100 Point Wines

wines

The 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is a monument to old vine Grenache as well as traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape. Boasting a natural alcohol of 16%, this wine, which was bottled in spring, 2003 because its fermentation was extremely slow, has virtually everything you could ever want in a profound Chateauneuf du Pape. The color is inky/ruby/purple to the rim. The extraordinary nose reveals aromas of kirsch liqueur, new saddle leather, animal fur, Provencal herbs, spice box, licorice, and a salty sea breeze character. On the palate, the wine is enormous, with an unctuosity, thickness, and purity that must be tasted to be believed. Over 95% of this offering is old vine Grenache, and the rest a field blend of ancient vines. Representing the essence of Chateauneuf du Pape, it possesses so much concentration that it is easy to pose the question ... “where’s the tannin?” Analytically, it has very high levels of tannin, but the tannin is barely noticeable given the wine’s exaggerated wealth of richness and power. This is a modern day legend in the making, and despite its precociousness and ease in smelling and consuming, it will not hit its prime for another decade. It should last for 25-30 years, and take its place among some of the greatest Chateauneuf du Papes ever made. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030+Robert Parker | 100 RPA terrific bottle, the 2000 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Da Capo was firing on all cylinders, showing an awesome bouquet of cured meats, spice, stems, and garrigue as well as a massive core of sweet Grenache fruit. Still deep ruby colored and surprisingly fresh (I’ve had more evolved bottles), it’s a huge, full-bodied 2000 that has a stacked mid-palate, sweet tannin, and just an exuberant amount of fruit. It’s as sexy and voluptuous as wine gets, and I suspect well stored bottles will continue evolving gracefully going forward.Jeb Dunnuck | 98 JDLike staring down into a well. A seemingly bottomless glass, full of dark currant, chocolate-covered espresso bean, roasted game, fig compote, iron and loam flavors, all supported by iron-clad structure and riveting acidity. Terrifically endowed, with a deft sense of balance. Drink now through 2020. 500 cases made, 100 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 97 WS(tasted from foudre) Saturated medium ruby. High-toned, highly complex nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, currant, animal fur, chocolate and licorice, plus a whiff of lime skin. Superripe, dense and chewy, with a solidity that goes beyond the "regular" release. Deeply chocolatey, slightly port-like flavors. Huge tannins coat the front teeth on the extremely long finish. Even richer than the classique, but shows less evidence of alcoholic warmth. Paul Feraud told me their enologist thought there was still a slight residue of malic acidity. "We’d have to filter it if we bottled it now," he said, explaining why the wine was still in wood.Vinous Media | 94-95 VM

The spectacular 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve (200 cases of a 95% Grenache/5% Syrah blend) is a monumental example of the appellation. This extraordinary offering boasts an opaque purple color as well as awesome aromatics consisting of ground pepper, blueberry and blackberry jam, and kirsch liqueur. It is full-bodied, with multiple layers, a seamless integration of acidity and tannin, and a finish that lasts over a minute. Despite its high alcohol (15.5%), it is surprisingly elegant. This wine is kept completely in old wood barriques prior to being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It comes from the same parcel as the Vieilles Vignes, but this particular section of the vineyard is a plot of 100-year old Grenache vines planted in a vein of sand that runs through what is otherwise a rocky vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025.Robert Parker | 100 RPA recipe for a classic? Marry flavors of dark fig bread, currant paste and plum reduction with grippy tar and licorice snap notes. Lay that over racy graphite elements and add in smoky black tea, Christmas pudding and blueberry sauce notes. Back it all up with vibrant acidity. This is an awesome combination of power and definition, and it’s remarkably youthful today.—2001 Châteauneuf-du-Pape non-blind retrospective (November 2011). Drink now through 2026. — JMWine Spectator | 96 WS

The biggest surprise in these tastings was the phenomenal performance of the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet. Normally a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Mourvedre, the 2007’s composition changed to 80% Grenache (all aged in tank) and 20% Mourvedre (aged in small oak barrels.) This wine literally blew me away. Since this is a PG-rated publication, I can not print my original comments upon tasting this wine. Let’s just say the exquisite aromatics were astounding. They include creme de cassis, lavender, roasted meats, new saddle leather, and spice box. The phenomenal aromatics were matched by equally compelling flavors, texture, and purity. Offering a thrill a second, this full-bodied wine exhibits awesome concentration, impeccable balance, and a finish that lasts nearly 60 seconds. I had a difficult time spitting out this amazing elixir, and I kept returning to it during the course of the morning tasting just to confirm my initial impression. The good news is about 500 cases were produced. It should drink well for two decades or more.Robert Parker | 100 RPThe 2007 Mas de Boislauzon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Quet is a blend of 80% old vine (80+ year) Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre. I had just recently drunk through a full bottle of this and it was fun to get to taste it side by side with the ’06. Frankly, while I prefer the ’07, the two wines have more in common than not. The ’07 sports heavenly aromatics of roasted garrigue, melted licorice, flowers, and meaty notes that give way to perfectly ripe Grenache fruit. Even larger scaled on the palate than the ’06, this remains perfectly balanced, deft and almost elegant. Give these 5 or more years in the cellar and then drink over the following 15. If drinking anytime soon, give it plenty of air.Jeb Dunnuck | 97 JDDeep ruby. Sexy, expansive aromas of red and dark berry preserves, smoky herbs, potpourri and exotic apricot; the smoky character reminds me of the northern Rhone. Mineral-driven raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are alluringly sappy and open-knit, with notes of candied flowers and fruitcake adding complexity. This very sexy wine is extremely complex right now.Vinous Media | 94 VMThis shows a noticeably burly edge, particularly for the vintage, with espresso, roasted chestnut, loam, bittersweet cocoa and licorice root notes wrapped around a core of black currant and braised fig fruit. The dark, muscular finish has lots in reserve. Best from 2010 through 2027. 500 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 94 WS

For the fourth time, the Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo has been produced, and for the fourth time, it has received a perfect score although I might back off the 2000’s perfect score based on the fact that it seems to be more of an upper-ninety point wine than pure perfection these days. The 2007 may come closest in style to the 1998, the debut vintage, although the tannins are sweeter and the wine is perhaps fatter and richer in the mouth. The alcohols in these cuvees can be very high, ranging from 16.1% in 2003, 15.8% in 2000, 16.3% in 1998, to 15.5% (the lowest ever) in 2007. An inky/purple color is followed by aromas of smoked meats, Peking duck, licorice, lavender, aged beef, grilled steak blood, black currants, plums, sauteed cepes and soy. Enormously concentrated, broad, expansive and massive but not over the top, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is impossible to imagine unless one has a bottle to work through over the course of 4 to 5 hours. Although they advertise using all 13 authorized varietals, this wine is over 90% Grenache, largely from the famed La Crau section of Chateauneuf du Pape. They do have other vineyards from which they pull some of the fruit that goes into the Cuvee da Capo, including St.-Jean, Esquilons and occasionally Monpertuis. The 2007 seems to be broader, fatter, more unctuously textured and more flattering to drink at this stage than the 1998 was. In that sense, the evolutionary development may resemble their 2003s. The 2007 was bottled in February, 2010, and my anticipated drinking dates are 2014-2030+.Robert Parker | 100 RPEven more impressive than the Réservée and a noticeable step up, the 2007 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Da Capo is one deep, dense puppy and yields awesome aromas of cassis and blackberry fruit, licorice, dry aged beef, and copious stem and garrigue on the nose. The purity and delineation are truly something and the wine has spectacular intensity, depth, and richness. The palate is full-bodied with a pure, precise texture, perfect balance through the mid-palate and a finish that delivers so much tannin and extract that it’s almost mouth-numbing. Give this rock star wine 7 to 10 years in the cellar and then drink over the following 2 decades.Jeb Dunnuck | 99 JDInky ruby. Pungent, exotically perfumed aromas of dark berry compote, Asian spices and garrigue, with bright minerality adding vivacity. Powerful and deeply concentrated but also shockingly fresh and lithe, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and notes of candied flowers and licorice. The finish is smooth, sappy and extremely persistent, with echoing floral and herb notes.Vinous Media | 96 VMThis shows a remarkable marriage of density and grace, as layers of roasted fig, braised chestnut and dried blood orange stay supple and plush, embedded with rounded grip and alluring cocoa, graphite and incense notes. There’s a long, espresso- and hoisin sauce–filled finish. Best from 2011 through 2030. 670 cases made. — JMWine Spectator | 96 WS

A blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre brought up in demi-muids, the 2010 Châteauneuf Du Pape Collection Charles Giraud comes mostly from the southern part of the appellation and has consistently been one of the greatest wines made in each vintage. Revealing a more ruby hue as well as a stunning bouquet of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, gamey meats, spring flowers, and incense, it almost has a Rayas like level of complexity and nuances. Beautifully textured, seamless, perfectly balanced, and still powerful and opulent on the palate, this is an amazing wine in every sense. I’ve been lucky enough to drink over a case of this magical elixir and it’s been incredibly consistent from my cellar. It’s certainly in its drink window today yet has another decade of prime drinking, and I suspect a gradual decline after that.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JDAn incredible wine that I thought was pure perfection on release, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Collection Charles Giraud still stays at the top of my hierarchy today. The most masculine, powerful and concentrated of the trio, it possesses massive amounts of fruit to go with darker-styled fruits, pan drippings, charred steak and roasted herbs. It has everything you could want in a Southern Rhone. Give it another year or two and enjoy bottles through 2030.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 100 RPMassive yet remarkably graceful at the same time, with layer upon layer of fig, plum sauce and linzer torte flavors studded with espresso, graphite and black tea. Petrichor, shiso leaf and smoldering tobacco notes fill in on the broad and very muscular yet refined finish. This has terrific weight and loads of grip, yet it's effortless to drink thanks to the seamless mouthfeel. A stunning combination of power and grace. Best from 2015 through 2035.Wine Spectator | 99 WSGlass-staining ruby. Dark fruit preserves, cherry-cola, floral oils and Smoky Indian spices on the exotically perfumed nose. Stains the palate with deeply pitched blackberry and blueberry flavors, with zesty spice and mineral nuances adding vivacity and cut. Manages to be both weighty and lively, finishing with superb clarity, supple tannins and lingering sweetness.Vinous Media | 95 VM

Lastly, the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape XXL is pure magic and one of the most singular wines out there. Based on 65% Grenache and the rest Syrah and other varieties, it was only 30% destemmed and brought up all in demi-muids. Where previous vintages of this beauty were almost over the top, the 2019 shows a more elegant, pure, balanced profile as well as incredible aromatics of ripe red and black fruits, herbes de Provence, ground pepper, violets, and other notes of Southern Rhône-like goodness. Incredibly powerful and opulent, it somehow manages to stay perfectly balanced, has a wonderful sense of freshness, silky yet substantial tannins, and an awesome finish. Unfortunately, there are just over 300 cases produced, so it won’t be easy to find, but this ranks with the all-time greats. It deserves 4-5 years of bottle age and should evolve for 30 years if well-stored.Jeb Dunnuck | 100 JD