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2006 Abreu Madrona Ranch

2006 Abreu Madrona Ranch

96+ RP

Featured Review
Abreu’s first venture with Cabernet Sauvignon was from the Madrona Ranch, which is essentially the lower hillsides of Spring Mountain, just northwest of St. Helena. The dense purple-colored 2006 Madrona Ranch (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot) is extraordinary. Its nose of charcoal, espresso roast, blackberries, cassis, crushed rocks, and white chocolate is followed by a ripe, pure wine with a fabulous mid-palate texture (a characteristic of all these wines), and good balance as well as length. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and keep for 30 years. I can’t close without saying that it is unfortunate that the story of viticulturists like David Abreu, who is probably more meticulous and dedicated both to his sites and those he consults with than any other viticulturist I have met in Europe or California, combined with his love of French wines and his obsessive pursuit of world-class wines at his own sites, is a story that still hasn’t been told by enough people. Abreu, among many others, is why California has undergone a historic qualitative revolution over the last twenty years. Yet, in many elitist wine circles, it continues to be ignored despite the overwhelming evidence that many California vineyards are better managed than their European counterparts, and the winemaking and vineyard sites are potentially even grander. Heresy in some circles I know, but as always, the truth is in the bottle. In vino veritas! What a line-up of wines from superstar viticulturist David Abreu and his talented winemaking assistant, Brad Grimes! Abreu draws fruit from four sites that he owns partially or completely - the Capella Vineyard in St. Helena, his 12-acre parcel on Howell Mountain, the Madrona Ranch vineyard slightly northwest of Capella on the lower slopes of Spring Mountain, and the extraordinary Thorevilos Vineyard, which he owns with Ric Foreman. The cuvee with the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Abreu’s 12-acre vineyard on Howell Mountain. David Abreu is proud of this vineyard as it is planted in the red Aiken soils of the region. In addition to approximately 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the blend includes tiny percentages of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot included in these wines appears to be rising dramatically as the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon drops as Abreu and Grimes recognize the potential for Cabernet Franc in selected Napa sites. Its inclusion gives a wine far more singularity and complexity. However, these are all remarkable wines of great richness and individuality from what I’m sure history will confirm in 50-100 years, some extraordinary grand cru-like vineyard sites. There are about 200-250 cases of each of these cuvees, and, as most readers know, about the only way you will latch on to a bottle or two is to get on the winery’s mailing list. The three vintages of Capella tend to be mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, but also 20-30% Cabernet Franc and some Petit Verdot are included in the blend. Abreu and Grimes are looking to make Capella their St.-Emilion statement for Napa Valley. As utterly profound as all Abreu’s wines tend to be, one vineyard that seems to just knock me over is the site David Abreu co-owns with Ric Foreman, Thorevilos. The percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot have jumped dramatically, and, like its siblings, it is no longer entitled to be called a Cabernet Sauvignon, but rather is a Proprietary Red. Robert Parker

Robert Parker | 96+ RP

Critic Reviews

Abreu’s first venture with Cabernet Sauvignon was from the Madrona Ranch, which is essentially the lower hillsides of Spring Mountain, just northwest of St. Helena. The dense purple-colored 2006 Madrona Ranch (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot) is extraordinary. Its nose of charcoal, espresso roast, blackberries, cassis, crushed rocks, and white chocolate is followed by a ripe, pure wine with a fabulous mid-palate texture (a characteristic of all these wines), and good balance as well as length. It will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring, and keep for 30 years.

I can’t close without saying that it is unfortunate that the story of viticulturists like David Abreu, who is probably more meticulous and dedicated both to his sites and those he consults with than any other viticulturist I have met in Europe or California, combined with his love of French wines and his obsessive pursuit of world-class wines at his own sites, is a story that still hasn’t been told by enough people. Abreu, among many others, is why California has undergone a historic qualitative revolution over the last twenty years. Yet, in many elitist wine circles, it continues to be ignored despite the overwhelming evidence that many California vineyards are better managed than their European counterparts, and the winemaking and vineyard sites are potentially even grander. Heresy in some circles I know, but as always, the truth is in the bottle. In vino veritas! What a line-up of wines from superstar viticulturist David Abreu and his talented winemaking assistant, Brad Grimes! Abreu draws fruit from four sites that he owns partially or completely - the Capella Vineyard in St. Helena, his 12-acre parcel on Howell Mountain, the Madrona Ranch vineyard slightly northwest of Capella on the lower slopes of Spring Mountain, and the extraordinary Thorevilos Vineyard, which he owns with Ric Foreman. The cuvee with the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon comes from Abreu’s 12-acre vineyard on Howell Mountain. David Abreu is proud of this vineyard as it is planted in the red Aiken soils of the region. In addition to approximately 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, the blend includes tiny percentages of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot included in these wines appears to be rising dramatically as the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon drops as Abreu and Grimes recognize the potential for Cabernet Franc in selected Napa sites. Its inclusion gives a wine far more singularity and complexity. However, these are all remarkable wines of great richness and individuality from what I’m sure history will confirm in 50-100 years, some extraordinary grand cru-like vineyard sites. There are about 200-250 cases of each of these cuvees, and, as most readers know, about the only way you will latch on to a bottle or two is to get on the winery’s mailing list. The three vintages of Capella tend to be mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, but also 20-30% Cabernet Franc and some Petit Verdot are included in the blend. Abreu and Grimes are looking to make Capella their St.-Emilion statement for Napa Valley. As utterly profound as all Abreu’s wines tend to be, one vineyard that seems to just knock me over is the site David Abreu co-owns with Ric Foreman, Thorevilos. The percentages of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot have jumped dramatically, and, like its siblings, it is no longer entitled to be called a Cabernet Sauvignon, but rather is a Proprietary Red.

Robert Parker | 96+ RP

Wine Details for 2006 Abreu Madrona Ranch

Type of Wine California Red : Whether it's Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah or Zinfandel, Californian red wine producers have a lovely habit of taking a varietal and expressing its essence in a unique, never before seen way. From Napa Valley to the regions south of Los Angeles, there's a red for everyone - and it's never too late to start exploring.
Varietal Proprietary Blend : Proprietary Blend is a general term used to indicate that a wine is comprised of multiple grape varietals which are either “proprietary” to the winery or is blended and does not meet the required maximum or minimum percentage of a particular varietal. This also is the case for the grape’s place of origin, especially for region, appellation or vineyard designated wines. There are endless examples of blended wines which are labeled as “Proprietary Blend” and in conjunction with each region’s stipulated wine laws and regulations makes for a vast blanket for wines to fall into. Perhaps the simplest example is California; if a wine is to be labeled as Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, it is required to have at least 75% of the varietal (Cabernet Sauvignon) and 85% of the fruit must be cultivated from the Napa Valley wine district. If the wine does not meet the requirements, it is then labeled as Proprietary Blend.

Country US : As one of the most prolific and innovative wine regions in the world, America is a joy to explore. Most wine connoisseurs will agree that the nation's finest and most compelling wines are being produced today, which means that we have front-row seats to one of the most inspirational stories in wine history. While other regions tend to focus on specific wine styles and have somewhat strict rules as to which varietals you could grow, areas like California have few such restrictions in place. As a result, creative visionaries behind America's most reputable estates have been able to develop compelling, unique, and innovative styles, with a level of terroir expression that rivals even France's largest giants.
Region California : With a history of wine production that dates back to the 18th century, California currently sits as one of the world's most prolific and reputable wine regions. With an area as vast as California, you can expect a colorful collage of terroir profiles, a series of microclimates, and micro-environments that give the wine a unique, memorable appeal. The region's produce is far from homogenized in that sense, and it would take you countless hours to sample all of it. While the region boasts scars from the Prohibition era, it went through what can only be described as a viticultural Renaissance sometime after the 1960s. At that point, California went from a port-style, sweet wine region to a versatile and compelling competitor on the world market. Today, no matter which way your taste in wine leans, you can find a new favorite producer among California's most talented.

Notable sub-regions include legendary names like Napa Valley and Sonoma County, places that any wine lover would die to visit. California's quintessential warm climate allows for incredibly ripe fruit expressions, a style that provides a stark contrast to Old World-inspired, earthy classics. Even where inspiration was clearly taken from staple French appellations, Californian winemakers put their own unique spin on the wine.

Overview

Producer Abreu : “Early on, it was all about the vineyards,” asserts David Abreu. As a third generation California rancher, Abreu’s playground growing up was the Napa Valley. This is also where he learned the skill and art of wine growing. He developed an understanding of what makes one vineyard produce great wines, while another’s is just good. His expertise was then honed over a long career managing vineyards for some of the most iconic properties in Napa, including Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, Pahlmeyer, Araujo Estate, and Bryant, to name a few. His involvement in the viticulture aspect of wine growing in the region has been instrumental in improving the quality of wines, raising the bar to another level.

It wasn’t until 1986 when Abreu experimented with his own property of Madrona Ranch, on the eastern edge of the Mayacamas Mountains in St. Helena. He had heard that the first vintage could either make or break a winemaker; however, this did not deter his efforts. The 1986 vintage in fact did not yield a successful product, to which he decided not to sell. He remained committed and in 1987 reaped the reward as it would become his first successful vintage and worthy of being sold.

In the beginning, he would leave bottles at restaurants, encouraging them to drink them with staff and if they liked what they tasted to give him a call. Many questioned his approach and what little success he might expect. However, his understanding of the vineyards, the soil and the fruit allowed him to prosper and began carving his own path. As the years progressed, so did the quality of the land and ultimately his wines. By word of mouth from winemakers and tasters in the Napa area, Abreu Vineyards began to gain traction. After a successful 1994 vintage Abreu was awarded instant popularity with wine lovers when famed wine taster, Robert Parker honored his Madrona Ranch with enthusiastic praise.

Today, Abreu operates four spectacular up-valley vineyards, with each yielding the respective fruit for each label designation. The vineyards of Madrona Ranch and Cappella reside in St. Helena on the valley floor which are relatively close to each other, with less than a mile between them. Las Posadas Howell Mountain is nestled on a hillside of Howell Mountain and Thorevilos (now called Ecotone Vineyard) just below it. David Abreu was the vineyard architect, vineyard manager and oversaw the planting of vines for all four sites.

The 70 acres of prime real estate are planted with Bordeaux varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and a small amount of Petit Verdot. Each single vineyard bottling has its own unique blend of varietal and soil structure which helps define the strong individual characteristics of each. In 2015 a fifth wine, Rothwell Hyde Napa Valley Red Wine, came to fruition which is an intimate reflection of the four vineyards. It encompasses the rich terroir, grape varietals, and characteristics of each vineyard.

The wine making process is led by chief winemaker, Brad Grimes, who implements early morning grape harvesting while the temperature is cooler. The fruit is diligently sorted twice prior to fermentation. The different grape varieties are then fermented together, which is a rare practice in the wine world. The wines age in 100% new French oak barrels for two years and then another two in bottle prior to release. Annual production for Abreu is rather limited with only about 500 cases produced. Though primarily allocated to a dedicated list of members, the wines have found their way to the secondary market where enthusiasts and collectors greedily seize any available bottles.

From the valley floor of St. Helena to the lofty Howell Mountains where the vines hang high above the fog line, the wines produced here are a true testament to the micro climate, terroir and the determined efforts of a master vineyard manager with a vision for cultivating tremendous wines from spectacular vineyards. David Abreu has planted his way to greatness and has stamped his name on the Napa Valley wine list of highly sought after, iconic estates

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