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A candidate for wine of the vintage, the 2007 Graham’s Vintage Port is complete in every way. Opaque purple-colored, it offers up an ethereal perfume of smoke, mineral, Asian spices, incense, an amalgam of ripe black fruits, and a hint of chocolate in the background. This leads to a dense, super-rich, plush, opulent wine that hides its structure under all the fruit. Vibrant, impeccably balanced, and exceptionally lengthy, it will easily age for another 25-30 years in the cellar and drink well through 2050, probably longer. It is a tour de force.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPA classic vintage of Graham's, the cool, balanced fruitiness of 2007 plays right into the style of the house. This is harmonious and powerful, with pure fresh fruit that bursts in the mouth then lasts, sustained, as the flavors of the Douro's ancient varieties cascade for minutes in fascinating interplay and detail. As luscious as it may be, the fruit still has red tones, along with a sensual texture. The schist tannins are muscular, sculpted into soft curves, Apollonian in their power. Compelling to drink as a young wine, this has what it takes to mature for 50 years or more.Wine & Spirits | 97 W&SRich and chewy, with masses of blueberry, blackberry and raisin character. Full-bodied and very sweet, with a long, powerful finish. Big and juicy, with ultraripe fruit. Racy and full of class. Like cashmere in texture. Best after 2018. 6,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WS(Graham’s) Of all the very top, blue chip producers in Porto, the Graham’s is likely to be the 2007 that offers up the very earliest possibility of really enjoyable drinking. This is a structured vintage with great acidity, which should allow the top wines to unfold in a very leisurely fashion, but the 2007 Graham’s has its customary opulence to trade upon and should be flat out delicious by the time it reaches its tenth birthday. The beautiful bouquet offers up scents of black cherries, plums, a touch of black raspberry, pepper, woodsmoke, lovely soil tones and a pungent topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and almost voluptuous on the attack, with great backbone, exemplary focus and great elegance on the long and intense finish. Yet another profound example of the vintage.Drink between 2020-2100John Gilman | 95 JGA Port for aging, as you would expect from Graham's. The wine is dry, firm, textured, solid and dense. The fruit flavors of fresh cranberry and black currant are a supporting act at this stage. Classic vintage.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WESaturated, deep violet-ruby color. Supersweet nose conveys a distinctly liqueur-like quality to the flamboyant dark fruit, licorice pastille and chocolate aromas. Sweet, lush, round and hugely concentrated, with extraordinary lift and purity for a vintage port with this kind of ripeness and thickness of material. The sexy dark chocolate quality carries through in the mouth. Finishes with outstanding breadth, length and sweetness of fruit. It's easy to underrate a wine that's so sweet in the early going, but this has the density, vibrancy and spine for three or four decades of development in bottle.Vinous Media | 94 VM

(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Caillerets - Clos des Soixante Ouvrées" 1er 1er Cru Red) The ripest nose to this point exhibits liqueur-like notes of plum, blue berry and violets that complement well the equally ripe, opulent and mineral-inflected flavors that are also quite full-bodied, all wrapped in a detailed, vibrant and hugely long finish. The underlying material here is superb and this should easily improve for the next 12 to 15 years and last for an equivalent period thereafter. (Drink starting 2021)Burghound | 94 BHGood full, bright red. Reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, truffle and licorice; subdued but not at all roasted. Silky on entry, then dry and rich in the middle, with excellent depth and verve to the flavors of black and red fruits and spices. Very nicely judged extraction here has given the wine superb balance for 2009. The tannins seem a bit tougher today than the 2010 version, and this wine conveys an impression of lowish pH, suggesting that it will be long-lived. Cellarmaster Christophe Bouillot noted that a young parcel of ten-year-old vines provided acidity, while another one, where the vines are at least 60 years old, contributed inner-mouth energy, length and nobility of tannins.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2009 Volnay Clos des Soixante Ouvrees is one of the more delicate wines in the lineup. Here the fruit shows a redder tonality, while the structural components work more on linearity rather than depth. This is another thrilling wine from Pousse d-Or. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA delicious, soft wine, packed with ripe, almost sweet red fruits. More complexity comes from the integrated wood and acidity, although approachability is the dominant character.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

I like the aromas of sliced mushroom, berries and wet earth, that follow through to a full body, with super silky tannins and a chewy finish. A fit, yet polished wine here. Try after 2020.James Suckling | 95 JSAs I wrote in my barrel tasting note, the 2009 appears to be the finest Gruaud Larose since their 1990. Some of my concerns about too much brett in previous vintages are long gone as the purity of the 2009 jumps out. Copious notes of sagebrush, cedar, cigar box, licorice, incense, blackberries and lead pencil shavings suggest a big Pauillac rather than a St.-Julien. Broad, rich and full-bodied with good balance and abundant, but sweet, well-integrated tannin, this big, masculine Gruaud Larose reveals remarkable finesse, richness, extract, density and a cascade of fruit that nearly hides the lofty tannins. This beauty should be at its best between 2020-2045.Robert Parker | 95 RPThe 2009 Gruaud Larose has a fresh, backward, tightly coiled bouquet with ample blackberry and bilberry fruit, fine tension and focus, a nose that is intending to last the distance (and why not?) The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, laced-like tannin with a wonderfully detailed and persistent finish. This is some quality winemaking here and it is a wonderful 2009 Saint-Julien. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMSmoky grilled oak on the nose is joined by some tarry hints. The palate is structured and ambitious, and will take a good few more years to come around. I would go for Branaire or Lagrange as my picks of classified St-Juliens to open soon, but this is an extremely good quality wine that is going to age very well. Drinking Window 2019 - 2036.Decanter | 94 DECVanilla new wood aromas, followed by sweet wood and sweet fruit. There is certainly enough weight here, with ripe, smooth texture and fresh blackcurrants.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEThis has good density, with fleshy blackberry and blueberry cobbler flavors laced with anise, sweet spice and smoldering maduro tobacco notes. Long and well-structured, with fresh, embedded acidity. Best from 2013 through 2023. 14,500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2009 Gruaud Larose is a fine example of the vintage in the making. The bouquet is deep, ripe and promises quite a bit of structure in its mélange of cassis, black cherries, tobacco leaf, espresso, gravelly soil tones and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite buttoned down behind its structural elements, with a rock solid core of fruit, firm tannins and impressive acidity on the long, focused and tangy finish. This will take at least a decade to blossom, but should prove to be a fine vintage of Gruaud. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 89-91 JG

Talk about value, the 2009 Duhart-Milon is straight up sensational stuff. Made from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, it gives up classic notes of blackcurrants, pencil shavings, saddle leather and smoked herbs, it’s full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with fine tannin, impeccable balance and a great, great finish. It’s a heavenly bottle of wine that will compete with the best out there. Buy this wine!Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDA blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, it displays an inky/blue/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, forest floor, licorice, lead pencil, cedar and subtle barrique smells. Viscous and full-bodied, it is the most concentrated and broadest example of this cuvee I have tasted in over three decades. It will be ready to drink in 5-7 years and should last for three decades or more. Consumers looking to maximize value should be checking out Duhart Milon, as this may be the single smartest purchase in this great and historic vintage!Robert Parker | 97 RPThis is superb, with so much beautiful subtle fruit and wonderful flowers. Full and very lively, with super fine tannins and a lively finish. Very exciting. Best ever from here. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2009 Duhart-Milon is recalcitrant on the nose, refusing to give much away in terms of aromas. Loamy, peaty scents emerge with time amongst the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, fresh in the mouth with good salinity. There is something estuarine about this Pauillac that lends it personality and its grip on the finish suggesting that it will give many more years of drinking pleasure. This has long been an impressive Duhart-Milon and so it is proven here. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.Vinous Media | 95 VMA rounded wine, its tannins submerged into the ripe fruits. It feels soft, and there is just a bite of alcohol. The structure is soft, generous, opulent.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEThis takes a fleshy, rather toasty approach, showing roasted plum and black currant fruit, with a smoked mesquite note on the loam-tinged finish. There’s more breadth than depth, but this has the latent minerality to last a long time in the cellar. Best from 2015 through 2027.Wine Spectator | 92 WS(Château Duhart Milon) The 2009 Duhart Milon is a mini version of the Lafite this year and any fan of Lafite would be well-served to track down a goodly supply of the 2009 Duhart Milon as well. The bouquet is deep, pure and enchanting, as it delivers a beautifully perfumed blend of cassis, dark berries, espresso, tobacco ash, gravel and plenty of luxe, nutty new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full, pure and complex, with impeccable focus and balance, ripe, suave tannins and really fine length and grip on the classy finish. (Drink between 2018-2040)John Gilman | 90-91+ JGEnticing nose of ripe hedgerow fruits. Svelte, concentrated, with robust tannins to balance the sweetness of fruit, plus graphite and liquorice. Structure is disguised but it’s clearly there. Potentially very fine. Judges: Steven Brook, Alun Griffiths MW and Steven Spurrier.Decanter | 91 DEC

Full, deep red. Sexy scents of black raspberry, licorice, violet and minerals, plus torrefaction notes of espresso and mocha. More tightly wound on the palate than the young 2012; less horizontal and broad at this stage but wonderfully thick, fine-grained, savory and precise, with its multidimensional flavors of dark fruits, spices, minerals and flowers given an added element of complexity by savory soil tones. Manages to be both velvety and light on its feet, and ultimately suppler than the ’12. This exceptional young grand cru finishes with utterly mellow, perfect integrated tannins, explosive rising length and penetrating salty minerality. In short, a great expression of soil and a classic example of its vintage. (13.7% alcohol; 3.34 pH; 20 h/h)Vinous Media | 96 VMThere is just enough wood to be visible but it should be absorbed in short order. Interestingly, the aromatic profile is relatively similar to that of the Griotte, though this has significantly more depth and concentration to the full-bodied, powerful and explosive flavors that benefit greatly from the exceptional depth of material before culminating in a massively long and impeccably well-balanced finish. Sometimes the Roty Charmes displays its wood for years but the 2010 version appears as though it will eat it sooner than usual. In short, this is a stunner of a wine that clearly outclasses its two grands crus stable mates so if you can find it buy it.Burghound | 95 BH

Espresso, mocha, cloves, violets and plums all meld together in the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard. Rich, sumptuous and layered, the 2010 boasts tons of depth and pure structure. Much more expressive than the 2010 Insignia is today, the Backus is relatively open at this stage. At the same time, though, the underlying structure suggests the 2010 will drink well for many years.Vinous Media | 96 VMThe 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol, and is aged 24 months in 100% new French oak. It has Pessac-Leognan-like aromas of charcoal, scorched earth, creme de cassis, and a distinct loamy soil/earthy character as well as minerality. Full-bodied, powerful and masculine with mouthstaining levels of extract in addition to mouthwatering levels of tannin, this 2010 needs to be forgotten for at least a decade, and drunk over the following 30-40 years. It could be a 50-year wine.Robert Parker | 90+ RP

Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead pencil shavings as well as gobs of back currants and licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with fabulous precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky finish with moderately high tannins, but they are ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac, which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.If you can’t afford Lafite-Rothschild (few can)or even their second wine, Carruades de Lafite, you still have Duhart Milon, which has become a profound wine over the last 5-7 years due to the extensive amount of attention and investment the Rothschilds have pumped into this estate. This blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot is fabulous, a dead ringer for Lafite in a great vintage. (It is probably better than many of the Lafites of the 1960s and 1970s, and even some of the vintages in the 1980s).Robert Parker | 96 RPGravel over limestone, similar to Château Lafite Rothschild and under the same ownership. Cooler northern exposure of the terroir requires more time to ripen, but that was no problem in 2010. This has ripe fruit with graphite and wet stone. It may not be as dense as Clerc Milon, but the expression of finesse and refinement is unmistakable. Long, subtle finish. Pleasing, high-toned fruit perfectly matches grilled lamb chops with roast potatoes. Drinking Window 2021 - 2045.Decanter | 95 DECLike a lot of 2010s, the 2010 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild is tight and backward, yet has serious potential. Sporting a deep ruby/purple color and classic notes of currants, lead pencil shavings, cedarwood and saddle leather, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a tight, firm focused texture and beautiful concentration. Its tannins are present, yet ripe and integrated, and it has the purity and freshness that’s the hallmark of this great, great vintage. Give bottles another 2-3 years and it should keep for two to three decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 94+ JDA wine with an intense sous bois, fresh tobacco and dried flower character on the nose and palate. Full body, with ultra-fine tannins and an attractive finish. It’s structured yet polished with a beauty and stature. Try in 2015.James Suckling | 93 JSThe 2010 Duhart-Milon has a backward nose that is going through a dumb phase. There is plenty of fruit here but it is “locked down” at the moment. The palate is very well defined with crisp acidity, fine-boned tannins and superb balanced. It is not a deep or grippy Pauillac, but it feels...streamlined, athletic and wonderfully poised on the graphite infused finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 93 VMJuicy black currant fruit mingles with bright acidity and dark-chocolate tannins. This often overlooked château, with the same production team as Lafite-Rothschild, has an intense and concentrated 2010, balanced superbly between firmness and fruitiness.Wine Enthusiast | 93 WEWell-polished, with sleek edges to the fleshy plum, cassis and blackberry fruit, while the finish is embedded with black licorice and violet notes. Approachable now, but the stuffing is there to cellar this for a bit. Drink now through 2025.Wine Spectator | 91 WS(Château Duhart-Milon) While both the Carruades and Lafite steer clear of any signs of overripeness in this vintage, the same cannot be said for the 2010 Château Duhart-Milon, which, while not overtly overripe, does show a rather forceful personality that is rather out of character. The bouquet is deep, very ripe and quite powerful, as it offers up scents of cassis, dark berries, cigar ash, gravelly soil tones, tobacco leaf and new oak. On the palate the wine is full, broad-shouldered and really a bit four-square at the present time, with a rock solid core, plenty of firm, well-integrated tannins and a very good grip on the long and palate-staining finish. This will need some extended cellaring to soften, but it is hard to imagine that it will ever develop the customary charm of this property. This is another 2010 where the ripeness of the vintage has seemingly robbed this wine of a bit of focus and detail, and it is an open question if those qualities can be revived with extended cellaring. (Drink between 2022-2050)John Gilman | 88-90+ JG

Two bottles of the 2010 Grand Puy-Lacoste were opened, the first showing just a little oxidation. The second has an attractive minty bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with subtle marine/seaweed notes, a touch of graphite developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive tension and wonderful freshness right from the start. There is a sense of coiled up energy here and the finish just leaves you breathless. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.Vinous Media | 97 VMFreshness and seamless elegance, with vivid, bright red and black fruit. Floral aspects evoke a sense of Margaux elegance, but the palate’s noticeable grip and backbone remind you that this is Pauillac. From vines on deep gravels, ideal for ripening the 75% plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon. Such refinement and power go with prime rib in a truffle sauce. (Drink between 2021-2050)Decanter | 96 DECIntense hazelnuts and blackberries on the nose follow through to a full to medium body, with chocolate and berry flavors and firm tannins. Not giving away a lot at the finish at the moment. Reserved and sophisticated. But structured and chewy. Try in 2017.James Suckling | 95 JSAn absolutely magnificent wine from this very popular estate, which sits well off the Route du Vin, just to the southwest of the town of Pauillac, its classic creme de cassis and floral notes are well-displayed. The wine possesses supple tannin, a full body, voluptuous character and a layered, impressively textured mouthfeel. This is a brilliant effort from Grand Puy Lacoste that can be drunk in 4-5 years or cellared for three decades or more.Robert Parker | 95 RPVery densely tannic wine, the dry character of the wine a major element. This dryness gives the wine power, without the fruit at this stage. It does have the weight for the future.Wine Enthusiast | 92-94 WEThis is dense but silky around the edges, with crushed plum and black currant fruit lined with roasted vanilla bean, tobacco and loam notes. Everything hangs solidly through the finish, lined with finely beaded acidity and leaving an echo of singed anise. Best from 2015 through 2028.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste) Grand-Puy-Lacoste has turned out quite well in 2010, with a rather modest 13.4 percent alcohol certainly adding a bit in terms of precision and purity to the wine than is on display at many of its neighbors. The classy nose offers up a ripe, but pure blend of sweet cassis, black cherries, espresso, cigar smoke, gravel and spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite powerful in profile, with a good core of fruit, plenty of firm, ripe tannins and excellent balance on the long and impressively focused finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2020-2060)John Gilman | 91+ JG

The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin is pure pleasure. Black cherries, plums, cloves, violets and new leather are all woven together in a fabric of notable class. Here it is the wine’s extraordinary textural finesse and overall harmony that take over all of the senses. There is so much to like here, including the wine’s generous, inviting personality. The Charmes has really come on strong over the last year.Vinous Media | 95 VMAn ultra-fresh, cool and equally pure nose features a plethora of red berry scents along with notes of earth, spice, underbrush and a floral element that adds aromatic lift. Not surprisingly, the ripe broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer and more powerful with plenty of punch before culminating in a focused, balanced and solidly persistent finish. This will need at least a decade to arrive at its majority but it should be excellent when it does so.Burghound | 93 BHMoving on to the trio of Claude Dugat’s Grand Crus, the 2011 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a quintessential “Charmes” bouquet with vivacious scents of dark cherry, blueberry and quince, suffused with an almost sorbet-like freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sinewy entry. It coalesces in the second half and displays very fine, supple tannins with plenty of juicy Pinot fruit just cloaked under the 100% new oak at the moment, although everything is balanced and in sync. I would afford this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. Drink 2016-2025.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RP

A vintage that marks the producer’s 200th anniversary, the Champagne is ripe with mature white fruits. It is an impressive wine that has richness alongside a tight mineral texture. Drink now. Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEThe 2012 Champagne Brut is equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Noir and has 8 grams per liter dosage. Since the 1950s, only 30 vintages have been produced by the house. The aromatics are reminiscent of a Burgundian feel, with pleasant flinty reduction, smoke, and vibrant green fruits of pear and citrus blossoms. Offering an energetic mousse with green apple, yellow plum, lemon curd, and wet stone, this wine is well-balanced and should continue to improve over the coming 15-20 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDElegant array of lemons, slate, biscuits, oyster shells, croissants and brioche. Precise and focused on the palate, with sharp acidity and tight, fine bubbles. Pure and youthful for now. 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir. Dosage 8g/L. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 94 JSLight gold with very fine, persistent bubbles, the Brut Millésimé 2012 is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir aged ten years on lees and finished with an eight gram per liter. Redolent of white peach, Chantecler apple, toasted brioche, vanilla bean, and honey brickle, the medium to full-bodied palate is richly textured around a plush red fruit core and balanced by stimulating and bright acid freshness through a long finish with a kiss of lemon peel bitterness.The Wine Independent | 94 TWIA harmonious Champagne, with a fine and persistent mousse on the palate, this layers a rich note of marzipan with flavors of white cherry, preserved lemon, biscuit and a refreshing streak of salinity that lingers on the mouthwatering finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2032.Wine Spectator | 93 WS2012 is the 30th opus of this cuvée. Since 1938, and the acquisition of Laurent-Perrier by the Nonancourt family, it has been crafted to be a subtle balance between ‘the house style and the vintage style,’ according to Michel Fauconnet, Laurent-Perrier’s chef de caves. The Pinot Noir, which comprises half the blend and which Fauconnet describes as very ‘powerful’, is sourced from five villages: Bouzy, Verzy, Aÿ, Mailly, and for the first time in the history of this cuvée, Rilly-la-Montagne, which is not a grand cru village. The Chardonnay, which makes up the other half of the blend, is sourced from the villages of Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Chouilly. ‘The year 2012 was characterised by successive climatic accidents. There was a major winter frost as well as a spring frost, not to mention 10 or so episodes of hail, causing significant damage. A hailstorm on the seventh of June caused extensive damage in various villages,’ said Laurent-Perrier. In spite of this, the dry and sunny summer brought about a beautiful maturity. With an energetic yet bright bouquet, the Laurent-Perrier 2012 possesses gorgeous aromas of orchard fruits, herbs, lemon and spices, with a hint of menthol. Calcareous on the palate, the structure is medium- to full-bodied, with a laser-like texture and a long and penetrating finish. It is undeniably one of the frank successes of the vintage, and while it has no need for further ageing, it may surprise us even further in the future.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2012 Laurent-Perrier Brut Millésime is composed from a fifty-fifty blend of chardonnay and pinot noir. The nose is bright and very elegant in profile, offering up scents of apple, pear, bread dough, chalky soil tones, fresh almond, dried flowers and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and very well balanced, with a fine core of fruit, lovely soil inflection, a fine spine of acidity, pinpoint bubbles and a long, still quite youthful finish. I would love to give this excellent wine four or five years in the cellar to really let its secondary layers blossom. It will age long and gracefully. (Drink between 2024 - 2060)John Gilman | 93 JG

The smaller production 2015 Au Paradis is a more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated cuvée that checks in as 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc. Aged in 18 months in 50% new oak, it has a more masculine, mineral-laced style offering red and black currants, crushed rocks, chocolate, and spice. Deep, rich, concentrated, and in need of 4-6 years of cellaring, this Château Latour-lookalike is an awesome, classic Napa Cabernet Sauvignon!Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDA bright and vivid red with aromas of terracotta, fresh herbs, currants and blackberries. Some mint, floral notes and a touch of chocolate, too. Full body and ultra-fine tannins that are layered with ripe fruit. Love the length and beauty. Changes all the time in the glass. A fascinating wine.James Suckling | 98 JSPeter Michael’s 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Paradis captures the essence of this well-exposed site on Oakville’s Upper Plateau. Dark cherry, plum, sage, mint, kirsch, espresso and chocolate are explosive in this plush, deeply textured Cabernet Sauvignon. The 50% new oak adds a dollop of sweetness without overpowering the wine. This is a gorgeous 2015.Vinous Media | 95 VMThis is striking for its density, complexity, focus and range of flavors and textures, with initial scents of smoky oak running toward the seamless finish, offering notes of dark berry, cedar, crushed rock and fresh earth. Best from 2021 through 2032. 1,620 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WSFrom Peter Michael's only Napa Valley vineyard comes this polished, pretty wine with strong Cabernet Franc character. Explosive floral aromas lead to mouthcoating red and black fruits, suave tannins and an irony minerality. 100% new French oak.Decanter | 94 DECComposed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cabernet Franc, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Au Paradis has a deep garnet-purple color and nose of crushed blackcurrants, blackberries and mulberries with hints of menthol, violets, bay leaves and cloves, plus a waft of pencil shavings. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is energetic and yet tautly structured with firm, grainy tannins and a lively backbone framing the muscular fruit, finishing long and earthy. Give it 2-3 years in bottle and drink it over the next 25+. 1,620 cases were made.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

The 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is a slightly tweaked blend compared to the 2016 and includes a splash of Viognier. The blend is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier, which is a combination you don't see often, yet it makes sense, and the Viognier plays the role of Semillon seen in Bordeaux Blanc releases. Coming from a dry, hot year, it has a beautiful bouquet of Meyer lemons, honeysuckle, flowers, and hints of barrique. This carries to a seamless, full-bodied white that's flawlessly balanced, has a bright core of acidity, ample mid-palate depth, and a great finish. It's one seriously classy white I'd be thrilled to drink any time over the coming 4-5 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDA really beautiful, layered white with sliced lemons, limes, stones and hints of steel. Some lemon curd. Tight and solid with fine phenolics that give it structure and focus. Extremely poised and dignified. Drink now or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSThe previous vintage of this wine was made soley with Sauvignon Blanc, but as expected, the Ornellaia 2017 Ornellaia Bianco sees a small percentage of Viognier added to the blend. The exact percentage of the two components is 91% Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Viognier. If you are a fan of these grape varieties, as I am, this wine will appeal to all your basic pleasure points. Showing medium rich concentration and a creamy textural fiber, it reveals some of the weight that we associated with this hot and dry vintage. However, any trace of over-ripeness is mitigated by the cool soils that, in this case, consist of deep calcarious clay broken up by rocks at a breezy 80 to 100 meters above sea level. This consistency is perfect for locking in moisture even in drought vintages. The wine is fermented in oak, but no malolactic fermentation occurs, and the wine instead rests on the fine lees with frequent stirring. Orchard fruits and Cavaillon melon give the wine a sturdy center of gravity. Some 5,000 bottles were made, and this wine was released in April 2020.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPThe 2017 Ornellaia Bianco is impressive, especially within the context of the warm, dry year. Bright and focused, the Bianco shows the natural richness of the vintage - that is impossible to escape - but it also retains quite a bit of energy. Orchard fruit, citrus and floral notes are beautifully delineated throughout. Once again, the Bianco is a wine of real distinction.Vinous Media | 94 VMSubtle peach, passion fruit, elderflower and earth flavors converge in this white. There is a touch of oak adding a vanilla accent. Though lush in texture, this is also intense and long, with an echo of passion fruit and salty elements. Drink now through 2024. 75 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 91 WS

This wine always stands out in my mind, and it’s worth dedicating a few words as to why. Poggio Valente offers us a rare opportunity to taste Sangiovese made according to the highest standards but from a territory—on the Tuscan Coast—that does not share a big legacy with monovarietal Sangiovese reds. The Fattoria le Pupille 2019 Poggio Valente was born in a happy vintage with a cool spring and a growing season that had plenty of underground water reserves to keep the vines hydrated well until the end of August. This is a full and generous wine with dark cherry and wild plum aromas that segue to tar, licorice and crushed slate. My sample (tasted a few weeks after bottling) was a little shy initially, but it quickly blossomed in the glass.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThis is very dense and structured with stone and blackberry character. Full-bodied and intense with chewy tannins that frame the wine. Flavorful finish. Smoky and lightly bitter, in a good way. Pure sangiovese. This needs time to soften. Better after 2024.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2019 Poggio Valente is gorgeous. Bright and vibrant in the glass with terrific energy, the Poggio Valente is a fine example of the style favored here these days. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal, spice and orange zest complement a core of Sangiovese fruit. I especially like the vibrancy here. The 2019 is absolutely delicious. That’s all there is to it.Antonio Galloni | 93 AGA red with intensity on a weightless frame, leaving plenty of room for cherry, blackberry, chocolate, nutmeg and white pepper flavors to shine. The tannins are present, yet uplifting rather than obtrusive. Sangiovese. Best from 2023 through 2032. 2,900 cases made, 400 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Intense aromas of black cherries, black truffle, orange peel and Indian spices. The palate is full yet reserved, with very fine tannins that fly linear and deep in the wine. Caressing texture. Reserved at the end. A real beauty. From organically grown grapes. Drink after 2027.James Suckling | 96 JSBalsamic aromas of camphor and pine forest mingle with truffle and plum cake on the fragrant 2019 Brunello fro San Polino. It’s also delicious, with flavors of raspberry tart, plum cake, cinnamon and nutmeg accompanied by taut, fine-grained tannins that lend seamless support. Fresh acidity keeps it well balanced. Drink 2027–2039. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 95 KOFrom San Polino’s holdings in the northeast on loamy clay soil. Exuberantly youthful and becoming, the 2019 rings out with violet and oily balsamic herbs. It gives a midweight impression – yet is packed with brambly fruit. An orange peel flourish is heightened by zesty acidity. And as this opens, savoury iron depths are revealed. Promising but needs to come together. Solid, clayey tannins clamp down on the finish.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2019 Brunello di Montalcino wafts up with a dusty blend of dried flowers and strawberries enhanced by lemon oil touches. This is racy and sleek with cooling acidity and vividly ripe wild berry fruits lifted by orange and cedary spice. Its acidity wins the day, maintaining amazing freshness despite the grippy tannins that resonate throughout. The 2019 finishes long and staining with a pretty air of inner violet flowers that linger. San Polino continues to raise the bar; this is lovely.Vinous Media | 92 VM

Fèvre’s largest grand cru, with 4ha located higher up in Les Clos, meaning this is cooler climate and with much more chalk than Kimmeridgian. 50% of the vines were planted by William Fèvre’s father in the 1940s. Perfect balance between precision, concentration, acidity and ripe fruits, with oak that’s not at all apparent. A fresh, glorious wine.Decanter | 97 DECChoosing a favorite among the last three grand crus in the Domaine Fèvre lineup is simply impossible in 2020. The les Clos is yet another stunning young wine, offering up a refined and complex bouquet of pear, tart orange, fresh lime, flinty, chalky minerality, citrus peel, dried flowers and a nice touch of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and seamlessly balanced, with a beautiful harness of acidity, a great core of fruit and a very long, very minerally and oh, so complex young finish. A great wine by any measure! (Drink between 2032 - 2080)John Gilman | 97 JGThe 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is another brilliant effort from Fèvre’s immensely able winemaker, Didier Seguier, and his team. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of confit citrus, fresh bread, oyster shell, orange zest and crisp orchard fruit, it’s full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a concentrated, tensile profile and a long, intensely saline finish. It’s the broadest and most powerful wine in the range, while remaining quintessentially Chablisien.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPA cool, restrained and airy nose grudgingly divulges its combination of lemon rind, green apple, quinine and acacia blossom scents that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is again excellent volume and concentration to the powerful and muscular flavors that also coat the palate with dry extract on the impressively complex and hugely long finish. This is classic Les Clos in that it manages to be at once big and overtly powerful while remaining refined and classy. This is, in a word, stunning.Burghound | 96 BHThe 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from 10 parcels scattered mainly over the top of the hill. It has a well-defined, crisp and (for the vintage) quite austere nose due to the location higher up the slope. The fresh palate is nicely detailed with lime and lemon thyme and good salinity. Quite strict on the mineral-driven finish. Good potential, but it will need time.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMThis lemon- and green apple–infused white stays lean, racy and long, combining power and intensity. On the austere side today, with a mineral underpinning and chalky finish. Best from 2025 through 2038.Wine Spectator | 93 WS

A stellar wine, the 2020 Grattamacco is dark, vibrant and nuanced to the core. Black fruit, lavender, spice, leather, menthol and dried herbs infuse the 2020 with tons of character and complexity. Deep yet also wonderfully translucent, the 2020 is one of the most finessed Grattamaccos I can remember tasting. There’s incredible depth and resonance here, not to mention tons of personality.Vinous Media | 97 VMNext up is the 2020 Grattamacco, which really takes things up a notch. A deep ruby red, it offers decadent and harmoniously layered aromas of pristine oak spice, fresh leather, mossy earth, tobacco, and kirsch. Full-bodied and refined, it has a velvety texture, plush tannins, even acidity, and a long finish. This demands to be cellared and will continue to improve if adequately stored over the next two decades and likely beyond. Drink 2026-2046.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JD‘This vintage gifted generous fruit with excellent, crisp acidities, alongside clean-edged balsam and pungent Mediterranean scrub,’ said winemaker, Luca Marrone. The grapes are hand-harvested in vineyards with an average age of 25 years. Spontaneous fermentation occurs in 7hl oak vats with a frequent and gentle manual pigeage, enabling long macerations and slow release of only fully ripe and noble tannins. This wine was aged for 18 months in oak barrels and bottled in August 2022. Restrained cassis and Mediterranean herb scents are allied to fresher red fruits and a floral touch. It’s very well composed, demonstrating an elegant and juicy style with great integration of oak and youthful, chewy fruit. A Bolgheri to wait for – this is intended for the long haul.Decanter | 96 DECA nose that is luxuriously fruity also has undertones of salt, flint and herbs providing balance. The palate runs wild with fruit but simultaneously offers notes of dark chocolate and a subtle spiciness to keep things lively. Tannins are chalky and resilient, and persistent acidity holds up a long finish.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEAromatic nose of blackcurrants, berries and cherries, together with hints of flowers and smooth oak. Full-bodied with a super-clean and intense bead of fruit running through the lightly firm tannins to give a long, only lightly abrasive finish. From organically grown grapes. A classy, well-structured blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese. Drinkable now, but better from 2024.James Suckling | 94 JSThis 2021 Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso has a natural harmony and balance that is hard to beat. There is more of a range of delicate aromas on the nose, not just simply fruit or oak spice but little floral notes that come and go, a little hint of crushed rose petal or wild iris as well as bright cherry aromas and a very gentle background spice of oak. The nose is persistent and reveals layers of flowers and fruit, becoming more interesting in the glass. On the palate there is such a beautiful texture and weight and a real silkiness but without heaviness. The tannins are beautifully refined and harmonized within the wine and there is a cleansing sweep of refreshing acidity on the finish. This wine has a beautiful harmony to it. Supremely refined but with a strong sense of identity.The Wine Independent | 94 TWIElegant and linear in profile, this red boasts cherry, black currant, mineral, earth and Mediterranean scrub aromas and flavors. There’s fine tension and freshness, with a long, resonant aftertaste. Needs time. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Best from 2025 through 2042. 5,400 cases made, 430 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMouthwatering acidity and taut, grippy tannins provide an appealing structure for this wine’s juicy blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. Scents of lavender and notes of tobacco and black pepper add complexity to the lively purple fruit tones. Beautifully balanced and energetic, this wine is a versatile partner at the table and an excellent introduction to the wines of Bolgheri.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 92 W&S

This white is both austere and intense, exuding floral, lemon, mineral and pastry aromas and flavors matched to a lean, bracing frame. The flavors persist, picking up lanolin, rosemary and a chalky feel on the long finish. Best from 2025 through 2032. 46 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA touch of wood toast makes itself known on the otherwise similar if even more floral-suffused nose. The rich, powerful and imposingly concentrated larger-scaled flavors brim with both sappy dry extract and minerality on the massively persistent, balanced and agreeably dry finale. I generally don’t find a great deal of qualitative difference between the Hospices and the regular cuvée but in 2021 the Hospices has just bit more overall depth, at least at this early juncture.Burghound | 93 BHThe 2021 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices feels more closed than the regular cuvée, but there’s just a bit of flintiness developing with aeration in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine acidity, very harmonious and poised, though I am seeking a little more grip on the finish. Maybe this year, I might err more towards the regular cuvée.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA tiny bit more colour than Les Clos with a little bit more fruit weight but less elegance than the classical bottling. Some perfume here, richer and seemingly riper with some suggestion of peaches, followed by salinity. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: June 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

A brightly jeweled ruby hue, the 2021 Barbaresco is super-expressive, with loads of wild raspberries that leap from the glass along with notes of strawberries, pressed roses, fresh orange, and violet. As it opens, it evens picks up some spice box, cigar incense, and cherry notes. Crystalline in nature and ripe, this next-level red delivers ripe, sweet tannins, great tension, and fresh, vibrant acidity, without any austerity. A luxury racecar, it’s fantastic and possibly the wine of the year. Drink 2025-2055.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDThe 2021 classic Barbaresco from Gaja is drop-dead gorgeous. Made with 14 estate vineyards that are vinified separately before being assembled into the final blend, it’s all about finesse, delivering sensations of juicy raspberry, red cherry, cinnamon, camphor and white pepper before a long, star anise and saline mineral close. Taut, refined tannins and bright acidity provide the age-worthy structure. Drink 2027–2036. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 97 KO

With a much higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%, with 9% Cabernet Franc), the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is less floral than the Maya but more obviously fruity and up front. Bold black cherries and cassis lead the way, framed by gentle oak shadings of cedar and vanilla, backed by deep bass notes of rich loam and hints of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, the tannins are wonderfully judged, supple and velvety in one sip, then fine and silky in the next, while the finish lingers effortlessly, even if it lacks some of the seamless elegance of its sister.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe core blocks for the Cabernet come from those in front of the house (House Block) and from further down the west-facing hill and a block on the right-hand side of the driveway through the gate, which is typically a later ripening block that imparts good natural acidity, imparting focus and length to the wine. Those blocks are later blended with a barrel selection of the Cabernet Franc blocks from the property. The Cabernet Franc is roughly 30% of the entire vineyard. A towering wine in 2021, the estate’s Flagship is super compact, teeming with concentrated black-toned fruits and perfectly integrated cedarwood spices. The tannins are elliptical with a palate-coating pixelated quality that comes into focus as the wine opens to reveal scented rose petals and black cherry, Damson plums, and tobacco spices. Nuances of crushed cocoa nibs and fragrant graphite minerality add depth and intrigue. Extravagantly long on the finish, revealing even more dried floral notes, herbs, and subtle hints of Indian spices. Don’t even think of opening it until 2025 or 2026, and be sure to enjoy this wine, a bottle a year, at least for the next three decades or more. Maya Dalla Valle, the daughter of founder Naoko Dalla Valle, is the winemaker with Andy Erickson and Michel Rolland consulting, while Edgar Alfaro manages the vineyards.Decanter | 98 DECBased on 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc that was raised in 70% new oak, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon sports a deep purple hue as well as a captivating nose of ripe blueberries, pure cassis, spring flowers, and chocolate, with this beautiful sense of minerality. Deep, rich, and concentrated, with a full-bodied mouthfeel, it has flawless tannins and a great finish. I know all the attention here goes to the smaller production Maya release, but I continue to beat the drums regarding the incredible quality of the classic Cabernet Sauvignon from this brilliant estate.Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDComposed of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, the 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is opaque purple-black in color, bursting from the glass with vibrant blackberries, black raspberries, and black cherries scents, followed by suggestions of violets, chocolate box, and cardamom. The medium to full-bodied palate is bright and energetic, with fine-grained tannins and a lively backbone supporting the intense black fruit flavors, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Approachable now, it will benefit greatly from a couple of years in bottle should cellar for 25 years+.The Wine Independent | 97 TWIThis just feels special, as a focused, velvety wave of boysenberry, mulberry and black cherry reduction notes moves through steadily, carried by a graphite spine and laced throughout with iris and ganache accents. A terrific tug of cast iron is buried deeply on the finish. Best from 2025 through 2042. 1,100 cases made.Wine Spectator | 96 WSA full-bodied and refined cabernet sauvignon with notes of blackberries, dark plums, warm herbs and spice box. Serious, with fine yet firm tannins. Vivid core of spices on the velvety center-palate. The caressing touch of berries mingles harmoniously with the peppercorns and grilled herbs. Authentic and well-composed, with a focused, long and lively finish. Try after 2025.James Suckling | 95 JSThe 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon offers terrific density and power. Bright red-toned fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and rose petal are beautifully delineated. The 2020 is a bit lighter than usual, and the tannins are incisive, but at the same time all the elements are nicely balanced.Vinous Media | 92 VM

No written review provided | 97 DECFour plots all in Pernand. Pale in colour with ripe apple notes. The bouquet suggests a leaner style of wine than the palate delivers, which may be a question of being just after bottling. There is some complexity on the palate, a little lime, a phenolic touch. I don’t notice the 40% new wood, so there is clearly good fruit concentration.Jasper Morris | 92-95 JM

Notes of anise and mint, with demure hints of fruit, yet this is a wine of texture, detail and drive, demanding time. Very powerful and expansive, with a stony, phenolic drag across a prodigiously long finish. Wonderful performance. Best after 2028.James Suckling | 98 JSDauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. This has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years’ ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos.Decanter | 96 DECThe 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses unwinds in the glass with aromas of oyster shell, orange blossom, warm stones and subtle hints of citrus oil—this cuvée is almost always more about rocks than fruit. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and electric, it’s racy and tensile, with a long, resonant finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95-97 RPThe 2022 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru will be very seductive on the nose, discrete at first, unfurling with yellow plum, flint, touches of oyster shell and spice box. The palate is beautifully balanced with fine tannins, perfectly judged acidity, and hints of praline and orchard fruit. Completely harmonious with an irresistible finish, so much so that I cannot resist swallowing when I’m "on duty." Chablis firing on all cylinders - this is a long-term prospect.Vinous Media | 95-97 VMThe name of the vineyard is a version Pierreuses, referencing the huge blocks of stone underneath a reasonable marly topsoil. The 2022 displays a really complex nose, a bit of sun on the stones, the cailloux chauds of the amphitheatre in which Vincent Dauvissat’s holding sits. Then follows a massive development of fruit on the palate too. There is really a huge volume of fruit at the back, with a little iodine touch throughout. Makes one salivate! Drink from 2032-2045. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 94-97 JMMore elegant and cooler aromas include those of essence of apple, citrus zest, iodine and shellfish nuances. The rich, generously proportioned and gorgeously textured flavors are at once powerful yet refined; indeed there is a Zen-like character to the sneaky long, impeccably well-balanced and wonderfully harmonious finale. Marvelous and a wine that should age effortlessly over the next 12 to 15 years.Burghound | 93-96 BH

Delightfully ripe melon, lemon zest, sweet clove and vanilla oak characters perfectly befit this stylish wonder, which tumble gracefully over the generous structure and luxurious creamy texture, kept in check with a verve of expressive acidity.Decanter | 97 DEC