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The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet Chaumées Clos de la Truffières 1er Cru has a crisp, granite and jasmine-scented bouquet that blossoms nicely with aeration. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly-spiced, peachy with hints of guava towards the finish. Fine length, this is a delicious, what you might call "mouth-filling" Chassagne-Montrachet.Vinous Media | 92 VM

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Quatre Climats is a multi-climat blend mandated due to the frost. It has a well-defined, quite minerally nose, focused and gaining complexity with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a brisk opening, orange rind and lemon peel, a dab of lemongrass with a simple but persistent finish. Enjoy this over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

A beautifully layered nose offers up its combination of white orchard, fruit, resin, petrol and ripe citrus. There is impressive concentration to the caressing and generously proportioned but powerful medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract on the balanced finale. This could use better depth, but more should develop if it’s given a few years of keeping.Burghound | 92 BHale colour, white fruit, with a certain intensity, and there is a little crystalline note behind, a good framework to work from and I like the way this finishes. It began anonymously and ends with personality. Drink from 2025-2029.Jasper Morris | 89-92 JM

Droin’s vines have an average age of 50 years with 1.75ha on Kimmeridgian marl with some blue-clay (Marne-bleu). As expected from Montée de Tonnerre, this has more power on the palate but also displays a remarkable balance between weight and elegance - ’complet’ as Benoit Droin says. It would be a shame to drink this before 2-3 years and it will keep a very long time. Finishes with a vibrant hit spicy zesty fruit.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has perhaps the most austere bouquet amongst Droin’s Premier Crus, though it is very defined with subtle struck flint notes coming through. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh, superb acidity with real weight and concentration on the finish. Another superb wine from Droin this year.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMModerately generous wood stops short of fighting with the ripe white orchard fruit, wet stone and spice that also display just enough Chablis typicity to be interesting. A highly sophisticated mouthfeel suffuses the solidly dense middleweight flavors where an almost pungent minerality adds a sense of lift to the attractively dry and sneaky long finale. This beauty is a combination of power and refinement that should age effortlessly.Burghound | 91-94 BH

Droin’s Montmains site is on a gentle slope with richer, deeper, kimmeridgian marl soils. A colder site, making the wine richer and with great density on the palate. Distinctly more weight than the Vaillons, giving the blend plenty of gravitas. 8-10 months ageing on fine lees adds a creamy character with acidity less pronounced than with the Vaillons. Classy.Decanter | 92 DECAn even more floral-suffused nose speaks of the pretty essence of pear and apple while offering better overall typicity. The palate impression of the middleweight flavors is also plump, round and fleshy with its reasonably persistent, dry and balanced finale that also could use better depth. This attractive effort should be approachable young yet also reward 4 to 7 years of keeping.Burghound | 89-92 BHThe 2021 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru has a classic Chablis-like bouquet with scents of shucked oyster shell and light fumé notes emerging from the glass. The palate is well balanced with a saline, lemon rind infused entry, moderate weight, perhaps not quite as precise as the Vaillons yet with satisfying persistence. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

The 2021 Chablis Vosgros 1er Cru has quite a lot of reduction on the nose compared to the Village Cru. The palate is much more expressive, very harmonious and citrus-fresh, lime and orange rind, fine weight with a very smooth and satisfying finish. Don’t miss out on this delightful Vosgros - fresh and rich, as Benoît Droin mentions.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMVosgros is sometimes described as a ’left-bank’ premier cru with ’right-bank’ exposure. It is a valley which is very cold but has a sunny westerly exposition. Closed and precise at the moment, this spend 8-10 months on lees giving the wine a creamy yet elegant texture. A very classy premier cru, this will need several years to fully blossom.Decanter | 92 DECLike the Petit Chablis, moderate amounts of classic Chablis typicity are present on the lemon rind, white orchard fruit and petrol-scented nose. There is very good volume and punch to the delicious medium-bodied flavors that possess good muscle on the clean, dry and slightly austere finale that is supported by citrus-tinged acidity.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is pure and precise, revealing aromas of pear, crisp green apple, mint and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with racy acids and a saline finish, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA hint of reduction shaves the high notes from the otherwise pretty citrus, pear and soft floral scents. There is less volume but notably better refinement to the delicious, vibrant and well-detailed flavors that possess a suave mouthfeel while delivering fine length on the clean, bright and balanced finale that isn’t quite as complex, at least not yet.Burghound | 91 BH

Here too there is a touch of reduction though it’s light enough such that notes of honeysuckle and lemon-lime can be discerned. The texture of the medium-bodied flavors is again wonderfully refined while keeping the same impressive punch while displaying excellent cut on the bone-dry, youthfully austere and sneaky long finale. This is quite simply a gorgeous Pucelles and highly recommended.Burghound | 94 BHThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is at once incredibly elegant but also reticent, with bright acids that are especially prominent today, perhaps because of the lighter structure of the year. The 2021 will need time to come around, but I am optimistic. Tangerine oil, marzipan and lightly honeyed notes all lend nuance through the long, sustained finish. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 91-93 VM

Droin’s Fourchaume is located in the Vaupulent sector, on deep, clay-rich soils. A warmer site, this is a;ready very appealing with nice touches of baked apples and stone-fruit on the palate, with softer acidity and concentration. Although accessible early, this has the concentration to age extremely well and will deliver more saline aspects with more bottle age.Decanter | 92 DECA whiff of mineral reduction is present on the nose of pear and apple compote where there is just enough Chablis typicity to be convincing. The succulent, round and palate coating flavors possess good underlying tension while delivering solid depth and length on the delicious finish where the only nit is a hint of warmth.Burghound | 90-92 BHThe 2021 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru shows a little more reduction on the nose compared to other cuvées but a pleasant flintiness develops with time. The palate is well balanced with a cohesive entry, fine weight although it doesn’t quite deliver the same precision as the Mont de Milieu at the moment. Fine.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Droin have a sizeable 4.8ha of Vaillons, with five plots in Epinottes, Roncieres, Sechet, Chatains and Beugnons. This is always a super reliable blend as Benoit is able to draw on plots which work well in hot and cold vintages. A very fine premier cru with pronounced notes of white flowers, crisp acidity, some generous zesty citrus and a hint of stone fruit. Long and classy.Decanter | 93 DECThe 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a backward nose that needs more coaxing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite steely, lemon peel and touches of orange pith with quite a persistent finish. Fine.Vinous Media | 90-92 VMA lightly peppery, airy and cool nose freely offers up floral, white fruit and citrus nuances that exhibit just enough Chablis typicity to confirm where this is from. The plump, round and fleshy flavors possess a hint of natural sweetness that contrasts markedly with clean and bone-dry finish that offers good length but not quite the same complexity.Burghound | 89-92 BH

Droin owns 0.33ha in the renowned premier cru of Vaulorent. Benoît notes the higher incidence of limestone in the soils, giving more a more aromatic profile, great length and purity. Although the Droin premiers crus are all lovely wines, this is a distinct step up – a premier cru Chablis which would grace any table along with the world’s finest wines. Filigree, precise acidity on the palate – delicate, very refined, yet a wine which will last a very long time.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2021 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a more complex bouquet that matches the Mont de Milieu, real mineralité, struck flint scents blossoming in the glass. The palate is very cohesive with lemon and touches of apricot, spicy and very persistent on the finish. This is an excellent Chablis from Droin.Vinous Media | 91-93 VMSmoky white orchard fruit aromas enjoy added breadth in the form of acacia blossom, citrus rind and quinine. The exceptionally rich and solidly voluminous medium-bodied flavors display focused power and a subtle minerality on the clean, dry and more complex finale where a touch of wood appears. I very much like the persistence, and this should amply repay 6 to 10 years of keeping.Burghound | 91-93 BH

Firm reduction and a whiff of oak dominate the nose at present. Much more interesting are the beautifully textured, racy and detailed medium weight flavors that also possess a highly sophisticated mouthfeel while exhibiting stunningly good length on the bitter zest-inflected finish that goes on and on. This is terrific and easily delivers grand cru quality.Burghound | 94-96 BHMid lemon colour. As always, the bouquet rises above the others. I feel the need to keep on sniffing this! Brings a smile to the face. The 2021 Domaine Leflaive Pucelles offers such a complex mix of fruits, fresh apricot along with a mix of quality citrus, good density but above all a stylishness that expresses itself in a hugely long finish. Perfect balance with a lifted fresh elegance at the finish. This may yet earn a fifth star later in life. Drink from 2027-2035.Jasper Morris | 94-96 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a crisp, petrichor and green apple-scented bouquet, tight at first but opening up nicely with aeration. The palate is fresh and crisp with a subtle reduction at play, fine depth, lightly spiced with stem ginger and a dab of lemongrass towards the finish. This should drink nicely over the next decade.Vinous Media | 89-91 VM

Boillot waited until 29 September to pick the 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère, producing a mere 18 barrels. Unfurling in the glass with notes of pear, white flowers, hazelnuts, spices and beeswax, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a chiseled, concentrated profile and a long, saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-94 RPCool, airy and very pretty aromas of the essence of pear, exotic tea, spice and acacia blossom are trimmed in an admirably discreet touch of oak. Much like the Pucelles, the texture of the slightly bigger and more mineral-driven flavors is wonderfully refined and even more powerful on the explosively long, graceful and bone-dry finale. This is also highly recommended.Burghound | 94 BHGuillaume has pulled out the youngest vines, for rootstock reasons. Most of the old vines fortunately are on 3309C. But badly frosted, below 10 hl/ha. A little more yellow in the colour, a riper fruit, which then comes back to its roots on the palate. Sappy, Guillaume says, while there is a generosity in the mouth which has completely retained its balance. Very persistent. Drink from 2026-2032.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThe 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru, a Boillot monopole, is bright and nicely focused. This is the parcel that was most affected by frost. Production is 18 barrels as opposed to a more typical 75 or so. There’s good depth and intensity, but also a certain rawness that needs time to soften. This is another wine where acidity is especially prominent. - Antonio GalloniVinous Media | 90-92 VM

The 2022 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru Cuvée Guy Moreau, matured half and half in vat and barrels, has a cohesive nose with shucked oyster shells infusing the citrus fruit. Quite classic in style. The palate is well-balanced with impressive depth and elegance. Sapid towards the finish with gentle grip, this Cuvée Guy Moreau is extremely promising.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA slightly cooler nose reflects notes of white pepper and a touch of the exotic while the wood treatment, while subtle, is a bit more noticeable. The old vines are in evidence as the mouthfeel of the medium-bodied flavors is markedly denser as the sappy extract coats the palate while buffering the moderately firm acid spine shaping the very dry, more complex and slightly long finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-93 BH

More volume and concentration without the pucker and rockiness typical of the Montee de Tonnerre. This is a real crowd pleaser. A confluence of stone and orchard fruit on the palate. It shows old-vine power from a warmer site. While this is an ersatz grand cru for many, this doesn’t quite deliver the clarity of some of its siblings. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSA brilliant wine in the making, Dauvissat’s 2022 Chablis 1er Cru La Forest unfurls in the glass with youthfully reductive scents of citrus oil, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, oyster shell and subtle hints of orange blossom. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with superb depth at the core and an electric finish, this cuvée has navigated the vintage’s extremes with ease.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93-96 RPThe 2022 Chablis Fôrets 1er Cru, taken from a feuillette, has a detailed, dried honey and sous-bois-tinged bouquet, gaining delineation as it opens in the glass. The palate is quite citric on the entry, with fine tension, plenty of energy and a tightly wound and precise finish. Wonderfully focused, this Premier Cru conveys elegance and grace.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMThe barrels are in the grand cru part of the cellar for once. Clear pure pale lemon colour. The bouquet is classic but not yet very developed. Everything is entirely there but less demonstrative. The structure of this wine is so impressive, pure white ripe apple, but stretches so far back on the palate, before a slightly more saline finish. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 92-94 JMThere is ample citrus influence suffusing the nose that could be from nowhere else but Chablis with its array of seashore, algae and oyster shell scents. The caressing but notably denser and more powerful larger-bodied flavors coat the palate while retaining an attractive texture on the strikingly persistent finish that is shaped by bright acidity. This can’t match the MdT for refinement but it is presently more complex and should age just as well.Burghound | 91-94 BH

A very precise, high-quality example, with weight and ripeness on the palate coming from vines which are planted on very thick soils over Marne bedrock. Touch of bitterness on the finish. Attractive, forward and floral Vaillons.Decanter | 93 DECA mere 200 meters from the meager soils of Sechet, this is a site with more clay. A more voluminous expression, rounder and mouth-filling, with a note of phenolics as much as freshness. Tangerines with hints of stone fruit and nuts. An easy wine to love, without quite the pixelated freshness and exquisite detail of the Sechets. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 93 JSBursting with notes of white flowers, orange zest, nutmeg and iodine, the 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons is medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with bright acids and a long, expansive and perfumed finish. As ever, its expressive, charming style makes it something of the more-mineral Séchet’s alter ego.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThe 2022 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru has a rather strict nose, backward with crushed stone and fleeting white flowers. The palate has a lovely rondeur on the entry with white peach and nectarine, those deep clayey soils giving depth and persistence to the finish. Quite powerful, but it will need time.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMA markedly more floral-infused nose reveals additional notes of white pepper, tidal pool, iodine and plenty of citrus elements. There is a bit more volume to the beautifully textured medium weight flavors that possess excellent punch while keeping a similar level of refinement on the balanced, focused and lingering finale. This is pretty much textbook Vaillons.Burghound | 91-93 BHPale lemon yellow. This is very classy, purer and fresher, with all the little stones queuing up at the end of the palate, savoury but with fresh white fruit all around, much less dry than Séchet. Fine long finish. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted: May 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Restrained and with notable concentration, this is an intense premier cru with great potential. Notes of peach fruit cut with zesty lime citrus. Very fine. From 68-year-old vines on very dense, white clay soils which are like concrete when dry, heavy when wet.Decanter | 94 DECThe 2022 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from vines around 70 years old, only slightly older than the regular cuvée, but on different soils (white clay rather than brown with high fossil content). It is usually bottled slightly later. The nose is a little more expressive with hints of red cherries and peach skin - very well defined. The palate is well-balanced with more harmony than the regular cuvée, a crisp line of acidity and touches of oyster shell on the saline finish. Great persistence here. Excellent.Vinous Media | 92-94 VMSmall millerand crop that ripened early. Pale in colour without too much nose. Nicely balanced on the palate though, a more tightly knit white fruit than the regular bottling, with a little lemon zest, and a balanced long finish. Picked at the right moment I suspect. Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: June 2023.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JMThis is similar to the regular cuvée except that it seems ever-so-slightly riper. By contrast, there is better concentration and power to the medium-bodied flavors and, somewhat unusually, the mouthfeel is finer as well, particularly on the more complex if also more austere finale. Lovely.Burghound | 90-93 BH