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A banner wine for Gaja, the 2010 Sori San Lorenzo brings the infinite and ethereal aromas associated with Nebbiolo into startling focus and clarity. Again, like the Sori Tildin, the structure and tannic firmness of the wine will carry the wine forward over the years and decades ahead. It demands much more time until it fully blossoms. I walked through the San Lorenzo vineyard with Gaia Gaja and she showed me some of their recent activity. Every second row is planted with barley that acts as a natural rototiller given its aggressive root system. Borrowing other “New World” ideas, they’ve started compost piles with Californian red worms and are using (with less success, I’m told) wooden tree boxes to repopulate the birds. All of this must seem very odd to the neighbors. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.Just a short while ago, in the midst of one of Italy’s darkest political hours when forming a functioning government seemed like an exercise in futility, someone sent me a Facebook petition proposing Angelo Gaja as a candidate for President of the Republic of Italy. Although Angelo himself would brush it off as jest, that seedling of a (good) idea took the Internet by firestorm. What he has demonstrated over the years, besides from his infectious enthusiasm and keen ability to communicate his thoughts with brilliant clarity and gumption, is a natural ability for leadership. Barbaresco is lucky to have an Angelo Gaja, the Langhe is lucky to have him, and Italy is, too.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 98 RPThe 2010 Sorì San Lorenzo jumps from the glass with lavender, violets, plums, smoke and licorice, all in a lifted, precise style built on finesse. The tannins are remarkably sweet and polished for such a young wine. The pulsating fruit and sense of structure are reminiscent of the 1999, but here, there is perhaps a little more finesse and slightly more compelling balance.Antonio Galloni | 97 AGAromas of marble, dried cherries and iron, with hints of iodine. Full-bodied, tannic and chewy, yet balanced and refined all the same. This needs the most age of the single-vineyard, 2010 Gaja Nebbiolos. Try in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis muscular red features ample fruit, with a fine quality to the stiff tannins, offering loads of cherry, tar and sandalwood flavors, with excellent length. Give this a few years. Best from 2016 through 2032. 500 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Rampolla’s 2010 d’Alceo is utterly spellbinding today. Even better than it was last year, the 2010 impresses for its exceptional balance and pure finesse. Everything is simply in the right place. Silky, layered and unbelievably expressive, the 2010 d’Alceo is a thrill from the very first taste. Over the decades the Di Napoli family has made so many breathtaking wines, but the 2010 d’Alceo is something more than breathtaking, and that something more is hard to express with words. Readers lucky enough to taste the 2010, however, will know it right away. What a magnificent wine this is.Vinous Media | 100 VMPlenty of currant, herb and mineral character. Bright and lifted with so much complexity. Medium to full body, fine tannins and a fresh finish. Layered and beautiful. From organically grown grapes. Cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. Better in 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSA mix of blackberry, black cherry, cedar, tobacco and spice flavors runs up against dense, muscular tannins in this tight, linear red. Juicy and vibrant, with plenty of fruit, this just needs time to harmonize. Terrific length. Best from 2018 through 2028. 1,250 cases made. — BSWine Spectator | 95 WSThe 2010 Vigna d’Alceo Vino da Tavola is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot folded so deep within one another, it’s difficult to hear the varietal voice of the wine. Dried cherries and blackberry appear as primary tones, but the wine also offers a good dose of spice, black olive, rosemary twig and dried plum. The wine takes its time to open in the glass and will probably require much patience in terms of cellar aging as well.Robert Parker | 94 RP

Brilliant garnet and streamlined in appearance, the 2010 Barolo Bricco Rocche is understated, eloquent and extremely elegant. The magic was lost in the warmer 2009 edition, but the 2010 expression aspires to the highest level of Nebbiolo craftsmanship. This wine is like a musical prelude: Those soft harmonies that build in momentum and volume before the whole symphony begins. Barolo Bricco Rocche needs more time before it reaches it optimal drinking window. It’s music to my ears. Drink: 2017-2035.Ceretto delivers a seamless performance in 2010 with an impressive succession of top scoring wines across its various vineyard designates. The 2009 lineup showed less consistency, but the 2010 Ceretto wines are nothing short of irresistible.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RPSweet tobacco, freshly cut flowers, rose petals and sweet red berries, all framed by silky tannins are the signatures in Ceretto’s 2010 Barolo Bricco Rocche. Graced with exquisite finesse, the Bricco Rocche offers a little more textural polish than the Prapò at this early stage. At the same time, elements of intrigue remain, suggesting the 2010 isn’t showing all of its cards just yet. Overall, this is a fairly dark Barolo for the site at this stage, although the wine does open up very nicely with time in the glass. Sweet floral and spice notes are woven into the finish. Today, the Bricco Rocche is the most elusive of Ceretto’s 2010s. I can’t wait to see how it ages.Antonio Galloni | 96 AGA young Barolo with complexity and style. Reserved and held back. Full body, with layers of lightly chewy yet polished tannins. It unfolds on your palate. All in finesse. Better in 2018.James Suckling | 96 JSThis is spicy and elegant, with savory notes of tobacco and tar surrounding the core of sweet cherry and licorice. Firm and lean, featuring tea and mineral accents on the finish. Complex and refined overall. Best from 2018 through 2032. 140 cases made, 12 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSBlack cherry, red raspberry, oak, espresso, coffee, white pepper and sage sensations take center stage on this tightly wound red. The nervous acidity needs time to soften, and the astringent wood tannins leave a drying finish. Drink after 2020.Wine Enthusiast | 90 WE

How many dinners anywhere start with a wine on a level with the 2010 Ornellaia? I imagine not many. But that’s exactly the way we get going. Super-expressive aromatics soar out of the glass as the 2010 shows off its personality. Sweet herbs, tobacco, licorice, mocha and tar wrap around a core of intense dark fruit. Racy, powerful and majestic, the 2010 is a total stunner.Antonio Galloni | 98 AGPoured from the special anniversary bottle, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia is a truly outstanding wine that leaves a lasting memory for those who are lucky enough to enjoy it. What stands out is the absolutely seamless-seamless-seamless (yes, it’s worth repeating three times) integration of its many moving parts. The wine magically transitions from cherry, spice, chocolate and espresso in one melodic and continuous loop. It exudes balance and elegance over long, delicious minutes. It is profoundly impressive. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Of all the grapevines planted on the Ornellaia estate, the 2010 vintage showed best results with Merlot, says Leonardo Raspini. Because the harvest was later than usual, the early-ripening grape enjoyed a slow and steady evolution.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RPThe 2010 Ornellaia celebrates the wine’s 25th anniversary, and it could not have been a more spectacular vintage. It opens with aromas of crushed blue flowers, black berries, pipe tobacco and thyme that give way to an elegant, structured and polished palate. It delivers intense blackberry flavors layered with white pepper, Mediterranean herbs, mineral and mocha brightened by fresh acidity alongside smooth, velvety tannins. This will age and develop for decades. Drink 2016–2040.Wine Enthusiast | 97 WEA wine with a wonderful depth of berry, chocolate and hazelnut character. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a round, delicious finish. Fruit-forward and exuberant: more in-your-face fruit to this wine than in many past vintages. Enticing all the same. This comes in a special bottle commemorating the 25th anniversary of the wine coming onto the market. Try in 2016.James Suckling | 95 JSA muscular, impenetrable red, with tightly wound tannins guiding the black cherry, plum, herb, soy and oak spice flavors. Monolithic today, this needs time to find equilibrium. Best from 2016 through 2032. 2,200 cases made.Wine Spectator | 94 WS

Rose petal and ripe fruits on the nose. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a citrus undertone. Lemon rind texture. Juicy and delicious. Give it a year or two to soften. 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet Franc, aged 15 months in French barrels.James Suckling | 90 JS

It started in 1993, with 3ha of vineyards; now Buglioni has 54ha. This riserva is made only in the best vintages, with the best hand-picked grapes. Aged for 30 months in tonneaux, it has tertiary notes of balsam, dry leaves, sweet tobacco and jam. Bramble fruits and summer-fruit pudding surround the taste buds. Intense, elegant and poised, with great length and huge structure. Try it with bitter chocolate or enjoy it on its own. Drinking Window 2022 - 2030.Decanter | 96 DECInviting aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, new leather, cocoa and forest floor emerge from the glass. The concentrated palate doles out black currant jam, licorice, black pepper and tobacco alongside fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019–2027.Wine Enthusiast | 92 WESome 3,570 bottles were made and each one is numbered. In some parts of the Valpolicella, 2010 was considered a difficult vintage, but not here. The 2010 Amarene della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Teste Dure is extracted, inky and soft. The wine is showing some maturity and evolution, with licorice and tar behind primary notes of dried blackberry, plum and raisin. I would suggest a slightly reduced drinking window as a result, maybe pairing it alongside lamb with balsamic reduction. The next time this Riserva was made was 2015, and the folks at Buglioni have been experimenting with whole-cluster fermentations and amphorae aging too. So far, they are happy with the results, so we will surely see these methods used in upcoming releases.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIntense soy-sauce and cooked-plum nose that won’t be for everyone, but on the palate this is rich and silky. Good length. Drink now with mature hard cheeses.James Suckling | 91 JS