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A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits that make an appearance just before a mix of brisk acids and tannins creates a more tactile and youthfully clenching expression toward the finale. This leaves the palate aching under the 2016’s structural heft, yet with plenty of primary concentration to balance, as wild savory herbs and earthy mineral tones linger for up to a minute. The potential here is off the charts, but readers will need to be very patient. The Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a cru selection of old vines that refines for 48 months in large French oak barrels of 33–52 hectoliters.Vinous Media | 98 VMThe estate’s oldest plot, Vigna Paganelli is a 12-hectare vineyard planted in 1964. It boasts a rich diversity of old Sangiovese clones which are used for newer plantings. Spiced plum, cured leather and a roll-call of marjoram, tarragon and basil beckon generously. Though hefty in size, this carries its girth with charming ease. There is a richness and sweetness to the fruit, while ripe, granular tannins provide a framework. A mineral edge emerges underneath all the layers. It will be hard to resist young, but I suspect intricate details will become more apparent in time. Drinking Window 2023 - 2040.Decanter | 96 DECThis is the top-shelf wine from Il Poggione, and it's a must-have bottle for those who collect wines from this celebrated estate. From an icon vintage, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is a beauty. It stands at the intersection of intensity, elegance and power. The fruit is shapely and dense with plenty of blackberry and black cherry, and you also get savory touches of campfire ash, tar, licorice, ferrous earth and balsam herb. Honestly, you get it all, including that distinctive Brunello power and abundance that is not easily achieved with such careful balance. The finish is structured, fresh and long, and with more time in the glass, the leathery or savory aromas become more pronounced (as does the alcohol). Production is 40,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA beam of pure cherry permeates this sleek, elegant red, shaded by floral, mineral, wild herb and orange zest accents. Well-delineated and long, this has the balance, grip and intensity for a long life ahead. Best from 2025 through 2045. 3,300 cases made, 750 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSCedar, forest floor and new leather aromas come to the forefront along with violet and dried botanical herbs. Full-bodied and enveloping, the savory palate delivers dried cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in velvety tannins.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe freshness and depth are impressive, with floral, dark-berry and cherry character that follows through to a full body with chewy tannins that are polished and solid. Flavorful at the end. Needs time to soften. Best after 2024.James Suckling | 94 JS

This red is all about finesse, delivering superb balance and complexity, with cherry, raspberry, earth and wild herb aromas and flavors. Succulent and charming, yet with a solid base of tannins and vivid acidity, this remains focused through the long aftertaste. Best from 2026 through 2042. 4,575 cases made, 3,000 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 96 WSTobacco, truffle, violet and hints of mocha and cherry pie unfold on this beautiful Brunello. Classically crafted and elegantly structured, it delivers flavors of ripe Morello cherry, wild raspberry, baking spice and licorice alongside enveloping, refined tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it nicely balanced. Drink 2028–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 96 KOThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is remarkably pretty, wafting up with a blend of violets and lavender before giving way to steeped plum lifted by mint. This is racy and sleek, with cooling acidity and mineral tones that excite the palate. Juicy acidity enlivens tart wild berry fruits. The 2019 finds its center through the finish, as fine tannins emerge and a crunchy sensation lingers. Licorice and bitter blackberry notes taper off slowly. In a word, fantastic. The balance of complexity, structure and energy places the 2019 very high in my book.Vinous Media | 95 VMA ruby/magenta color, the 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino offers more rounded floral aromas of preserved strawberry, baby powder, cocoa, and lavender. Medium-bodied, it brings forward excellent energy on the palate, with fresh acidity, good concentration, and a sustained and mouthwatering finish that’s pure and delicious. The structure feels more noble than the nose would suggest and perhaps just needs more time to come into its own, but this is a really delicious wine that I would love to have again and again. On the second tasting, it offers a more plush and velvety texture, and its chocolate notes last on the finish. Drink 2024-2040.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDVery pretty floral aromas with black cherry and orange peel. Medium body, firm tannins and a polished and silky-textured finish. Drink in two or three years and beyond. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 93 JSGiacomo Bartolomei has been making the wine at his family’s property without an external consultant since 2016. He maintains an uber-pristine cellar, prepares a pied de cuve to aid spontaneous fermentations in stainless steel and has reduced time in wood to preserve freshness as the wine ages. From its deep ruby hue to its black cherry scents, the 2019 is youthful and primary. Accents of mocha, bitter orange and sage bestow complexity on the palate. Fairly robust and mouthfilling, this is buttressed by dry, grainy tannins. Could do with a bit more precision but there is potential here.Decanter | 92 DEC

Pretty pure fruit to this with black cherry, black berry and light chocolate aromas. The palate is full and focused with very polished tannins and a long, long finish. Best after 2027.James Suckling | 95 JSThe Caparzo 2019 Brunello di Montalcino offers lively aromas of cherry cola, forest berry and dried cranberry that really pop on the bouquet. The dimension and latitude of the wine is impressive, especially in terms of mouthfeel, and with this bottle you’re set for near and medium-term drinking. However, what works best in my opinion is the wine’s balanced and much-needed freshness. You get great quality over an ambitious release of 160,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino opens slowly in the glass, yet it is worth the wait as a dusty blend of dried flowers, cedar shavings, wild strawberries, and spice emerges over time. It’s silky and enveloping with fresh acidity and pretty wild berry fruits that gain in sweetness as they travel across the palate. It finishes long and staining yet still lively and spry, leaving a coating of fine tannins and licorice hints that resonate under an air of violet inner florals. The 2019 is a lovely interpretation of northern Montalcino fruit.Vinous Media | 93 VMDelicate aromas suggesting graphite, crushed mint and iris take shape on the 2019 Brunello from Caparzo. Smooth and sleek, the linear palate features juicy Morello cherry, raspberry, star anise and the same graphite nose as the nose. Polished tannins offer lithe support. It’s already surprisingly accessible but will also offer another decade of pleasure. Drink 2027–2034. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KO

This wine always stands out in my mind, and it’s worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That’s all there is to it.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

In the bottle with the burgundy-colored label, the Tenute Silvio Nardi 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a layered and generous wine with black fruit, cherry, spice and a hint of Provençal mixed herbs on black olive. There are further hints of underbrush, crushed slate, petrichor from schistic soils, and toasted almond that adds some sweetness from French oak. The tannins are velvety and soft, but this wine is regularly balanced throughout. It’s well made in an ample production of 150,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPA spicy version, whose black pepper and Szechuan peppercorn notes highlight the core cherry and strawberry flavors. Underbrush and iron accents also enter the mix, while this stays balanced and long as the tannins leave their grip on the finish. Best from 2027 through 2042. 12,000 cases made, 3,300 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 94 WSBlackberry, black-truffle and black-cherry aromas follow through to a medium body with juicy fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Polished, pretty tannins here. Nicely crafted. Drink after 2026.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is dark in color and style, with a bouquet of dried berries and florals complicated by orange zest and a dusting of cocoa. It sweeps across the palate with racy acidity and sleek textures that usher in spicy cherry-berry fruits. The 2019 finishes with a mentholated freshness, edgy tannins and medium length, leaving a slightly bitter tinge to linger.Vinous Media | 90 VMAn assemblage of various plots throughout Montalcino, this spends 12 months in French oak tonneaux followed a further 18 in large Slavonian oak casks. Nutmeg, allspice and chocolate lead. Ripe but not rich, this is strapping in personality. Somewhat astringent tannins suggest a generous extraction. These need to catch up with the mature, mellowed fruit. Frisky acidity preserves freshness and tamarind introduces an enticing twist. It has plenty of personality, if not completely balanced. The Nardi family works with Bordeaux consultant Eric Boissenot for the final blend.Decanter | 90 DEC