Nebbiolo Wines

wines

The 2000 Sorì Tildìn is like cashmere on the palate. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and spices flow effortlessly from this beautifully detailed, nuanced wine. The Sorì Tildìn shows attractive freshness and gorgeous balance from start to finish. It is easily one of the finer wines of the vintage.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGAmazing aromas of plums, strawberries, and minerals follow through to a full-bodied palate, with ultraripe tannins and a long, mineral and blackberry aftertaste. Gorgeous. So fresh and structured. Best after 2010. 1,050 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSThe 2000 Sori Tildin is like cashmere on the palate. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and spices flow effortlessly from this beautifully detailed, nuanced wine. The Sori Tildin shows attractive freshness and gorgeous balance from start to finish. It is easily one of the finer wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RP

The 2005 Sorì San Lorenzo is superb. Here the personality of the year is perfectly matched to that of the site. A host of smoke, tar, graphite, incense, licorice and melted road tar are fused together. Powerful and explosive, with enough freshness to drink well for several decades, the 2005 is absolutely magnificent today. Gaja's Sorì San Lorenzo is a wine of real personality and pedigree.Vinous Media | 97 VMVery complex and layered nose, plus notes of pristine fresh leather, dried cherries and rose petals. Spices and savory tarry nuances. The palate has deeply layered tannins that are set like plaster. Really snappy and long, building chocolate and dark-cherry flavors into the finish. Majestic. A vast drinking window: now to 2030.James Suckling | 96 JSGaja’s 2005 Sori San Lorenzo is a dense, dark beauty of sensual, irresistible charm. This richly-textured, expansive wine flows with masses of ripe dark fruit, menthol, licorice and mineral in a sumptuous, full-bodied style. The use of oak is simply masterful here and the wine boasts extraordinary balance. I am not sure how he does it, but Angelo Gaja is easily Italy’s most consistently brilliant producer. For those who can afford it, this is another gem from Gaja. Readers should interpret my drinking windows with a large grain of salt. The 1990 Sor? San Lorenzo is still young, and the 1978 is amazingly fresh, so it is anyone’s guess as to when this wine might be actually “ready.” In the meantime, this wine is sure to provide enormous pleasure to those lucky enough to own it. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPYou cannot not love this wine: layered and intense with extraordinary integrity of fruit, it offers supple flavors of dark fruit, spice, tobacco and chocolate. It's dense, succulent and penetrating with polished tannins and long persistency. The palate becomes coated with opulence and richness: 5% Barbera is added. Drink 2015–2030.Wine Enthusiast | 96 WEVery pretty plum and strawberry aromas follow through to a full body, with ultrafine tannins and a long finish. A reserved, almost delicate style. But with air this gives you loads of luscious and beautiful fruit. Best after 2011. 800 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSGaja has made this single-vineyard wine since 1967. The '05 is as sleek and stunning as a Maserati on the outside, with ferocious power raging deep within. A blend of nebbiolo (95 percent) and barbera, a layer of sweet oak initially masks the fruit. As the wine opens, it becomes more refined, its ripe blackberry flavors and foresty coolness balancing the wood. A luxurious and aristocratic wine, this has the strength to cellar for a decade or more.Wine & Spirits | 94 W&S

Giacosa’s 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is flamboyant, exotically ripe and stunning in its absolute beauty. Bright red cherry fruit, rose petal, violet and mint abound in a spellbinding, utterly thrilling Barbaresco. I have always adored the 2007. Once again, it is pure magic.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGThis will be in the market in 2012. This is full and rich with irresistible silky tannins. This brings more substance and richness than the white label. Lay this down until 2016. 10,000 bottles.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a massive, towering wine of majestic proportions. Everything comes together in the glass; expressive aromatics, striking fruit, powerful yet silky tannins and a long, impeccable finish. This complex, kaleidoscopic Barbaresco is a wine for the ages. The Riserva Asili is a surprisingly powerful wine from this vineyard. Readers will have to wait until 2011, when the wine is released, to taste this utterly profound Barbaresco. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2037.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPBursting with sweet cherry, floral, licorice and spice flavors, this ripe red is expressive, supple, balanced and dense, showing the structure to age and a finish of fig and tobacco notes. Best from 2016 through 2030. 170 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

A banner wine for Gaja, the 2010 Sori San Lorenzo brings the infinite and ethereal aromas associated with Nebbiolo into startling focus and clarity. Again, like the Sori Tildin, the structure and tannic firmness of the wine will carry the wine forward over the years and decades ahead. It demands much more time until it fully blossoms. I walked through the San Lorenzo vineyard with Gaia Gaja and she showed me some of their recent activity. Every second row is planted with barley that acts as a natural rototiller given its aggressive root system. Borrowing other “New World” ideas, they’ve started compost piles with Californian red worms and are using (with less success, I’m told) wooden tree boxes to repopulate the birds. All of this must seem very odd to the neighbors. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.Just a short while ago, in the midst of one of Italy’s darkest political hours when forming a functioning government seemed like an exercise in futility, someone sent me a Facebook petition proposing Angelo Gaja as a candidate for President of the Republic of Italy. Although Angelo himself would brush it off as jest, that seedling of a (good) idea took the Internet by firestorm. What he has demonstrated over the years, besides from his infectious enthusiasm and keen ability to communicate his thoughts with brilliant clarity and gumption, is a natural ability for leadership. Barbaresco is lucky to have an Angelo Gaja, the Langhe is lucky to have him, and Italy is, too.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2010 Sorì San Lorenzo jumps from the glass with lavender, violets, plums, smoke and licorice, all in a lifted, precise style built on finesse. The tannins are remarkably sweet and polished for such a young wine. The pulsating fruit and sense of structure are reminiscent of the 1999, but here, there is perhaps a little more finesse and slightly more compelling balance.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGAromas of marble, dried cherries and iron, with hints of iodine. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet balanced and refined all the same. This needs the most age of the single-vineyard, 2010 Gaja Nebbiolos. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis muscular red features ample fruit, with a fine quality to the stiff tannins, offering loads of cherry, tar and sandalwood flavors, with excellent length. Give this a few years. Best from 2016 through 2032. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Ovello is the northernmost vineyard in the village of Barbaresco. The calcareous marl soil typical of the region is enriched here with a bit more clay content. Alongside the the cooler microclimate, it gives a youthful character to the wines. Notes of Parma violets, dried cherry, raspberry jam, tar and liquorice are supported by an assertive structure of firm, muscular tannins with a dusty texture and crisp acidity. Rather tight on the finish, yet good with food. Drinking Window 2021 - 2038.Decanter | 94 DECPlenty of berries, bark and dried flowers on the nose and palate. Medium to full body, creamy and rather chewy tannins and a fresh finish. Drinkable now, but needs two or three years to soften and open up. Try after 2024.James Suckling | 93 JSA mellow style, this red features macerated cherry and strawberry flavors, along with accents of licorice, soy and tar. This is dense, yet fits everything into a slim profile. Firm, tannic finish. Best from 2024 through 2038. 375 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Combining power, intensity, class and great fruit, Produttori’s 2019 Montestefano Riserva is a phenomenal wine and a quintessential expression of this fantastic cru. It opens with heady aromas of new leather, Alpine herb, pressed rose, ripe dark-skinned berry and forest floor. It has the most Barolo-like structure of all the firm’s crus, delivering ripe Morello cherry, succulent raspberry, licorice and tobacco alongside a network of firm tannins that are more reminiscent of Serralunga than Barbaresco. A magnificent wine, with incredible aging potential. Drink 2031–2049. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 99 KOThe 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.Vinous Media | 95 VM