Red Wines

wines

No written review provided | 95 W&SIncredible as you look at these colours heading back to the 1990s; they are barely budging at all. Here I get quite a different quality the smoke, more like wet woodsmoke from a fire that has been doused, or the smoky aspect to Japanese green tea. A clearly powerful wine, one that has real depth and impact, with flavours that keep slowly building one on top of the other. More burly than some, this feels burnished under the Tuscan sun. I prefer the 2001 for its power that walks the line, this is resplendent but in full Super Tuscan mode.Decanter | 94 DECI am happy to see this holding on so well after not tasting it for years. It was always a richer and softer Sassicaia due to the hot growing season. I drank this in Cannes, France, yesterday with some friends and it now shows a soft and delicious character with dried fruits, spice and mushroom and hints of herbs. Full-bodied, silky and velvety. Round and clean. Drink or hold. But wonderful and sassy now.James Suckling | 93 JSIntense dark ruby. Dark berry fruit and exotic spice scents fill the high-toned, penetrating nose. Offers a deep core of beautifully delineated blackberry and blackcurrant flavors layered with bell pepper, dark chocolate and minerals. Smooth tannins frame the very long finish, leaving one with the impression of persistence and balance.Vinous Media | 93 VMShows its class. Loaded with fruit. Rich yet balanced, with lots of jammy and plummy character. Full-bodied, with round tannins and a silky finish. Exotic. Sass made excellent wine again in a less than easy year. Best after 2006. 16,600 cases made, 2,300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

(this vineyard was planted about a hundred years ago, and features a high percentage of millerandage): Bright, dark red. Very ripe but reticent aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and dark chocolate. Densely packed, very ripe, broad and fine-grained but showing little in the way of easy sweetness in the early going. Like the Chambolle Charmes, this is quite closed today and not yet showing its inherent complexity. But the wine’s richness of material is already clear. Finishes with substantial tannic clout. "Always a blacker, denser wine than the Beaumonts," notes van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 91-94 VMIn contrast to the parcel of Beaumonts that is at the very top of the vineyard, the family’s plot of vines in Suchots are down low in the vineyard, next to the cemetery in the village. Suchots is usually one of the most black fruity premier crus in Vosne-Romanée, but the 2015 from the domaine has plenty of red fruit tones in its superb bouquet of red and black raspberries, lovely Vosne spice tones, black minerality, raw cocoa, a touch of bonfire and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully pure on the attack, with stunning transparency, a sappy core, fine-grained tannins and a long, complex and very soil-driven finish. This is one of the finest vintages of young Suchots chez Hudelot that I have ever tasted! (Drink between 2025-2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots (which hails from a parcel planted in 1910) is excellent, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, cherry, smoked duck and burnt orange, elegantly framed by a discrete application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, silky and ample, with serious depth and dimension, juicy acids and ripe, fine-grained tannins. While its serious structural chassis is nicely cloaked in concentrated fruit, this Suchots will benefit from a good decade of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDiscreet but not invisible wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the exuberantly spicy and again very ripe aromas soy, hoisin, black raspberry, plum and floral scents. The generously proportioned and amply rich medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy mouthfeel to the velvety but firm, serious and youthfully austere finale that makes clear this is going to require extended cellaring. In sum, this is an excellent Suchots. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 93 BH

The 2017 D’Alceo possesses mind-blowing intensity and pedigree to burn. Rich, ample and explosive, the 2017 is magnificently impressive right out of the gate. Lavender, rose petal, spice, kirsch, mint and violet lead into a core of inky dark blue/purplish berry fruit. Soft contours and suave, silky tannins give the 2017 so much immediacy, but there is plenty of cellaring potential too. In a word: epic.Vinous Media | 100 VMIt’s not easy to wrap your head around the Castello dei Rampolla 2017 d’Alceo. The wine is exaggerated on almost every front, including its powerful tannins, shaped by a scorching hot and dry vintage that produced super concentrated fruit. I can’t say that this vintage is my style or that it delivers the extreme elegance and finesse that this estate at the heart of Panzano, one of the greatest growing sites in Italy, is capable of. However, there is a lot to be said about this blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot. The wine opens to an almost impenetrable appearance with inky black hues and unruly intensity. The power of the bouquet is driven by the ripeness of the fruit and perhaps a positive pinch of volatile acidity (just the right amount for emphasis) that adds extra lift and punch to the overall effect. Syrupy blackberry segues to smoky tar and resin. We saw impactful tannins in the 2016 Sammarco, but the 2017 d’Alceo takes that astringency one step further. The 2017 will sure take many years to reach harmony, although I suspect that the tannic imprint is here to stay.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPUnderbrush, scorched earth and leather aromas mingle with camphor and whiffs of blue flower on this full-bodied red. The savory palate is concentrated and tightly wound, offering spiced blueberry, ripe black plum and chewing tobacco alongside firm, close-grained tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn’t as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it’s an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade’s patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPaul Zanetti tends to make two different cuvées from the Clos des Epeneaux, one from younger vines and one from the older, left side of the premier cru, planted between 65 and 98 years ago. The combination in bottle is definitely more than the sum of its parts. This is not a blockbuster vintage for what can be an ageworthy wine, but it’s still appealing in a lighter, more approachable mode, with some tannic grip but lots of perfume, finesse and succulent berry sweetness. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux Pommard "Clos des Epeneaux" 1er Cru Red) There is still just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the herbal tea-inflected blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not distinguished mid-palate concentration before terminating in a lingering if slightly attenuated finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this youthfully austere effort will need at least a few more years of keeping first. A Clos des Epeneaux of relative finesse. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91 BH

The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin from the Ponsots is excellent and very much cut from the same stylistic cloth as it was back during Laurent’s time at the helm of Domaine Ponsot in Morey. The ripe and very expressive nose wafts from the glass in a mix of sappy black cherries, black plums, dark chocolate, chalky soil tones, grilled meats, mustard seed and a bit of beetroot in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and impressively mineral in personality, with a sappy core, ripe tannins and fine balance and grip on the long, tangy and complex finish. A superb Ponsot Griotte! (Drink between 2027-2075)John Gilman | 95 JGAn elegant and admirably pure nose offers up notes of red cherry, spice, violet and lavender along with hints of earth and forest floor. The supple and almost delicate flavors exude a subtle minerality on the delicious if mildly short finish that once again flirts with dryness. Like the Chambertin, the balance isn’t quite correctly dialed in but my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that it will. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru shows some clever use of stem, quite focused and well-defined, wonderful Pinoté here, very fragrant and floral. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, slightly chalky tannins, fresh and quite saline with a vibrant, animated finish that has impressive sapidity for the vintage. There is a beguiling sense of completeness here. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 96 VMFrom holdings located exclusively in lieu-dit En la Chapelle, Trapet’s 2018 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru offers up an inviting bouquet of cassis, plums, dark chocolate and pungent spices, framed by a deft touch of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, it’s deep, layered and fine-boned, built around elegantly chalky tannins that are cloaked in a lively core of fruit.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-95+ RP(Chapelle-Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) Chapelle-Chambertin is quite a warm terroir, so I wondered how it would turn out in the torrid summer of 2018, but Jean-Louis picked this very early and the alcohol comes in at a quite classic 13.5 percent this year. The wine is ripe and powerful in personality, albeit, still with that characteristic Chapelle elegance, as it wafts from the glass in a gorgeous blend of plums, black cherries, grilled meats, cigar wrapper, chocolate, an excellent base of soil, vanillin oak and a distinct topnote of fresh nutmeg. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with firm, ripe and seamless tannins, excellent focus and grip and a very long, nascently complex and classic finish. This is outstanding. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 95 JG(Domaine Trapet Pere & Fils Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) A deft application of wood sets off riper aromas of poached plum and black cherry liqueur that display a plenitude of floral and discreet spice elements. The relatively big-bodied flavors are rich to the point of opulence while possessing a caressing texture, all wrapped in a very firm and impressively long finale. I like the balance as the firm tannins are already well-integrated. Lovely stuff. (Drink starting 2035)Burghound | 94 BH

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is more subdued on the nose than Faiveley’s Mazis-Chambertin: scents of baked cherry, bergamot, wild strawberry and quite pronounced sous-bois aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins, taut and linear. Some new oak momentarily just impedes the finish that detracts from the terroir expression, but it does cohere wonderfully in the glass. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting.Vinous Media | 97 VMThe 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is a magical wine in the making, and readers might think of it as a more elegant, structurally refined version of Trapet’s 1999 Latricières. Wafting from the glass with notes of cherries, cassis, dark chocolate, coniferous forest floor and rose petals, it’s full-bodied, velvety and layered, with an incisive spine of acidity, lively acids and terrific concentration, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This is worth a special effort to seek out.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP(Latricières-Chambertin- Domaine Trapet Père et Fils) The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin from Domaine Trapet is another brilliant example of the vintage. As the microclimate here is cooler than in Chapelle, the wine is a tad less powerful in personality out of the blocks and is an absolute classic in the making. The nose is deep, pure and very precise, offering up scents of sweet dark berries, black cherries, meaty tones, a great base of dark soil tones, woodsmoke, espresso and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, soil-driven and shows off stunning mid-palate depth, with lovely focus and nascent complexity, suave, buried tannins and outstanding length and grip on the perfectly balanced finish. A gorgeous vintage of the Trapet family’s Latricières. (Drink between 2030-2080)John Gilman | 95+ JGJean-Louis Trapet’s 0.78ha parcel runs up the slope from the top to the bottom of the Grand Cru and was planted in two stages in 1937 and 1946. Exhibiting the freshness of the site, especially welcome in a vintage like 2018, this has appealing notes of clove and ginger spice, fine-grained 40% new oak, textured tannins, sweet raspberry fruit and a refreshing finish. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 95 DEC(Domaine Trapet Pere & Fils Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru Red) This too presents a deft touch of wood on the slightly cooler and even more floral-infused aromas of wild dark berries, anise, tea and forest floor. There is slightly better energy and certainly much more minerality on the dusty, youthfully austere and sneaky long finish. As one would reasonably expect given the natural coolness of Latricières, this is less marked by the heat of the 2018 vintage. This too is really quite lovely and harmonious. (Drink starting 2035)Burghound | 94 BH