Barbaresco

wines

A banner wine for Gaja, the 2010 Sori San Lorenzo brings the infinite and ethereal aromas associated with Nebbiolo into startling focus and clarity. Again, like the Sori Tildin, the structure and tannic firmness of the wine will carry the wine forward over the years and decades ahead. It demands much more time until it fully blossoms. I walked through the San Lorenzo vineyard with Gaia Gaja and she showed me some of their recent activity. Every second row is planted with barley that acts as a natural rototiller given its aggressive root system. Borrowing other “New World” ideas, they’ve started compost piles with Californian red worms and are using (with less success, I’m told) wooden tree boxes to repopulate the birds. All of this must seem very odd to the neighbors. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.Just a short while ago, in the midst of one of Italy’s darkest political hours when forming a functioning government seemed like an exercise in futility, someone sent me a Facebook petition proposing Angelo Gaja as a candidate for President of the Republic of Italy. Although Angelo himself would brush it off as jest, that seedling of a (good) idea took the Internet by firestorm. What he has demonstrated over the years, besides from his infectious enthusiasm and keen ability to communicate his thoughts with brilliant clarity and gumption, is a natural ability for leadership. Barbaresco is lucky to have an Angelo Gaja, the Langhe is lucky to have him, and Italy is, too.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2010 Sorì San Lorenzo jumps from the glass with lavender, violets, plums, smoke and licorice, all in a lifted, precise style built on finesse. The tannins are remarkably sweet and polished for such a young wine. The pulsating fruit and sense of structure are reminiscent of the 1999, but here, there is perhaps a little more finesse and slightly more compelling balance.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGAromas of marble, dried cherries and iron, with hints of iodine. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet balanced and refined all the same. This needs the most age of the single-vineyard, 2010 Gaja Nebbiolos. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis muscular red features ample fruit, with a fine quality to the stiff tannins, offering loads of cherry, tar and sandalwood flavors, with excellent length. Give this a few years. Best from 2016 through 2032. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

So perfumed and complex, with tangerines, jasmine, cedar, black truffle and iron. Full-bodied and very structured. Fantastic structure for the vintage. Very Barolo-like in structure. Available in 2023. Give this at least four or five years to soften.James Suckling | 98 JS

Fragrant and refined, this compelling red has aromas of woodland berry, ground pepper, camphor and tilled earth. Full-bodied and structured, the youthfully tense palate features ripe red cherry, pomegranate, star anise and ground nutmeg. Tight, fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity provide support and energy. It needs several more years and shows great aging potential. Drink 2029–2039. Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KOThe combination of the clay-rich soil in the lower part of Vigna Santo Stefano in the Albesani MGA seems to have enhanced the density and the refinement of this Barbaresco. Elegant and restrained with smoky woodland and coffee grounds to the fore, then an amazing wild strawberry, savoury rhubarb and olive-like umami character. The attack is firm, with chewy acidity and velvety tannins. Great mid-palate extraction shows this is intended for the long haul. It doesn’t lack tension either, and will keep going strong for decades.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2019 Barbaresco Albesani Santo Stefano is deep and beautifully resonant in the glass. Bright red fruit, crushed flowers, tobacco, incense and orange peel open first, lending quite a bit of aromatic presence. Another year or two will help the tannins soften. All this needs is a bit more focus to make the leap into the next level.Vinous Media | 92 VMA rich version, this features cherry and raspberry flavors embedded in a fleshy texture. Reveals plum, earth, leather and spice notes as this firms up on the lingering finish. Best from 2025 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2021 Barbaresco Montestefano is one of the very best young wines I have tasted here. Dark, rich and intense, but also light on its feet, the 2021 dazzles from the very first taste. Dark red/blue fruit, lavender, licorice, gravel, dried herbs and menthol open with a bit of coaxing. The Montestefano possesses striking mid-palate depth, compelling inner perfume and mind-blowing balance. I loved it.Vinous Media | 98 VM