Wine Ratings

wines

The 2015 Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile is clear and intense but highly refined on the nose that perfectly blends mineral with concentrated lemon and smoky flavors. Round, concentrated and very elegant on the palate, this is a slightly sweeter than normal Riesling, but it is highly finessed, well-structured and perfectly salty with a long and tension-filled finish. Fine tannins reflect the limestone/marl terroir of the Geisberg Grand Cru with the southeast-facing Osterberg Grand Cru. The 2015 will not go on the market earlier than 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RPVibrant straw-green. The penetrating, explosive nose offers yellow apple, musky ginger, flint and chamomile. Dense, sappy and highly concentrated; peach and balsamic flavors are complicated by a hint of crystallized citrus peel. Displays lovely balance from start to very long finish. This is a noteworthy step up in concentration and complexity from Trimbach’s Mandelberg and Schlossberg Rieslings, however delightful those last two wines are in 2015. In keeping with the hot, dry 2015 vintage, this strikes me as sweeter than usual for the Fréderic Emile, though by the time it goes on sale in seven or eight years, it will taste less sweet than it is today. Clearly, the berries and bunches were extremely small in 2015, and so the wine is especially concentrated, rich and glyceral, all of which contribute a dimension of sweetness. However, the small berries didn’t give much juice and only 26,000 bottles were produced in 2015, instead of the more usual 40,000. Always a blend of grapes grown in the Geisberg and Osterberg sites, the wine’s makeup in 2015 is about 60/40 in favor of the Osterberg, but not surprisingly, the Geisberg’s presence really comes through in a hot year like 2015. I personally like it more when the Osterberg stands out, but that said, this is a really outstanding wine in the making, one of the best young FEs I have memory of.Vinous Media | 95+ VMVery complex white with slate, stone, light petrol, and smoke aromas. Lemon fruit. Full body, yet vivid and intense. Shows some phenolic tension yet brightness and intensity at the end. A gorgeous 2015. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 95 JS

The 2020 Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg Dudenstein is another adorable wine from Jean Boxler. From about 70- 80-year-old vines on deeper, marlier soils with a granite layer, the 2020 shows a coolish, clear and refined bouquet of crushed stones, iodine and delicate citrus notes. On the palate, this is a vivacious, even nervous, vibrantly fresh and mineral Sonnenberg with bright and fresh Riesling fruit and a leaner, more vertical structure compared to Vanne and Eckberg. The Dudenstein is less powerful and rich compared to its brothers, but it’s a classic, stimulating and refreshing Riesling with great aging potential. This is about 14% alcohol, which we do not taste or feel. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 96 RP

From vines planted in 1953 (which Boxler rented in 2019) that give small bunches with highly concentrated fruit, the 2020 Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg Vanne offers a clear, deep and fresh, very delicate but also complex bouquet of cold, wet stones with coolish, herbal, lemon-scented notes. Beautifully defined, precise and elegant. On the palate, this is a tight, pure, crunchy and salty Riesling with great intensity, fine tannins and a dry and serious, almost aristocratic, endlessly salty finish. This is a Riesling from crushed stones. An amazing Sommerberg indeed. About 14% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97 RP