My favorite duty as a Sokolin Wine Consultant is to sample wines that are unique, rare or limited in production. This week, I had the pleasure of experiencing a new arrival, the 2011 Calder Charbono Meyers Vineyard. I was quite excited to taste an almost extinct grape.
The 2011 Calder is 100% Charbono. Charbono, also known as Douce Noir which translates as “sweet black”, is known for growing in the Savoie wine region of France. What was once the most widely grown red grape in Eastern France and a California favorite is now only grown in small amounts in Argentina, Piedmont and on 70 hectares in California. Why has such a historically prominent grape been reduced to such small plots of land? Producers have learned over the years that there is not much of a market for this scarce grape, but those drinkers who enjoy it hold it on a pedestal, as they would with cult wines.
Only produced in limited amounts, this Charbono from Meyer Vineyard is a fine table wine which would pair well and accentuate the flavors of a meal, especially one focused on meat or nuts. I decided this bottle would not be paired with a whole meal, but instead be enjoyed with a bowl of pistachios and a warm, crackling fire in the background. This was an exquisite setting for the 2011 Charbono.
On the nose it exposed a subtle earthiness, dark fruits and a hint of oak. On the palate, the acidity was quite moderate with a silky texture and medium body that exposed currant, woodsmoke and a lingering finish that lasted until your next sip, which was not far behind.
While accessible and quite a nice drink now, I suggest giving this bottle some time to age. Over time, you will truly be able to experience all that this Charbono has to offer. With the price tag of $25.99 it only makes sense to have a bottle now and others to open through the years to fully understand the potential of this unique grape. This wine received a 92 point score from John Gilman, who called it a “terrific throwback style of wine…” If you’re looking to experience something new and unique, I highly recommend it.