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2020 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine.Decanter | 97 DECChoosing a favorite among the last three grand crus in the Domaine Fèvre lineup is simply impossible in 2020. The les Clos is yet another stunning young wine, offering up a refined and complex bouquet of pear, tart orange, fresh lime, flinty, chalky minerality, citrus peel, dried flowers and a nice touch of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and seamlessly balanced, with a beautiful harness of acidity, a great core of fruit and a very long, very minerally and oh, so complex young finish. A great wine by any measure! (Drink between 2032 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre’s immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it’s full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It’s the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lemon rind, green apple, quinine and acacia blossom scents that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is again excellent volume and concentration to the powerful and muscular flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively complex and hugely long finish. This is classic Les Clos in that it manages to be at once big and overtly powerful while remaining refined and classy. This is, in a word, stunning.Burghound | 96 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 10 parcels scattered mainly over the top of the hill. It has a well-defined, crisp and (for the vintage) quite austere nose due to the location higher up the slope. The fresh palate is nicely detailed with lime and lemon thyme and good salinity. Quite strict on the mineral-driven finish. Good potential, but it will need time.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis lemon- and green apple–infused white stays lean, racy and long, combining power and intensity. On the austere side today, with a mineral underpinning and chalky finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

97
JG
As low as $155.00
2021 Christian Moreau Pere et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos

This white is both austere and intense, exuding floral, lemon, mineral and pastry aromas and flavors matched to a lean, bracing frame. The flavors persist, picking up lanolin, rosemary and a chalky feel on the long finish. Best from 2025 through 2032. 46 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA touch of wood toast makes itself known on the otherwise similar if even more floral-suffused nose. The rich, powerful and imposingly concentrated larger-scaled flavors brim with both sappy dry extract and minerality on the massively persistent, balanced and agreeably dry finale. I generally don’t find a great deal of qualitative difference between the Hospices and the regular cuvée but in 2021 the Hospices has just bit more overall depth, at least at this early juncture.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices feels more closed than the regular cuvée, but there’s just a bit of flintiness developing with aeration in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, very harmonious and poised, though I am seeking a little more grip on the finish. Maybe this year, I might err more towards the regular cuvée.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA tiny bit more colour than Les Clos with a little bit more fruit weight but less elegance than the classical bottling. Some perfume here, richer and seemingly riper with some suggestion of peaches, followed by salinity. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

97
DEC
As low as $109.00
2022 Domaine Berthelemot Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru

No written review provided | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

97
DEC
As low as $195.00
2022 Domaine Rene et Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Notes of anise and mint, with demure hints of fruit, yet this is a wine of texture, detail and drive, demanding time. Very powerful and expansive, with a stony, phenolic drag across a prodigiously long finish. Wonderful performance. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSDauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. This has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years’ ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses unwinds in the glass with aromas of oyster shell, orange blossom, warm stones and subtle hints of citrus oil—this cuvée is almost always more about rocks than fruit. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and electric, it’s racy and tensile, with a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru will be very seductive on the nose, discrete at first, unfurling with yellow plum, flint, touches of oyster shell and spice box. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity, and hints of praline and orchard fruit. Completely harmonious with an irresistible finish, so much so that I cannot resist swallowing when I’m "on duty." Chablis firing on all cylinders - this is a long-term prospect.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe name of the vineyard is a version Pierreuses, referencing the huge blocks of stone underneath a reasonable marly topsoil. The 2022 displays a really complex nose, a bit of sun on the stones, the cailloux chauds of the amphitheatre in which Vincent Dauvissat’s holding sits. Then follows a massive development of fruit on the palate too. There is really a huge volume of fruit at the back, with a little iodine touch throughout. Makes one salivate! Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMMore elegant and cooler aromas include those of essence of apple, citrus zest, iodine and shellfish nuances. The rich, generously proportioned and gorgeously textured flavors are at once powerful yet refined; indeed there is a Zen-like character to the sneaky long, impeccably well-balanced and wonderfully harmonious finale. Marvelous and a wine that should age effortlessly over the next 12 to 15 years.Burghound | 93-96 BH

95-97
VM
As low as $449.00
2022 J.C. Perraud Vire Clesse

Delightfully ripe melon, lemon zest, sweet clove and vanilla oak characters perfectly befit this stylish wonder, which tumble gracefully over the generous structure and luxurious creamy texture, kept in check with a verve of expressive acidity.Decanter | 97 DEC

97
DEC
As low as $27.99
2022 Domaine Louis Michel & Fils Chablis Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre

There is complexity on the nose, weight and concentration on the palate, along with great acidity, all combined with the ripeness of fruit and mineral notes on the finish. Just bottled but still showing beautifully. Manager Guillaume Michel notes that his Montée de Tonnerre is 100% from Chapelot. This is a south-facing, homogenous parcel from the bottom of Chapelot to the mid-level.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has an attractive bouquet with touches of frangipane infusing the citrus fruit and hints of dried orange peel coming through with time. The palate is well-balanced with a waxy-textured opening. Good delineation, quite saline, with a twist of sour lemon dovetailing into a slight nutty/smoky note on the finish. One of the finest Premier Crus from Louis Michel.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMLean and tightly packed, with apple, lemon and stone flavors, this intense, balanced white remains well-delineated from start to finish, ending with compact fruit and mineral accents. Best from 2026 through 2033. 450 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSA more elegant, airier and more floral-suffused nose combines notes of spiced pear and enough Chablis elements to be more than just interesting. The refined, delicious and caressing middleweight flavors possess very good punch on the firm, balanced, moderately dry and bitter lemon-inflected finish. This markedly stony effort is also quite good and worth considering.Burghound | 91-94 BHFrom the Chapelot sector. Mid lemon yellow. the nose is much more backward than Vaulorent though with power. Picked 6th September at 12.5%. Plenty of guts to this, a more austere stoniness on the second half of the palate, no shortage of fruit, becoming just a little more opulent at the finish. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

95
DEC
As low as $47.99
2022 Domaine Lamy Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Pot Bois

The village-level Chassagne Pot Bois from Lamy Pillot is an attractive wine with aromas of lemon peel, green apple, and a suggestion of linden flowers. The texture is fresh and crisp, relatively light in body, with enough substance to create a dynamic balance. It is interesting to compare the versions of Lamy-Pillot and Lamy-Caillat, both produced by Sébastien Caillat. The latter has slightly more smoky reductive notes and a more present salty minerality, while his work at Lamy-Pillot emphasises the purity of the fruit and floral notes. Both are delicious wines; the former is also a superb value.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Pot Bois derives from younger vines than those that produce the communal Chassagne-Montrachet bottling from Domaine Lamy-Caillat (which hails from the same high-quality hillside lieu-dit), but the terroir leaves the same imprint on this chiseled, electric wine. Offering up aromas of minty apple, pear, white flowers and freshly baked bread, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, concluding with a saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPClear fresh colour, with an energetic limestone nose, huge energy to this, stricter than the regular, I think horses for courses rather than one better than the other. Interesting finish though, with minerals and fresh plums together. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JM

95
DEC
As low as $89.99
2022 Domaine Lamy Pillot Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot

The white Morgeot from Lamy-Pillot is blended from three lieux-dits: Petit Clos, which is in the majority; Fairendes, just to the north; and Champs Jeandreau down the slope from La Boudriotte. Interestingly, it seems there is more vivacity than in the white from Clos Saint-Jean. Citrus and ripe pear dominate the aromas with a hint of spice and white flowers. The texture has more freshness and just a hint of reduction. From all indications, this is a wine that should age well.Decanter | 96 DECGently reductive aromas of sweet orchard fruit, white flowers and pastry cream preface the 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that’s fine-boned, vibrant and charming. It’s a blend of lieux-dits Petit Clos, Fairendes and Champs Jendreau.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPMade mostly from the upper slopes of Morgeot: Petit Clos and Fairendes, along with a bit of Champ Jeandreau. Clear light colour. The nose suggests weight but no detail of fruit. On the palate, there is a fine wealth of concentrated white fruit, more than just apples in this orchard, which dominates. There is plenty in reserve to make a real vin de garde. This is a keeper that will be worth waiting for. A lovely little touch of acidity to finish. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMThe 2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has a tightly wound, stony bouquet, focused and linear, with touches of sea spray and Crustacea emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced with fine poise and depth. Bound together with a silver thread of acidity, this gently gambols to a lightly spiced, almost peppery finish. Delightful.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

96
DEC
As low as $119.00
2022 Domaine Long-Depaquit (Albert Bichot) Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Quite subtle and restrained on both nose and palate. Plenty of warmth of fruit, but as yet quite restrained. Lovely, salty, zesty notes promise a lot in the future. Ripe peach fruit characters develop with a few minutes in the glass. This will be a great example of Les Clos once in bottle. Tank sample.Decanter | 95 DECQuietly powerful, with subtle fruit flavors, a full body (for Chablis) and layers of fruit, minerals and toast that build on the palate and linger in the finish. Grown on a south-facing slope in clay-based but stony soil. 30% was barrel-fermented, and it shows an opulent, rich expression underlain by a minerally, saline character. Drinkable now, but will develop much more complexity with time. From organically grown grapes. Best from 2029.James Suckling | 94 JSA rich style, exhibiting peach and canteloupe flavors, with a hint of vanilla. Balanced and refreshing, this firms up, with a tactile sensation on the extended finish. Needs time to fully integrate. Best from 2026 through 2032. 1,812 cases made, 110 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSBright full lemon colour with greener notes behind. Floral though with more latent power than that suggests. There is no doubting the intensity of white fruit across the palate, lemons and apples joining the white fruit at the finish, then a more headily perfumed note at the very end, muscat and passion fruit, which suggests that it was time to pick these grapes. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: October 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JMGenerous wood and vanilla nuances wood frame cool and exuberantly fresh aromas of citrus, apple and ocean brine. There is borderline painful intensity to the imposing and tautly muscular larger-scaled flavors that retain a lovely sense of refinement on the powerful, balanced, bone-dry and built-to-age finale. As is usually the case with this wine, it’s going to require at least a few years of patience to develop better depth and better integrate what at this point is a borderline annoying level of wood.Burghound | 91-94 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is two-thirds aged in stainless steel and the remainder in wooden barrel for nine months, plus five months, whereby the entire blend is raised in vat. The nose has good intensity: green apple and light kiwi fruit, leesy at the moment but well defined. The palate is taut on the entry with fine depth, well-judged acidity, and smooth in texture with hints of Conference pear mixed with quite spicy peppery notes towards the finish. Good potential.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM

95
DEC
As low as $105.00
2022 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

Very appealing, with a fine balance of richness and ripeness of fruit, combined with white pepper, saline minerals and plenty of freshening acidity. A very classy example.Decanter | 95 DEC

95
DEC
As low as $79.99
2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Small yield, very concentrated, with masses of density on the palate. Plenty of drive and energy but has finesse to balance out the power. White peach fruit characters, vibrant acidity and a pronounced mineral, salty finish. Very long future ahead. Fèvre owns 4.1ha of the 25ha total within Les Clos. Its plots situated on the top of the hill, with 50% of the vines planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s and 1950s.Decanter | 95 DECThis is aromatically quite similar to the Côte Bouguerots but with more floral influence. The rich, big-bodied and tautly muscular flavors are also seemingly chiseled from Kimmeridgian, all wrapped in a wonderfully persistent, very dry, balanced and stony finale. This is also extremely impressive and equally built to repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93-95 BHThe 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn’t quite have the precision of Fevre’s best cuvées at the moment.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

95-98
JM
As low as $179.00
2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Beautiful mix of richness, grace and drive. As always with Fèvre’s Les Preuses, this is elegant, long-living and fine. Ultra-stylish and very mineral. From two sections of vines. One situated low down on Les Preuses next to Vincent Dauvissat’s plot, on the flatter part facing south, the other on deeper soils, with both adding richness and totalling 2.5ha.Decanter | 96 DECA toasty nose features notes of smoky grilled shellfish, pear and algae. The dense and equally serious larger-scaled flavors don’t have quite the same power yet they are clearly more refined on the markedly bitter citrus zest finish that displays outstanding length. This is exceptionally classy and while it too could use more depth, that is all but assured if given a chance.Burghound | 92-95 BHSuch a fresh lime infused colour. The bouquet shows the soft creamy riches that you can find here in Les Preuses. There is plenty of bulk but the hectare plot which drops down into Vaudésir gives the mineral tension. A little lime and lemon coats the tongue at the finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 93-95 JMThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is not unlike the Valmur on the nose: backward and a little sultry in style, with faint touches of crustacea coming through. The palate is more generous with orchard fruit, hints of apricot and wild peach, and fine acidity. It is very harmonious but without quite the same complexity as the Valmur on the finish. Still, this should give many years of drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

96
DEC
As low as $119.00
2022 Jean Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Grenouilles

The 2022 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru has a more low-key nose than the impressive 2021, well-defined with crushed limestone, Granny Smiths and peach skin aromas. The palate is well-balanced, with a fine bead of acidity counterbalancing the richness. Tensile, quite saline, building gradually towards a very cohesive finish. Refined and sophisticated.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM

95
DEC
As low as $99.99

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