Shop Wine

wines

In the brilliant and very structured vintage of 2005, it is not surprising that Domaine Michel Gaunoux has produced several masterpieces. The 2005 Grands Épenots is a magical young bottle of Pommard that seems likely to easily live a hundred years. The bouquet is very, very deep and currently very closed, as it reluctantly offers up a stunning mélange of cherries, blood orange, smoke, gamebirds, a great base of complex soil tones, an exotic touch of mint, orange zest and mustard seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid right to the sappy core, with beautifully tangy acids, ripe, substantial tannins and absolutely brilliant length and grip on the still very primary finish. This will take many more years to fully blossom and reach its zenith, and should prove to be one on the longest-lived wines of this magical and very long-lived vintage. (Drink between 2025 - 2125)John Gilman | 96+ JGA ripe, serious and brooding nose is composed of impressively complex red currant, blue berry, plum, violet and warm earth aromas. Given how the ’05s are generally showing today, the tannins are actually quite fine and like the ’08 Rugiens, the mouth feel of the robust yet focused flavors is highly sophisticated. This should be capable of aging for decades and will need at least one more.Burghound | 94 BHA big, dense red, packed with sweet cherry, raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. It’s less forthcoming yet more concentrated than the Rugiens, yet shows freshness and length. Best from 2012 through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Bright, dark red. Very ripe, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, spices, mocha and underbrush. Sappy and supple, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the seamless red fruit flavors. Quite suave and rich but not at all thick or heavy. Finishes with very fine tannins and superb length and lift. Owner Patrick Landanger told me that he has pulled out 40% of the old virused vines in this vineyard since the 2009 harvest, as they were yielding very little crop.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Clos de la Bousse d'Or" 1er 1er Cru Red) This is slightly more complex if not more elegant with a more floral-infused nose that includes rose petal and violets on the plum and black cherry infused nose. There is excellent concentration to the detailed, intense and delicious flavors that possess that beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the mouth coating and suave yet firm and enduring finish. (Drink starting 2020)Burghound | 92 BH

The 2010 Grands Epenots is a great wine in the making. Today, the wine is properly shut down, but reluctantly offers up a potentially stunning nose of red and black cherries, a marvelously complex base of soil, herb tones, incipient gamebird, coriander and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with great purity and focus, ripe, beautifully-integrated tannins and outstanding length and grip on the intensely flavored and tangy finish. A great and potentially timeless classic. (Drink between 2025 - 2100)John Gilman | 95+ JGA fresh, pure and very cool nose offers up aromas of a variety of red berries, earth and a hint of the sauvage that is also reflected by the delicious, intense and broad-shouldered flavors. There is excellent volume but also plenty of underlying tension that imparts a real sense of verve to the long, balanced and highly complex finish. Despite the admirable size and weight this is a bit more refined than usual thanks to the relatively fine-grained tannins. Lovely stuff and well worth considering.Burghound | 93 BH

There are floral and smoked tea nuances present that add breadth to the beautifully complex earth, wet stone and pure red pinot fruit scents. There is superb intensity and strikingly good detail to the almost pungent mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that brim with structure-buffering dry extract, all wrapped in a hugely long and impeccably well-balanced finish. This is a classic Rugiens that combines overt power with refinement. In sum, this is seriously impressive.Burghound | 95 BH

The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Beaurepaire Rouge has also turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of ripe cherries, cocoa nib, sweet soil tones and spices in a complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensuous, its ample core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and melting tannins. This is one of the most texturally refined wines in the range this year, but for all the early accessibility that conveys, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPAttractive spice, florals and a white-pepper and chalky edge to the nose. Elegant, svelte and gently peppery palate with smooth, fine-grained tannins. Drink over the next five years.James Suckling | 91 JS

Aromas of cherries, cinnamon, dark chocolate and rich soil tones introduce the 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Passetemps, a medium to full-bodied wine that’s velvety and enveloping, with a layered core of ripe but succulent fruit, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. Might this be the best Passetemps that Vincent has produced from this high-density 2004 planting? I’m certainly inclined to think so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2019 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières derives from a parcel at the southern end of this large climat, which was planted in the early 1950s and where missing vines have never been replaced. Delivering aromas of sweet red berries, orange rind, rose petals and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with lively acids and powdery tannins that assert themselves on the saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru was bottled in October 2020. Wild strawberry and raspberry feature on the nose, interwoven with iris and potpourri scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little more substance and concentration than the 2020, and fine grip and tension on the finish. This should give several years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was bottled in June and July ‘21. Very perfumed and floral scents on the nose, dark cherries, bergamot, damp earth and touches of clove, later hints of violet and blood orange (traits that I observed out of barrel). This is nicely detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a classy espresso-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. (Drink between 2025-2050)Vinous Media | 95 VMZanetti divides the Clos des Epéneaux in four sections, which are all fermented and matured separately and then assembled. The assemblage of the three is the most compelling, with a mix of violet notes and expressive cherry fruit aromas on the attack, plus mineral, spice and saline notes that develop with time. There is plenty of body, but little of the tannic, slightly rustic character for which Pommard can be known. Drinking Window 2024 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DECA very ripe nose is comprised by notes of both red and dark currant along with a background hint of a kind of reduction that the Burgundians refer to as bourgeon de cassis. There is fine freshness and verve to the moderately dense, powerful, and muscular larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract before concluding in a dusty, austere, and firm finale. This is also relatively supple and opulent that will need to develop depth over the course of its aging curve. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 92 BH

Richly intense high tones of fresh cranberries, rhubarb and peppercorn contribute to a voluminous nose of overripe strawberries and freshly picked cherries. The palate is round and textured with ripe cherries, quince, limestone and salt, which leisurely integrate along its long finish. Cellar through 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDelivers vibrant acidity that delineates black currant and blackberry fruit flavors, with floral, sandalwood, vanilla and earth accents. Features dense, fine-grained tannins and a finish that stretches out, revealing echoes of fruit and spices. Best from 2026 through 2040. 400 cases made, 26 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMuch more subtle oak influence is present on the equally spicy and even more floral-suffused nose that blends notes of red raspberry with those of tea and dark cherry. There is a lovely inner mouth perfume to the energetic, sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess excellent volume before terminating in a moderately austere, long and notably more complex finale. This is excellent though like all fine examples of Clos des Chênes, extended patience will be a virtue.Burghound | 91-94 BH

The 2020 Beaune Boucherottes 1er Cru is perhaps the one cuvée from this appellation that showed just a little sur-maturité, very slight touches of prune filtering though the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, quite firm in the mouth with a slightly short finish.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Moderate wood surrounds the ripe blend of both red and black raspberry, exotic tea and pretty violet scents. The caressing, round and delicious medium weight flavors that possess good but not special density before firming up noticeably on the austere and much more mineral-driven finale.Burghound | 90-93 BHThe 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) reveals aromas of rich berries, orange rind, peonies and warm spices. Medium to full-bodied, with a lively core of fruit, ripe but firm tannins and a nicely defined finish, it will demand some bottle age.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91-93 RPThe 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb.Vinous Media | 91-93 VM

UNDER THE RADAR An elegant wine with a medium garnet colour and expressive aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and lavender. The texture is silky and delicate, with ripe fruit and an almost surprising density and length. The grapes come from 40-year-old vines in a 1.27ha parcel in the middle of the slope with southeast exposure. The grapes were destemmed, fermented on native yeasts, and lightly pumped over or punched down once daily. The wine is still ageing in cask, about 30% new.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also a ripe 2021 with its aromas of kirsch, plum liqueur and newly turned earth. Like the Marconnets, I love the gorgeous mouthfeel of the almost opulent, intense and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the balanced and impressively persistent finish. This too could use more depth but the highly attractive mouthfeel should make this appealing young while it’s aging. Lovely.Burghound | 93 BH

The domaine’s 0.67-hectare holding in premier cru Marconnets has delivered a wine with lovely ripe blackberry fruit with hints of mineral, smoke, and leather. The palate has impressive density and length, with firm tannins and a supple texture. The vines here are young but have given a charming wine that should drink well young but would doubtless continue to improve for a decade. The grapes are partly destemmed before fermentation and ageing in cask (30% new).Decanter | 93 DECThis is a ripe 2021 as the liqueur-like of cherry, raspberry and softly wooded aromas are unusual in the context of the vintage. I very much like the generous and sophisticated texture of the detailed middleweight flavors that culminate in a youthfully austere, compact and sneaky long finish. This is beautifully well-balanced if tightly wound so at least some patience is strongly suggested.Burghound | 93 BH

The yield in 2021 for Morot’s vines in Teurons was tiny – just five barrels per hectare. The grapes that survived made a beguiling wine, however, with a ripe raspberry fruit aroma and a smoky edge with salty mineral notes. The texture is supple and very fine, but not thin—the balance here is near ideal. The grapes were planted at the top of Teurons in 1963 and give a wine of concentration and depth.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also notably floral in character that adds interest to the essence of red cherry scents that are trimmed in pretty herbal tea, spice and earth nuances. There is obvious energy to the equally mineral-driven flavors that deliver excellent persistence and delineation on the youthfully austere bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This is textbook Teurons with its delicate but quite punchy mouthfeel.Burghound | 92 BH

This ‘classique’ cuvée of Gravières is what is left after the old vines for the ‘Numerus Clausus’ bottling are removed (approximately 3.8 hectares). The remaining fruit still makes a compelling wine, with ripe red and black berry fruit aromas and hints of violets, earth, and leather. The texture is tannic but not astringent, and the tannins and fresh acidity carry this to a lovely lingering finish with great elegance and finesse. The destemmed fruit is given a cold soak and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new).Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru is the main cuvée and comes from a considerable 3.8-hectare parcel. Slightly darker in colour, this has a clean and pure bouquet with dark cherries, citrus fruit - Mirabelle and Clementine, lightly spiced with just a hint of soy. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, harmonious and focused, easygoing in the positive sense of the word. The wood tannins will require a little time to be fully assimilated.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

Unusually supple and charming for a young wine from this site, the 2021 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeots Rouge reveals notes of plums, rose petals, smoke and spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, giving and open-knit palate.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90 RPA restrained and slightly somber nose features notes of pepper, cherry, raspberry and more prominent earth influence. The delicious medium weight flavors possess a fleshy, plump and round mouthfeel while exhibiting fine depth and persistence on the mildly rustic finish. While this well-made effort could also be enjoyed young, a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.Burghound | 90 BH

This is also distinctly earthy with humus nuances adding breadth to the aromas of violet, plum and red currant. The succulent, round and equally sappy medium weight flavors possess a highly appealing mouthfeel while the youthfully austere finish is also shaped by firm but fine-grained tannins. This silky effort could use better depth but it’s already quite pretty and should prove to be admirably ageworthy. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 90-93 BHMid crimson colour. Not one of the more ebullient noses at first, on its reserve. Plenty of weight of fresh fruit a little bit of fresh orange, otherwise raspberry and redcurrant, no great weight at the back but good length. This needs and will get a longer elevage. Drink from 2027-2033.Jasper Morris | 90-93 JM