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(Vouvray “la Goutte d’Or”- Domaine François Pinon) I had never previously tasted the 1990 Vouvray “la Goutte d’Or” from Domaine François Pinon and this has to be one of my absolutely favorite wines from the vintage! This is not as heavily botrytized as say, the 1990 la Goutte d’Or from Domaine Foreau, but it is so deep, intensely flavored and precise that it has to be ranked at that same exalted level, despite it not being as rich and powerful. In fact, this has more of a 1989 character than a 1990 one, which is as high a praise as I can come up with for Vouvray, as 1989 is unequivocally my favorite vintage in the Touraine in the last forty years! The wine offers up a stunningly beautiful and vibrant bouquet of apricot, tangerine, tea leaves, salty soil tones, barley sugar and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and laser-like in its focus, with a great core, bright, zesty acids and stunning complexity and balance on the refined and endless finish. Sheer brilliance! (Drink between 2019-2070)John Gilman | 97 JG

From 45-year-old vines, macerated for 30-35 days ("just infusion, no extraction") and aged in old barrels for 12 months plus six months in tanks, the 2016 Anjou Cabernet Franc is pure and intense on the nose that reveals finely concentrated raspberry, red cherry and tobacco aromas. Pure, intense and fresh on the palate, this is a silky-textured, refined and elegant red with fine tannins and vibrantly mineral acidity. Tart on the finish but full of character. Excellent. Bottled at the end of April 2017.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPWhile this wine has some age, it still shows considerable acidity. A light touch of tannin and plenty of perfumed fruitiness give a wine that has structure and that will age. Drink from 2021.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEA very charming version, with tobacco leaf and oregano notes framing the core of dark cherry and mulberry, while spice details glide along the edges. Well-integrated tannins provide support, creating good balance overall. Drink now through 2024. 1,250 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Harvested from a small parcel, less than four acres, this wine is in perfect condition. It is balanced, with white fruit and citrus coming together, led by the acidity. It is developing into a full, ripe wine. Wait until 2019.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE(Pouilly-Fumé “Clos des Chaudoux”- Domaine Serge Dagueneau et Fille) The 2016 Clos des Chaudoux Domaine Serge and Valerie Dagueneau is an outstanding bottle of Pouilly-Fumé. This is unique in the family’s lineup, as these fifty-five year-old sauvignon blanc vines are actually planted on terres blanches limestone, rather than flint. The wine is quite tropical in its fruit complexion in 2016, offering up notes of pineapple, tangerine, just a touch of damp grass, beautiful chalky minerality and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied, focused and complex, with plenty of secondary development already showing, but coupled to a good girdle of acidity and plenty of cut and grip on the long finish. With the frosts of 2016, this wine may be just a touch idiosyncratically styled in this vintage, but it has depth, beaucoups complexity and impressive backend length. I decanted the wine to let it blossom and consume some of its initial aromatic oddities, and I really liked the wine after that. It is never going to make you forget a great vintage of Didier Dagueneau’s Pur Sang, but it is loaded with personality all the same! (Drink between 2019-2030)John Gilman | 91 JG

The 2017 Pouilly Fumé Prédilection is from several terraces on Muschelkalk soils and located closer to the Loire, so they benefit from cool afternoon breezes and nights. The wine opens pure and crunchy on the nose when young, with stony aromas intermixed with notes of white fruit but gets more and more floral with bottle age. The palate is powerful, dense and complex, showing serious substance, tannins and length but also elegance and terroir expression. The finish is lush but also pure and salty and structured by very fine tannins. It’s a crystalline, refined and elegant style with a very long finish. Tasted in February 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThis wine takes its minerality from the chalk soil in which the vines grow. It has considerable texture as well as perfumed richness and dense white fruits accented by spice. The wine is ready to drink.Wine Enthusiast | 91 WEVery pure and smoky, with a peach, apricot and elderflower fragrance and a fabulously expressive mineral acid undercurrent.Decanter | 90 DEC

The 2018 Anjou Violette is deep, rich and very intense but elegant on the pure and refined nose, with dark fruit, tea and kumquat aromas. Full-bodied, deep and generous on the palate, this is a full-bodied, rich and generous, silky-textured, refined and tensioned Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon blend that is one of the highlights of the vintage. Fabulous! A must buy! Tasted at the domaine in June 2021.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPSvelte, moderate tannins envelope plum and cassis notes in this medium-bodied red, with details of loamy earth, savory spice, tobacco and forest floor. Complex and harmonious. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2031. 500 cases made, 98 cases imported. Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe 2018 Anjou Cuvée Violette is full-bodied and rounded, offering a soft embrace. True to its name, it does smell of violets as well as wood smoke, spice and dark black fruits. There’s concentration here, no doubt due to the low yields off 70-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines and the 45-year-old Cabernet Franc. The tannins have been well handled and provide a frame of chalky structure. The merest whiff of barnyard meets the florals on the finish, but it’s kept in check.Vinous Media | 91 VM

(Saumur-Champigny- Domaine Filliatreau) Domaine Filliatreau is now all certified organic for its viticulture and its Château Fouquet is about to be certified biodynamic. This bottling is made from forty year-old vines and is aged in tank prior to bottling. The 2019 version is excellent, offering up a superb bouquet of black cherries, dark berries, tobacco leaf, a lovely base of soil, espresso and a hint of tree bark in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and juicy at the core, with good soil undertow, well-integrated tannins and a long, nicely balanced and focused finish. This is complex and just starting to blossom properly, but it has the structure to also age for many more years, though like the la Grande Vignolle bottling, this too is sealed with a synthetic cork. (Drink between 2021-2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

As the 2019 vintage was the last that Marc Ollivier crafted wines at Domaine de la Pépière, prior to his retirement the following year, it is fitting that all of his Crus from 2019 are among the finest young Muscadets that I have ever had the pleasure to taste. His Monnières- Saint Fiacre from the vintage is a stunning young wine, soaring from the glass in a blaze of tart orange, bread fruit, ocean breeze, wet stone minerality, a beautiful foundation of sweet leesy tones and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is pure, precise and full-bodied, with outstanding depth at the core, lovely acids and grip, superb soil signature and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. This is a great young Muscadet and a fitting last vintage of Monnières- Saint Fiacre from Marc Ollivier! (Drink between 2023 - 2065)John Gilman | 95+ JGMatured 36 months, the 2019 Monnières Saint-Fiacre exhibits aromas of menthol, spices, tangerine and lemon oil. Layered, creamy and moderately weighted, it’s precise and clean with a delicate yet bitter finish with licorice hints and hazelnut scents.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RP

The 2020 Savennières “la Jalousie” bottling from Domaine du Closel is nicely low in octane in this vintage, tipping the scales at twelve percent alcohol. The bouquet is bright and complex, hopping from the glass in a vibrant mix of sweet quince, flinty, chalky soil tones, citrus peel, lanolin and a gentle floral topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, focused and zesty, with a good core of fruit, lovely soil signature, a fine spine of acidity and impressive length and backend lift on the long, complex and well balanced finish. This is lovely young Savennières. (Drink between 2023 - 2050)John Gilman | 92 JGA racy, linear style introduced by pureed apple and crunchy orchard fruit edged in honeycomb. Shows wet stone accents that line the lean palate, with delicate floral notes. An upright, focused version, thanks to flint shavings and vibrant acidity. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

The 2020 Muscadet “la Louvetrie” from Jo Landron is crafted mostly from vines that are thirty to forty years of age, with some younger vine fruit also included. The wine delivers a lovely bouquet of breadfruit, lemongrass, briny maritime scents, wet stone minerality and a nice touch of leesiness. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a good core and mineral drive, zesty acids and a good long finish that is just a touch pinched today on the backend from its screwcap. Fifteen minutes in decanter unlocks the wine completely on the finish, but the early signs of reduction issues would lead me to drink this wine in the next year or two, rather than tucking it away in the cellar. Once it opens up on the backend, it is very good. (Drink between 2022 - 2024)John Gilman | 92 JG

I love every wine that Mary Taylor chooses and this 2020 Muscadet from Madame Jacqueline Delaunay is no exception. Her 2020 Muscadet is right in it sweet spot of evolution today, offering up a bright and complex bouquet of lime, breadfruit, ocean breeze, gentle leesy tones, wet stone minerality and a gentle topnote of lime blossoms. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and nicely mineral in profile, with a good core, a lovely spine of acidity, impeccable balance and focus and a long, complex and zesty finish. Fine juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 91 JG

Some buttery notes emerge under the delicate lemony characters, giving depth and seamless balance to the zingy acidity. It should develop additional complexity with more time in bottle. Montée de Bouffant is a parcel on steep slopes at 240m above the village of Chavignol. The grapes are harvested by machine and fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel and then aged for six months. The first record of the 35-hectare domaine is from 1510 and Laurent Reverdy, who took over from his father Alain in 2000, is the 14th generation.Decanter | 93 DEC

The Menetou-Salon from Kevin and Karine Lauverjat is a fine bottle that really shows the bright, cooler vintage characteristics of 2021. The bouquet offers up a complex blend of limepeel, gooseberry, fresh-cut grass, a lovely base of flinty minerality and a topnote of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, complex and nicely grassy in personality, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, a good spine of acidity and impressive length and grip on the well-balanced finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2030)John Gilman | 91 JG

This stellar Sancerre is a remarkable expression of the Sauvignon Blanc grape. This wine captivates the senses with an enchanting mélange of aromas, featuring vibrant notes of pink grapefruit, pear and green apple. These scents are harmoniously balanced, offering a fresh and crisp bouquet that invites you to delve deeper. The wine’s crisp acidity and mineral undertones contribute to its refreshing character, making it an excellent companion for a variety of dishes, from seafood to goat cheese. What truly sets this Sancerre apart, however, is its long, lingering finish. Sokolin Tasting Panel | 94+ SP

Exhibiting a delicate, subtle bouquet of oak reduction, white orchard fruits and flowers, the 2022 Sancerre Les Chasseignes possesses a medium to full-bodied, satiny and deep palate with a seamless texture, a fleshy core of fruit and a long, saline, ethereal finish. Matured for 14 months in barrels, this Sancerre, crafted from vines planted on chalky soils at the top of hillsides facing northeast, is simply stunning.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95 RPThe 2022 Les Chasseignes is a silky, richly textured Sancerre with a volume sensation in the mouth. There’s an impression of sweet fruit and glycerol, which coats the palate on the long finish. Gently refreshing rather than bright, this marks a departure from the previous racy vintage.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

This bottling is made from the same tuffeau-based vineyard as the Silex Noir and Trois Argile Demi-Sec bottlings from Domaine Pinon. It is handled the same in the cellars as the regular Sec bottling, with indigenous yeast fermentation and aging in a variety of older, large oak barrels. The wine offers up a beautifully refined aromatic constellation of apple, sweet quince, bee pollen, white lilies, a gorgeous base of chalky soil tones and a nice touch of lanolin in the upper register. On the palate the wine is vibrant, focused and full-bodied, with a rock solid core, superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and great balance on the long, complex and very precise finish. This is outstanding juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2022 Les Déronnières Sec is the domaine’s limestone-derived dry Chenin that sits almost above the cellars on the appellation’s premiere cotes. Julien Pinon calls it a parcel for lazy people (!) as it’s easier to maintain than clay parcels, leading to better drainage, fewer frosts and requiring less work while making smaller bunches with smaller berries. It may offer tenderness initially but remains a fresh, well-defined style. There is plenty of concentration here, and the balance is impeccable. In addition to attractive apple fruit, it has spiced pastry flavors.Vinous Media | 93 VM

Situated just 100 meters from the estate, the 2022 Sancerre Les Denisottes plot spans a modest 1.3 hectares of clay and calcareous soils known as “terres blanches” in Sancerre. Evoking a pure, delicate bouquet of ripe orchard fruits, spices, pear and licorice, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and mouth coating with a seamless texture, a fleshy core of fruit and a tense, ethereal, delicate finish enhanced by notes of citrus. Matured for 14 months in large wood barrels, this wine has the potential to gracefully reach its 15th anniversary in fine form.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94+ RPThe 2022 Les Denisottes offers ripe fruit and tenderness. The clay-chalk soils provide a mouth-filling texture. And yet, it maintains a line of tension and purpose that you might not have anticipated on the first sip. The structured grip on the finish offers assurance and a frame for this wine to mature nicely. It is long and scented with nectarine, honeydew melon and subtle oak-derived nuances.Vinous Media | 93 VM

The 2022 Saumur Blanc from Lena Filliatreau is a lovely wine. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a vibrant blend of sweet quince, lemon, chalky soil tones, limepeel, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and very well balanced finish. Fine juice that is already quite easy to drink, but will be even better with a few years’ worth of bottle age. (Drink between 2023 - 2040)John Gilman | 92 JG

The 2022 Muscadet “la Pépiè” from Domaine de la Pépière is a lovely wine on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is bright and precise, wafting from the glass in a mix of lemon, breadfruit, dried flowers, lovely leesy tones, wet stone minerality and a briny topnote of damp ocean breeze. On the palate the wine is bright, ripe and full-bodied, with a lovely girdle of acidity, superb mineral drive, fine focus and a long, perfectly balanced and complex finish. First class juice. (Drink between 2023 - 2035)John Gilman | 91+ JG

The 2022 vintage of Muscadet “les Gras Moutons” from Domaine de la Pépière is a beautiful wine, offering up a precise and complex bouquet of lemon, breadfruit, wet stone minerality, dried flowers and a discreet foundation of leesy tones. On the palate the wine is vibrant, full-bodied, focused and complex, with superb depth of fruit at the core, lovely mineral drive and grip, zesty acids and a long, impeccably balanced and very, very classy finish. This is superb Muscadet! (Drink between 2023 - 2055)John Gilman | 94 JG

I was drinking 2014 Leflaive Batard Montrachet, which was an epic $1,000 bottle by the way, and then popped this Sancerre. To my surprise, it just exploded from the glass, and in complete opposition to the weight of the Batard Montrachet, the Sancerre’s purity and laser- like precision stood out big time. Most Sancerres are fun for being light and grassy, but this is the next level connoisseur Sancerre. It has the purity and elegance of the wine I was drinking beside it, yet it’s only $39.99 / bottle. Best of breed.Dave Sokolin | 95+ DSThe 2022 La Cotes des Monts Damnés is a ripe, full-bodied style with power and weight. It is pure, fragrant and attractive even in youth, with floral and richly fruity characters - all nectarine and pineapple flavors. Expect a concentrated, intense wine that retains a sense of purpose and a lightly chalky texture. One for the long haul.Vinous Media | 93 VM

There’s complexity and depth to this racy, seductive white. With time in glass, layers of white peach, verbena and white blossoms emerge, coursing alongside fresh thyme, oyster shell minerality and briny saltiness. Shows plenty of zip through the long and textured finish. Drink now through 2030. 667 cases made, 250 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSA well-rounded, precise and focused Sancerre with aromas of quince peel, leaves, stones and hints of guava. It’s medium- to full-bodied with bright acidity and a dense core of juicy fruit and spices. Mouthwatering finish with excellent persistence. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JSThis Sancerre is a delight. The gold-hued wine has a rich, perfumed nose of peach blossom, baked apple and self-confidence. Honeysuckle and orange blossom support complex orchard fruit on the palate whose finish is satisfying and tart-leaning.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

The 2023 Sancerre “l ’Authentique” from Domaine Thomas-Labaille is a beautiful, classic example and augurs very well for other bottlings from this next vintage in the pipeline. The wine offers up a superb bouquet of gooseberry, lime, fresh-cut grass, an excellent base of limestone minerality, citrus blossoms and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is bright fullbodied, complex and nicely balanced, with a fine core of ripe fruit, superb soil transparency and grip, bright acids, lovely focus and bounce and a long, complex and vibrant finish. Lovley Sancerre. 2024-2032+. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG

Is it a Rosé or is it a Sancerre? It’s the best of both. It has the crisp refreshing aspects that we adore about Sancerre, but it’s pink and super refreshing for summer and is the highest level of both.Dave Sokolin | 94+ DS