkles through the finish, which shows a pleasantly dusty edge. Very pretty. -- Non-blind Groth Cabernet vertical (August 2024). Drink now through 2030.Wine Spectator | 93 WSThe 1987 Groth, at 37 years of age, is quite polished. The vines were coming of age, about 15 years old in 1987. It still displays good fruit notes—blackcurrants, dried blackberry fruits, dried apricots, and cherry—along with an elegance of savoury spices leading with tobacco, worn cedarwood, and chanterelles. Medium to full-bodied, with round and silky tannins that are beautifully integrated, the wine is succulent, voluminous, and juicy with plenty of length, tension, and energy. The long finish reveals chalky minerals, dried sage, and black olive notes. Nils Venge made the 1987 Groth Cabernet. Sampled during a vertical tasting of Groth wines (1982–2022) in early 2024 with proprietor Dennis Groth and winemaker Ted Henry.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

A wine of great intensity and richness, it displays classic notes of licorice, barbecue smoke, creme de cassis, cedarwood and forest floor. Full-bodied with sensational purity, a multidimensional mouthfeel and a long, voluptuous finish with no hard edges, it has only reached mid-adolescence, and has at least two decades of life ahead of it.Robert Parker | 98 RPDeep ruby-red. Exhilarating, vibrant aromas of cassis, minerals, cocoa powder and brown spices. Juicy, very intensely flavored and sharply delineated; offers lovely restrained sweetness and great finesse. Complex and light on its feet. Finishes bright and fine, with firm tannins and strong dark berry, tobacco and woodsmoke flavors. Remarkably subtle oak. Even better than it showed last winter.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Deep garnet colored, the 2007 Ancient Way Vineyard Summer’s Vineyard sings of preserved plums, Christmas pudding, figs and incense with suggestions of spice cake, licorice and Morello cherries plus a waft of tobacco. Rich, spicy and full-bodied in the mouth, it offers an alluring texture of soft, rounded tannins and just enough freshness, finishing very long and with loads of savory nuances coming through.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPInky purple. Superripe aromas of cassis, cherry preserves and dark chocolate, with complicating notes of licorice and mint. Densely packed and chewy, offering palate-coating black and blue fruit flavors that show serious depth and building sweetness. A hint of smoked meat comes up on the long, clinging finish, which is framed by broad, pliant tannins. I’m not exactly sure what I’d serve with this but it would definitely have to be part of a dead mammal and it would be roasted, braised or grilled.Vinous Media | 93 VMMeaty flavors step forward in this rich, decadent Shiraz, piling savory soy sauce and wet earth nuances around the core of dark, dense blackberry. Shows depth and power. Drink now through 2017. 500 cases made, 500 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

Very deep purple in color, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is still a baby on the nose, sporting extravagant crème de cassis, blueberry pie and spice box notes with hints of dried lavender, aged meat, tilled soil and Sichuan pepper notes with a touch of tobacco. Medium-bodied and firm with fine-grained tannins and wonderful freshness, it gives layer upon layer of black fruit and earth notions, finishing very long. Give it another 4-5 years in bottle and drink it over the next 20+.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPSaturated dark ruby. Less expressive and more medicinal and brooding on the nose than the Roberta’s, offering extremely primary scents of cassis, licorice, bitter chocolate and violet. Then fat, full and strong on the palate, showing the sweetness of the Roberta’s but not that wine’s plushness of texture. Currently dominated by intense black fruits, spices and violet. Finishes with a savory dryness and slightly tough, chewy tannins that still need time to resolve. This wine strikes me as being in a rather clenched phase of its evolution, but it has the mid-palate extract to support its serious tannic load. (14.4% alcohol; 98% new French and 2% new Hungarian oak)Vinous Media | 95+ VMThis is a very dense and layered wine with blackberry, stone and currant character. Full body, chewy tannins and angular tannins. Holding on beautifully.James Suckling | 93 JS

Phenomenal aromas and flavors of pure fruit with stones and rock. Turns to mint and eucalyptus. Full body, with powerful yet polished tannins. Creamy and fresh. Changes continually. The finish goes on for minutes Savory. And juicy.James Suckling | 99 JSComposed of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, the 2009 IX Estate exhibits a flowery bouquet with notes of subtle smoke, blackberries, black currants, kirsch and baking spices. Rich, deep and full-bodied, this voluptuous, sensational blend boasts an inky/purple color. While approachable, it should hit its stride in 4-5 years and last for two to three decades.Robert Parker | 97 RPThe 2009 IX Estate is deep garnet in color. It needs a swirl or two to bring out notes of creme de cassis, chocolate-covered cherries, and blueberry preserves, followed by suggestions of cigar box, graphite, red loam, and tapenade. The palate is rich, full-bodied, and wonderfully bold, with bright, slow-maturing black fruits and firm, ripe grainy tannins, finishing long with saline and gentle herbal layers.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIFull, deep ruby. Deep aromas of dark fruits, spices, smoky oak and flowers, plus a whiff of game. Utterly plush and mouthfilling but not at all heavy, showing serious thickness and high-altitude density to its sweet blue and black fruit, spice and chocolate flavors. And yet this wine’s floral element gives it an almost light touch, if that’s possible. Some subtle soil tones reminded me of the outstanding Syrah from this site on Pritchard Hill. Finishes with substantial but noble tannins and terrific length.Vinous Media | 96 VMA muscle-bound effort, tight, dense and chewy, with tar, blackberry, cedar and tobacco flavors. Ends with a pleasant wall of tannins and a persistent push of flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2014 through 2030. 1,300 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The more closed but potentially greater 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard is a 480-case blend of 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by notes of licorice, creme de cassis, camphor and subtle toast. Full-bodied and concentrated, it represents 15% of the total Kapcsandy production. The wine finished with 13.7% alcohol, which in these days is relatively low, although the alcohol levels were down in 2009 through 2011 because of the cooler, less ripe years.Robert Parker | 95+ RPDeep ruby-red. If the Roberta’s smells like Pomerol, this one is Haut-Brion-like in its wild notes of leather and road tar. Wonderfully thick and sweet but a bit funky too, offering plush flavors of black raspberry, licorice, leather and game. Very densely packed wine with nicely integrated acidity and copious, fully ripe tannins. Really scrapes the palate clean on the rising finish. If there’s any brett here, it’s just another element of complexity, as it does not dominate or dry the wine’s fruit. (13.7% alcohol; 96% French oak--80% new--and 4% new Hungarian oak)Vinous Media | 93 VMA substantial effort that weaves together dense, earthy, clay-laced currant, dark berry, sage and cedar. Slow to unfold, but does so gracefully and gets better with each sip. Best from 2013 through 2028. 480 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2012 Las Posadas Proprietary Red is a massive fruit bomb from that high-elevation vineyard. Forest floor, floral notes, lead pencil shavings, licorice, fruitcake, cedar wood and oodles of black fruits soar from the glass and from the palate of this full-bodied, majestic, multi-layered wine. Like most 2012s, it is really strutting it’s stuff. It is still obviously young, but dramatic and flamboyant. This sensational wine should age effortlessly for 25-30+ years.Robert Parker | 99 RPThe 2012 Las Posadas is marvelous in the way it marries the intensity of this site with the softer, gentler aspect of the year. This makes it a tremendous choice for drinking now and over the next 15-20 years. Blackberry jam, crème de cassis, lavender, dark chocolate and spice all meld together. Deep and sensual to the core, the 2012 is lights out. The aromatics alone are mesmerizing, but everything about the 2012 is just magnificent. This is a big wine, but all the elements are impeccably put together. A recent magnum was superb. Note: This wine was called ’Howell Mountain’ when it was first released.Vinous Media | 98 VMSo much tar with blackberry and blueberry aromas. Perfumed. Black olive. Forest floor. A fabulous Bordeaux blend with complexity and subtlety. Full-bodied yet polished and refined. Incredible length and finish. Wonderful spice. Hard not to drink now. About 300 cases made. March release.James Suckling | 97 JS

Mind-blowing aromas of dark fruits, forest flower, pine needles and Asian mushroom. Black olives too. Full body and very fine tannins, elegant and refined. It goes on for minutes. Breathtaking. Burgundian in uniqueness and texture. Perfect now. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 99 JSAs is the case with most top 2012s, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon from Bryant Family is drinking brilliantly today. This incredible wine will stop anyone who loves Cabernet in their tracks. A dense purple color is followed by gorgeous red, blue, and black fruits, and it has wonderful complexity in its spring flowers, violets, forest floor, and spice-driven aromas and flavors. Showing subtle background oak, full-bodied richness, and sweet tannins, this flawlessly balanced, heavenly Napa Cabernet can be drunk any time over the coming 20-30 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDBryant’s flagship wine, the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon from the estate vineyard on Pritchard Hill offers a rare but magnificent forest floor/floral aromatic profile with lavishly rich, ripe notes of crème de cassis, blueberry and black raspberry liqueur. Fleshy, opulent, full-bodied and multidimensional, it conceals some significant tannins behind its wealth of extract and fruit. From a first-growth quality, hillside vineyard (13 acres), this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is gorgeously pure as well as impeccably well-balanced with a seamless integration of tannin, acidity, alcohol and wood. In fact, the new oak component, which is significant, is largely obliterated by the wine’s stunning fruit. This majestic Cabernet Sauvignon should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.Robert Parker | 98 RPGood dark red with ruby tones. Very ripe aromas of currant, cherry, spices, sage and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, silky wine with a chocolatey aspect to its liqueur-like dark fruit flavors. This plush young Cabernet struck me as remarkably accessible following the '10 and '11 vintages but it will need time in bottle to lose some of its baby fat and gain in nuance. Finishes very long and a touch warm, with a sizable tannic structure to support at least mid-term aging.Vinous Media | 94 VMRustic and pleasantly chewy, this offers a rich, extracted core of dusty currant and blackberry flavors, ending with a stream of gravel, anise, tar and cedar notes. Drink now through 2028. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Poetry reveals a rather inky, bluish/purple color. A blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot and Petit Verdot, this wine is super-youthful and still tastes somewhat like a barrel sample. It’s bursting with upside potential. Inky purple to the rim, with notes of crème de cassis, black cherry liqueur, licorice, spice and a touch of vanilla, this is a full-bodied, concentrated and an utterly profound wine that may represent the greatest wine that Cliff Lede has made to date. Forget it for another 5-6 years and drink it over the following 30 years.Robert Parker | 100 RPA cool and linear red with deep dark fruits such as blueberries and blackberries. Hints of mint and mineral too. Full body, ultra-fine tannins and a long and flavorful finish. Impressive for this vintage. Better in 2019.James Suckling | 94 JSAnother highlight in this range, the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Poetry hits the palate with serious intensity. Juicy, ripe and opulent throughout, the 2013 is super-expressive, but also quite young. Give it a few years to fully come together. This is the most overt of Lede Cabernets. Ripeness is pushed to the edge, while the wine is a bit monolithic, especially next to some of the more complete wines in this range.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Nearly its match is the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Raison d’Etre, a blend of 100% estate fruit consisting of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot. There is more of this to go around the country – 200 cases. There is not much difference in power, massive extract, richness, length and profound aromatics and flavors, as this is just a prodigious wine. Perhaps the dosage of Merlot gives this more chocolate and espresso than the Pièce De Résistance, but it is a stunningly big, thick, juicy wine that somehow maintains balance and delineation. Drink it over the next 35+ years.Robert Parker | 99 RPCrème de cassis, menthol, licorice, lavender and spice notes emerge from the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Raison d’Etre. Inky, powerful and voluptuous, the 2013 captures all the best qualities of the Pahlmeyer style. Even with all of its obvious concentration, the 2013 preserves a good deal of freshness and plenty of mountain tannin. This is a terrific showing.Vinous Media | 95 VM

The perfect 2013 The Bard is a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot, coming from four vineyards that Realm uses consistently -- B Weitz, Houyi, Blair and of course, the Beckstoffer Dr. Crane in St. Helena. There are 950 cases of this extraordinary wine, which has it all. Notes of graphite, blackberries, roasted espresso and chocolate are followed by a wine of enormous, massive extraction, richness and intensity, but no hard edges. This seamless work of vinous haute couture is staggeringly rich, very long, but not the least bit heavy or overbearing. This is a killer effort that’s already showing enormous complexity but should age effortlessly for 15 or more years.Robert Parker | 100 RPFrom one of the greatest vintages ever for Napa Valley, the 2013 The Bard is a similar blend to the 2012 and is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot sourced from a multitude of vineyards. It’s slightly more purple-hued than the 2012 and has a killer bouquet of crème de cassis and blueberry fruits as well as violets, white chocolate, vanilla bean, graphite, and chalky minerality. Insanely good on the palate, this full-bodied, perfectly balanced beauty has a great mid-palate, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won’t quit. It’s one of those wines that delivers incredible intensity yet still glides across the palate with no sensation of weight or heaviness. It’s less evolved than the 2012 and has another two decades or more of prime drinking ahead of it. Hats off to winemaker Benoit Touquette for an incredible, magical wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe 2013 The Bard is the most intriguing of the three Realm blends because it has enough freshness and overall energy to balance the more overt elements. Inky blue and purplish fruit, spices, new leather and savory herbs flesh out in a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend that is both opulent and also vibrant, with plenty of detail and nuance, not to mention enough underlying tannin to drink well for the better part of the next decade, perhaps longer. Most of this fruit emerges from Blair, a site in Calistoga.Vinous Media | 93 VMDelivers a powerful combination of dark berry, dried herb, underbrush and stylish oak. Most impressive are the licorice and blackberry flavors on the finish, revealing extraction, tension and character. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Best from 2020 through 2030. 950 cases made. Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2014 Madrona Ranch Proprietary Red is deep garnet-purple in color and sings of crushed blackcurrants, warm plums and black raspberries with menthol, potpourri, chocolate box and licorice nuances—compelling. The palate is full-bodied, firm and grainy with great freshness, finishing very long with mineral notions. This will be extremely long lived!Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPThe largest scaled of the single vineyards is unquestionably the 2014 Madrona Ranch and this blockbuster comes from a vineyard at the base of Spring Mountain, just outside of St Helena. It boasts a huge nose of blackcurrants, charcoal, dried earth, and chocolate, full-bodied richness, a deep, layered texture, big tannins, and a huge finish. This massive 2014 is up with the crème de la crème of the vintage and will certainly be one of its longest-lived wines as well. Hide bottles for 4-5 years and enjoy over the following two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDLove the blackberries, tar, dark mushrooms and flowers. Perfumed to the max. Full-bodied, super velvety and refined. Glorious. Dense and so long yet vivid. What finesse. You want to take this home. Incredible length and texture. Blend of cabernet sauvignon (56%), cabernet franc (27%), petit verdot (9%) and merlot (8%).James Suckling | 99 JSThe 2014 Madrona Ranch has developed beautifully since I first tasted it from barrel in spring of 2015. Specifically, the tannins have melded into the fruit as the wine has gained body and volume. In 2014, Madrona Ranch is quite dark and powerful. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s more floral red-toned character. A wine of sublime elegance and total finesse, the 2014 Madrona Ranch is a winner. Don’t miss it.Vinous Media | 97 VMIntense, featuring dark fig, blackberry and black currant paste flavors rumbling through, with extra tobacco, bay leaf, bittersweet chocolate and tar notes filling in, this sports obvious heft and muscle. Shows range, cut and drive nonetheless, with a buried graphite spine and sneaky acidity. Just give this a little space in the cellar to round fully into form. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best from 2023 through 2040. 389 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 95 WSFrom an important St. Helena vineyard, neighbouring Spottswoode and planted in 1980, ’85 and ’86, Abreu’s Madrona Ranch reveals a complex and still-primary bouquet of cherry, black raspberry and smoke, mingling with hints of espresso and rose. It’s rich and multi-dimensional on the palate, with an ample chassis of fine, savoury tannins and a nicely juicy quality to the fruit.Decanter | 94 DEC

Amazing aromas of blackcurrants, forest floors, dark tea and wet earth. Rose petals and leaves. Licorice undertones, too. Full-bodied, tight and precise with hazelnuts, rose petals and dark berries. Sea salt and a savory finish. A serious yet joyful, young red. Better in 2021 but already a fantastic wine to drink.James Suckling | 99 JSA blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc, 21% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot, the 2015 Cariad Proprietary Red Wine sports a very deep garnet-purple color and boasts a very savory nose of chargrill, roasted nuts and yeast extract over a core of blackberry pie, blueberry compote, menthol and Indian spices with wafts of violets and underbrush. The palate has very firm, beautifully ripe tannins with a muscular core of black fruits and black licorice, featuring seamless freshness and amazing length.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPThe highlight among these 2015s, the Cariad is a total knock-out. Dark, vibrant and powerful in the glass, the 2015 offers notable energy to balance the bold flavors of the year. In this vintage, the Cariad has quite a bit more Franc than is typically the case, a decision that has paid off beautifully. I very much like the sense of energy here.Antonio Galloni | 98+ AGReminding me of a Pessac-Leognan (although the style they’re going for is more Pauillac), the 2015 Cariad offers full-bodied, opulent, expansive aromas and flavors of tobacco leaf, cigar-box, earth, and crushed rock to go with a sensational core of ripe black fruits. It has the terrific complexity of the vintage as well as a deep, concentrated style, ample tannin, and while no doubt a sexy drink today, will be better with 4-5 years of bottle age. I continue to be blown away by what winemaker Allison Tauziet accomplishes with these releases from Colgin. Year in, year out, these are some of the most spectacular, singular, and compelling wines made in the world. The 2015s are slightly in the style of her 2013s and aren’t blockbusters, yet have an elegant, detailed style that builds with time in the glass. There’s nothing over the top and they shine for their elegance, complexity, and nuance just as much as for their considerable richness and power. Life is too short to not try these wines at least once! (Drink between 2018-2043)Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDYoung and massive, with a strong flex of tannic strength amid oak, extracted dark berry, cedar and spice flavors. For now the tannins are a major concern, as they are assertive, if not aggressive. Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2021 through 2030. 700 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Moving to the grand vin, the 2016 Proprietary Red is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with the balance Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Tasting like a mix of the 2013 and 2014 with its incredible elegance and power, it reveals a deep purple hue as well as extraordinary notes of crème de cassis, crushed violets, lead pencil, and unsmoked tobacco. Ethereally textured, seamless, and full-bodied, it builds incrementally on the palate and is a monster of a wine that somehow stays light, graceful and elegant. It should hit maturity after a decade of cellaring and be a 40- to 50-year wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDThis is a barrel sample blended of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot, to be bottled the first week of February 2019. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Proprietary Red opens with fragrant notions of candied violets, chocolate box and baking spices with a core of blackcurrant cordial, preserved plums and blackberry compote with touches of garrigue and menthol. Full-bodied, rich and packed with black fruits sparked by tons of cinnamon and cloves accents, it has a firm, velvety-textured frame and great freshness, finishing with epic persistence.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-100 RPThe 2016 Sloan is dazzling. Soft and unctuous with no hard edges, the 2016 Sloan is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. Sweet red plum, blood orange, spice, menthol and licorice are all melded together in a gorgeous, racy Cabernet Sauvignon that hits all the right notes. Unlike most top 2016s, Sloan can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring, although its true potential will only be unlocked with at least a few years in bottle. Spice, star anise, pomegranate and sweet red cherry overtones add an exotic flair.Vinous Media | 97 VMEnormously deep nose with an entire spectrum of black and blue fruit, plus notes of second-flush Darjeeling and mint. Widescreen Napa cabernet with a pronounced licorice note that’s not in the nose. Beautifully integrated, powdery tannins that almost perfectly support the lavish body. Long, plush and graceful finish. You could drink it on release, but this has great aging potential.James Suckling | 97-98 JS