Notes from the Buyer’s Desk: 2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon

2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ClavoillonThe word “legend” is thrown around a lot in the wine business, and it can generally be quite subjective. Those who love Bordeaux may say that Chateau Petrus is legendary, while those who enjoy Tuscans may proclaim that Ornellaia is one of the most legendary wine producers of all time. While both the Bordeaux lover and the Tuscan lover are correct, they may disagree with one another’s opinion. There are however those producers that transcend subjective opinion and are generally regarded as “legendary” by wine lovers of all tastes. Domaine Leflaive is without a doubt one of those transcendent producers and the various white wines that they produce from the Burgundy region in France are some of the most highly regarded and sought after whites produced anywhere in the world. The wines of Domaine Leflaive are in a word, legendary.

The Burgundy region, while not big by any measure, is one of the most complex and intricate wine growing regions in the world. While some of the biggest Bordeaux producers may have hundreds of acres of vines within their domaine, some of the smallest Burgundy producers are only able to work with just a scant number of vines within any given vineyard. Production is usually limited to only a few barrels of any given wine in even the most successful vintages. This limited production is at the core of Burgundy’s appeal. Every bottle produced is immediately a limited edition. Prices can rise quickly once the wines are released and the most sought after bottles from the best producers can rise in price exponentially from year to year. The good news is that with so many producers making wine at so many different levels, even a novice can get access to some of the world’s greatest terroir for a reasonable price.

When explaining the white Burgundy market to a friend recently, I found an interesting correlation between luxury cars and the various levels of Burgundy producers and wines. Within the appellation of Puligny Montrachet for instance, you have the Grand Cru climat (vineyard) of Montrachet which could easily be compared to a super luxury vehicle such as a Bentley or Rolls Royce. Bottles of Montrachet depending on the producer can trade for thousands of dollars per bottle. Just like a Rolls Royce or Bentley, Montrachet is all but unobtainable for most wine lovers. For example, 2014 Leflaive Montrachet is currently trading globally at an average of $10,000+ per bottle! But Leflaive also produces several other wines that fetch more reasonable prices. Leflaive’s other three Grand Cru wines, Chevalier Montrachet, Batard Montrachet and Bievenue Batard Montrachet all trade between $400-900 globally. While not a bargain, these Grand Cru bottles are still an approachable luxury and could be compared to a Mercedes, BMW or Range Rover. The great thing about Burgundy is that if you shop around a bit you can find a few other producers also making these wines, but they lack the legendary “Leflaive” name, so you may find a Batard Montrachet from a lesser producer from the same vintage for a fraction of the price. I like to think of these bottles as the equivalent of a “certified, pre-owned vehicle.” It might not be as great as the original, but it’s a similar experience without paying full price.

In addition to the big-name Grand Cru bottles, Leflaive also produces 5 “premier cru” bottles commonly noted as “1er Cru”. Premier Cru is the equivalent of an entry level luxury vehicle. Think a Mercedes C-Class, Lexus IS or a Cadillac ATS. You get that luxury feel without the premium luxury price tag, and Leflaive’s Clavoillon bottling is a perfect example of that affordable luxury.

The Clavoillon vineyard lies just northwest of the town of Puligny Montrachet and is only a stone’s throw away from the Grand Cru vineyards to the west. Leflaive shares the Clavoillon vineyard with only one other producer and Leflaive owns the largest portion of the plot. The large parcel allows Leflaive to produce Clavoillon in greater quantities than most of their other holdings. The increased production means that Clavoillon is generally going to be more readily available on the market than some of their other bottles. The reasonable price and availability make 2014 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon the perfect entry-level Leflaive.

While recently reviewing our upcoming shipments, I was excited to see that we would soon be receiving quite a bit of 2014 Puligny Montrachet from various producers. (Perfect timing with summer hitting full stride!) I wanted to choose one of these wines that perfectly highlights the vintage and region, and the 2014 Leflaive Clavoillon performed head and shoulders above my lofty expectations. While many bottles of Leflaive can be quite “fat” or “round”, this bottle of Clavoillon was surprising for its lack of over extracted fruit. There is just enough oak on the nose to let you know it’s there, but upon the first sip, the oak is all but non-existent. This is an elegant, streamlined Burgundy. There is a striking minerality to this wine that could easily lead a blind taster to believe that he is drinking a Grand Cru Chablis. The fruit is dominated by gorgeous Citrus notes, and the acidity isn’t overbearing, but perfectly refreshing. An intriguing, lighter Leflaive that simultaneously seems to both cause and quench your thirst. I strongly suggest you open this bottle and try it immediately, but pace yourself so that you can continue to taste it over the course of an hour or so. It’s a rollercoaster of a white wine that goes from strength to strength as it opens in the glass.

At the time of this writing, we have roughly five cases of the 2014 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillons available. I can guarantee that they will not last long! If you’re looking to indulge a bit this summer but not break the bank, I highly suggest you grab a few bottles to share with friends and family. A bottle of Leflaive opened at any occasion will surely make for a legendary day!