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It has been some years since the last time I cracked a bottle and at 22 years of age, it would be fair to say that this has reached its apogee with a really lovely and fully mature nose redolent of fully mature secondary aromas that do not yet evidence any notes of sous-bois. There is excellent richness to the delicious, sappy and still solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess excellent depth and fine length. This is not an especially refined effort but one that is most satisfying and while there is no further upside development to be had, neither is there any rush to drink up. In a word, lovely.Burghound | 91 BHA firm wine that offers generous, clear black cherry, raspberry and spice aromas and flavors. Solid, with pure, focused flavors balanced by enough acidity and tannin. Drinkable now to 1998. 375 cases made.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. I tasted the La Tâche 1991 twice within 24 hours: the first ex-domaine and the second purchased from auction in Switzerland, both with Aubert de Villaine present. The former was the best, right? Wrong. It was actually the second that clearly delivered, the ex-domaine example so brutally backward that it was more impressive than a wine to love. That was not the case with the second. The nose was unapologetically ethereal with mineral-laden black fruit with hints of cold wet limestone and peaty moorland on a gloomy winter's day. The precision is quite astonishing. The palate is perfectly balanced as it glides effortlessly across the mouth, intense rather than powerful, a gentle crescendo that fans out gracefully on the finish. I have always had faith in the 1991 La Tâche and now it is coming out of the shadow of the 1990 and proving once and for all, which wine is the greater.Robert Parker Neal Martin | 97 RP-NMThe 1991 La Tâche Grand Cru is a vintage tasted four or five times and I always prefer it to the 1990. Aubert de Villaine once remarked that it was the first vintage that he felt was fully his. I have encountered ex-domaine bottles that have been ferociously backward and require several hours of decanting. This bottle is not ex-domaine but as good as you will find. Beguiling complexity with intense mineralité on the nose, remarkable precision with that moorland scents I have noticed before. Wow. The palate is exquisitely balanced with an intensity that can knock you sideways. Crystalline in purity, the structure on the finish threatens to be too much, but I think time has mollified those tannins. Extraordinarily good but my word, you need patience. Tasted at a private dinner in Hong Kong.Vinous Media | 97 VM(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche Grand Cru Red) I have long been an admirer of this wine as it is dazzlingly elegant and very densely fruited with knock out aromas of spice, dried rose petals, clove, anise and black pepper that are followed by somewhat austere, rich, concentrated and gorgeously persistent flavors that exude a fine minerality on the gorgeously long finish. The intensity here is really something to see and it just oozes class and refinement. It's worth pointing out that this is sufficiently close to its peak that it could be approached now with an hour's worth of air. Multiple examples and very consistent notes, in fact I've never had a substandard bottle. (Drink starting 2016)Burghound | 96 BH(La Tâche- Domaine de la Romanée-Conti) This is a brilliant vintage for La Tâche. The very, very deep bouquet soars from the glass to deliver a stunning potpourri of ripe plums, dark berries, incipient notes of beetroot, intense La Tâche soil tones, nutmeg, game, chocolate and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and pure, with nearly the same creamy mid-palate opulence of the 1989 La Tâche, but with much better focus, structure and grip. The finish is long, ripely tannic and very impressively long. I would opt for giving this wine another five years or so in the cellar to fully apogee, and then drink it with wild abandon over the ensuing twenty-five or thirty years. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would give the nod to La Tâche over Henri Jayer’s Cros Parantoux, but as stunning as the Jayer is in this vintage, the La Tâche is just a notch better. Great juice. (Drink between 2006-2025)John Gilman | 96 JGVery good color. This is fresh and succulent, with saturated cherry and currant flavors. It's bright and well balanced, but the dense tannins dominate the finish. A muscular style that requires time yet.--La Tâche non-blind vertical. Best from 2015 through 2040. 1,428 cases made.Wine Spectator | 95 WS

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn’t as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it’s an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade’s patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPaul Zanetti tends to make two different cuvées from the Clos des Epeneaux, one from younger vines and one from the older, left side of the premier cru, planted between 65 and 98 years ago. The combination in bottle is definitely more than the sum of its parts. This is not a blockbuster vintage for what can be an ageworthy wine, but it’s still appealing in a lighter, more approachable mode, with some tannic grip but lots of perfume, finesse and succulent berry sweetness. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux Pommard "Clos des Epeneaux" 1er Cru Red) There is still just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the herbal tea-inflected blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not distinguished mid-palate concentration before terminating in a lingering if slightly attenuated finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this youthfully austere effort will need at least a few more years of keeping first. A Clos des Epeneaux of relative finesse. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91 BH

The clay soils of this premier cru come into their own in a hot year like 2017, producing a wine that’s fine, plush and aromatic. With 20% stems and 25% new wood adding well-judged layers of complexity, this finishes with freshness and savoury tannins. Drinking Window 2023 - 2027.Decanter | 94 DECThe supplest, most open-knit of Lignier’s premiers crus from Morey, the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte bursts with aromas of plummy fruit, red currants, subtle spices and rose hip. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and expansive, with a layered mid-palate, fine but chalky tannins and a saline finish. This will win friends in its youth.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-93 RP(Morey St. Denis “la Riotte”- Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils) The 2017 la Riotte from Laurent Lignier is an excellent wine in the making, offering up a very precise bouquet of cherries, dark soil tones, woodsmoke, gamebird, espresso and cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very transparent, with a good core, lovely focus and grip, fine-grained tannins and a long, tangy and complex finish. The personality of la Riotte is always a combination of bright red fruit and dark soil tones and the 2017 from Domaine Lignier is a perfect example of this beautiful mosaic of fruit and soil. This was made with twenty percent whole clusters in this vintage. (Drink between 2022-2060).John Gilman | 92 JGThe 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte is aged in one-third new oak and includes 20% whole bunches. It has an expressive bouquet with touches of mint that infuse the vibrant red fruit. The dense, fresh palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry and hints of sour cherry toward the edgy finish. Good potential here.Vinous Media | 90-92 VM(Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils Morey St. Denis "La Riotte" 1er Cru Red) Soft wood surrounds aromas of red and dark currant, newly turned earth and plenty of attractive floral elements. The nicely rich and generously proportioned medium weight flavors possess a sleek texture along with good precision that contrasts somewhat with the firm, dusty and slightly short and ever-so-mildly dry finale. Note that my projected range implicitly assumes that the dryness will dissipate eventually. (Drink starting 2025).Burghound | 88-90 BH

There are 18 barrels of the 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, and it’s the usual blend of 60% Chenevery, 30% Porroux and 15% Clos Solon. Wafting from the glass with aromas of cherries, cassis, smoked meats, candied peel and cinnamon, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. Yields were low—around 30 hectoliters per hectare—explained by the old vines, some of which are trained in cordon.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 90-92 RP(Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils Morey St. Denis - Trilogie Villages Red) There is a top note of menthol to the moderately sauvage-inflected dark currant, plum and black raspberry aromas. The sleek, focused and vibrant medium-bodied flavors possess a similar saline nuance on the bright and lingering finish that possesses a hint of acid tang. (Drink starting 2028)Burghound | 88-91 BH(Morey St. Denis “Trilogie”- Domaine Hubert Lignier Père et Fils) The 2018 Trilogie villages is the more refined example of the two AC botltings from Morey St. Denis this year. The bouquet is nicely black fruity, wafting from the glass in a mix of black cherries, plums, woodsmoke, just a touch of beetroot, a fine base of soil and pigeon. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and ripely tannic, with a good core of fruit, fine focus and grip and a long, nascently complex and very well-balanced finish. This is a lovely AC. (Drink between 2026-2055)John Gilman | 91 JGThe 2018 Morey-Saint-Denis "Trilogie" comes from three lieux-dits, 60% from Chenevery (also from Purroux and Clos Solon). It has a quite a high-toned bouquet of black cherries and cassis fruit that just needs a little more delineation. The palate is better, offering sappy red fruit, fine acidity and orange peel and touches of marmalade on the finish. Fine, but I would drink this over the next decade, no longer.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM

The 2019 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was bottled in June and July ‘21. Very perfumed and floral scents on the nose, dark cherries, bergamot, damp earth and touches of clove, later hints of violet and blood orange (traits that I observed out of barrel). This is nicely detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a classy espresso-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent. (Drink between 2025-2050)Vinous Media | 95 VMZanetti divides the Clos des Epéneaux in four sections, which are all fermented and matured separately and then assembled. The assemblage of the three is the most compelling, with a mix of violet notes and expressive cherry fruit aromas on the attack, plus mineral, spice and saline notes that develop with time. There is plenty of body, but little of the tannic, slightly rustic character for which Pommard can be known. Drinking Window 2024 - 2034.Decanter | 94 DECA very ripe nose is comprised by notes of both red and dark currant along with a background hint of a kind of reduction that the Burgundians refer to as bourgeon de cassis. There is fine freshness and verve to the moderately dense, powerful, and muscular larger-scaled flavors that coat the palate with sappy dry extract before concluding in a dusty, austere, and firm finale. This is also relatively supple and opulent that will need to develop depth over the course of its aging curve. (Drink starting 2029)Burghound | 92 BH