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1989 Vieux Chateau Certan

1989 Vieux Chateau Certan

95 JG

Critic Reviews

(Vieux Château Certan) The 1989 Vieux Château Certan is one of the finest wines on the Right Bank in this landmark vintage and the wine is starting to really show beautifully, but to my palate, is deserving of at least another handful of years in the cellar before really having at it in earnest. The bouquet is beautifully developed today, wafting from the glass in a complex blend of black plums, sweet dark berries, cigar ash, tobacco leaf, gravelly soil tones, black tea, a hint of chipotle pepper, woodsmoke and a whisper of paraffin in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and still climbing in quality, with a rock solid core, excellent soil signature, ripe, moderate tannins and outstanding length and grip on the complex, balanced and vibrant finish. This is a great vintage of VCC and deserves a bit more time in the cellar to further stretch its wings. (Drink between 2023-2075)

John Gilman | 95 JG
The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favorite wines of that decade. The bouquet shows no signs of relinquishing that title with gorgeous black truffle, bay leaf, warm gravel and briary scents that are simply beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, "warm earth" on the entry, leather and truffle, great depth here with sublime precision on the finish, which is bridled with hints of mushroom and cloves. Maybe this is reaching its peak? Then again, it shows absolutely no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. This is nothing short of a wondrous Pomerol from Alexandre Thienpont. Tasted January 2016.

Robert Parker Neal Martin | 94 RP-NM
The 1989 Vieux Château Certan is a commonly seen vintage. This last bottle is consistent with previous notes. It has an entrancing, inviting bouquet of luscious mulberry entwined with clove and cedar, and later on suggestions of chestnut and Earl Grey. I recommend decanting the 1989, as it always benefits from aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, still quite backward and with good grip. Opens with aeration to offer captivating garrigue-tinged black fruit that lingers in the mouth. This is always a pleasure. Tasted blind at The Glasshouse restaurant in London.

Vinous Media | 94 VM
Here is another ultraripe nose, showing dried fruits and treacle tar aromas. Full-bodied, with very ripe flavors of dried beef, raisin and spices, verging on rustic. Impressive palate. Yes, this is a little dry and tannic, even austere, but I love the opulence.--'89/'99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now.

Wine Spectator | 93 WS

Wine Details for 1989 Vieux Chateau Certan

Type of Wine Bordeaux Red : Picture in your mind a combination of cedar, lead pencil, blackcurrant, plum and mineral aromatics, and texture that caresses your palate like a playful lover. The experience is thrilling from the first whiff to the final seconds of a tannic, generous finish - that is what you'll get from a Bordeaux Red
Varietal Bordeaux Blend
Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Overview

Producer Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan : Great wine estates understand the importance of allowing the natural landscape and climate to dictate grape varieties cultivated. Though Pomerol is part of Bordeaux, it differs in climate and geology from the Medoc, where Cabernet Sauvignon reigns. Pomerol is Merlot territory, where high clay content lay deep below the surface with mostly sand and gravel with a high proportion of stone on top allowing the vines to prosper. Chateau Vieux Chateau Certan is one of the oldest in the appellation and has been successfully exploiting the benefits of its terroir; producing some of the greatest wines not only in Pomerol, but perhaps in all of Bordeaux.

Though the land of Pomerol is relatively flat, Vieux Chateau Certan rests atop the Pomerol Plateau, where its vines abut those of Chateau Petrus. This is where the grapes of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and miniscule amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon enjoy perfect harmony of complex soil composition and a unique micro-climate. Its geographical location farther south on the right bank lends to its warmer temperatures and an earlier ripening season.

The 14 hectares of Vieux Chateau Certan are planted in one single block which is made up of 23 plots. Each is managed individually according to soil type, grape variety and age of vines. The soils are varied subtly and contain a very clayey part planted mainly with Merlot (70%), a gravel-clay part planted with Cabernet Franc (25%), and a very gravely part planted with Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). Each planting is an impressive display of human talent and respect for nature and the anticipation of what the terroir will best allow to succeed.

Founded at the beginning of the 16th century by the Demay family, who were well known for their work in the Bordeaux wine trade. The wines we know today as Vieux Chateau Certan were originally sold under the name “Sertan.” Their formative years enjoyed great success as it was considered one of the top wines in Pomerol if not the best. In truth, since its inception Vieux Chateau Certan has displayed the impressive character of a top Bordeaux.

In 1924, Georges Thienpont, a popular Belgian Bordeaux wine merchant purchased the estate. He was already a successful landowner of the Saint-Emilion property of Troplong Mondot, but his relationship to Vieux Chateau Certan was important, as was the wine’s success and image in the market place. He developed a savvy marketing ploy in an effort to discover which of his clients were buying his wine. In discreet fashion, he implanted the use of distinctive pink capsule that we still see on the bottles today. Pink was also the color of the moment for Parisian designers, making the look of the bottle quite chic.

The Thienpont family remains in control of the estate today, continuing the efforts of maintaining the prestige and success that Vieux Chateau Certan has relished since the 16th century. A mighty task to live up to, but it rests dutifully in the hands of Georges Thienpont’s grandson Alexandre. He lives and works for his wine and is known in Bordeaux as the man who intimately knows each vine in his 14 hectare vineyard. It is safe to say that the wine bottle with the pink capsule’s legacy will continue to live on and prosper.

He has since brought Vieux Chateau Certan to its golden age. The wines have received world-wide acclaim for their bold character, purity, elegance, suppleness and complexity, which are typical for the terroir and micro-climate of the Pomerol plateau. Alexander introduced a second wine, La Gravette de Certan, and in keeping with tradition, it too has the distinctive pink capsule. The Grand Vin has an annual production of 5,000 cases. The remaining fruit goes into the making of the second wine or is sold as a generic Pomerol wine.

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