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1996 Comte Lafon Meursault les Perrieres
96 WS
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Review
Elegant and classy, focused and beautifully oaked, this brims with pear, tropical and grilled game. The rich, velvety, minerally mouthfeel is inspiring as it swirls around the palate like a powerful tornado bursting with sweet, ripe flavors. Best from 2006 through 2016.
Wine Spectator
Wine Spectator | 96 WS
Critic Reviews
Elegant and classy, focused and beautifully oaked, this brims with pear, tropical and grilled game. The rich, velvety, minerally mouthfeel is inspiring as it swirls around the palate like a powerful tornado bursting with sweet, ripe flavors. Best from 2006 through 2016.
Wine Spectator | 96 WS
(Meursault “Perrières”- Domaines des Comtes Lafon) I have tasted the 1996 Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon on four occasions in the last several years, with three of the bottles in varying degrees of premature oxidation, and the fourth fresh as a daisy and aging exactly as one would expect from this wine in its youth. Here is the note on the last pristine bottle tasted and would be indicative of how a perfect bottle should show today. Of course, with premox, one never knows if they are going to get a good bottle or a prematurely oxidized example. The Lafon ’96 Perrières performed much more like my expectations for the Coche-Dury example, as it was initially quite tight and closed, and took some time in the glass to fully blossom. Eventually, this wine showed extremely well, soaring from the glass in a youthful blend of green apple, grapefruit, passion fruit, iodine, strong stoniness, and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, racy and soil-driven, with fine depth at the core, and outstanding length and grip on the backend. (Drink between 2010-2025).
John Gilman | 94+ JG
The breath-taking Meursault Perrieres has an extraordinarily defined and elegant nose of stones, earth and minerals. As Lafon tasted it he smiled and said, "yes, it is classic, like the Charmes." Classic to me means representative of the norm, and this wine is more than that, it is an exquisite example of the heights this vineyard can attain. Harmonious, lively, gorgeously delineated, silky-textured, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and profoundly deep, this wine's stone and mineral flavors seems to linger on the palate indefinitely. Wow! This magnificent wine should be consumed between 2004 and 2012.
The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
Dominique Lafon performed more batonnage than usual on his 1996s, "to give them more richness," he said. However, unlike some other vignerons, Lafon abandons the practice when the malos start because he wants his wines to be protected by the carbon dioxide gas that is a by product of a wine's malo-lactic fermentation. Lafon's yields were between 35 and 45 hectoliters/hectare, demonstrating his dedication to quality in this potentially high-yielding vintage.
Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP
Full yellow with a gold tinge. Rather exotic, developed aromas of marzipan and yeasty bread. With its strong impression of acidity and emerging minerality, this is a distinctly vertical wine, a bit yeasty and lacking in flesh, but a strong crushed-stone element arrives on the back end, extending the finish and giving it sappy grip. This distinctly idiosyncratic Meursault is at once salty, minerally and exotic, but fruit is not its strong suit. (38 h/h; "at least 4 grams total acidity," according to Lafon, who noted that the juice started at a high 6.4 g/l, as the end of the season was bright and chilly, with a constant north wind).
Vinous Media | 93 VM
(Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault "Perrières" 1er Cru White) I was really disappointed with the showing of this wine as I have had a number of brilliant bottles as recently as last year. This particular bottle was very toasty with sweet and beautifully precise if not especially complex flavors where the sap buffers the edgy acidity. To be sure, this was lovely but no where near the superb quality the finest bottles in my experience have displayed. 91/2005+ Note: from a bottle tasted in October, 2003 and another in May, 2006 - A kaleidoscopic mix of aromas that include citrus, minerals and green apples are followed by flavors of laser beam purity and focus that simply ooze class and breed with absolutely perfect balance. The finish is perfect with acidity that exquisitely frames each nuance yet remains in the background as a supporting, rather than dominating, element. This is a truly spellbinding wine and one cannot drink this and remain indifferent and in sum, the '96 Perrières is a reference standard expression of the terroir and incontestably one of the finest wines of this vintage. 96/2006+ Another bottle tasted recently was between the two reviewed above with maturing but displaying absolutely no trace of oxidation. Overall - the best bottles are brilliant but there is a huge amount of bottle variation.
Burghound | 91 BH
Wine Spectator | 96 WS
(Meursault “Perrières”- Domaines des Comtes Lafon) I have tasted the 1996 Perrières from Domaine des Comtes Lafon on four occasions in the last several years, with three of the bottles in varying degrees of premature oxidation, and the fourth fresh as a daisy and aging exactly as one would expect from this wine in its youth. Here is the note on the last pristine bottle tasted and would be indicative of how a perfect bottle should show today. Of course, with premox, one never knows if they are going to get a good bottle or a prematurely oxidized example. The Lafon ’96 Perrières performed much more like my expectations for the Coche-Dury example, as it was initially quite tight and closed, and took some time in the glass to fully blossom. Eventually, this wine showed extremely well, soaring from the glass in a youthful blend of green apple, grapefruit, passion fruit, iodine, strong stoniness, and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, racy and soil-driven, with fine depth at the core, and outstanding length and grip on the backend. (Drink between 2010-2025).
John Gilman | 94+ JG
The breath-taking Meursault Perrieres has an extraordinarily defined and elegant nose of stones, earth and minerals. As Lafon tasted it he smiled and said, "yes, it is classic, like the Charmes." Classic to me means representative of the norm, and this wine is more than that, it is an exquisite example of the heights this vineyard can attain. Harmonious, lively, gorgeously delineated, silky-textured, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and profoundly deep, this wine's stone and mineral flavors seems to linger on the palate indefinitely. Wow! This magnificent wine should be consumed between 2004 and 2012.
The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
Dominique Lafon performed more batonnage than usual on his 1996s, "to give them more richness," he said. However, unlike some other vignerons, Lafon abandons the practice when the malos start because he wants his wines to be protected by the carbon dioxide gas that is a by product of a wine's malo-lactic fermentation. Lafon's yields were between 35 and 45 hectoliters/hectare, demonstrating his dedication to quality in this potentially high-yielding vintage.
Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 94-96 RP
Full yellow with a gold tinge. Rather exotic, developed aromas of marzipan and yeasty bread. With its strong impression of acidity and emerging minerality, this is a distinctly vertical wine, a bit yeasty and lacking in flesh, but a strong crushed-stone element arrives on the back end, extending the finish and giving it sappy grip. This distinctly idiosyncratic Meursault is at once salty, minerally and exotic, but fruit is not its strong suit. (38 h/h; "at least 4 grams total acidity," according to Lafon, who noted that the juice started at a high 6.4 g/l, as the end of the season was bright and chilly, with a constant north wind).
Vinous Media | 93 VM
(Domaine Comtes Lafon Meursault "Perrières" 1er Cru White) I was really disappointed with the showing of this wine as I have had a number of brilliant bottles as recently as last year. This particular bottle was very toasty with sweet and beautifully precise if not especially complex flavors where the sap buffers the edgy acidity. To be sure, this was lovely but no where near the superb quality the finest bottles in my experience have displayed. 91/2005+ Note: from a bottle tasted in October, 2003 and another in May, 2006 - A kaleidoscopic mix of aromas that include citrus, minerals and green apples are followed by flavors of laser beam purity and focus that simply ooze class and breed with absolutely perfect balance. The finish is perfect with acidity that exquisitely frames each nuance yet remains in the background as a supporting, rather than dominating, element. This is a truly spellbinding wine and one cannot drink this and remain indifferent and in sum, the '96 Perrières is a reference standard expression of the terroir and incontestably one of the finest wines of this vintage. 96/2006+ Another bottle tasted recently was between the two reviewed above with maturing but displaying absolutely no trace of oxidation. Overall - the best bottles are brilliant but there is a huge amount of bottle variation.
Burghound | 91 BH
Wine Details for 1996 Comte Lafon Meursault les Perrieres
| Type of Wine |
Burgundy White
: No one can express the full potential of Chardonnay quite like the visionaries from Burgundy. With an almost entirely single-minded devotion to the noble varietal in question, they continue to push the boundaries of quality, to the joy of their many fans worldwide. Discover the nuances of every producer and come out changed forever. |
|---|---|
| Varietal |
Chardonnay
: Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever. The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further. The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety. The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne. Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide. Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape. The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal. |
| Country |
France
: Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world. For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide. France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity. France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive. |
| Region |
Burgundy
: Situated just west of the beautiful river Saone, the hills and valleys of Burgundy stand as they have stood since medieval times, and you can almost hear the cheerful chatter of vineyard workers from miles away. Indeed, France's identity in the world of wine would be incomplete without the inclusion of Burgundy and its many viticultural achievements. Every little sub-region of the area boasts a unique soil composition, which, when combined with the area's climate conditions, creates an incredibly diverse and appealing selection of fine wines. Every new bottle is an adventure of its own, and a snapshot of its birthplace. You could spend years sampling great Burgundian wines, and you would still have a lot to learn, which is what makes the region so compelling for veterans and novice wine lovers alike. No matter what your taste in wines may be, there is a winery in Burgundy that could mesmerize your mind and make your senses scream with joy. And what better way to spend a comfy summer afternoon with your friends and family than with a classy bottle from some of the region's most reputable wineries? From the noble slopes of Cote d'Or to the flatlands near various settlements, let us help you on your journey as we explore Burgundy's most delicious and renowned wines. |
Overview
| Producer | C.Lafon |
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