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1985 Haut Brion Blanc

1985 Haut Brion Blanc

98 RP-NM

Featured Review
The 1985 Château Haut Brion Blanc is candidate for the best dry white Bordeaux produced that decade - period. Having tasted this nectar two or three times in recent months, I can vouch for its extraordinary intensity on the nose: candied orange peel, citrus lemon, cold wet limestone and honeysuckle notes that shimmer in the glass. It almost has a Chablis-like penetration—imagine if Raveneau made white Bordeaux. The palate is perfectly balanced and after 30 years, it as fresh as a daisy, citrus fresh, with a killer line of mineralité, squeezed lime and an almost slate-like note (try licking some to see what I mean—no one will look). The tension, the depth and length of this Haut Brion Blanc are as good as you will find...if you can find it nowadays. Simply breathtaking, anyone with bottles in their cellar will be handsomely rewarded for their patience. Tasted August 2015. Robert Parker Neal Martin

Robert Parker | 98 RP-NM

Critic Reviews

The 1985 Château Haut Brion Blanc is candidate for the best dry white Bordeaux produced that decade - period. Having tasted this nectar two or three times in recent months, I can vouch for its extraordinary intensity on the nose: candied orange peel, citrus lemon, cold wet limestone and honeysuckle notes that shimmer in the glass. It almost has a Chablis-like penetration—imagine if Raveneau made white Bordeaux. The palate is perfectly balanced and after 30 years, it as fresh as a daisy, citrus fresh, with a killer line of mineralité, squeezed lime and an almost slate-like note (try licking some to see what I mean—no one will look). The tension, the depth and length of this Haut Brion Blanc are as good as you will find...if you can find it nowadays. Simply breathtaking, anyone with bottles in their cellar will be handsomely rewarded for their patience. Tasted August 2015.

Robert Parker Neal Martin | 98 RP-NM
The 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc is one of my favourite vintages in recent years. This bottle does not disappoint. Youthful in colour, it maintains that disarming intensity on the nose that knocks you sideways: cold wet limestone, sea cave, honeysuckle and this bottle showing a touch of quince. Previously I made comparisons towards Chablis, although this maybe too rich and decadent. The palate offers stunning balance with citrus lemon and that killer, flint-like tension that drives the finish. Ah, now we are talking Chablis! It is a phenomenal, almost effervescent, life-affirming, stellar Haut-Brion Blanc that stands alongside the 1989 as one of the best ever. Tasted at home in Guildford.

Vinous Media | 98 VM
(Château Haut-Brion Blanc (Graves)) This is one of the wines that I never bought enough of for my own cellar and only have a few bottles left these days. This was a major mistake. So, every time I get to drink one at a tasting or dinner, it is an immense pleasure. This most recent bottle of the 1985 Haut-Brion Blanc, which was served as a warm up for a dinner with members of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in Atlanta (thank you again gents!), was right at its apogee and absolutely singing, offering up a pure and classic bouquet of apple, fresh fig, petrol, paraffin, a lovely touch of grassiness, chalky soil tones, citrus peel and a suave framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and vibrant, with a lovely core of fruit, fine soil signature and grip, zesty acids and a very long, complex and utterly refined finish. Lovely juice. (Drink between 2016-2040).

John Gilman | 94 JG
Lean and fragrant, with fresh, bright apple and peach flavors that linger on the subtle finish. Has plenty of elegance and grace, still feels youthful and has room to grow.--Haut-Brion vertical.

Wine Spectator | 90 WS

Wine Details for 1985 Haut Brion Blanc

Type of Wine Bordeaux White : In the world of wine, all other regions must bow before Bordeaux. The absurdly-talented white wine producers continue to assert their dominance by bringing out the true potential of varietals such as Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Sauvignon Gris. If you have even the slightest bit of appreciation for fine white wine, these bottles will change your life.
Varietal Bordeaux Blend
Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Overview

Producer Chateau Haut Brion : In order to be classified as a First Growth of perhaps the most esteemed, prestigious and famous wine region in the world, the wine must be of incredible quality. First Growth status is reserved for the finest wines in Bordeaux and with it comes profound recognition and lofty expectations. The five Chateau that enjoy this luxurious title have in common – wines that exude ethereal superiority over the greatest wines in the world. However, one of these does not hail from the fertile and infamous soils of Medoc.

The wine of Chateau Haut Brion is not just incredible but also the only one born outside the precious lands of the Medoc. Pessac-Leognan, which is known for its well-drained, deep gravel soils is home to Haut Brion. These soils are characteristic of the northern part of the appellation, while clay and limestone are typically found farther south. The landscape is higher in elevation than that of the Medoc, with rolling hills that sweep along the left bank of the Garonne River. The climate here is warmer due to its southern location and its proximity to the city of Bordeaux. This unique Terroir awards Haut Brion with great success.

After traveling to Bordeaux in 1787, Thomas Jefferson, serving as America’s French ambassador, wrote in his diary; “The soils of Haut Brion, which I examined in great detail is made up of sand, in which there is near as much round gravel or small stones and very little loam like the soils of the Medoc.” It is interesting to note the similarities in soil type with that of Haut Brion’s fellow First Growth properties. While it enjoys the typical Medoc soil structure, it is also higher in elevation and with the warmer climate, the terroir is so unique and rewarding that it makes the inconceivable feat of becoming a First Growth that does not reside in the Medoc a bit more fathomable.

The History of this great estate is long and distinguished and includes many historical records regarding its impressive excellence, in not only its wine and terroir, but also its proficient bottling process. Chateau Haut Brion dates back to 1521, making it the oldest, continuously working winery in Bordeaux. On April 10, 1663, Samuel Peps (The Robert Parker of his days) wrote the following comment after tasting what was to him a new Bordeaux wine while at London’s Royal Oak Tavern, “There I drank a sort of French wine called Ho-Bryan that hath a good and most particular taste I never met.” On that day, Chateau Haut Brion entered the history books as being the world’s first wine to earn a professional review.

Another piece of historical acclaim is contained in a letter dated April 6, 1850, written by Joseph-Eugene Larrieu from an American wine merchant, named Loreilhe. In the letter, he complained that he did not receive enough cases of Chateau Haut Brion to satisfy his customers. Conversely, he praised Haut Brion for its packaging, stating that it was done with the greatest of care. The note also included, “labels and capsules bearing your name, which is also branded onto the cork as well as glass seal on the bottles neck.” This documentation could make Haut Brion the first major Bordeaux estate to bottle its own wine.

And of course, in 1855 Haut Brion was officially awarded First Growth status which was well deserved as Lafite, Latour and Margaux were the only other wines considered in the same class at that time. The history, allure and elite standing of Chateau Haut Brion and considering it is the sole First Growth not to hail from the Medoc, makes it a unique and treasured estate.

50 hectares of vines of the illustrious Chateau Haut Brion are planted to 45.4% Merlot, 43.9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.7% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Three hectares of the estate are planted to 51.5% Semillon and 48.5% Sauvignon Blanc and are used to source the grapes for Haut Brion Blanc. Annual production is 10,000-12,000 cases and around 650 to 850 cases for the Blanc.

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