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The 2023 Sancerre “l ’Authentique” from Domaine Thomas-Labaille is a beautiful, classic example and augurs very well for other bottlings from this next vintage in the pipeline. The wine offers up a superb bouquet of gooseberry, lime, fresh-cut grass, an excellent base of limestone minerality, citrus blossoms and a topnote of orange peel. On the palate the wine is bright fullbodied, complex and nicely balanced, with a fine core of ripe fruit, superb soil transparency and grip, bright acids, lovely focus and bounce and a long, complex and vibrant finish. Lovley Sancerre. 2024-2032+. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG

Domaine Filliatreau’s 2023 Saumur-Champigny Blanc “Cuvée Lena” is a fine bottle, with the bounce and cut of young chenin blanc fruit beautifully wed to its underlying limestone soils. The bouquet hops from the glass in a refined constellation of green apple, quince, chalky soil tones, a touch of lanolin and a topnote of dried flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and complex, with a lovely girdle of acidity, excellent focus, a fine core of fruit and a long, well balanced and nicely soil-driven finish. This is still youthful and will drink with even more generosity with a bit of bottle age, but even in its zesty youth it is immensely tasty. 2024-2045. 92.John Gilman | 92 JG