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1991 Comte de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes

Ripe and generous, shaded with nicely integrated, spicy oak, this great wine reveals many extra dimensions and oozes with anise, currant and blackberry flavors that go on and on, seemingly forever.--Red Burgundy vertical. 916 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSI have had this wine many times and it has always been one of my favorite ’91s. Unfortunately, a number of bottles tasted within the last 3 years were already on the decline, having lost that wonderful velvety quality that I once so much admired. While not unpleasant, it’s clear that these bottles are not what they should be as there is a toastiness that comes up on the finish and renders it ever so slightly bitter along with a bit of unresolved structure. However, a bottle tasted in Los Angeles that was air freighted from the Domaine only 3 weeks prior was simply outstanding with a wonderful nose of exotic spices and subtle yet seductive game and smoky hints followed by rich, warm and pure flavors of superb depth and length with plenty of finishing velvet. And the most recent bottle that was tasted in France was also outstanding though as my comments suggest, I have encountered significant bottle variation with scores ranging from 87 to 94.Burghound | 94 BHTasted alongside Frédéric Mugnier’s 1991 Musigny, this too has an excellent colour with real depth at the heart. There are some extractive tannins but with a very considerable volume of deep and dark red fruit. Then both tannins and acidity. Still a baby. With time in the glass the fruit expanded further than was the case for Mugnier’s wine, without quite throwing off the firmer nature of the structural aspects.Jasper Morris | 94 JMWealthy collectors should not miss the opportunity to see whether the 1991 equals or surpasses the 1990 Musigny-Vieilles Vignes made at the Comte de Vogue. The saturated, dense purple color is magnificent. The big, yet unformed bouquet of framboise, cassis, vanillin, and minerals suggests the wine is loaded. It is. Powerful, rich, concentrated, and marvelously clean and pure, this irrefutably impressively endowed, large-scaled red burgundy exhibits a Medoc-like austerity and structure, as well as a squeaky clean, international style. It will be interesting to see what develops over the next 15-20 years. Do not drink it before the turn of the century; it should last an uncommonly long time for modern day burgundy. Very impressive!Robert Parker | 93 RPThe last bottle I tasted of the 1991 Musigny “Vieilles Vignes” from the Comte de Vogüé was quite a bit more roasted and almost malty in personality than this bottle, and I am not sure if my last bottle was not entirely pristine, or if the wine is just starting to emerge from an extended period of adolescence and is offering more precision and complexity at age twenty-four than it did at age twenty. In any case, this bottle was really quite lovely, albeit, still crafted in the more extracted style that was prevalent at the domaine in this era, as it offers up a deep and complex nose of red and black cherries, a touch of blood orange, woodsmoke, gamebird, lovely herb tones, coffee, soil tones and smoky new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with fine complexity and soil signature, melting tannins, sound acids and excellent length and grip on the fairly powerful, but well-balanced finish. This is so much more enjoyable than the last few bottles of this wine that I tasted that I have hopes it is really starting to blossom and will prove to be far better than I initially anticipated. (Drink between 2015 - 2045)John Gilman | 93 JG

96
WS
As low as $989.00
2010 Joseph Roty Charmes Chambertin Tres VV

Full, deep red. Sexy scents of black raspberry, licorice, violet and minerals, plus torrefaction notes of espresso and mocha. More tightly wound on the palate than the young 2012; less horizontal and broad at this stage but wonderfully thick, fine-grained, savory and precise, with its multidimensional flavors of dark fruits, spices, minerals and flowers given an added element of complexity by savory soil tones. Manages to be both velvety and light on its feet, and ultimately suppler than the ’12. This exceptional young grand cru finishes with utterly mellow, perfect integrated tannins, explosive rising length and penetrating salty minerality. In short, a great expression of soil and a classic example of its vintage. (13.7% alcohol; 3.34 pH; 20 h/h)Vinous Media | 96 VMThere is just enough wood to be visible but it should be absorbed in short order. Interestingly, the aromatic profile is relatively similar to that of the Griotte, though this has significantly more depth and concentration to the full-bodied, powerful and explosive flavors that benefit greatly from the exceptional depth of material before culminating in a massively long and impeccably well-balanced finish. Sometimes the Roty Charmes displays its wood for years but the 2010 version appears as though it will eat it sooner than usual. In short, this is a stunner of a wine that clearly outclasses its two grands crus stable mates so if you can find it buy it.Burghound | 95 BH

96
VM
As low as $729.00
2011 Claude Dugat Charmes Chambertin

The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin is pure pleasure. Black cherries, plums, cloves, violets and new leather are all woven together in a fabric of notable class. Here it is the wine’s extraordinary textural finesse and overall harmony that take over all of the senses. There is so much to like here, including the wine’s generous, inviting personality. The Charmes has really come on strong over the last year.Vinous Media | 95 VMAn ultra-fresh, cool and equally pure nose features a plethora of red berry scents along with notes of earth, spice, underbrush and a floral element that adds aromatic lift. Not surprisingly, the ripe broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer and more powerful with plenty of punch before culminating in a focused, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This will need at least a decade to arrive at its majority but it should be excellent when it does so.Burghound | 93 BHMoving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

95
VM
As low as $599.00
2020 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine.Decanter | 97 DECChoosing a favorite among the last three grand crus in the Domaine Fèvre lineup is simply impossible in 2020. The les Clos is yet another stunning young wine, offering up a refined and complex bouquet of pear, tart orange, fresh lime, flinty, chalky minerality, citrus peel, dried flowers and a nice touch of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and seamlessly balanced, with a beautiful harness of acidity, a great core of fruit and a very long, very minerally and oh, so complex young finish. A great wine by any measure! (Drink between 2032 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre’s immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it’s full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It’s the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lemon rind, green apple, quinine and acacia blossom scents that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is again excellent volume and concentration to the powerful and muscular flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively complex and hugely long finish. This is classic Les Clos in that it manages to be at once big and overtly powerful while remaining refined and classy. This is, in a word, stunning.Burghound | 96 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 10 parcels scattered mainly over the top of the hill. It has a well-defined, crisp and (for the vintage) quite austere nose due to the location higher up the slope. The fresh palate is nicely detailed with lime and lemon thyme and good salinity. Quite strict on the mineral-driven finish. Good potential, but it will need time.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis lemon- and green apple–infused white stays lean, racy and long, combining power and intensity. On the austere side today, with a mineral underpinning and chalky finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

97
JG
As low as $155.00
2021 Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos

This white is both austere and intense, exuding floral, lemon, mineral and pastry aromas and flavors matched to a lean, bracing frame. The flavors persist, picking up lanolin, rosemary and a chalky feel on the long finish. Best from 2025 through 2032. 46 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA touch of wood toast makes itself known on the otherwise similar if even more floral-suffused nose. The rich, powerful and imposingly concentrated larger-scaled flavors brim with both sappy dry extract and minerality on the massively persistent, balanced and agreeably dry finale. I generally don’t find a great deal of qualitative difference between the Hospices and the regular cuvée but in 2021 the Hospices has just bit more overall depth, at least at this early juncture.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices feels more closed than the regular cuvée, but there’s just a bit of flintiness developing with aeration in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, very harmonious and poised, though I am seeking a little more grip on the finish. Maybe this year, I might err more towards the regular cuvée.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA tiny bit more colour than Les Clos with a little bit more fruit weight but less elegance than the classical bottling. Some perfume here, richer and seemingly riper with some suggestion of peaches, followed by salinity. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

97
DEC
As low as $109.00
2022 Domaine Berthelemot Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

No written review provided | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

97
DEC
As low as $195.00
2022 Domaine Rene et Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Notes of anise and mint, with demure hints of fruit, yet this is a wine of texture, detail and drive, demanding time. Very powerful and expansive, with a stony, phenolic drag across a prodigiously long finish. Wonderful performance. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSDauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. This has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years’ ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses unwinds in the glass with aromas of oyster shell, orange blossom, warm stones and subtle hints of citrus oil—this cuvée is almost always more about rocks than fruit. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and electric, it’s racy and tensile, with a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru will be very seductive on the nose, discrete at first, unfurling with yellow plum, flint, touches of oyster shell and spice box. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity, and hints of praline and orchard fruit. Completely harmonious with an irresistible finish, so much so that I cannot resist swallowing when I’m "on duty." Chablis firing on all cylinders - this is a long-term prospect.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe name of the vineyard is a version Pierreuses, referencing the huge blocks of stone underneath a reasonable marly topsoil. The 2022 displays a really complex nose, a bit of sun on the stones, the cailloux chauds of the amphitheatre in which Vincent Dauvissat’s holding sits. Then follows a massive development of fruit on the palate too. There is really a huge volume of fruit at the back, with a little iodine touch throughout. Makes one salivate! Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMMore elegant and cooler aromas include those of essence of apple, citrus zest, iodine and shellfish nuances. The rich, generously proportioned and gorgeously textured flavors are at once powerful yet refined; indeed there is a Zen-like character to the sneaky long, impeccably well-balanced and wonderfully harmonious finale. Marvelous and a wine that should age effortlessly over the next 12 to 15 years.Burghound | 93-96 BH

95-97
VM
As low as $449.00
2022 Domaine Long-Depaquit (Albert Bichot) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Quite subtle and restrained on both nose and palate. Plenty of warmth of fruit, but as yet quite restrained. Lovely, salty, zesty notes promise a lot in the future. Ripe peach fruit characters develop with a few minutes in the glass. This will be a great example of Les Clos once in bottle. Tank sample.Decanter | 95 DECQuietly powerful, with subtle fruit flavors, a full body (for Chablis) and layers of fruit, minerals and toast that build on the palate and linger in the finish. Grown on a south-facing slope in clay-based but stony soil. 30% was barrel-fermented, and it shows an opulent, rich expression underlain by a minerally, saline character. Drinkable now, but will develop much more complexity with time. From organically grown grapes. Best from 2029.James Suckling | 94 JSA rich style, exhibiting peach and canteloupe flavors, with a hint of vanilla. Balanced and refreshing, this firms up, with a tactile sensation on the extended finish. Needs time to fully integrate. Best from 2026 through 2032. 1,812 cases made, 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSBright full lemon colour with greener notes behind. Floral though with more latent power than that suggests. There is no doubting the intensity of white fruit across the palate, lemons and apples joining the white fruit at the finish, then a more headily perfumed note at the very end, muscat and passion fruit, which suggests that it was time to pick these grapes. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMGenerous wood and vanilla nuances wood frame cool and exuberantly fresh aromas of citrus, apple and ocean brine. There is borderline painful intensity to the imposing and tautly muscular larger-scaled flavors that retain a lovely sense of refinement on the powerful, balanced, bone-dry and built-to-age finale. As is usually the case with this wine, it’s going to require at least a few years of patience to develop better depth and better integrate what at this point is a borderline annoying level of wood.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is two-thirds aged in stainless steel and the remainder in wooden barrel for nine months, plus five months, whereby the entire blend is raised in vat. The nose has good intensity: green apple and light kiwi fruit, leesy at the moment but well defined. The palate is taut on the entry with fine depth, well-judged acidity, and smooth in texture with hints of Conference pear mixed with quite spicy peppery notes towards the finish. Good potential.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

95
DEC
As low as $105.00
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

Very appealing, with a fine balance of richness and ripeness of fruit, combined with white pepper, saline minerals and plenty of freshening acidity. A very classy example.Decanter | 95 DEC

95
DEC
As low as $79.99
2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s and 1950s.Decanter | 95 DECThis is aromatically quite similar to the Côte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn’t quite have the precision of Fevre’s best cuvées at the moment.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

95-98
JM
As low as $179.00
2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre’s Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat’s plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.Decanter | 96 DECA toasty nose features notes of smoky grilled shellfish, pear and algae. The dense and equally serious larger-scaled flavors don’t have quite the same power yet they are clearly more refined on the markedly bitter citrus zest finish that displays outstanding length. This is exceptionally classy and while it too could use more depth, that is all but assured if given a chance.Burghound | 92-95 BHSuch a fresh lime infused colour. The bouquet shows the soft creamy riches that you can find here in Les Preuses. There is plenty of bulk but the hectare plot which drops down into Vaudésir gives the mineral tension. A little lime and lemon coats the tongue at the finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is not unlike the Valmur on the nose: backward and a little sultry in style, with faint touches of crustacea coming through. The palate is more generous with orchard fruit, hints of apricot and wild peach, and fine acidity. It is very harmonious but without quite the same complexity as the Valmur on the finish. Still, this should give many years of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

96
DEC
As low as $119.00
2022 Jean Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Grenouilles

The 2022 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru has a more low-key nose than the impressive 2021, well-defined with crushed limestone, Granny Smiths and peach skin aromas. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine bead of acidity counterbalancing the richness. Tensile, quite saline, building gradually towards a very cohesive finish. Refined and sophisticated.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

95
DEC
As low as $99.99

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