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The awesome 1997 Sori Tilden (10,000 bottles produced) is a candidate for perfection. The saturated purple color is followed by a dense, full-bodied wine possessing extraordinary vibrancy for such a heavyweight, muscular Nebbiolo. It offers a super-sweet entry, a boatload of glycerin, and notes of earth, licorice, cedar, blackberry and cherry liqueur, and a touch of blueberries. Extremely full, gorgeously pure, with a seamless texture, this spectacular 1997 will enjoy three decades of cellaring.A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch.Robert Parker | 99 RPDark ruby red. Loads of porcini aromas and some raisin and spices. Then turns to flowers. Full-bodied, superconcentrated and supertannic. This is such a baby, but there's loads of everything here. From berry, vanilla to raspberry and blackberry. A wine to age for a very long time. Even better than I remember.--1997 Italian blind retrospective. Best after 2012. 800 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSFull ruby. Profound yet rather reticent nose hints at blackberry and violet; less roasted than the Costa Russi and more precise. Lush, thick and large-scaled, with great penetrating sweetness. Voluptuous and mouthfilling yet sharply delineated at the same time. Amazingly thick, seamless Barbaresco, finishing with lush tannins and uncanny persistence. This too has filled out and harmonized since the first time I tasted it.Vinous Media | 95+ VM

The 2002 Monfortino is one of the most iconic Conterno wines in recent memory for the reasons described above. Interestingly, the additional year in cask has made the 2002 much more approachable in its youth than most other vintages, so opening a bottle at this stage is not as crazy as it might seem on paper. The 2002 impresses for its depth, concentration and complexity. Tonight, it is superb. Tasted from magnum.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGConterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052.Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThis is incredibly fresh, vibrant and expressive, exhibiting complex aromas of red fruits, tar and licorice, with strawberry, sweet tobacco and mineral flavors. Intense and elegant at once, with finesse and structure, ending with a saline and mineral aftertaste. Try it in five years. Best from 2014 through 2040. 1,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 98 WSWhat a wine. In a year where the rainfall was more than two times the norm Giacomo really impresses. This wine is an ever evolving (even in the glass!) experience. On the nose it has fresh mint and licorice then a wave of roses, berries, and cherries. On the palate there is more of the same, tons of berries, licorice and roses. Incredibly full and ultra-velvety. This is a dense wine that does not lack depth and focus. Breathtaking balance and a incredible finish that is measured in minutes not seconds. Harmonious.James Suckling | 97 JS

Licorice, tar, menthol, spices and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that flow from the 2008 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate. This dramatic, large-scaled Barolo impresses for its towering depth, complexity and sheer pedigree. Tar, menthol, licorice and spices wrap around the fleshy, deep finish. The Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate is considerably more powerful than the silkier Gavarini, but both wines represent the height of finesse in Nebbiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98+ RPOne of the truly epic, reference-point wines of the year, the 2008 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè lifts from the glass with the classic scents of Ginestra. Pine, menthol, smoke, anise, new leather and violets are just the prelude as the 2008 opens up. Dark, mysterious and totally seductive, the 2008 is simply magnificent. Grasso is one of the hottest growers in Piedmont today. This is a great example of the level of quality that is the norm at this small, family-run estate.Vinous Media | 98 VMThis is very minerally and stoney with hints of volcanic salt. Intense flavors. Full and juicy with a long finish. Gorgeous. Better in 2014.James Suckling | 95 JSSo graceful and harmonious, yet well-structured, with a lush texture covering the acidity and tannins. That provides the ideal foil for this red’s flavors of cherry, plum, spice and tobacco. Finishes long, with freshness and an accent of mineral. Best from 2014 through 2027. 1,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Dense, intense chocolate and damson colour. On the nose things are still very closed despite its age. Although the palate is heading to the splitting point where the tertiary aromatics and flavours are making their appearance, though they’re held back by the primary vibrant blackberry fruits and a seam of Sassicaia freshness, with a bite of liquorice root. After a moment in the glass, the nose starts to open. Undergrowth notes are most clear at first, followed by black truffles. This is slowly opening up, taking time and patience. A clearly great vintage, and one that has many years ahead of it.Decanter | 98 DECThis is the best young Sassicaia in years. It's the new 1988 -- which was great, sometimes better than the legendary 1985. What incredible aromas here with blueberries, spices, licorice, plums. Graphite too. Subtle and complex. Full and silky with a beautiful texture of fine tannins and an ultra-fine finish. So beautiful now but will be much better in 2015. Owner Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta says that Sassicaia is always great in years that end with 8: 1958, 1968, 1978, 1988, 1998, and 2008.James Suckling | 97 JSThe 2008 Bolgheri Sassicaia is a wine without a winemaker. The last vintage made by Giacomo Tachis was 2007 and incoming enologist Graziana Grassini claims 2009 as her first vintage. Within the context of this retrospective, the 2008 vintage opens a new chapter, because it is the first wine to show evident tertiary definition and complexity. In fact, the wine performs beautifully with an exalted performance and ethereal aromas. They include cassis, wild berry, crushed mineral, licorice, petrol and grilled herb. This wine is really coming together now and is entering a very exciting moment in its drinking life. It boasts finesse, elegance and grace. Yet, it also shows unmistakable richness and structure that gives the wine an enormous presence in terms of mouthfeel. This was one of the top highlights of the retrospective.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPRecently implemented winemaker and cellar changes make this one of the best Sassicaias ever. This Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc blend delivers thick concentration and sun-kissed aromas of black fruit, prune, dried bay leaf, black olive and tobacco. The thick, fertile soils that characterize the magical strip of coastal Tuscany at Bol-gheri help shape amazing richness and intensity.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can afford to wait will be treated to a sublime wine once this settles down in bottle. Muscular, firm tannins frame the exquisite finish in this dark, implosive Sassicaia. The 2008 Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 24 months in French oak barrels.Vinous Media | 96 VMRefined and elegant, this is right in step with the reserve of the vintage. Blackberry, plum, cassis and mineral flavors play out with subtle oak spice notes on the finish, where this flexes some muscle. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014 through 2025. 9,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe original Bolgheri wine estate, first planted to Bordelais varieties by Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta in the 1940s, this vineyard produced a rich 2008 with dark, earthy power. The youthful tannins are edgy and angular, balanced between black peppercorn spice and resonant, mushroom tones. Built to cellar, this should begin to show its best around ten years from the vintage, and age well beyond that time. Kobrand, Purchase, NYWine and Spirits | 93 W&S

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is one of my favorite recent vintages. It is the product of an exceptionally long and cool growing year marked by a highly unusual cold snap at the very end of the season. Those conditions yielded a Monfortino that is pure silkiness and sensuality, with striking aromatic presence and exceptional balance. There is an exoticism to the 2008 that is impossible to miss, while the impression is of tannins that are virtually non-existent. The 2008 was such a complete wine right from the outset that Roberto Conterno decided to bottle it with six years in cask as opposed to the more typical seven.Vinous Media | 99 VMThis is one of the most balanced and harmonious Monfortinos that I ever tasted. Aromas of dried rose petals and oranges. It’s full-bodied yet compacted and tight. Tannins are perfectly managed. It makes you want to drink it now with its balance and finesse. All in harmony. This is from one of the latest harvests ever - started October 29. So fabulous and so perfect now. Why wait? But will age for decades.James Suckling | 99 JSMenthol, earth, underbrush and tobacco flavors lead off in this monolithic red, with submerged sweet fruit. An intense array of mineral details emerge, persisting through the long aftertaste. Fresh and balanced, with a long life ahead. One of the wines of the vintage. Best from 2018 through 2035. 650 cases made.Wine Spectator | 97 WSThe 2008 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is pure excitement. The bouquet alone is alluring, but then the wine begins to open up on the palate, revealing extraordinary depth. An explosion of fruit follows as dark berries, mint, roses, incense and tar flesh out in all directions. Huge, powerful tannins frame an extraordinary finish. This is going to be a thrilling Monfortino to follow over the coming years and decades. Anticipated maturity: 2028-2048.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96-98 RP

This supremely elegant and age-worthy Sassicaia opens with an intense bouquet of black cherry, Mediterranean herbs, blue flower, cedar and leather aromas. Powerful but graceful, the palate delivers a vibrant core of black cherry accented with white pepper, mineral and balsamic notes alongside youthful but polished tannins and vibrant acidity. It’s not as exuberant as some of its counterparts, but it may outlive all the other Bolgheri 2010s. Drink 2018–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEThe 2010 Sassicaia is just beginning to show the first signs of aromatic development. Sweet tobacco, mint, pine, dried cherries and licorice open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. The 2010 remains a wine of striking precision and nuance, but it also has an element of classical austerity that is especially apparent today. Readers should be in no rush to drink the 2010.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGSilky rich in colour, these wines speak of careful extraction, nothing impulsive or overdone. At six years it is just tipping over from its tight expression of youth to more open aromatics. This has a hauntingly exotic but restrained feel, with beautiful notes of leather, woodsmoke, undergrowth, still full of heady autumnal fruit. I am crunching through October leaves, with the promise of spring and of rising sage and rosemary. The lightness that comes in on the finish is striking, and yet with a persistency that hints at hidden power. Still many years ahead of it. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc.Decanter | 96 DECCedar, sandalwood and spice notes lead off, with cherry, currant and rhubarb flavors underneath. Linear in profile, with a firm base of tight-grained tannins, this lingers beautifully on the finish. Persistent from beginning to end, this just needs time to expand. Best from 2016 through 2027. 3,050 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSThe 2010 Sassicaia was just released and it’s an outstanding bottle. I think that people are going to love this newest Sass. The red is very aromatic with currant, dried berry, cocoa bean, and hints of wood. It’s full-bodied, with intense yet very polished tannins and a long finish. It’s very refined and beautiful with a tangy finish. The Cabernet Franc comes through here at the finish. Lively. Hard not to drink now.James Suckling | 94 JSThis vintage of Sassicaia is unabashedly green, shooting like an arrow of youthful vigor through all the succulent fruit. That frisky tartness will convert to complexity as the wine ages. Meanwhile, there’s plenty of satisfaction in the wine right now, in its graceful weave of satin textures, cool sour cherry fruit, floral scents and the flash of oak. There’s a reason Sassacaia is the benchmark against which all other Tuscan plantings of Cabernet Cauvignon are measured, as it presents those varieties in a distinctive, age-worthy and deeply Tuscan way.Wine & Spirits | 93 W&SI am perplexed by how the 2010 Bolgheri Sassicaia is performing at this moment. The wine has evolved quickly since the last time I tasted it a mere three years ago. At that time, I gave it 96 points and praised its extreme purity and pedigree. No doubt the wine still offers those qualities, but it also shows quickly developing notes of prune, jammy fruit and cherry liqueur that have abruptly moved to the front. It has consequently shifted the wine’s center of gravity in terms of its delicate equilibrium and balance. In fact, it’s almost too much of a good thing. The mouthfeel is chewy and succulent, and the bouquet is broad and flat. Now that the 2010 Bolgheri Sassicaia has completed this initial phase of its evolution, it seems stuck in a proverbial soft spot. I have shortened its suggested drinking window. There is a pungent point of volatility that is contributing to the wine’s quick decline.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

How many dinners anywhere start with a wine on a level with the 2010 Ornellaia? I imagine not many. But that’s exactly the way we get going. Super-expressive aromatics soar out of the glass as the 2010 shows off its personality. Sweet herbs, tobacco, licorice, mocha and tar wrap around a core of intense dark fruit. Racy, powerful and majestic, the 2010 is a total stunner.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGPoured from the special anniversary bottle, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a truly outstanding wine that leaves a lasting memory for those who are lucky enough to enjoy it. What stands out is the absolutely seamless-seamless-seamless (yes, it’s worth repeating three times) integration of its many moving parts. The wine magically transitions from cherry, spice, chocolate and espresso in one melodic and continuous loop. It exudes balance and elegance over long, delicious minutes. It is profoundly impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Of all the grapevines planted on the Ornellaia estate, the 2010 vintage showed best results with Merlot, says Leonardo Raspini. Because the harvest was later than usual, the early-ripening grape enjoyed a slow and steady evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2010 Ornellaia celebrates the wine’s 25th anniversary, and it could not have been a more spectacular vintage. It opens with aromas of crushed blue flowers, black berries, pipe tobacco and thyme that give way to an elegant, structured and polished palate. It delivers intense blackberry flavors layered with white pepper, Mediterranean herbs, mineral and mocha brightened by fresh acidity alongside smooth, velvety tannins. This will age and develop for decades. Drink 2016–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA wine with a wonderful depth of berry, chocolate and hazelnut character. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a round, delicious finish. Fruit-forward and exuberant: more in-your-face fruit to this wine than in many past vintages. Enticing all the same. This comes in a special bottle commemorating the 25th anniversary of the wine coming onto the market. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSA muscular, impenetrable red, with tightly wound tannins guiding the black cherry, plum, herb, soy and oak spice flavors. Monolithic today, this needs time to find equilibrium. Best from 2016 through 2032. 2,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

One of Italy’s most iconic bottlings, the 2012 Sassicaia is drop-dead gorgeous. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc, it boasts sensations of blue flowers, cedar, juicy red currants, ripe raspberries, white pepper and a balsamic note. Structured, radiant and loaded with finesse, it delivers everything you’d expect from a world-class wine and more. Drink 2018–2032.Wine Enthusiast | 99 WELots of lavender, minerals and black currants on the nose. Turns to blackberries. Full body, ultra-refined tannins and an exquisite finish. This is all about delicacy, finesse and grace. Yet there is a solid core of ripe tannins giving it backbone and outstanding form. Just opening now. Very pretty.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2012 Sassicaia is dark and immediate, with gorgeous up-front richness, density and power. Black cherry jam, cloves and new leather are some of the many signatures that take shape in the glass. The 2012 is an unusually deep, concentrated Sassicaia that is going to need time in bottle to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors. Today, it is a bit monolithic, so readers need to be patient.Vinous Media | 94+ VMThe summer of 2012 in Bolgheri was long and hot, but the cooler evening temperature allowed Sassicaia to pull in a wine that shows plenty of ripeness while retaining vibrancy and freshness. A blend of cabernet sauvignon with 15 percent cabernet franc, it shows a quiet confidence in the way it melds flavors of black currant and red raspberry with fresh thyme, toasted nuts and the black spice it picked up from two years in French oak barrels. The texture is velvety, balanced by a streak of graphite and finely etched tannins robust enough to take on a seared steak.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 94 W&SA rich and intense style, this exhibits flavors of vanilla, toast and black cherry wrapped in stern tannins. A bit gruff overall, showing just a hint of the elegance and finesse on the lengthy finish. Needs some time. Best from 2019 through 2032. 17,000 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSFrom an early-ripening vintage, the 2012 Bolgheri Sassicaia shows bold lines and thick color concentration. It does exhibit a classic Sassicaia bouquet, but it does so minus that delicate floral embroidery that comes forth with such delight in 2013. This wine shows a harder, more determined edge. It is less remarkable overall, considering the amazing heights achieved in other vintages. It also reveals thin to medium texture. This Sassicaia roars in terms of bouquet, but offers more of a whimper in terms of mouthfeel. All the elements are there, but they are delivered in a more undertone and one-dimensional manner. It will probably flesh out further with more bottle age, but that leanness is just part of the 2012 vintage.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPStructure and shoulders are a little more obvious here, the colour deepens and widens, and the power is evident right from the first nose. A powerful tannic structure holds the fruit, you can feel the grip and it is clear that even at this age it’s barely out of the starting block. It takes a few minutes to soften and open, then the liquorice, chocolate and balsamic notes come through, balancing out and deepening the tight spiced fruits.Decanter | 92 DEC

I love the meatiness to this wine, but also the purity of fruit; think charcuterie, prosciutto, bay leaf, capsicum, blueberries, blackcurrants and crushed stones. You just can’t get over the way this manages to deliver a powerful, muscular package with stunning finesse and poise. The tapestry of intricate texture and detail is wrought in a flashy but sincere and heartwarming style. The balance takes your breath away. Best ever from here. Impossible to resist now, but better from 2025. James Suckling | 98 JSSun baked earth, mature black plum, fragrant blue flower and leather aromas mingle with balsamic whiffs of camphor on this full-bodied, delicious red. Made with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese, the creamy palate is earthy and full of flavor, boasting juicy blackberry, raspberry, dried mint, cocoa and licorice. Taut, velvety tannins provide plenty of support and finesse. Drink through 2035. Kerin O’Keefe | 98 KOSunbaked earth, mature black-plum, fragrant blue-flower and leather aromas mingle with balsamic whiffs of camphor on this full-bodied, delicious red. Made with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese, the creamy palate is earthy and full of flavor, boasting juicy blackberry, raspberry, dried mint, cocoa and licorice. Taut velvety tannins provide plenty of support and finesse. Drink through 2035.Wine Enthusiast | 98 WEThe 2015 Sammarco (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese) shines the brightest spotlight onto the Cabernet Sauvignon element, and you can immediately make out the distinctive sharpness and structure of that variety. The bouquet offers notes of black fruit, toasted spice and grilled herb, along with wild flower, terracotta and tilled earth. There is some spice on the close, and the tannins do leave their mark with youthful astringency. Give the wine some time in the cellar, and one day it will be fantastic with a tagliatelle and porcini.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is dense and muscular, revealing a tightly wound matrix of black cherry, blackberry, iron, earth and tobacco flavors. Balsamic elements of wild juniper and rosemary emerge as this extends on the finish. Though gripping, this is also very pure, fresh and balanced. Needs time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2036. 2,400 cases made, 300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2015 Sammarco is a wine of exquisite and total finesse. Understated and nuanced, as few wines are in 2015, Sammarco is sublime. Wild flowers, cedar, spice, leather and mint give the 2015 striking aromatic dimension. On the palate, the 2015 is subtle and classy. In 2015, the Merlot crop was a bit higher than normal as newer plantings entered production, and that is reflected in the blend here as well. Because of that, the 2015 is an unusually open, forthcoming Sammarco. In fact, I can’t remember tasting a young Sammarco with this much early appeal. I can’t wait to see how it ages. The 2015 is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Sangiovese, with the Cabernet and Merlot aged in concrete and tonneaux, and the Sangiovese exclusively in cask.Vinous Media | 94 VMWild nose, spicy with gamey notes, summer fruit and plums. Delicious with a juicy intensity, very polished, ripe and charming.Decanter | 92 DEC

A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits that make an appearance just before a mix of brisk acids and tannins creates a more tactile and youthfully clenching expression toward the finale. This leaves the palate aching under the 2016’s structural heft, yet with plenty of primary concentration to balance, as wild savory herbs and earthy mineral tones linger for up to a minute. The potential here is off the charts, but readers will need to be very patient. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a cru selection of old vines that refines for 48 months in large French oak barrels of 33–52 hectoliters.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe estate’s oldest plot, Vigna Paganelli is a 12-hectare vineyard planted in 1964. It boasts a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones which are used for newer plantings. Spiced plum, cured leather and a roll-call of marjoram, tarragon and basil beckon generously. Though hefty in size, this carries its girth with charming ease. There is a richness and sweetness to the fruit, while ripe, granular tannins provide a framework. A mineral edge emerges underneath all the layers. It will be hard to resist young, but I suspect intricate details will become more apparent in time. Drinking Window 2023 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECThis is the top-shelf wine from Il Poggione, and it's a must-have bottle for those who collect wines from this celebrated estate. From an icon vintage, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a beauty. It stands at the intersection of intensity, elegance and power. The fruit is shapely and dense with plenty of blackberry and black cherry, and you also get savory touches of campfire ash, tar, licorice, ferrous earth and balsam herb. Honestly, you get it all, including that distinctive Brunello power and abundance that is not easily achieved with such careful balance. The finish is structured, fresh and long, and with more time in the glass, the leathery or savory aromas become more pronounced (as does the alcohol). Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA beam of pure cherry permeates this sleek, elegant red, shaded by floral, mineral, wild herb and orange zest accents. Well-delineated and long, this has the balance, grip and intensity for a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 3,300 cases made, 750 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSCedar, forest floor and new leather aromas come to the forefront along with violet and dried botanical herbs. Full-bodied and enveloping, the savory palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe freshness and depth are impressive, with floral, dark-berry and cherry character that follows through to a full body with chewy tannins that are polished and solid. Flavorful at the end. Needs time to soften. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 94 JS