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In the brilliant and very structured vintage of 2005, it is not surprising that Domaine Michel Gaunoux has produced several masterpieces. The 2005 Grands Épenots is a magical young bottle of Pommard that seems likely to easily live a hundred years. The bouquet is very, very deep and currently very closed, as it reluctantly offers up a stunning mélange of cherries, blood orange, smoke, gamebirds, a great base of complex soil tones, an exotic touch of mint, orange zest and mustard seed in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and rock solid right to the sappy core, with beautifully tangy acids, ripe, substantial tannins and absolutely brilliant length and grip on the still very primary finish. This will take many more years to fully blossom and reach its zenith, and should prove to be one on the longest-lived wines of this magical and very long-lived vintage. (Drink between 2025 - 2125)John Gilman | 96+ JGA ripe, serious and brooding nose is composed of impressively complex red currant, blue berry, plum, violet and warm earth aromas. Given how the ’05s are generally showing today, the tannins are actually quite fine and like the ’08 Rugiens, the mouth feel of the robust yet focused flavors is highly sophisticated. This should be capable of aging for decades and will need at least one more.Burghound | 94 BHA big, dense red, packed with sweet cherry, raspberry, spice and mineral flavors. It’s less forthcoming yet more concentrated than the Rugiens, yet shows freshness and length. Best from 2012 through 2030. 250 cases made, 50 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WS

(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Caillerets - Clos des Soixante Ouvrées" 1er 1er Cru Red) The ripest nose to this point exhibits liqueur-like notes of plum, blue berry and violets that complement well the equally ripe, opulent and mineral-inflected flavors that are also quite full-bodied, all wrapped in a detailed, vibrant and hugely long finish. The underlying material here is superb and this should easily improve for the next 12 to 15 years and last for an equivalent period thereafter. (Drink starting 2021)Burghound | 94 BHGood full, bright red. Reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, truffle and licorice; subdued but not at all roasted. Silky on entry, then dry and rich in the middle, with excellent depth and verve to the flavors of black and red fruits and spices. Very nicely judged extraction here has given the wine superb balance for 2009. The tannins seem a bit tougher today than the 2010 version, and this wine conveys an impression of lowish pH, suggesting that it will be long-lived. Cellarmaster Christophe Bouillot noted that a young parcel of ten-year-old vines provided acidity, while another one, where the vines are at least 60 years old, contributed inner-mouth energy, length and nobility of tannins.Vinous Media | 93 VMThe 2009 Volnay Clos des Soixante Ouvrees is one of the more delicate wines in the lineup. Here the fruit shows a redder tonality, while the structural components work more on linearity rather than depth. This is another thrilling wine from Pousse d-Or. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2049.This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPA delicious, soft wine, packed with ripe, almost sweet red fruits. More complexity comes from the integrated wood and acidity, although approachability is the dominant character.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Bright, dark red. Very ripe, musky aromas of red berries, cherry, spices, mocha and underbrush. Sappy and supple, with harmonious acidity giving shape to the seamless red fruit flavors. Quite suave and rich but not at all thick or heavy. Finishes with very fine tannins and superb length and lift. Owner Patrick Landanger told me that he has pulled out 40% of the old virused vines in this vineyard since the 2009 harvest, as they were yielding very little crop.Vinous Media | 93 VM(Domaine Pousse d'Or Volnay "Clos de la Bousse d'Or" 1er 1er Cru Red) This is slightly more complex if not more elegant with a more floral-infused nose that includes rose petal and violets on the plum and black cherry infused nose. There is excellent concentration to the detailed, intense and delicious flavors that possess that beguiling sense of underlying tension that carries over to the mouth coating and suave yet firm and enduring finish. (Drink starting 2020)Burghound | 92 BH

The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn’t as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it’s an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade’s patience.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94 RPPaul Zanetti tends to make two different cuvées from the Clos des Epeneaux, one from younger vines and one from the older, left side of the premier cru, planted between 65 and 98 years ago. The combination in bottle is definitely more than the sum of its parts. This is not a blockbuster vintage for what can be an ageworthy wine, but it’s still appealing in a lighter, more approachable mode, with some tannic grip but lots of perfume, finesse and succulent berry sweetness. Drinking Window 2024 - 2029Decanter | 94 DEC(Domaine Comte Armand/Clos des Epeneaux Pommard "Clos des Epeneaux" 1er Cru Red) There is still just enough wood present to merit mentioning as it frames the herbal tea-inflected blend of both red and dark currant scents that are cut with leather and underbrush nuances. The supple medium-bodied flavors possess reasonable though not distinguished mid-palate concentration before terminating in a lingering if slightly attenuated finish. The supporting tannins are sufficiently firm that this youthfully austere effort will need at least a few more years of keeping first. A Clos des Epeneaux of relative finesse. (Drink starting 2027)Burghound | 91 BH

The 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Beaurepaire Rouge has also turned out beautifully, mingling aromas of ripe cherries, cocoa nib, sweet soil tones and spices in a complex bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and sensuous, its ample core of fruit is underpinned by lively acids and melting tannins. This is one of the most texturally refined wines in the range this year, but for all the early accessibility that conveys, it will age with grace.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92+ RPAttractive spice, florals and a white-pepper and chalky edge to the nose. Elegant, svelte and gently peppery palate with smooth, fine-grained tannins. Drink over the next five years.James Suckling | 91 JS

Aromas of cherries, cinnamon, dark chocolate and rich soil tones introduce the 2018 Santenay 1er Cru Le Passetemps, a medium to full-bodied wine that’s velvety and enveloping, with a layered core of ripe but succulent fruit, powdery tannins and a long, resonant finish. Might this be the best Passetemps that Vincent has produced from this high-density 2004 planting? I’m certainly inclined to think so.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP

The 2019 Corton Clos des Maréchaudes Grand Cru, a monopole for Bichot, is matured with around 40% new oak. It has a higher-toned bouquet than the Aloxe-Corton Clos des Marechales, delivering scents of kirsch, crushed strawberry and pressed rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity, and nicely focused, displaying well-integrated oak on the black-pepper-tinged finish. Excellent. Vinous Media | 92-94 VM(Domaine du Pavillon (Pommard) - Domaines Albert Bichot Corton-Clos des Maréchaudes Grand Cru Red) This is compositionally similar to the 1er but notably more restrained. The powerful and muscular bigger-bodied flavors possess fine mid-palate density and ample minerality on the more persistent finish. This could use more depth but it’s clear there is a bit more overall potential here compared to the 1er. (Drink starting 2034)Burghound | 93 BHThis 0.54ha in the grand cru portion of the vineyard has yielded a wine of greater concentration than from the top of the terrace, where there is a bit more clay. There is an appreciable increase in quality - more density, more structure, more length and more depth to the fruit character. Impressive. Drinking Window 2024 - 2039.Decanter | 92 DEC

The 2019 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières derives from a parcel at the southern end of this large climat, which was planted in the early 1950s and where missing vines have never been replaced. Delivering aromas of sweet red berries, orange rind, rose petals and spices, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and perfumed, with lively acids and powdery tannins that assert themselves on the saline finish.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2019 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru was bottled in October 2020. Wild strawberry and raspberry feature on the nose, interwoven with iris and potpourri scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little more substance and concentration than the 2020, and fine grip and tension on the finish. This should give several years’ drinking pleasure.Vinous Media | 90 VM

The 2019 Corton Clos-du-Roi Grand Cru offers slightly more red fruit than the other two Cortons from Dubreuil-Fontaine, and smells spicier, with touches of cumin and clove. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins. This has the finest balance and the most elegance of the three Cortons tasted, demonstrating more terroir expression toward the finish, and a prudent sprinkling of white pepper on the aftertaste. Glorious.Vinous Media | 92-94 VM(Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Clos du Roi Grand Cru Red) Exceptionally ripe aromas include those of prune, cassis, warm earth and roasted fruit that seem a bit flat. There is much better freshness and verve on the palate of the mineral-suffused medium weight flavors that are relatively refined thanks to the fine-grained tannins shaping the firm, youthfully austere and beautifully long finish. The nose does not appeal to me though the palate impression is attractive, and the key question is how this will evolve and that is hard to predict. My rating offers the benefit of the doubt that the nose will eventually freshen. (Drink starting 2031)Burghound | 91 BH

Richly intense high tones of fresh cranberries, rhubarb and peppercorn contribute to a voluminous nose of overripe strawberries and freshly picked cherries. The palate is round and textured with ripe cherries, quince, limestone and salt, which leisurely integrate along its long finish. Cellar through 2028.Wine Enthusiast | 94 WEDelivers vibrant acidity that delineates black currant and blackberry fruit flavors, with floral, sandalwood, vanilla and earth accents. Features dense, fine-grained tannins and a finish that stretches out, revealing echoes of fruit and spices. Best from 2026 through 2040. 400 cases made, 26 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 93 WSMuch more subtle oak influence is present on the equally spicy and even more floral-suffused nose that blends notes of red raspberry with those of tea and dark cherry. There is a lovely inner mouth perfume to the energetic, sleek and tautly muscular flavors that possess excellent volume before terminating in a moderately austere, long and notably more complex finale. This is excellent though like all fine examples of Clos des Chênes, extended patience will be a virtue.Burghound | 91-94 BH

UNDER THE RADAR An elegant wine with a medium garnet colour and expressive aromas of raspberry, pomegranate and lavender. The texture is silky and delicate, with ripe fruit and an almost surprising density and length. The grapes come from 40-year-old vines in a 1.27ha parcel in the middle of the slope with southeast exposure. The grapes were destemmed, fermented on native yeasts, and lightly pumped over or punched down once daily. The wine is still ageing in cask, about 30% new.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also a ripe 2021 with its aromas of kirsch, plum liqueur and newly turned earth. Like the Marconnets, I love the gorgeous mouthfeel of the almost opulent, intense and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the balanced and impressively persistent finish. This too could use more depth but the highly attractive mouthfeel should make this appealing young while it’s aging. Lovely.Burghound | 93 BH

The domaine’s 0.67-hectare holding in premier cru Marconnets has delivered a wine with lovely ripe blackberry fruit with hints of mineral, smoke, and leather. The palate has impressive density and length, with firm tannins and a supple texture. The vines here are young but have given a charming wine that should drink well young but would doubtless continue to improve for a decade. The grapes are partly destemmed before fermentation and ageing in cask (30% new).Decanter | 93 DECThis is a ripe 2021 as the liqueur-like of cherry, raspberry and softly wooded aromas are unusual in the context of the vintage. I very much like the generous and sophisticated texture of the detailed middleweight flavors that culminate in a youthfully austere, compact and sneaky long finish. This is beautifully well-balanced if tightly wound so at least some patience is strongly suggested.Burghound | 93 BH

The yield in 2021 for Morot’s vines in Teurons was tiny – just five barrels per hectare. The grapes that survived made a beguiling wine, however, with a ripe raspberry fruit aroma and a smoky edge with salty mineral notes. The texture is supple and very fine, but not thin—the balance here is near ideal. The grapes were planted at the top of Teurons in 1963 and give a wine of concentration and depth.Decanter | 93 DECThis is also notably floral in character that adds interest to the essence of red cherry scents that are trimmed in pretty herbal tea, spice and earth nuances. There is obvious energy to the equally mineral-driven flavors that deliver excellent persistence and delineation on the youthfully austere bitter pit fruit-inflected finish. This is textbook Teurons with its delicate but quite punchy mouthfeel.Burghound | 92 BH

This ‘classique’ cuvée of Gravières is what is left after the old vines for the ‘Numerus Clausus’ bottling are removed (approximately 3.8 hectares). The remaining fruit still makes a compelling wine, with ripe red and black berry fruit aromas and hints of violets, earth, and leather. The texture is tannic but not astringent, and the tannins and fresh acidity carry this to a lovely lingering finish with great elegance and finesse. The destemmed fruit is given a cold soak and gently fermented before ageing in cask (25% new).Decanter | 92 DECThe 2021 Santenay Les Gravières 1er Cru is the main cuvée and comes from a considerable 3.8-hectare parcel. Slightly darker in colour, this has a clean and pure bouquet with dark cherries, citrus fruit - Mirabelle and Clementine, lightly spiced with just a hint of soy. The palate is medium-bodied with very pliant tannins, harmonious and focused, easygoing in the positive sense of the word. The wood tannins will require a little time to be fully assimilated.Vinous Media | 88-90 VM