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As it’s always been, the still plum/ruby-colored 1989 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin is a richer, more powerful version of the 1990. Classic dark fruits, melted licorice, truffle, earth, and garrigue notes all just come jumping out of the glass, and it’s deep, full-bodied, and just a beast of a wine. Fully mature, yet still with a stacked mid-palate, this awesome wine should be consumed any time over the coming 10-15 years. The 1989 is the first vintage for this special cuvee, which was created as a tribute to the late Jacques Perrin, who passed away in 1978. Aged all in foudre and almost always a blend of 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 10% Counoise and the rest Syrah, it’s only produced in top vintages and there are a scant 400-500 cases to go around in each vintage.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe first vintage for this cuvee, the still inky colored 1989 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage À Jacques Perrin is deeper, richer and more powerful than the 1990, yet slightly less evolved and exuberant. From a scorching hot and dry year, this incredible cuvee is massive on all counts, with classic dark fruits, roasted herbs, charred meats, melted licorice and truffle aromas and flavors, full-bodied richness, a dense, layered, multidimensional texture and a blockbuster finish that just wouldn’t quit. Like the 1990, there’s certainly some evolution here, and it’s a gorgeous drink today, but it should easily continue to evolve through 2030+.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RP(Châteauneuf du Pape “Hommage à Jacques Perrin”- Château de Beaucastel (mag)) The 1989 Hommage à Jacques Perrin was the inaugural vintage for this luxury cuvée, and to my palate, it remains still the finest example by quite some margin. None of the subsequent vintages have been able to match the depth and elegant grandeur of the 1989 Hommage bottling, and this is one of the greatest examples of Châteauneuf du Pape produced in the twentieth century! The 1989 Hommage à Jacques Perrin was a last-minute inclusion to our tasting lineup, as our host, Omar Khan, “found a stray magnum and thought it would be an interesting addition.” That is classic Omar understatement! The wine is absolutely at its apogee as it closes in on its thirtieth birthday, offering up bottomless depth and brilliant complexity on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is brilliant, delivering a very refined blend of sweet dark berries, cassis, a touch of tree bark, a complex base of soil tones, cigar smoke, a dollop of saddle leather and lovely, haunting botanicals in the upper register. On the palate the wine full-bodied, pure, complex and rock solid at the core, with great soil signature, glorious focus and grip and just a whisper of backend tannin continuing to perk up the very, very long, refined and magical finish. This is even better out of magnum than it is out of regular format! (Drink between 2019 - 2050)John Gilman | 98 JGVisually it's starting to show its age now, a touch of brown to the crimson. Some polished wood notes, it has the intriguing worn smell of an antique shop. There's a little volatile acidity lift, the aromas show a balsamic vein, almost a slightly madeirised tang. On the palate there's more: coffee bean, vanilla fudge, Lapsang Souchong tea and stewed plum. Generous on the palate still, with appealing sucrosity and great length. This will be as old as some wine lovers would want it to be, but it won't fall apart any time soon. Still some tannin and fruit, but it's fading now. A stately old wine, and a very correct one.Decanter | 97 DECRh?ne lovers were out in full force on this night. Sadly, I only got to taste a handful of the wines being passed around. Still, these were four of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Where to start? Beaucastel’s Hommage a Jacques Perrin is one of my very favorite wines. The 1989 was absolutely singing, with seemingly endless layers of silky-textured fruit.Vinous Media | 97 VM

A blockbuster red wine, delivering heavyweight power with amazing finesse. Thick, ripe, rich and superextracted, it's inky-dark, full-bodied, tastes of the earth, cassis and blackberry, mocha and spice, ink, iron, mineral and blood, with a massive amount of full, ripe and sweet tannins. A monumental effort from the Northern Rhône. Best from 2005 through 2020. 500 cases made. —Wine Spectator | 98 WSThere are three luxury cuvees of Hermitage in 1996. A new cuvee, and potentially a perfect wine, is the 1996 Hermitage l'Hermite. Three thousand bottles are produced from a small parcel of old vines (believed to be over 100 years old) located close to the tiny white chapel on the steepest part of the Hermitage hill. Yields were 9 hectoliters per hectare. A totally different expression of Hermitage, this is a blockbuster, dense, chewy, highly extracted, monster Hermitage the likes of which consumers and professionals rarely encounter. The opaque purple/black color, gorgeously sweet nose of minerals and cassis fruit, unctuous texture, and thick, brooding power and richness is the stuff of legends. However, this wine is extremely high in tannin, and has tangy acidity (a hallmark of the 1996 vintage), so it will need a minimum of 10-15 years of cellaring. Are readers paying attention? Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040.Robert Parker | 96-100 RP(Maison Chapoutier Hermitage L'Ermite) Deep ruby-violet color. Liqueur-like aromas of kirsch, smoked meat, licorice, minerals and cocoa powder. Great sweetness on entry, then completely wrapped up in its structure. But this wine is fat and packed with black fruit and violet flavor. Powerful tannins are a bit dustier than those of Chapoutier's '96 Ermitage Le Pavillon. At once large-scaled and quite refined. Impressive.Vinous Media | 92-95 VM

Wow – immediately as you lift the glass it's clear that this is the essence of Hermitage. Smoky berry fruits soar from the glass, joined by notes of perfumed cigar box, smoky bacon, bonfire smoke, star anise and incense. It's full and cooling on the palate, with no excess weight despite its breadth and depth of flavour. Lovely sappy berry acidity runs through it, leading to a long, weightless, saline finish. A really precise and fine wine, highly complex, well balanced and classically Hermitage. Drinking Window 2019 - 2040.Decanter | 100 DECSpiced melon fruits, wet stones and dried yellow flowers with a honeysuckle edge. This has aged beautifully with the fat rendering from the palate over time to deliver a composed and smooth-edged core of melons, minerals and a fresh, toasty finish. This sits in a superb zone as a complete, mature white. Drink now.James Suckling | 98 JSThe 1998 Hermitage showed beautifully, with an almost Burgundian, elegant style. Possessing lots of minerality and liquid rock like nuances as well as plenty of darker fruits, leather and earthy nuances, it glides across the palate with a medium to full-bodied, layered, seamless texture. The tannin are relatively resolved and while mature, it’s going to continue evolving gracefully for another decade. It’s a beautiful, mature, elegant wine from Chave.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 1998 Hermitage is also gorgeous, yet has more concentration and depth. Described as a “granite year” by Jean-Louis, this puppy has searing, liquid rock-like qualities to go with ample dark fruit, gunpowder and flint. Structured, firm and backward, yet with a rock-star mid-palate and finish, give it another 3-5 years and drink bottles through 2028.Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPOpens with a vibrant berry, chocolate, Asian-spice, rosemary, olive and bacon-fat nose so good you linger before tasting. Sour cherry, licorice, brush, leather and a meaty note show on the palate. The wine is lean yet velvety, with powerful, deep structure. It closes with full, ripe tannins, notes of black tea and pepper. Cellar this keeper until 2004, drink through 2015+.Wine Enthusiast | 95 WEFull ruby. Subtle, extremely complex nose melds cassis, bitter cherry, licorice, menthol and gunflint. Great purity and class in the middle palate, though extremely young and not currently showing the texture of the unfinished '99. But this is utterly compelling syrah, finishing with superb length and extremely fine tannins for the vintage. The '99 may be more pliant in the early going thanks to its sweeter tannins, but I'm not yet convinced it will surpass this brilliant '98.Vinous Media | 94+ VMOffers very enticing floral, dried currant, cherry and blood orange notes, with twinges of cedar, mesquite and clove. Lots of perfumy spice, but no edges. Supple and polished. Fully mature, but with the balance and freshness to hold here a while.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2025. 2,000 cases made.Wine Spectator | 93 WS(Chave Hermitage) The hype surrounding the 1998 Chave was in full roar months before the wine was ever released, and one has to wonder if anyone doing the hyping had really tasted this polite, modestly-scaled vintage of Chave. The nose is pretty and elegant, offering up notes of blackberries, licorice, road tar, hot stones, vanillin oak and violets. On the palate the wine is only medium-full, with only modest depth on the attack, but good focus and balance, and a good bit of grip on the modestly tannic finish. This is a pretty vintage of Chave that may end up quite perfumed and complex, but unless it puts on some weight in the middle, it may always seem a bit insubstantial. Not a bad wine by any stretch of the imagination, but not a great Chave either. (Drink between 2006-2025).John Gilman | 90+ JG

The 1998 Ermitage Le Pavillon flirts with perfection ... again. Revealing a striking bouquet of violets, blackberries, smoke, licorice, and minerals, it is luxuriously rich, full-bodied, and layered on the palate. It is a wine with a finish that lasts beyond a minute. Remarkably, yields were a mere 10 hectoliters per hectare. There is plenty of tannin in the finish, but it is ripe and well-integrated. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050.Robert Parker | 98 RPFresh ruby-red. Fruit-driven, very primary aromas of cassis, wild cherry, leather and pepper. Lush, rich and deep; showing more sweetness and texture today than the more backward Meal. This large-scaled wine has superb density and clarity of flavor. Finishes with big, ripe tannins and outstanding length. Perhaps more complete than the Meal.Vinous Media | 94 VM

Jean-Louis, the son of Gérard Chave, is now in charge of the family business, as well as being president of the Hermitage wine producers. He is continuing the family tradition of making powerful statements of Syrah from Hermitage, combining massive structure and over-powering perfumes. This 1999 seems to have the best of the traditional world of tannic immensity and the modern world of beautiful, ripe fruit. A wine that will age for a very long time.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEAlways pure class and incredibly classic in style, the 1999 Hermitage is not fully mature yet has another 15 years of prime drinking. Ruby-hued with no signs of bricking, it offers textbook red and black fruits as well as smoked meat, camphor, crushed rock, and peppery herbs. Playing in the medium to full-bodied end of the spectrum, it's balanced, seamless, and just a gorgeous Hermitage from one of the world's greats.Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDThe 1999 Hermitage is huge, with a deep, enveloping core of dark red and black fruit, smoke, tobacco and cured meats. Wild overtones run through the finish. Today the 1999 does not appear to be an especially refined Hermitage, but at the same time, I would be tempted to cellar bottles for a few years, as the density of the fruit is almost overpowering, especially next to some of the more polished wines that follow.Vinous Media | 95 VMNow starting to hit a second phase, this has perfumy, singed balsam wood, dried currant and blood orange fruit and orange rooibos tea notes all gliding on a fine-grained finish where sanguine and white pepper notes flicker through. Still has an ample core of plum and red currant fruit, with a nice tug of earth for grip.Wine Spectator | 95 WSMore in the style of the ’01, the 1999 Hermitage is a serious effort that gives up a mineral-drenched profile of red and blackcurrants, beef blood, iron and dried flowers. More forward on the nose than the palate, with a tight, yet seamless texture that carries ample concentration and length, with bright acidity, it should continue to shine for another decade.Located in the tiny village of Mauves, just south of Hermitage, lies one of the true bastilles of traditionally made wines, and there are few vinous experiences that surpass getting to taste through the different terroirs of Hermitage and Saint Joseph in Chave’s cellar. Founded in 1481, Chave has seen a long succession of generations, with Gerard Chave, who was born in 1935, slowly beginning to hand over the reins to his brilliant son, Jean-Louis (born in 1968), in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Today, the estate stays firmly planted in tradition, yet is far from resting on its laurels or reputation, completing work on a new cellar (just across the street from their existing cellar and connected via a tunnel) in 2014, and working hard on a number of new vineyard sites. While this new cellar includes a state-of-the-art lab, Jean-Louis was quick to point out, “you don’t need a lab to make great wine.” In addition, and along with the help of Jean-Louis’ wife, Erin Cannon-Chave, they’ve continued to grow their negociant label, Chave Selection, which offers fabulous bang-for-the-buck and includes both Northern and Southern Rhones. While Jean-Louis has a professor-like level of expertise with regards to Hermitage, today his passion is firmly directed at the steep slopes on the western side of the Rhone River, in the appellation of Saint Joseph. He has numerous new vineyards coming on-line, and while everything is currently blended into his estate Saint-Joseph, each of the individual terroirs are incredibly unique, and I’m sure will be bottled on their own sometime in the future. With more and more of Hermitage going to larger corporations these days, it’s inspiring to see this small, family owned estate still sitting near the top of the hierarchy. Jean-Louis is still young (and has a young son who takes after him, and a daredevil daughter who takes after Erin), so the future is very bright at this estate! Looking specifically at their Hermitage, the Chaves vinify each of their individual terroirs separately, and the components are all aged in small barrels before blending and bottling without being filtered. As is the norm in Hermitage, everything is completely destemmed, and the percentage of new oak is kept to a minimum, falling in the 20-30% range. The style here is beautifully transparent, with the wines always showing the vintage characteristics clearly (which Jean-Louis breaks into a “Granite” year, or a “Sun” year). In addition, when tasted as individual components, each plot’s characteristics always shine through. While the wines have the balance and purity to dish out plenty of pleasure in their youth, they age beautifully, with Jean-Louis recommending at least 15 years of cellaring for most vintages.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RP

Along with the single vineyard offerings from Michel Chapoutier, Chave’s 2000 Hermitage is a candidate for this appellation’s “wine of the vintage.” A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by sumptuous aromas of licorice, blackberries, currants, spice box, and earth. Deep, full-bodied, and rich, with moderately high tannin, it is atypical for the vintage given its structure and density (two characteristics most 2000 northern Rhones lack). It is a brilliant achievement in a challenging year. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2035.This family-run estate continues to go from strength to strength, with the father and son (Gerard and Jean-Louis) team pushing all the right buttons to achieve success at all quality levels. Jean-Louis Chave is responsible for several negociant wines.Robert Parker | 96 RPA sleeper vintage, this has ample flesh, with a smoldering tobacco leaf note weaving through the core of plum, blackberry and black currant fruit. Still shows broad cocoa and tar on the finish, along with nicely defined iron and incense. Has weight and cut. Thoroughly approachable now, but isn't going anywhere soon.—Non-blind Chave vertical (June 2012). Drink now through 2025.Wine Spectator | 95 WSSaturated ruby. Superripe aromas of blackberry, blueberry, clove, minerals and black licorice. Very ripe but precise and penetrating. At once lush and powerful; seamless but with terrific thrust. Black fruit, flint, spice and dark chocolate flavors offer considerable density and verve. Finishes with substantial noble tannins that arrive very late. Has all the elements for longevity. Give this 10 to 12 years before pulling the cork. This comes across as a bit denser than the young 2001 but not finer. The Chaves clearly did a superb job of harvesting in 2000.Vinous Media | 94+ VM

Absolutely brilliant and jaw dropping good, the 2007 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Deux Frères, showing every bit as well as on release, is everything you could want in a wine and then some. Showing spectacular aromatics of Cassis, graphite, spice, chocolate, and garrigue, it is downright ethereal on the palate and possesses a full-bodied, yet weightless, elegant texture, perfect balance, thrilling richness, and a blockbuster finish that just keeps on giving. Simply a thrilling drink that I wish every Châteauneuf-du-Pape lover could experience, this awesome 2007 is superb now, yet will easily age for 2+ decades. Hat’s off to the Usseglio brothers for this utterly captivating bottle of wine!Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThe perfect 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is slightly more evolved and complex than the Mon Aieul, as odd as that seems. Having had it twice out of bottle, this wine (nearly 100% Grenache combined with a few dollops of Syrah) possesses an opaque ruby/purple color as well as a thrilling texture and monumental length (the finish lasts over 60 seconds). it's a blockbuster, but everything is in perfect balance, and, remarkably, it comes across as the most accessible Reserve des Deux Freres made to date. This wine's aging is completely different from its sibling-s. Sixty percent is aged in 1, 2, and 3-year-old Burgundy barrels, and the rest in small new oak barrels, but there is not a hint of new oak in the aromatics. The bouquet reveals plenty of blackberry, blueberry, and cassis fruit intertwined with notions of melted licorice, spring flowers, and that classic garrigue note that comes across as the seaweed wrapper used in sushi restaurants, nori. There is a certain smokiness that is probably attributable to the oak, and the wine has incredible depth and richness, as well as a finish that seems endless. This extraordinary Chateauneuf du Pape is another prodigious effort in this historic vintage. It should drink well for two decades or more.Brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio have been accomplishing amazing things To reiterate, the 2007s are the most profound wines Thierry and Jean-Pierre have ever produced.Robert Parker | 100 RPGlass-staining ruby. A captivating bouquet evokes black and blue fruits with strong floral and spice accents. Lush, creamy and palate-coating, with sweet blackcurrant and boysenberry flavors, fully absorbed tannins and alluring spiciness. Tangy minerality adds bite and clarity to the finish, which is shockingly lithe for a wine with such palate impact. "This would be more Sophia Loren than Catherine Deneuve," says Usseglio.Vinous Media | 97 VMOffers a warm bread dough aroma, with very muscular-textured dark currant and fig sauce notes backed by a dense, licorice-filled finish. A very thick, broad style that scores points for its toasty, mocha-driven power, but lacks the racy vibrancy of the best. Best from 2010 through 2022. 250 cases made.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

I continue to be blown away by the 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin and it’s a magical, hedonistic, thrilling wine in every way. A blend of 60% Mourvèdre, 20% Syrah, and the balance Counoise and Grenache brought up in a large oak foudre, it offers to-die-for notes of roasted Provencal herbs, black truffles, assorted red and black fruits, ground pepper, lavender, and incense. Thick, opulent, full-bodied and incredibly powerful on the palate, it has the sexy, fruit-loaded style of the vintage front and center yet backs it up with masses of tannins and structure. Drink it any time over the coming two decades or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDNo Hommage a Jacques Perrin was made in 2008, but the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is an utterly perfect wine. Composed of 60% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah, and the rest Counoise and Grenache, this prodigious effort boasts an inky/blue/purple color to the rim in addition to an exceptional bouquet of camphor, roasted meats, blueberries, black cherries, black currants, truffles, beef blood, pepper, and incense. The sumptuous aromatics are followed by a wine of compelling intensity, full-bodied power, perfect balance, laser-like focus, and a finish that lasts more than a minute. The 2007’s texture reminds me of the 1998 Jacques Perrin, and the freshness of the fruit and explosive aromatics are to die for. There are only 500 cases of this legend in the making, but for those lucky enough to find any, it will last for 40-60 years.One of the great estates of the Rhone Valley, Chateau Beaucastel has been run by several generations of the Perrin family, beginning with the late Jacques Perrin (who died in 1978), then the brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois, and now their sons Thomas, Marc, Pierre, and Mathieu. Beaucastel has nearly 200 acres in vine in Chateauneuf du Pape, and they have branched out with an impressive operation under the Perrin et Fils label, purchasing grapes and acquiring land (in Vinsobres and Gigondas, for example). Their goal is to become the most recognized name for high quality wines in the southern Rhone. As shrewd consumers know, one of the best values in under $10 a bottle wine is La Vieille Ferme. The Perrin et Fils cuvees include wines made from purchased grapes as well as their new acquisitions in Vinsobres, Gigondas (25 acres), and the Cotes du Rhone village of Cairanne (35 acres). The Perrins enjoyed tremendous success with their 2008 red wines, largely because yields ranged between 18 hectoliters per hectare for Beaucastel, to only 20 hectoliters per hectare for Coudoulet. The mildew that affected everyone was the culprit. The entire family acknowledged there was an extraordinary triage and culling out of the grapes at the sorting tables.Robert Parker | 100 RPStill opaquely coloured. Interesting nose; meat stock, smoked duck, struck flint, cigar tobacco - a very smoky, savoury style. It’s opulent, with a soft, yielding texture, this is ready for business now. It’s very rich, exceedingly opulent, the alcohol is very high. Great depth and length, with star anise on the finish - almost has a mulled character. Incredible length; a narcotic vintage of Hommage that is atypical and unforgettable. A wine to share among friends, a glass would be enough. Perhaps two... Drinking Window 2019 - 2050.Decanter | 99 DECThis has all the heady, dense crushed fig, linzer torte, currant confiture and melted licorice flavors of the vintage, but carries them effortlessly, thanks to perfectly embedded tannins and gorgeous, creamy layers of tar, roasted mesquite, braised chestnut, maduro tobacco and iron. Offering amazing mouthfeel, a stunning array of flavors and awesome density, purity and length, this shows the glory of Mourvèdre in 2007. Best from 2012 through 2035. 580 cases made.Wine Spectator | 99 WS(based on 70% mourvedre) Opaque ruby color. Remarkably complex bouquet of dark berry compote, potpourri, sandalwood, smoked meat and licorice, complemented by a smoky mineral overtone. Broad, palate-coating dark fruit flavors pick up notes of candied flowers and licorice with air and show a pungent Indian spice character. Becomes more floral with air and leaves sweet cherry and floral pastille notes behind. I’d buy all of this that I could afford.Vinous Media | 97 VM

A wine that flirts with perfection is the inky and opaque 2009 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes. Coming from L'Ermite, le Sabot, and Les Bessards, and aged in a combination of new and used French oak barrels, it gives up a heavenly bouquet of crushed rocks, blackberries, leather, wild herbs and earth. Massively concentrated on the palate, with another level of fruit and texture over the 2010, it has brilliant purity, building tannin and a blockbuster finish. There's enough tannin here to warrant hiding in the cellar for 4-5 years, but it should last for 3-4 decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPMuch more structure, smoky, and concentrated, with a burly feel, the 2009 Delas Frères Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes delivers a serious array of blackberry, graphite, mineral, cedar, and charcoal that gives way to a full-bodied, dense, almost painfully structured palate. Fleshing out in the glass, this rock star Hermitage has a deep, layered mid-palate, integrated acidity, and masses of tannin on the finish. This needs time. Give bottles 5-6 years in the cellar, and then plan on drinking over the following two decades!Jeb Dunnuck | 96 JDVery rich, with layers of creamed pear, green fig and Jonagold apple cascading over blanched almond and melon rind notes. The long finish lets hints of honey and blanched almond slowly take over, with impressive length. Not imported into the U.S. Drink now through 2022. 830 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WSInky purple. Deeply pitched aromas of cherry and cassis, with licorice and black pepper nuances adding complexity. Chewy and dense, offering bitter cherry and dark berry flavors lifted by a spicy note on the back half. Finishes with gentle tannic grip and persistent spice and smoke notes. Give this masculine, brawny wine at least a few more years of bottle age.Vinous Media | 91+ VM

A perfect wine in every way, the 2015 Côte Rôtie La Turque comes from an incredible terroir on the Côte Brune and includes 7% Viognier. Stylistically, it normally fits between the more ripe, exuberant La Mouline and the more austere, tannic La Landonne. A deep purple color is followed by extraordinary notes of spring flowers, crushed violets, vanilla bean, and cured meats. This gives way to a full-bodied Côte Rôtie that has a stacked mid-palate, lots of ripe, silky tannins, no hard edges, and a finish that won’t quit. Syrah, or red wine for that matter, doesn’t get any better! Hats off to the Guigal family for another magical wine. Give bottles 6-7 years of bottle age and enjoy over the following 30 years or more.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDLike the La Mouline, the 2015 Cote Rotie La Turque comes across as slightly closed—I wouldn’t be surprised to see it inch up to a perfect rating in a decade or so. Lashings of ground spices—pepper, allspice, cardamom—are sprinkled over mixed berries, but this full-bodied wine is locked up tight, finishing with firm tannins. Give it at least 5-6 years, maybe even a decade or so, before pulling a cork.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 99 RPDark plum, boysenberry and fig fruit is steeped with notes of anise, black tea, ganache and roasted apple wood. A warm cast iron spine drives the finish, pulling all the components together along the way. Delivers serious cut and drive, holding a deep well of fruit in reserve. Best from 2025 through 2045. 88 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 99 WSThe personality of this wine is in full, flamboyant flight in 2015 with such expressive aromas of fragrant spices, roses and violet flowers, orange zest, white pepper, dark stones, exotic baking spices and beautifully ripe blackberries, blood plums and some redder fruit notes. The palate delivers plenty of energy and depth with ripe, dark and juicy tannins, wrapped around a very rich, intense and fleshy blackberry core. Impressive and still just a baby. Try from 2026.James Suckling | 98 JSSaturated purple. Hugely perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, incense, potpourri, smoky bacon and spicecake. Cola, olive and cracked pepper flourishes build with air. Youthfully and broad in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated, sharply defined black/blue fruit, spicecake, vanilla and violet pastille flavors that are brightened by a smoky mineral accent. Chewy and appealingly sweet on the extremely long, floral-dominated finish framed by youthful, slow-building tannins.Vinous Media | 97 VMA darker, deeper, slightly more meaty style compared to La Mouline, the oak here more powerfully evident. Very grippy, very tight tannins. The alcohol feels a little raised, but generally there is a good balance between darks fruits, acidity and tannin, and the wine has great freshness, length and depth. Aromatically and texturally, the wine is dominated by oak at this early stage, though this aspect will soften and meld to some extent as it matures in bottle. Very long, juicy, intense finish. Fermented in stainless steel, 40 months in new French oak barriques. Drinking Window 2027 - 2039Decanter | 95 DEC

Rich and opulent on the nose, with yellow peach and honeycomb. Very full bodied, with that immediate internal sweet ripeness of fruit that often marks out this cuvée. Good balancing acidity here, with real intensity of concentrated sappy fruits. Huge length, impressive power and a great mineral expression. It coats the mouth, and somehow stays fresh despite its richness. Old vine Marsanne (over 70 years old) grown on the pebbly, sand and clay soils of the lieu-dit Les Murets. 80% is matured in demi-muid for 11 months, 15% new oak, and the rest in stainless steel. 2017 is an exceptional year for de l’Orée.Decanter | 99 DECBrought up in just 18% new French oak, with 15% in stainless steel, the 2017 Ermitage de L’Orée is a big, rich, exotic effort that has loads of caramelized citrus, white flowers, green almonds, and licorice aromas and flavors. A wine that changes with time in the glass, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a rounded, layered texture, and a great finish. As with the Le Méal, it’s made in a slightly more fresh, focused style that’s going to benefit from short-term cellaring.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDThere are a substantial 909 cases of the 2017 Ermitage de l’Orée. Sourced from Les Murets’ clay soils, it combines hints of struck flint with honey, pear and baking spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with a layered sense of richness and ample concentration, it’s a big but balanced wine. While it lacks the zest and freshness of the 2016, it should still drink well for close to two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPPale gold. Intense, sharply delineated aromas of fresh nectarine, pear nectar, orange, honey and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral overtone. Deeply pitched citrus and orchard fruit, peach liqueur and honeysuckle flavors stain the palate and become deeper with air, picking up a hint of toasted almonds and showing powerful back-end cut. The mineral and honey notes repeat emphatically on a strikingly long, focused finish that leaves juicy pear and floral notes behind.Vinous Media | 95 VMThe freshness and vibrantly focused style here is super impressive. A stony and flinty nose leads to notes of freshly baked bread crust, white peaches, lemons and grapefruit with nicely delivered oak spice and nuttiness. The palate has a very composed core with fine, powerful and focused flavors of peaches, pears and grapefruit and a minerally, focused, lightly spiced finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

Crushed stone, mint, blackberries and cassis all appear upon the nose of the 2020 Ermitage le Pavillon. The great vintages of these wines soak up the oak, like this one has. Full-bodied, concentrated and massive in scale, it’s a mouthful of dark fruit flavors that gradually morph into something more savory on the long, silky-firm finish, adding notes of black olives and espresso. It’s really impressive, as it maintains a sense of elegance all along its path.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPThe 2020 Ermitage Le Pavillon is pure gold, and Hermitage doesn’t get any better. Incredible aromatics of cassis, graphite, burning embers, and crushed stone all emerge from this beauty. Stunningly proportioned and incredibly pure, it’s full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful, but as with all great vintages of this cuvée, it’s going to demand bottle age. While Les Greffieux and Le Méal bring much more opulence, this is the powerhouse, long-distance candidate in the lineup. It’s an incredible effort. Give bottles upwards of a decade in the cellar, and it should evolve effortlessly over the following 30-40 years.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDThis has that tell-tale touch of soy to the plum and blackcurrant fruit so reminiscent of this cuvée. Fluid and juicy on the palate, this has great intensity and salinity without feeling heavy or overripe. Plenty of sweet, ripe tannin and balanced acidity. Only medium-bodied, there’s a touch of pepperiness on the finish, great freshness, harmony and balance. Sometimes a wine seems a bit too easy, a bit too effortless, and it can lull you into a sense that it lacks seriousness; this wine tries to do that, but I’m not inclined to underestimate it.Decanter | 99 DECPatience, please, but in return for that you will be given the keys to Hermitage heaven. This is extremely concentrated, but also extremely refined. Incredible finesse for this level of power with extraordinary density of ripe black fruits. Somehow this manages to smell and taste unbelievably fresh. And that freshness just doesn’t want to stop at the finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2026.James Suckling | 98 JSMassive and full-throttled, with beautiful delicacy to the tannins, which gives this a sleek, velvety feel. Packs generous fig, plum and mulled cherry fruit flavors, with great tension and mineral intensity, while a graphite edge drives the length. The subtly chewy, nicely defined close is graced with warm earth accents, harnessing ample energy in reserve. Drink now through 2040.Wine Spectator | 97 WSDark purple. Potent dark berry preserve, cherry-cola, exotic spice, potpourri and mineral aromas convey impressive energy and acquire smoked bacon and licorice nuances with air. Sappy, deeply concentrated blackberry, bitter cherry, fruitcake and salty olive paste flavors stain the palate and show almost shocking energy for their heft. Closes with superb, floral- and mineral-dominated persistence and chewy tannins adding final grip. I also had the chance to drink the still-youthful and mineral-driven 2011 rendition of this wine, made entirely from fruit grown in Bessards, and was blown away by its balance and freshness.Vinous Media | 96-98 VM

Just about pure perfection and one of the finest Condrieu to pass my lips, the 2020 Condrieu La Doriane offers an insane bouquet of grilled pineapple, charcoal, crushed stone, acacia flowers, and white peach. It picks up an incredibly sense of salinity on the palate and is full-bodied, has blockbuster concentration, remarkable purity and focus, and a great finish. I like this beast/beauty today, but it will keep for a decade.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDFull-bodied and very rich, but there's plenty of salinity to balance the oak work, which is robust but very high quality. Fresh and drinkable already, as flamboyant as ever and with a long finish. From lieux-dits Chatillon, Chéry, Vernon, Colombier and Château de Vallon in Malleval (where soils are granite with iron oxide). 100% new oak barriques. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 95 DECWhat a fascinatingly smoky and flinty nose this Condrieu has! I love the touches of vanilla bean, mandarin orange peel and jasmine that emerge as you swirl the glass. It masters a remarkable balance on the expansive and subtle palate, a hint of bitterness helping to balance the softness and creaminess of the long finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JSWhile the 2020 Condrieu la Doriane matured entirely in new oak, there's just a hint of toast on the nose. The rest of the bouquet features a kaleidoscopic swirl of floral and spice notes with melon and white peach. Medium to full-bodied, it's exquisitely expansive and silky in texture, yet it remains refreshing on the lengthy, mouthwatering finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2022 Chateauneuf du Pape is a richly concentrated effort, dark-fruited and loaded with black cherries and blackberries, yet it’s not without nuance, as it includes hints of asphalt, truffle and dried spices. Full-bodied (15.4% alcohol), deep and velvety, with a long, softly dusty finish, it looks to be a real beauty, capable of aging up to two decades.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97-99 RPThe 2022 Châteauneuf Du Pape reminds me of the 2007 with its incredible sexiness and seamless, elegant texture. Black cherry liqueur, Provençal herbs, flowers, and licorice are just some of its nuances, and it’s full-bodied, with a layered mouthfeel, gorgeous tannins, and a great, great finish. Tasted from multiple foudre, this is unquestionably up with the finest in the vintage, and as I’ve written in the past, it’s almost impossible to have too much Clos des Papes in the cellar!Jeb Dunnuck | 97-99 JDA touch less Mourvèdre this year, but not enough to change the profile of the wine, which is fairly classic albeit pretty bombastic in 2022. Raspberry and black cherry, ripe and exuberant. Full but not massive, the alcohol is present, slightly warming the finish. Tannins are a little grainy, so I would give this time to settle before broaching. Succulent and juicy, with a touch of liquorice. Vincent Avril believes the wine could close down quite early on. So drink young, or (even better) wait until 2030. All destemmed, aged in old foudres.Decanter | 96 DEC