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The 1990 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru is magnificent. It displays stunning definition on the nose; there’s no messing about as it ladles out captivating raspberry, wild strawberry and light oyster shell notes. Though opulent and reflective of the growing season, the bouquet oozes class. The palate has a sorbet-like freshness and so much vitality after 31 years, building toward a perfectly symmetrical finish featuring vivacious morello cherries and raspberry coulis and hints of bay leaf. This is simply Rousseau in full flight. How do you follow that pair?Vinous Media | 97 VMThis was a wine that I was quite curious to try because while I had the good fortune to have enjoyed it several times in the 1990s, it had not come my way since 2001. I’m happy to report that it did not disappoint with its ripe yet airy aromas of sous-bois, spice, earth, game and beautifully well-layered secondary fruit. There is fine richness as well as very good power to the delicious and attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that exhibit equally good layering on the impressively persistent finale. This is not a particularly elegant vintage for the Rousseau CSJ and there remains enough tannin to notice on the slightly warm finish but overall, I found this to have aged out extremely well.Burghound | 93 BHThe outstanding Gevrey-Chambertin-Clos St.-Jacques possesses a saturated deep ruby color, and an explosive nose of black fruits, spicy new oak, flowers, and truffles. In the mouth, the wine is dense, seductive, and ripe, with low acidity, glycerin, and alcohol in the finish, making it a voluptuous, opulent mouthful of chewy Pinot Noir. Drink it over the next decade.Robert Parker | 90 RPA supple 1990, with a firm core of solid tannins and enough fruit to compensate for the tannic backbone. A well-integrated wine, with lots of raspberry, mushroom and wet earth flavors. Best after 1996.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

(Domaine Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1er Cru Clos-St-Jacques, Burgundy, France, Red) Medium-full colour. Rich, concentrated, high quality nose with a touch of new oak. Fullish body. Profound. Youthful. Excellent grip. Very impressive finish. Splendid quality as usual. Will still improve. (Drink between 2003-2025)Decanter | 96 DEC(Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" 1er Cru Red) Knockout aromas of wonderfully intense black and red cherry fruit loaded with cassis and a touch of new oak introduce medium-bodied, sweet, harmonious, very expressive and long flavors all underpinned by racy minerality and firm structure. The tannins are prominent but ripe and the density of extract is impressive and this both coats and stains the palate. As it always does, this delivers finesse with real mid-palate punch with near perfect grace. For my taste, I would hold this for another 1 to 3 years but it would be no vinous crime to be drinking this now. Note to be sure to serve this cool as the alcohol becomes noticeable if it becomes a bit too warm. (Drink starting 2013)Burghound | 93 BHRousseau’s 2001 Grevey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques is a very pretty wine, bursting from the glass with a projected bouquet of rose petal, cassis, red cherry, cedary new oak and sweet forest floor. On the palate, the wine is youthful but expressive, with a sweet, almost candied core of succulent fruit, framed by supple tannins. At first glance, this seems to epitomize Rousseau’s elegant style, but by the time the bottle was finished, the wine had begun to seem just a touch facile and diffuse, missing the intensity and concentration that this bottling can attain.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPGood medium red. Strawberry, coffee, rose petal and smoky oak on the nose. Sweet, ripe and plump, with aromatic flavors of plum and spicy oak. Here the nearly 100% new oak percentage (the foregoing wines get little or no new oak) adds considerable sex appeal and nicely frames the wine’s rather delicate fruit. Finishes long, subtle and aromatic, with an impression of finer tannins.Vinous Media | 90 VM

In the brilliant and very structured vintage of 2005, it is not surprising that Domaine Michel Gaunoux has produced several masterpieces. The 2005 Grands Épenots is a magical young bottle of Pommard that seems likely to easily live a hundred years. The bouquet is very, very deep and currently very closed, as it reluctantly offers up a stunning mélange of cherries, blood orange, smoke, gamebirds, a great base of complex soil tones, an exotic touch of mint, orange zest and mustard seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid right to the sappy core, with beautifully tangy acids, ripe, substantial tannins and absolutely brilliant length and grip on the still very primary finish. This will take many more years to fully blossom and reach its zenith, and should prove to be one on the longest-lived wines of this magical and very long-lived vintage. (Drink between 2025 - 2125)John Gilman | 96+ JGA ripe, serious and brooding nose is composed of impressively complex red currant, blue berry, plum, violet and warm earth aromas. Given how the ’05s are generally showing today, the tannins are actually quite fine and like the ’08 Rugiens, the mouth feel of the robust yet focused flavors is highly sophisticated. This should be capable of aging for decades and will need at least one more.Burghound | 94 BHA big, dense red, packed with sweet cherry, raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. It’s less forthcoming yet more concentrated than the Rugiens, yet shows freshness and length. Best from 2012 through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

The 2006 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Malconsorts from Sylvain Cathiard really blossomed in the glass, unfurling to reveal notes of plums, dark chocolate, rich soil, burning embers and some savory and hard-to-define bass notes, its new oak nicely digested at age 12. On the palate, the wine starts out a little foursquare but opens up to become quite expansive, more taut and controlled than the 2005 En Orveaux tasted the following day, with fine-grained but not yet melted tannins, a deep core of fruit and a long finish. An excellent Malconsorts with a full decade ahead of it.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPGood full red. Darker fruits on the nose, complicated by minerals, violet and sweet oak. Rich and silky but at the same time minerally and firm; boasts impressive volume and texture but comes across as almost weightless. Finishes tight and youthfully closed, with superb mineral energy and toothcoating tannins. Lovely already but this should really be held for five or six years.Vinous Media | 93+ VM(Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru Red) A gorgeously layered and deep nose of spicy, and once again notably cool black pinot fruit seems to offer up a different nuance with each examination and serves as a classy intro to the supple, rich, round and strikingly pure mouth coating flavors brimming with dry extract on the hugely long finish that exhibits serious power. This is a big yet refined wine that remains the current reference standard for Malconsorts though, happily, there will be more serious competition going forward with Domaines Dujac and de Montille coming to the party. Impressive but note that patience will be required. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 93 BH

Bright, dark red. Very ripe, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, spices, mocha and underbrush. Sappy and supple, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the seamless red fruit flavors. Quite suave and rich but not at all thick or heavy. Finishes with very fine tannins and superb length and lift. Owner Patrick Landanger told me that he has pulled out 40% of the old virused vines in this vineyard since the 2009 harvest, as they were yielding very little crop.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Clos de la Bousse d'Or" 1er 1er Cru Red) This is slightly more complex if not more elegant with a more floral-infused nose that includes rose petal and violets on the plum and black cherry infused nose. There is excellent concentration to the detailed, intense and delicious flavors that possess that beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the mouth coating and suave yet firm and enduring finish. (Drink starting 2020)Burghound | 92 BH

The 2010 Grands Epenots is a great wine in the making. Today, the wine is properly shut down, but reluctantly offers up a potentially stunning nose of red and black cherries, a marvelously complex base of soil, herb tones, incipient gamebird, coriander and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with great purity and focus, ripe, beautifully-integrated tannins and outstanding length and grip on the intensely flavored and tangy finish. A great and potentially timeless classic. (Drink between 2025 - 2100)John Gilman | 95+ JGA fresh, pure and very cool nose offers up aromas of a variety of red berries, earth and a hint of the sauvage that is also reflected by the delicious, intense and broad-shouldered flavors. There is excellent volume but also plenty of underlying tension that imparts a real sense of verve to the long, balanced and highly complex finish. Despite the admirable size and weight this is a bit more refined than usual thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins. Lovely stuff and well worth considering.Burghound | 93 BH

There are floral and smoked tea nuances present that add breadth to the beautifully complex earth, wet stone and pure red pinot fruit scents. There is superb intensity and strikingly good detail to the almost pungent mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that brim with structure-buffering dry extract, all wrapped in a hugely long and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is a classic Rugiens that combines overt power with refinement. In sum, this is seriously impressive.Burghound | 95 BH

Menthol and soft wood nuances frame the restrained but spicy aromas of black fruit and high-toned floral scents. There is good richness to the relatively full-bodied generous flavors that possess a silky texture, all wrapped in a lightly structured and impressively persistent finish. There is a bit of wood on the finish that offers only moderate complexity at present though my score assumes that more will develop over the next 3 to 5 years. As was the case when I originally reviewed this ultra-elegant effort, there is noticeable gas on the finish so if you’re going to try a bottle young I would advise decanting it first.Burghound | 92 BHSuchots can also often be quite black fruity in personality, but this is not the case with the 2011 Hudelot version, which offers up a fine bouquet of cherries, blood orange, Vosne spice, fresh herb tones, fine soil nuances and a bit of cedary wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and shows off lovely mid-palate depth, with ripe tannins, bright acids and excellent grip and focus on the long and dancing finish. A very elegant and intensely flavored Suchots. (Drink between 2021 - 2050)John Gilman | 92+ JG(picked at 13.1% potential alcohol): Medium red with an amber edge. Highly aromatic nose combines strawberry, musky brown spices, dried flowers and cinnamon. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, with a bit of unabsorbed CO2 accentuating the tartness of the cranberry, pomegranate and soil flavors. Very savory wine, with enough stuffing and flavor intensity to maintain its balance. Finishes with firm tannins and very good tangy length.Vinous Media | 90 VM

I really love the 2012 Suchots from Domaine Hudelot, as the overtly red fruity character of this wine this year is very rare for this terroir and earmarks a very special vintage of the wine. The gorgeous nose offers up scents of cherries, raspberries, a touch of blood orange, Vosne spices, a beautiful base of minerality, woodsmoke and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very transparent, with a sappy core of fruit, fine-grained tannins and a very, very long, soil-driven and tangy finish. Superb juice. (Drink between 2020 - 2050)John Gilman | 93+ JGThe 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots comes from a 0.45-hectare holding planted back in 1920. It has a slightly muted nose out of barrel, but it unfurls revealing earthy, mossy scents with aeration. The palate is clean and fresh, but somehow foursquare and a little conservative compared to some of the domaine’s other premier crus. You get the impression that this Les Suchots is hiding something up its sleeve, whereas this vineyard is habitually one of the most expressive in its youth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 89-91 RPBright medium red. Ripe, alluring aromas and flavors of wild strawberry, raspberry and earth. Sweet, fine-grained and enveloping, showing lovely energy and density and still holding its fruit in reserve. Finishes fresh and firm-edged, with full, fine-grained tannins and excellent length.Vinous Media | 91 VMA spicy and notably ripe nose features aromas of dark pinot fruit, red currant, blood orange and an abundance of spice elements that include anise and sandalwood. There is an elegant mouth feel to the luscious and generously proportioned middle weight flavors that possess a velvety texture, all wrapped in a beautifully complex finish. If there is a concern though it’s that this very firmly structured effort feels as though it may turn secondary relatively early in its evolution. As such I underscore my concern with a question mark because it will certainly require more than 8 years of bottle age to resolve the tannins yet the fruit may no longer be there.Burghound | 90 BH

The 2014 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots has a really quite lovely bouquet with bright red berry fruit, a touch of violet and a hint of wet gravel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, quite saline in the mouth with a subtle marine influence, a touch of spice with a long, slightly earthy finish. It delivers on the promise that it demonstrated from barrel and will be drinking beautifully for 15-20 years.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPSuchots is another Vosne premier cru that is usually very black fruity out of the blocks, and interestingly, this is absolutely the case with this classic 2014 version from Charles van Canneyt. The bouquet soars from the glass in a very elegant blend of dark berries, black cherries, raw cocoa, a superb base of dark soil tones, gamebirds, cardamom, cedar and a bit of fresh herbs in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and again, very much defined by its beautiful minerality at the outset, with a sappy core of black fruit, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy and impeccably balanced finish. I love the tension here between the fruit, soil and acids. (Drink between 2021 - 2055)John Gilman | 93 JGBright medium red. Sexy, inviting aromas of sweet raspberry, cocoa powder and soil. Plush, broad and seamless but with good medicinal reserve to its dark fruit, licorice, spice and earth flavors. Most impressive today on the very long, spicy, rising finish, where the ripe tannins saturate the entire mouth. Conveys an impression of density without weight, like the better examples of the vintage.Vinous Media | 92+ VMThis is closed to the point of being all but mute as the grudging nose is composed by a collection of plum, violet, earth and sandalwood aromas. There is good richness, volume and concentration to the velvety middle weight flavors that terminate in a suave and seductive finale where the supporting tannins appear to be slightly riper.Burghound | 92 BH

(this vineyard was planted about a hundred years ago, and features a high percentage of millerandage): Bright, dark red. Very ripe but reticent aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and dark chocolate. Densely packed, very ripe, broad and fine-grained but showing little in the way of easy sweetness in the early going. Like the Chambolle Charmes, this is quite closed today and not yet showing its inherent complexity. But the wine’s richness of material is already clear. Finishes with substantial tannic clout. "Always a blacker, denser wine than the Beaumonts," notes van Canneyt.Vinous Media | 91-94 VMIn contrast to the parcel of Beaumonts that is at the very top of the vineyard, the family’s plot of vines in Suchots are down low in the vineyard, next to the cemetery in the village. Suchots is usually one of the most black fruity premier crus in Vosne-Romanée, but the 2015 from the domaine has plenty of red fruit tones in its superb bouquet of red and black raspberries, lovely Vosne spice tones, black minerality, raw cocoa, a touch of bonfire and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and beautifully pure on the attack, with stunning transparency, a sappy core, fine-grained tannins and a long, complex and very soil-driven finish. This is one of the finest vintages of young Suchots chez Hudelot that I have ever tasted! (Drink between 2025-2065)John Gilman | 94 JGThe 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots (which hails from a parcel planted in 1910) is excellent, opening in the glass with a deep bouquet of cassis, cherry, smoked duck and burnt orange, elegantly framed by a discrete application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, silky and ample, with serious depth and dimension, juicy acids and ripe, fine-grained tannins. While its serious structural chassis is nicely cloaked in concentrated fruit, this Suchots will benefit from a good decade of bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPDiscreet but not invisible wood serves as a relatively neutral backdrop for the exuberantly spicy and again very ripe aromas soy, hoisin, black raspberry, plum and floral scents. The generously proportioned and amply rich medium-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy mouthfeel to the velvety but firm, serious and youthfully austere finale that makes clear this is going to require extended cellaring. In sum, this is an excellent Suchots. (Drink starting 2030)Burghound | 93 BH

Ripe, dark cherry can just about be made out on the nose of this wine, but it seems distant. On the palate, the full, sumptuous purity and freshness of the fruit come to the fore. Nothing is overdrawn, all is harmonious. Silky tannins accentuate the sinuous depth of the fruit while subtle freshness highlights the pristine, elegant fruit. Lovely now, the wine is certain to evolve. Drink 2025–2035. Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEBright cherry fruit is at the core of this elegant red, matched to a juicy texture and firm yet well-integrated structure. Sandalwood, vanilla and chalk dust accents add interest and the finish takes on a chunky feel. Best from 2022 through 2032. 700 cases made, 102 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSHere the slightly more expressive nose of red currant, plum and earth is more floral-suffused. There is a slightly more sophisticated mouthfeel to the middle weight flavors thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins shaping the markedly saline and refreshing finish that also flashes a bit of youthful austerity. This mildly warm and slightly firmer effort needs to develop more complexity but it’s already quite attractive.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Beaurepaire Rouge has also turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of ripe cherries, cocoa nib, sweet soil tones and spices in a complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensuous, its ample core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and melting tannins. This is one of the most texturally refined wines in the range this year, but for all the early accessibility that conveys, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPAttractive spice, florals and a white-pepper and chalky edge to the nose. Elegant, svelte and gently peppery palate with smooth, fine-grained tannins. Drink over the next five years.James Suckling | 91 JS

Aromas of cherries, cinnamon, dark chocolate and rich soil tones introduce the 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Passetemps, a medium to full-bodied wine that’s velvety and enveloping, with a layered core of ripe but succulent fruit, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. Might this be the best Passetemps that Vincent has produced from this high-density 2004 planting? I’m certainly inclined to think so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The gentle extraction and use of whole clusters has produced a wine with deep plummy fruit, while one-third new casks give a sweet spice quality to the aroma. Dense and well balanced, this should be approachable young and will continue to drink well for a decade. From the band of premiers crus which run through the village, just below Clos de Tart.Decanter | 91 DECThe 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Sorbets 1er Cru offers strawberry pastilles and raspberry on a nose that needs a little more complexity and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins on the entry, and lightly spiced with a robust, burly finish. Not bad, but it does miss some elegance. Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

This large 1.75ha holding is at the northern end of the lieu-dit, not far from Bonnes Mares, where it is planted in a terres blanches soil similar to the top of the slope. In 2019, the fruit has given a seductive result, with profuse raspberry aromas, a hint of ginger and liquorice. The texture on the palate shows plenty of extract, with sweet fruit but also a lovely depth and density. Drinking Window 2024 - 2049.Decanter | 95 DECThe 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru was showing a little more reduction than the Les Combottes, though not much, allowing black fruit laced with crushed stone and iris flower to emerge with aeration. The palate is beautifully defined with succulent, vibrant red and black fruit, hints of blood orange and a subtle irony tincture toward the graceful finish. An outstanding Les Cras. Just superb.Vinous Media | 93-95 VMRoumier’s 2019 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras unwinds in the glass with scents of cherries, smoky berry fruit, orange rind, Indian spices and dark chocolate. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, it’s rich and concentrated, with powdery tannins, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92-94 RPThis is definitely ripe yet again quite fresh with its overtly floral combination of cassis, poached plum, anise, rose petal and discreet wood-suffused aromas. Once again there is a really lovely texture to the more obviously mineral-driven flavors that culminate in a highly refreshing, chiseled and youthfully austere finale that delivers notably better length. Impressive stuff that should age effortlessly. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 93 BH

The 2019 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières derives from a parcel at the southern end of this large climat, which was planted in the early 1950s and where missing vines have never been replaced. Delivering aromas of sweet red berries, orange rind, rose petals and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with lively acids and powdery tannins that assert themselves on the saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru was bottled in October 2020. Wild strawberry and raspberry feature on the nose, interwoven with iris and potpourri scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little more substance and concentration than the 2020, and fine grip and tension on the finish. This should give several years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru, matured in 80% new oak, has a very detailed, focused bouquet of blackberry, briar, raspberry jam and light orange peel aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly tarry opening, a smear of dark chocolate combining nicely with the dark berry fruit, but it is unapologetically backward and surly on the finish compared with the Echézeaux or the Vosne Les Chaumes, so give it some serious cellaring.Vinous Media | 93-95 VM(Domaine Georges Noëllat Vosne-Romanée "Les Beaux Monts" 1er Cru Red) A ripe but cool and even spicier nose offers up notes of anise and hoisin on the pretty aromas of black pinot fruit and violet nuances. The sleek, refined and beautifully detailed middle weight flavors are not especially dense though there is enough sap to buffer the moderately firm supporting tannins on the balanced finish. This isn’t quite as vibrant as the Petits Monts but it’s attractive in a riper fashion. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 89-92 BH

Richly intense high tones of fresh cranberries, rhubarb and peppercorn contribute to a voluminous nose of overripe strawberries and freshly picked cherries. The palate is round and textured with ripe cherries, quince, limestone and salt, which leisurely integrate along its long finish. Cellar through 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDelivers vibrant acidity that delineates black currant and blackberry fruit flavors, with floral, sandalwood, vanilla and earth accents. Features dense, fine-grained tannins and a finish that stretches out, revealing echoes of fruit and spices. Best from 2026 through 2040. 400 cases made, 26 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMuch more subtle oak influence is present on the equally spicy and even more floral-suffused nose that blends notes of red raspberry with those of tea and dark cherry. There is a lovely inner mouth perfume to the energetic, sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess excellent volume before terminating in a moderately austere, long and notably more complex finale. This is excellent though like all fine examples of Clos des Chênes, extended patience will be a virtue.Burghound | 91-94 BH

Very forward plum and fig fruit, with a note of dark chocolate. The texture is ripe and velvety, but there is plenty of depth here. Very pleasant. Bichot purchases the fruit from this parcel of 1.28ha in Les Sorbets. In 2020 it was picked on the 28th of August and fermented with one-third whole clusters.Decanter | 92 DECDeep but not exaggerated purple. Ripe plums on the nose, this has not gone over the limit. A couple of chocolate notes mixed in with the dark red fruit, good acidity of course, considerable length. Attractive wine of middling density and good balance.Jasper Morris | 90-92 JMAn interesting nose of very ripe pepper, ripe plum, dark raspberry and warm earth precedes relatively refined and lilting flavors that contrast significantly with the mildly rustic finish that really firms up as it sits on the palate. Note that this moderately austere effort has the stuffing to reward a decade or so of cellaring.Burghound | 91 BH

The 2020 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru is perhaps the one cuvée from this appellation that showed just a little sur-maturité, very slight touches of prune filtering though the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite firm in the mouth with a slightly short finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Moderate wood surrounds the ripe blend of both red and black raspberry, exotic tea and pretty violet scents. The caressing, round and delicious medium weight flavors that possess good but not special density before firming up noticeably on the austere and much more mineral-driven finale.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) reveals aromas of rich berries, orange rind, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, with a lively core of fruit, ripe but firm tannins and a nicely defined finish, it will demand some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

UNDER THE RADAR An elegant wine with a medium garnet colour and expressive aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and lavender. The texture is silky and delicate, with ripe fruit and an almost surprising density and length. The grapes come from 40-year-old vines in a 1.27ha parcel in the middle of the slope with southeast exposure. The grapes were destemmed, fermented on native yeasts, and lightly pumped over or punched down once daily. The wine is still ageing in cask, about 30% new.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also a ripe 2021 with its aromas of kirsch, plum liqueur and newly turned earth. Like the Marconnets, I love the gorgeous mouthfeel of the almost opulent, intense and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the balanced and impressively persistent finish. This too could use more depth but the highly attractive mouthfeel should make this appealing young while it’s aging. Lovely.Burghound | 93 BH

The domaine’s 0.67-hectare holding in premier cru Marconnets has delivered a wine with lovely ripe blackberry fruit with hints of mineral, smoke, and leather. The palate has impressive density and length, with firm tannins and a supple texture. The vines here are young but have given a charming wine that should drink well young but would doubtless continue to improve for a decade. The grapes are partly destemmed before fermentation and ageing in cask (30% new).Decanter | 93 DECThis is a ripe 2021 as the liqueur-like of cherry, raspberry and softly wooded aromas are unusual in the context of the vintage. I very much like the generous and sophisticated texture of the detailed middleweight flavors that culminate in a youthfully austere, compact and sneaky long finish. This is beautifully well-balanced if tightly wound so at least some patience is strongly suggested.Burghound | 93 BH