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The prodigious 1997 Amarone Vigneto Alto TB is reminiscent of Henri Bonneau’s 1990 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins. The lofty 16% alcohol is barely noticeable. Yields were a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare. Sadly, there are only 300 cases of this extraordinary Amarone. It boasts notes of smoke, truffle oil, blackberries, plums, and earthy, concentrated black currant jam. Layered, thick, full-bodied, and dry, with extraordinary purity as well as definition, it is an amazing achievement. While not for everybody, this is a singular, impeccably balanced wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2020.Robert Parker | 96 RP

Another tricky vintage affected by hail and rain during the growing season, but saved by a stretch of sunshine at the end of the summer. This wine is herbaceous but delightful, very elegant and fine. It has delicate cherry lift on the nose, with subtle summer woodland notes. In the mouth it has an overt structure of milk chocolate tannins, framing juicy cherry fruit and hedgerow fruit. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 95 DECDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I thought this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPDal Forno’s 2002 Amarone is a first-class effort in every way. The wine reveals loads of ripe, generous fruit that flow onto the palate with stunning intensity. This remarkably pure Amarone possesses incredible detail in its dark wild cherries, chocolate, herbs and toasted oak. The tannins build mightily on the finish even if this isn’t one of Dal Forno’s most massive wines. There is a lot of purity and depth here, although the tannins could use a little more polish. At first I though this might be a relatively early-maturing wine but when I came back to an unopened bottle after two-plus days it had barely budged!Vinous Media | 94 VMThis is very balanced and refined with precise tannins and fresh acidity. Full to medium body with integrated tannins and a racy finish. Not as big and muscular as some Amarones from here but all in balance and length. Finesse. Drink now.James Suckling | 93 JSShows aromas of leather, smoked ham, prune, tarry mineral and dried flowers. An amazing panoply for a 2002, which was a weak vintage. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, intense, peppery finish. Given the difficulties of the vintage, this is a fine effort by Dal Forno. Drink now through 2016. 910 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSWinemaker Romano Dal Forno fearlessly confronted the soggy 2002 vintage with high extraction techniques and barrique aging (36 months). This is an inky, dense wine (more syrupy than it is vinous) with black currant, peppermill, chocolate fudge and big firm wood tannins. It is so monolithic, a viable food match is virtually impossible. As always, Dal Forno straddles a fine line between brilliance and exaggeration.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

Monte Lodoletta Amarone is an exercise in extraction. The wine is absolutely black. Aromas are concentrated and intense and the wine is equally enormous in the mouth thanks to the extraction, oak, fruit and the hot climatic conditions associated with this vintage. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.All of these wines from Romano Dal Forno require significant aeration to show the true breadth of this passionate grower’s innovative style. Ideally the wines should be cellared for a minimum of a few years. Readers in search of short-term gratification are advised to open these bottles at least eight to ten hours before serving. This also holds for the Valpolicella, which has become an especially massive, structured wine after Dal Forno started producing it from 100% dried fruit in the 2002 vintage. Dal Forno favors 100% new American oak for his wines, although in recent years he has brought the aging regime down considerably.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPDal Forno’s 2003 Amarone is a joy to taste. Today it is surprisingly much more accessible than the Valpolicella in this vintage. Inviting aromatics lead to a sumptuous expression of dark fruit, bitter chocolate, minerals, licorice, tar and smoke. The wine possesses stunning depth and a finish that lasts forever. A few years of bottle age will allow the wine to acquire additional complexity, but this remains one of the more accessible Amarones (in relative terms) that Dal Forno has made in the recent past. According to Dal Forno, the 2003 Amarone has a touch more residual sugar than is the norm here (owing to the hot vintage), which is the main reason the wine remains relatively accessible.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThis has a great nose, with loads of peppery, meaty dried black fruit, fig and floral aromas, with an array of spices, fresh herbs and violet. Full-bodied, concentrated and chewy, with a long, intense finish. Built to age. Best after 2011. 940 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSDal Forno’s practice of using older parcels of vines for his Amarone paid off in 2003, with the more established plants able to better withstand the drought conditions of the vintage. This has aromas of dark, plummy fruit, while the palate pairs a rich mouthfeel with grippy tannins. It’s soft and very textured, with juicy blackberry followed by violet and wild herb overtones and a chocolatey finish. Surprisingly accessible considering its massive scale. Drinking Window 2018 - 2032Decanter | 94 DEC

The 2005 Rosso del Bepi is made with the same blend of grapes found in the Valpolicella Superiore. Only in the case of this wine, the entire mass of fruit sees a four-month appassimento cycle. The wine is aged in large oak casks for eight years. A severe hail storm in 2005 reduced yields. The fruit was good in that vintage, but not good enough to become Amarone. All that potential got locked into this wine instead. Despite its age, the Rosso del Bepi offers surprising freshness and crispness with delineated tones of dried cherry and pressed rose. This wine has more decades of cellar aging locked within.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

This is a Masseto that is its own now with balance and harmony. It shows delicate chocolate and berry character with hints of hazelnut. Medium to full body. Long silky finish. Drink now.James Suckling | 96 JSTasted next to the 2002, the 2005 Masseto is perhaps a bit edgier, with an extra kick of tannic intensity that gives the wine its sense of direction and a good kick of energy too. I very much admire the tension in the 2005, a wine built on freshness, aromatic depth and mid-weight structure. Cool, rainy weather towards the end of the season resulted in a late harvest that took place between September 14 and 30.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGFruit was picked later than normal and the Masseto Merlot does indeed show mature aromas of black cherry, ripe blackberry, earthy iron and polished stone. The intensity and purity are amazing and the wine is sophisticated, soft and very rich on the finish. It is already showing beautiful evolution in the glass.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2005 Masseto (Merlot) is simply gorgeous. A wine of extraordinary class and personality, it remains very primary in its dark fruit, licorice, cassis and toasted oak. It offers notable concentration and well-integrated tannins, all of which convey an impression of awesome harmony, finesse and balance. The tricky growing season seems to have been less of an issue for the Merlot, particularly in the old-vine Masseto Centrale vineyard. The 2005 Masseto has been superb every time I have tasted it thus far. As is often the case, the wine requires at least a few years of bottle age before it becomes approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPAn exotic bouquet reveals floral, spice, cherry compote and truffle elements. A Masseto that’s all about elegance, with a silky texture, wild berry fruit, firm tannins and bright acidity. This still has some tannins to give, but is delicious now. Fine length. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2033. 2,660 cases made, 550 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2007 Montevetrano is the product of an unusual vintage characterized by hot temperatures that were virtually uninterrupted throughout the year. Bright red fruit, flowers and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from this silky, beautifully balanced Montevetrano. The combination of explosive ripe fruit, richness and finesse are utterly breathtaking. The warmth of the vintage comes through in the wine’s generosity, yet there are no suggestions whatsoever of over- ripeness. This is a magnificent Montevetrano.Antonio Galloni | 95 AGThe 2007 Montevetrano suggests a more prominent presence of Cabernet Sauvignon, aromatically speaking, compared to the other wines in this mini retrospective. The percentage of grapes used is the same but this impression is reinforced by the warmth of the summer growing season and the exuberance of the fruit. Blackberry aromas are followed by spice, leather and tar. There are subtle notes of balsam herb and green peppercorn as well. The wine is structured and firm but not astringent. The tannins are softly integrated and fine in texture.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPDark and sappy, with tightly wound layers of black currant, blackberry and plum skin. Hints of underbrush, ash and smoke are framed by firm tannins, which need time to resolve. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico. Best from 2013 through 2021.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

It started in 1993, with 3ha of vineyards; now Buglioni has 54ha. This riserva is made only in the best vintages, with the best hand-picked grapes. Aged for 30 months in tonneaux, it has tertiary notes of balsam, dry leaves, sweet tobacco and jam. Bramble fruits and summer-fruit pudding surround the taste buds. Intense, elegant and poised, with great length and huge structure. Try it with bitter chocolate or enjoy it on its own. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 96 DECInviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WESome 3,570 bottles were made and each one is numbered. In some parts of the Valpolicella, 2010 was considered a difficult vintage, but not here. The 2010 Amarene della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Teste Dure is extracted, inky and soft. The wine is showing some maturity and evolution, with licorice and tar behind primary notes of dried blackberry, plum and raisin. I would suggest a slightly reduced drinking window as a result, maybe pairing it alongside lamb with balsamic reduction. The next time this Riserva was made was 2015, and the folks at Buglioni have been experimenting with whole-cluster fermentations and amphorae aging too. So far, they are happy with the results, so we will surely see these methods used in upcoming releases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIntense soy-sauce and cooked-plum nose that won’t be for everyone, but on the palate this is rich and silky. Good length. Drink now with mature hard cheeses.James Suckling | 91 JS

The 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Ambrosan wafts up extorverted and opulent, with exotic spices and medicinal cherries giving way to mocha and sweet pipe tobacco. This is silky-smooth and soothing, balancing both savory and sweet while coming across as autumnal in character, as rosy inner florals form. There is so much depth and focus here, showing citrus-tinged plum skins with coffee grinds and dark chocolate. This just goes on and on, lightly structured and incredibly long yet balanced. The 2011 Ambrosan is a thrilling wine to taste.Vinous Media | 96 VMVery pretty balance of fruit and tannins with freshness and finesse. Medium-bodied with beautiful, round and polished tannins. Really refined and elegant with lovely length. Drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSCedar, dark-skinned fruit and vanilla aromas form the nose on this hearty red. The chewy palate offers baked plum, coconut and star anise alongside pliant tannins. Drink through 2026.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

A bit closed at first, the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille sees fruit harvested from a five-hectare cru site with galestro limestone soils and all-southern exposures. Despite the initial shyness of the bouquet, this wine ultimately shows a more profound and elegant approach in this warm vintage. It just takes a little longer to get there. The nose offers a full spectrum of fruit, floral and earthy tones that speak so highly of this all-Sangiovese appellation. The wine is smooth and rich in terms of density with beautiful firmness at the back.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPSmoke, earthiness, black cherries, licorice, menthol and dark spices are some of the signatures in the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille. A dark, brooding wine, the Sugarille boasts tremendous depth and intensity, not to mention tons of character. Deeply spiced, mentholated notes wrap around the polished finish. This is another superb showing from one of the Gaja family’s under the radar gems, if that can be said. In a word: fabulous.Vinous Media | 95 VMA powerful red with chewy tannins and hints of cedar and wood. Full-bodied, tight and tannic. I like the tannin tension. Needs two or three years to soften: Try in 2017.James Suckling | 93 JSAromas of underbrush, scorched earth, French oak and a whiff of new leather lift out of the glass. The powerfully structured palate offers dried black cherry, toast, espresso and dark spice alongside firm fine-grained tannins. It’s still a bit austere so give it a few more years to fully develop. Drink 2020–2025Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2012 Aglianico del Vulture Superiore Storico wafts up from the glass with a dusty mix of dried roses, grilled herbs, exotic brown spice, plums and hints of camphor. This is elegance to the extreme, velvety and pliant, yet with a core of mineral-tinged black fruits, savory spices and brisk acidity that adds a lovely balance. The 2012 finishes structured and grippy, yet the mouth is left watering for more, as a resonance of tart wild berries and blood orange lingers on and on. At 10 years old, this is still just a baby, and with a potential that’s off the charts. The ungrafted, 80-year-old vines that create the Storico are planted in clay and sandstone soils derived from underwater volcanic eruptions. Drinking Window 2023 - 2032Vnous Media | 96 VMMade with ungrafted 80-year-old vines, this gorgeous wine opens with an enticing bouquet of perfumed berry, fragrant blue flower, baking spice, leather and a whiff of Mediterranean brush. The concentrated enveloping palate is still young but already offers blackberry extract, raspberry jam, licorice, dried sage and tobacco. Firm fine-grained tannins offer age-worthy support and a velvety texture. Drink 2020–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEReally soft and attractive texture. Delicious dark-berry, hazelnut and light chocolate character. Full-bodied, tight and well formed. Drink now or hold James Suckling | 93 JS

A luscious red with dried berry, cherry and hints of cedar and tea. Full body, fine and velvety tannins and a long and flavorful finish. This is compacted and tight with great depth. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Colore is on the market now. Production of 2013 and 2014 was skipped, and the next vintage we shall see (very soon) is 2015, which is also reviewed in this report. This vintage produced large berry sizes for Sangiovese—something Bibi Graetz is always happy to see because it is an indicator of elegance and finesse within the context of the house style. If you consider this wine, his observation makes perfect sense. This warm vintage is powerful and rich in its natural state, so any additional berry density might easily lead to overextraction and heaviness. However, the mouthfeel is objectively thinner and more compact in this vintage. Colore represents a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, dried cherry and toasted spice. This vintage offers a very attractive mineral note as well. Fruit is selected from three of Bibi Graetz’s favorite vineyards with ancient vines: Lamole (in Chianti Classico), Vincigliata and Siena. Only 5,000 bottles were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPMuscular and concentrated, yet with a sense of elegance derived from vibrant acidity, this red displays black cherry, blackberry, leather, iron and tobacco flavors. Consistent from the start to the long finish. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Best from 2020 through 2028. 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA tricky year with a very hot dry summer that resulted in low yields, but also marked by a wet September. The sour-cherry nose is fresh and lively. It’s medium-bodied but still quite concentrated, and while no blockbuster, it has density. It lacks some flesh and weight of fruit, resulting in a somewhat hollow mid-palate, but it’s attractive and already drinking well. Drinking Window 2021 - 2026.Decanter | 90 DEC

Underbrush, new leather, wild herb and dark-skin berry aromas meld with balsamic whiffs of eucalyptus. The full-bodied firmly structured palate evokes raspberry compote, black cherry marinated in spirits, tobacco and star anise set against a backbone of close-grained tannins. This will age for decades. Drink 2023–2043.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEThe 2013 Sugarille is more classic in style than the Rennina yet is still a ripe, sexy beast of a Brunello. Ripe cherries, red currants, spice, and balsamic notes all flow to a concentrated, medium to full-bodied effort that has nicely integrated acidity, solid mid-palate depth, and enough ripe tannins to keep it drinking nicely for 10-15+ years or more. It’s a beautiful wine.Jeb Dunnuck | 95 JDDeep red-ruby. Delicate aromas of flinty red cherry and herbs complicated by hints of mocha and lifted by a bright violet topnote. Dense, rich and concentrated but light on its feet, offering a very polished mouthfeel thanks to serious but noble tannins that nicely frame the refined, steely red fruit flavors. Finishes long and very elegant. Just like the 2013 Brunello Rennina, this also has 15% alcohol but is so well balanced that you can hardly tell (unlike with the Rennina). Knockout young Brunello from Gaja, one of the very best in memory.Vinous Media | 95+ VMA very aromatic red. Typical sangiovese aromas of cherry and rose petal with hints of bark. Full body, firm and silky tannins. A racy linear line runs through it. Tight and firm now. Give it two or three years to soften.James Suckling | 94 JSThe single-vineyard 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille has a tighter core and a blacker heart compared to the Rennina. This wine is momentarily more difficult to penetrate and comprehend. It makes a more abrupt first impression but then relaxes and reveals more of its character only after it has spent extra time in your company. Then, it becomes suddenly exuberant and loud. This is a dynamic expression of Sangiovese with bold ripe fruit, spice and balsam notes to carry it forward during cellar aging. This vintage offers firmness and strength. Some 20,000 bottles were produced (of both Sugarille and Rennina, respectively).Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA mix of sweet plum, cherry, bouillon and graphite aromas and flavors, all backed by a solid structure, this is dense and tightly wound, with terrific balance and a long, focused finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

The 2014 Barbaresco Crichët Pajè is an absolutely exquisite wine that shows how compelling this vintage is in Barbaresco. Fresh, vibrant and wonderfully deep, the 2014 races out of the glass, showing tremendous depth, energy and pedigree. Crushed red-toned fruit, orange peel, rose petal, anise and mint are some of the many aromas and flavors that develop, but its really the wine’s balance that impresses more than anything else. It’s a super classic wine from Alfredo and Luca Roagna.Vinous Media | 97 VMA solidly structured red, delivering macerated cherry and plum flavors accented by eucalyptus, spice, mint, iron and earth notes. Turns lean and sinewy on the lingering finish for now, yet a thread of ripe fruit lurks underneath. Best from 2025 through 2043. 136 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Just bottled, the 2015 Barolo Riserva Cascina Dardi is a real powerhouse. This full-bodied, potent Barolo packs a huge punch. It won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, that much is obvious. Time in the glass brings out aromatic intensity and inner perfume. Spice and blood orange accents lend an exotic quality to this dark, layered Barolo. The Riserva is a wine for readers who appreciate the natural fragility of artisan wines, wines that aren’t perfect but that perfectly embody the human spirit.Vinous Media | 96 VM

The full name of this estate is Baricci Colombaio Montosoli, and indeed it is one of the protagonists of the celebrated Montosoli vineyard. The Baricci 2015 Brunello di Montalcino is highly distinguished by its mineral side (with marl, marine fossil, schist quartz and Galestro soils), and that is truly the magic of this wine. There is a pungent note of raw grape at first, but it lifts to reveal forest berry, camphor ash and subtle touches of sweet spice. These elements come together like a tightly fitted mosaic. The wine is balanced and fresh, with just enough structure to add firmness and considerable length to its polished mid-weight frame. In fact, mouthfeel is this wine’s strongest suit. Acidity is never a problem in Montosoli, located on the north side of Montalcino where day and night temperature shifts play an important role in slow fruit ripening. This warm vintage shows higher extract, but the overall balance allowed Baricci to bottle using very little sulfur (which could account for that little tangy note you get on first nose). The wine went into bottle in July 2019, and 15,000 bottles were made. It was released in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPGood full ruby-red. Captivating nose combines, ripe red cherry, black plum, minerals, herbs, mocha and sexy brown spices. Juicy and sweet, with refined, suave blackberry, raspberry, minerals and tobacco flavors dominating. Finishes extremely long, with a steely quality, fine-grained tannins and a multifaceted personality. Another great Brunello from Baricci.Vinous Media | 96 VMAll 5ha of Baracci’s vines are contained in one single vineyard on the hill of Montosoli. With a southeastern exposure, the vineyards are cooled by breezes from the north and east and the soils are a complex mix of marl, schist and quartz. The 2015 is effortlessly balanced, starting with suitably mellowed but still radiant aromas of fennel blossom, tobacco and crushed stone. It flows smoothly on the palate, demonstrating its cunning power with well-honed tannins. For now, underlying tasty red cherry is highly gratifying but this will express so much more in years to come. Drinking Window 2023 - 2037Decanter | 95 DECA textbook Sangiovese, in the ripe style, boasting cherry, leather, iron, earth and tobacco aromas and flavors. Firm and lively, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, mineral and savory elements. Best from 2022 through 2040. 1,250 cases made, 125 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSSubdued aromas evoking underbrush, baked plum and scorched earth form the nose along with a balsamic whiff of camphor. Full bodied and chewy, the brawny, enveloping palate features dried cherry, licorice, coffee bean and the warmth of alcohol alongside firm, noble tannins. Drink 2022–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WE

The 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Rose delle Casasse is one of the most distinctive wines in all of Piedmont. It emerges from a tiny parcel in Neive first planted in 1913 with the Rose clone of Nebbiolo known for its aromatic intensity, that is rarely seen these days. Deeply bright and perfumed, the 2015 offers up an exotic mélange of sweet red cherry, blood orange, mint, spice, rose petal and kirsch. There’s terrific depth and plenty of substance to wrap it all together. The 2015 spent four years in wood, a combination of small barrels and medium-sized casks. I wonder what this wine would like taste like if it was aged in more neutral oak, as there is a bit of oak tannin here. Even so, the 2015 is an exquisite wine and a Barbaresco of real character.Antonio Galloni | 96 AG

An opulent Brunello, suggesting glacé cherries, strawberry ice-cream, peppermint tea and dried cloves. Full-bodied and very structured, muscling sturdy layers of tannins and rolling sheets of dark fruit into ironclad balls of flavor and texture. Long and fruit-driven on the finish. Drink from 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThis wine reveals a beautifully rich and saturated appearance as it pours from the bottle. The Cerbaia 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty presentation of Sangiovese-driven aromas with small berries, underbrush, moist potting soil and blue flowers. All of these aromas are perfectly tied to the variety. In the mouth, Cerbaia’s interpretation is lean and crisp with medium weight and a long, silky mouthfeel. It does feel thin on the mid-palate and tapers out to a medium or short finish. Fruit comes from a 4.5-hectare vineyard with Galestro-rich soils. Some 18,000 bottles were released in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPSomething ethereal about the strawberry, faint cherry aromas. Full bodied, spicy and peppery; ripe immaculate fruit on the palate with fine tannins creating a beautiful texture. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 90 DEC Scorched earth, leather and camphor aromas mingle with a whiff of resin. On the austere tightly knit palate, grainy tannins accompany sour cherry, orange zest and tobacco. This will benefit with a few more years of cellar time. Drink after 2023.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

This wine was not produced in the 2014 vintage. The excellent 2015 Taurasi Riserva Piano di Montevergine amply makes up for that gap thanks to its generous purple and black fruit. This is a terrific vintage with ample spice and smoke. Feudi di San Gregorio CEO Antonio Capaldo tells me that he likes 2015 more than 2016 and he likes 2017 best of all. I can’t wait to review those finished wines over the next few years. The 2015 is more explosive and 2016 is more direct, fine and elegant. This wine shows extra volume in the mouth, making a great impact. Some of the historically best vintages of this important wine include 1999, 2001, 2010 and 2013. The jury is still out on whether this wine will be produced in the difficult 2018 vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPThe 2015 Piano di Montevergine is more primary than the 2013, its bold blackberry flavors framed by firm, black-rock tannins. The 2015 growing season was hot and dry in much of Italy, yet this wine feels bright and energetic, the fruit coming from the estate’s first planted vineyard on a plateau at 1,300 feet above sea level. Its cool, graphite tones and mouthwatering acidity surge through the ripe fruit tones as they take on notes of licorice and dried herbs, and the wine stays balanced through a smooth and spicy finish.Wine & Spirits | 95 W&SA tarry red, with smoke and loam notes transitioning to flavors of dried cherry, dark chocolate, menthol and spice. Full-bodied and fresh, with well-knit tannins providing light definition throughout and emerging to firm the chalky finish. Drink now through 2030. 2,000 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSFrom Piano di Montevergine and Taurasi villages, this Riserva is harvested from relatively young vines of 15 to 20 years. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, it is focused on graphite minerality and restrained cassis, enhanced by a herbaceous character and wild dark fruits, linked nose-palate by cacao powder. The tannins are velvety with huge mid-palate extraction and firm acidity, yet the wine is balanced due to a great concentration of fruit. Overall a bold style right now; it will improve further with ageing. Drinking Window: 2023 - 2035Decanter | 92 DECMeaty and herbal notes on the nose with dried earth and pistachio skin. Cloves, too. It’s full-bodied with layers of ripe and dried black fruit, cloves, walnuts and smoked meat. Firm, slightly dry tannins, but still attractive. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 91 JSAromas of toasted oak, baked plum and mocha lead the nose. The aromas carry over to the firm palate together with notes of star anise and clove. Close-grained tannins grip the finish. Drink through 2027.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WE

Woodland berry, blue flower, sunbaked soil and a whiff of dark spice shape the nose. Structured and extremely elegant, the focused, impeccable palate doles out juicy red cherry, strawberry, baking spice and star anise set against taut polished tannins that provide seamless support. It’s well balanced, with fresh acidity. It’s already tempting but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2022–2032. Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEA combination of savory and fruit elements, this red reveals cherry, berry, eucalyptus, menthol, tar and mineral flavors. Firms up, with monolithic tannins locking this tight. Patience is required. Best from 2023 through 2042. 900 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 95 WSA rich and layered Barbaresco with cedar and plums, as well as light leather and rose aromas that follow to a full yet balanced palate and a chewy finish. Very polished. Drink in 2020, but already beautiful.James Suckling | 95 JSGaja’s 2015 Barbaresco is gorgeous. Deep, pliant and resonant, the 2015 exudes class from the very first taste. Today, the aromatics are not especially open or expressive, but it is the wine’s depth and overall sense of harmony that really carry the day. Hints of orange peel, spice and rosewater give the 2015 an exotic aromatic top register that is hugely appealing. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this gem. The 2015 is a wonderfully complete and harmonious wine, but it really does need a few years in the cellar to fully unwind.Vinous Media | 94 VMThe 2015 Barbaresco was to be bottled a week after I tasted this sample for review. Gaia Gaja was waiting for the right moon before commencing bottling. This vintage is not unlike the 2005 growing season that saw a good amount of rain in spring and scorching heat in the summer. The risk of downy mildew made vintners extra vigilant. Although the 2015 vintage was not ideal for color fixing Nebbiolo (indeed, this wine is slightly less intense in terms of its color saturation), it did prove an important year for power, structure and dry extract. This is a full and generous expression with a fine, loose texture and rich fruit flavors.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPClassic Nebbiolo perfume of violet and raspberry, followed by red cranberry and cherry fruit. Sweet, slightly creamy oak; this is approachable and – although it lacks the depth of the single vineyard wines – it’s still impressively long with gorgeous charm. (Drink between 2018-2032)Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2015 San Leonardo pours forth with a beautiful velvety appearance and sultry dark garnet color. This wine shows a lot of life and dark fruit purity with black plum, blackberry, cassis and tarry prune. There is a delightful note of black pepper that is specific to this warm and sunny vintage. The fruit shows softer and richer concentration compared to past vintages and more pulpy density that gives this edition a bigger profile in terms of mouthfeel. Production is 75,000 bottles. San Leonardo is a wine made for long aging, but the nice thing about this vintage is that the bouquet remains quite accessible at this young age. Nevertheless, I’d still suggest keeping this bottle in your cellar so that it can calmly finish its evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RPThe 2015 San Leonardo is a classic in the making. The bouquet is wonderfully perfumed with peppery florals, mixing tart cherry and blueberry with white smoke, hints of graphite and shaved cedar. Silky textures race across a core of juicy acids and minerals, making for a ripe yet cool-toned and pleasurably tactile expression. Youthful tannins slowly make themselves known toward the close. Long, structured and spicy, the 2015 finishes with a crescendo of tart blue and black fruits, tapering off to notes of subtly sweet spice. As good as this is today, it will only get better over time. That said, it doesn’t appear that this is going to shut down anytime in the immediate future, so it’s certainly worth checking on a bottle or two before forgetting the rest in your cellar.Vinous Media | 95 VMCreamy nose with cedar and plummy fruit. Firm on the palate with fine-grained tannins and a crunchy acidic core. Nominated by Jeannie Cho Lee MW. Drinking Window 2022 - 2040.Decanter | 95 DEC(San Leonardo Vigneti delle Dolomiti - Tenuta San Leonardo) This wine is an old vine blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenère, with the first vintage having been created in this mountainous corner of the Alto Adige by Carlo Gonzaga in 1982. However, these grape varieties have a long history at this Trentino estate, as they were first planted here at the dawn of the twentieth century. The wine is aged for fully two years in French barriques, with the one third of the casks renewed each year. The vineyards are farmed organically, the wine fermented with indigenous yeasts in cement vats and the 2015 comes in at a svelte thirteen percent octane, with the cépages in this vintage being sixty percent cabernet sauvignon, thirty percent carmenère and ten percent merlot. The 2015 San Leonardo offers up a deep and nascently complex bouquet of dark berries, smoked meats, tobacco leaf, coffee grounds, a superb base of gravelly soil tones, a touch of sweet botanicals and a discreet framing of nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, young and elegant in profile, with fine focus and grip, ripe, buried tannins and a long, nascently complex finish that closes with a note of bitterness that reminds me of Emidio Pepe’s wines. This young wine takes a bit of time in the glass to blossom and is clearly built for long-term cellaring. I love its shape and aesthetic sensibilities and have to imagine that it is a gorgeous middleweight when it is fully mature, but this is the first vintage I have had the pleasure to taste. A new world to me that I intend to follow and see what San Leonardo tastes like when it is fully mature! (Drink between 2031-2075) | 93+ JGNotes of wet tobacco, dried earth, cumin, cedar and dried red plums form the basis of the nose. Structured and serious on the palate with just the right amount of fruit to balance out the backbone of firm, austere tannins. Drink from 2021.James Suckling | 92 JS

The 2015 Valadorna (65% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot) is a dark and thickly endowed red wine that boasts a rich and lasting grip on the palate. The bouquet offers depth and complexity with dark fruit, leather, cured tobacco and spice. There are also softer notes of chocolate and ground espresso beans. The wine’s seamless integration of flavors leads to increased momentum and intensity as the wine continues to open in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPThis rich, powerful red, packed with blackberry and blueberry fruit, is beginning to mellow, offering a woodsy panoply of mushroom, humus and autumn leaves in the background. There are still some tannins to resolve. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2032. 1,500 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSBig and rich wine with lots of fruit and tannins. Plenty of wood, too. Full body. Needs two or three years to soften. Try after 2021.James Suckling | 92 JS

Love the balance and finesse to this young Brunello with very soft, creamy-textured tannins that frame the pretty palate, which shows chocolate, spice and cherry character. It’s full-bodied, yet polished and balanced. This needs another two or three years to come together. Try after 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Tenuta la Fuga 2015 Brunello di Montalcino needs a little extra time to open, as the wine is initially shy. There are some flinty notes that lift quickly to reveal mild fruit aromas of blackberry and dried raspberry. The fruit feels a little closed, and the mouthfeel is silky and dry. I’d recommend capturing that fruit while it lasts and drinking this Brunello within the next 10 years or so. Some 20,000 bottles of it were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPLots of balsamic and ethereal notes, charming dry red fruits, and an abundance of spices. Soft juicy and elegant on the palate with depth of ripe red fruits. Mocha and chocolate finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 91 DEC

A dusty Brunello with dried berries, walnuts, caramelized orange, felt-tip pen and dried tobacco. Full-bodied and warming on the palate, which reveals a sweet-and-sour character, created by the interplay of solid acidity and dried fruit. Drink from 2023.James Suckling | 95 JSHere’s a confident and genuine expression of Sangiovese that manages to be both accessible and complicated at the same time. Brunello is one of the few Italian wines to bridge the gap between those two extremes. The Voliero 2015 Brunello di Montalcino offers a steady stream of small berry fruit and cherry aromas. But there is width to this bouquet and deeper layers of spice, tar and licorice also play important roles. This Brunello ages in oak for 36 months in order to find harmony and balance. Some 7,866 bottles were made. Those bottles were filled in July 2019 and the wine hit the market in January 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPVery charming and elegant enticing nose, earthy with leather and spiced notes. Rich and full bodied on the palate with plenty of jammy notes, dry flowers, and red forest fruits. Classic. Drinking Window 2021 - 2025.Decanter | 94 DECHere I’m finding a spicy display of Sangiovese fruit, as dusty dried florals give way to mineral-laced bright cherry, with hints of cedar, leather and white smoke. On the palate, soft textures wash across the senses, ushering in pure red berry fruits, as brisk acids firm up the experience, leaving saline-minerals and fine tannin in their wake. The finish is medium in length and a bit angular, resonating on savory spice with licorice, dried black cherries, inner florals, and a lingering twang of acid. The Voliero needs time to fully come together, yet it is likely to always remain a spicy, acid-driven effort.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Perfumed with flowers, dark fruits and orange peel on the nose. Full-bodied with firm and integrated tannins that are chewy yet polished and focused. Turns muscular and toned at the end. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 97 JSHere is Castello Banfi’s top-shelf wine from an iconic vintage. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro shows a dark ruby or garnet appearance. The wine is impeccably balanced, aromatic and powerful all at the same time. The bouquet presents etched aromas of wild berry fruit and cherry, and there is a good amount of earth, wild rose and grilled herb. The wine is broad and long-lasting on the palate (with 15.5% alcohol) for safekeeping in your cellar. Exactly 15,976 bottles were released.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96+ RPBanfi was rewarded for waiting out the 100 millimetres of rain that fell mid-September, harvesting ripe, healthy grapes at the end of the month. With the 2016, the estate has deftly balanced the solid, substantial structure of the Poggio all’Oro site with generosity of fruit and depth of expression. Fresh plum and black cherry gain intrigue from coffee, violet, wet soil and cinnamon notes. A concentrated, dense Brunello that carries its proportions effortlessly, this is a credit to the ongoing work at Banfi. Ageing is in 80% large French oak casks and 20% barriques. It will be released September 2022.Decanter | 95 DECBright and elegant, evoking cherry, strawberry, floral, iron and spice aromas and flavors, with wild herbs peeking through on the finish. Shows a dense structure that bodes well for the future, and overall this feels balanced. Best from 2025 through 2043. 1,330 cases made, 70 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio all’Oro is packed full of hedonistic pleasures. An alluring mix of crushed black cherries, plums, tobacco and mocha with contrasting hints of mint leaf and camphor rises up from the glass. This fills the palate with velvety textures carried over a weighty framework, yet the impression is one of pure elegance, as black-tea-infused red currants come together with nuances of candied citrus and dark inner florals. Tart berries, dusty bitter cacao and a coating of fine tannins are nicely contrasted by a refreshing bump of residual acids, as this tapers off dramatically long. For fans of the style, the 2016 is a gorgeous and balanced representation of deep-south Montalcino terroir. The Poggio all’Oro cru is aged in a blend of 70% French oak casks of 60–90 hectoliters and 30% barriques for 30 months.Vinous Media | 93 VMForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins. Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KOForest floor, camphor, blue flower and pipe tobacco aromas take shape in the glass. Full-bodied and brawny, the concentrated palate exhibits raisin, prune, licorice and the heat of evident alcohol alongside densely woven, velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

This has enticing notes of ripe black cherries, mushrooms and truffle oil. A beautiful, full red with lots of silky tannins, concentrated flavors and delicious layers of cherries and licorice. The fruit really covers the intense tannins nicely. Best ever from here. Drink after 2023.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2016 Brunello di Montalcino from Tenuta Buon Tempo mixes wild strawberries with hints of plum, sweet herbs and flowery undergrowth. It’s soft and soothing at first, ushering in ripe red/black fruits with cooling acids and minerals, which creates a lifted and refined expression. This turns very floral and classically dry through the finale, with hints of sweet spice and licorice resonating above a coating of fine-grained tannins. The 2016 Tenuta Buon Tempo gains volume and depth the longer it sits in the glass, leading me to believe that the best is yet to come.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2016 has a fairly deep concentration of color, with aromas of blackberry, plum, violets, and tobacco. The palate is approachable and full-bodied, with fine-grained tannin. The aromas follow through to the palate, but with more freshness and lift, and this wine will be welcome drinking over the next 15 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDAt the southeastern edge of the denomination, Buon Tempo was originally established in the early 1990s. The property has been owned by Swede Per Landin since 2012. Open-knit and friendly, this cheerful Brunello leads with cherry and blackberry. Charmingly accented by flint and pepper, the palate offers lots of crunchy, fresh acidity. Smooth overall, with just a touch of astringency showing up on the finish, it will make for delightful drinking over the next five to seven years. Drinking Window 2022 - 2028.Decanter | 90 DEC