Super Tuscans

wines

The 2006 Messorio (Merlot) is off the charts. This extraordinary wine possesses a breathtaking combination of super-ripe fruit that has been achieved with remarkable freshness, vibrancy and clarity. There is superb transparency to the wine’s fruit, along with a sublime finish that lasts forever. Ideally a few years of cellaring are called for, but readers will have a hard time exercising such patience. This profound Messorio from proprietor Cinzia Merli and oenologist Luca D’Attoma left me speechless. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026.Like many estates in Bolgheri, Le Macchiole has some beautiful wines that are coming into the market shortly. I visited the estate at the tail end of the 2006 harvest and already the early buzz in the air was palpable.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPMessorio (a 100% expression of delicious Merlot) is a wine that has already reached elite cult status and for very good reason. The opulence, richness and overall pleasure factor are unbeatable and the wine is sophisticated, elegant and balanced at the same time. The long fade is characterized by vanilla, chocolate, espresso, cherry and blackberry.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2006 is simply a flat-out great Messorio. Today it is the wine's density and structure that are most evident, but with time in the glass the inner perfume, minerality and sheer pedigree begin to emerge. This is a vintage that combines elements of sumptuous ripeness and structure to a degree that is highly unusual for Bolgheri. As such, the 2006 Messorio is best left alone for perhaps as long as another decade. When the wine finally emerges it will be spectacular. Hints of new leather, licorice and crushed rocks linger on the refined, classy finish.Vinous Media | 97 VMFresh herb and black olive aromas evolve into dark fruits and flowers. This is full-bodied, with chewy, polished tannins and lots of new wood, but there's plenty of fruit underneath. Opulent and powerful, verging on blockbuster. An extreme style of Merlot. Best after 2014. 670 cases made, 150 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSSo much olive on the nose, like olive oil. And then I find dark fruits. Flowers too. Full and velvety, wtih beautiful tannins. And a long long finish. It’s a wine that makes you think.James Suckling | 93 JSThis complex, heady red developed a cult following as a merlot with intensity and ageworthy structure. The 2006 is tightly built and floral, with chocolate richness in the finish that gets shut down by its charry, youthful tannins. This needs several years of bottle age to mellow and show its best.Wine & Spirits | 91 W&S

This is a tight and powerful Orma with solid tannins that beautifully frame the fruit in the wine. Full-bodied and focused with intense structure and fruit character. Perhaps the best Orma ever. Give this four or five years to open. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 97 JSA blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Orma opens to a soothing display of ripe fruit with blackberry, candied cherry, spice, white pepper and even a speck of red chili flake. The mouthfeel is round and soft with a pop of sour cherry. The vineyards are planted in soils rich in pebbles and clay with a little sand at 60 meters above sea level. Some 34,000 bottles were produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPFrom 20-year-old vines located between Ornellaia and Sassicaia, Orma’s main wine is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. The fragranced aromas really stand out here, perfumed red and black fruits alongside spicy eucalyptus. Tannins are present and coat the mouth with dense blackcurrant flavours. There’s power and freshness here, and definitely an elegance to the overall feel of the wine, but this is tight and somewhat closed at the moment. One to hold on to for a few years.Decanter | 94 DEC

Orma, Sette Ponti’s sister estate based in Bolgheri, is – like Sette Ponti’s Oreno – Merlot-based, but it’s a different blend in a different place and, in my opinion, reaches greater heights. Spicy, brambly berry aromas with some dusty wood and chocolate notes are followed in the mouth by super-fresh acidity, introducing some ripe black fruits then a stony mid-palate. A fine web of silky tannins supports the fruit, while herbal and balsamic edges bring a sense of freshness and levity to the concentrated fruit. The finish is long, succulent and fresh, with some fresh and dried black fruits accompanied by spice and chocolate. Great balance.Decanter | 96 DECAromas of herbs such as basil and bay leaf with currants follow through to a full body with creamy and round tannins, and lots of coffee bean and walnut undertones. Chewy but not overdone. Velvety texture. Fine at the end. Drinkable but better in three to five years.James Suckling | 96 JSThe 2021 Orma is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Cabernet Franc. Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, it bursts from the glass with bold notes of stewed black plums, boysenberry preserves, and underbrush, followed by hints of cedar chest, tar, and bay leaves. The big, concentrated, full-bodied palate packs a wallop, with bags of expressive black fruits and a grainy texture, finishing with an invigorating mineral lift.The Wine Independent | 96 TWIThe organic 2021 Orma pours from a chunky glass bottle. The blend is 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc (with 18 months in barrique). This wine is heady and opulent with a bouquet that delivers swells of black fruit, plum, spice and floral highlights of lilac or blue flower. These aromas are delivered in waves of varying intensity. This is a proverbial food wine that calls for a dish with a high fat content. The freshness is there, and there is considerable fruit weight to pair across from grilled lamb with mint sauce. Production is 39,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2021 Orma is a rich, heady wine. Succulent dark red plum, spice, new leather, mocha and menthol are nicely laced together. This sumptuous, flamboyant wine offers tons of immediacy and overall appeal.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Made with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, the Tenuta San Guido 2022 Guidalberto gives you a good taste of the same DNA that brings us one of Italy’s greatest wines, Sassicaia, but it’s offered in a more immediate style here (thanks to the addition of the Merlot). This warm vintage opens to medium-dark concentration and very plump aromas that take you immediately to blackberry and blackcurrant sitting out in the sun at your local farmers market. The wine shows a soft and gentle side with a pretty level of elegance transmitted through the fruit freshness and the light oak spice that is discernible here but delivered with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThis red is elegant, despite its firm structure and dense tannins. Black cherry, black currant, plum, tobacco, iron and rosemary flavors hold court, while all the components show balance. The finish is long, with a salty taste. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 94 WSLots of mint with sage and fresh rosemary to the currant and orange character on the nose, as well as some ripe raspberries. The palate is very refined with creamy and crunchy tannins that run the length of the wine. It shows a crunchy and energetic personality. Give it a year or two to come together, but it’s showing brightness for the vintage. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSA blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the 2022 Guidalberto has lovely aromas of ripe wild berry, Mediterranean herb and a whiff of brown exotic spice. It’s surprisingly vibrant for the scorching vintage, featuring black currant, juniper berry, star anise and dried mint set against fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Give it another year or two to fully develop. Drink 2025–2032. Abv: 13.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOGuidalberto used to be great value for money, and even though it’s a bit pricier these days, the quality has also improved dramatically in recent vintages as Tenuta San Guido seeks to remove the idea of Guidalberto as a ‘second wine’ by building a dedicated winemaking facility and adjusting the blend. The 2022 is loaded with herbal and sea breeze scents among bright, tangy berries. In the mouth it is saline and precise, with a succulence to the concentrated plum and black berry core, and a gracefulness to the tannic and acid structures which weave through it. Sapid and incredibly moreish, with a beautifully ripe red berry finish, this really does stand up on its own two feet.Decanter | 93 DEC

Very aromatic, with raspberry, orange peel and floral aromas. Nice transparency. Medium-bodied with fine tannins and a crisp, crunchy finish. Drinkable now, but better from 2026.James Suckling | 93 JSA fresh, expressive red, this also exhibits tension, lending energy to its black currant, cherry, licorice and cedar flavors. Graphite and salty accents add detail on the long, tightly wound finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2033. 15,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS