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2006 Billecart Salmon Le Clos St. Hilaire Brut Blanc de Noirs
99 JS
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Review
Baked raspberries, salted yellow plums, figs, walnuts, orange zest, mahogany and some toasted vanilla on the nose. Medium-to full-bodied with beautifully integrated, very fine bubbles. Dry, with exciting and unique white-pepper and sea-salt notes. Seamless. So harmonious. Salty and spicy clove notes evolving at the end. Amazing precision. Single parcel pinot noir, 100% vinified in oak barrels. No malo. 2g/l dosage. Disgorged November 2020. 6,750 bottles. Drink or hold.
James Suckling | 99 JS
Critic Reviews
Baked raspberries, salted yellow plums, figs, walnuts, orange zest, mahogany and some toasted vanilla on the nose. Medium-to full-bodied with beautifully integrated, very fine bubbles. Dry, with exciting and unique white-pepper and sea-salt notes. Seamless. So harmonious. Salty and spicy clove notes evolving at the end. Amazing precision. Single parcel pinot noir, 100% vinified in oak barrels. No malo. 2g/l dosage. Disgorged November 2020. 6,750 bottles. Drink or hold. | 99 JS
Although it was disgorged in November 2020, Mathieu Roland Billecart has been keen to delay the release. The ageing post disgorgement is just as important as that before it and sometimes overlooked, he maintains. The wine has an attractive Welsh gold colour, a lively and persistent mousse, and seductive aromas of nectarine, greengage and Victoria plum. I even noted a hint of spearmint. The palate maintains a youthful nervosité; behind that generous fruit, including red fruit (cherry mainly), hints of brioche and hazelnut and then an authoritative finish. Great potential. Drinking Window 2022 - 2036
Decanter | 93 DEC
Although it was disgorged in November 2020, Mathieu Roland Billecart has been keen to delay the release. The ageing post disgorgement is just as important as that before it and sometimes overlooked, he maintains. The wine has an attractive Welsh gold colour, a lively and persistent mousse, and seductive aromas of nectarine, greengage and Victoria plum. I even noted a hint of spearmint. The palate maintains a youthful nervosité; behind that generous fruit, including red fruit (cherry mainly), hints of brioche and hazelnut and then an authoritative finish. Great potential. Drinking Window 2022 - 2036
Decanter | 93 DEC
Wine Details for 2006 Billecart Salmon Le Clos St. Hilaire Brut Blanc de Noirs
| Type of Wine |
Champagne
: Nothing like a refreshing, vivacious glass of fine Champagne during a hot summer afternoon. Typically combining Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, each Champagne house has a distinct style. Whether you want to sample a single varietal (such as the 100% Chardonnay blanc de blancs) or a tasteful blend, no region can compete with Champagne. |
|---|---|
| Varietal |
Pinot Noir
: As one of the oldest grape varieties in the world, Pinot Noir has a long and storied history which began more than 2,000 years ago. This story spans form the time of ancient Roman influence to modern day trailblazing; Old World and New World grape growing. It also involves the most unlikely of “characters” from Cistercian Monks to the Holy Pope and even Hollywood actors; each playing a part in the development of the Noble Pinot Noir grape variety. For a grape that appears simple on the surface, it may be one of the most complex varietals on earth, playing a major role in the formation of some of the most profound and distinguished winegrowing regions in the world. Pinot Noir’s exact origin remains relatively unknown as it is far too ancient to have been recorded precisely. It is thought to have been cultivated in the rocky hillsides of Burgundy by Roman hands as early as the 1st Century AD. At that time, Roman agronomist Columella identified and tasted wine that very much seems to be consistent with today’s description of Pinot Noir. There are complex theories on how either the Greeks or Romans took cuttings of Vitis Vinefera (Pinot Noir) from the area of Transcaucasia (modern day Turkey, Iraq and Iran) and brought the wild vines to France. Speculation aside, what we do know is that the wine-loving ancient Romans spread their dominion far and wide, leaving grapevines in their wake. Their innovative devotion to cultivating wine in French soil set in motion, nurtured, and influenced the winegrowing culture that we very much enjoy today. Around 1000 AD, long after the dismantling of the Roman Empire, the history of Pinot Noir in Burgundy begins to have clarity, greatly due to the extraordinary record keeping of the Cistercian Order of Monks (formed from the Benedictine Order). The Cistercian Monks began gaining authority outside the area of what we know today as Dijon. Devoted to hard labor and prayer, the monks began cultivating the rocky hillsides of early Burgundy, painstakingly documenting detailed records of their vineyards. Centuries of specifying their practices, describing exactly how and exactly where vines thrived or failed and how the resulting wine tasted, the Cistercian Monks unwittingly created the world’s first harvest reports while simultaneously inventing the idea of terroir. These records and the notion that wines reflect their growing locales, permanently shaped the fundamentals of winegrowing and making terroir a critical concept. This concept really gained attention when Pope Urban V refused to return the Papal court to Rome from Avignon due to unavailability of Burgundy wines south of the Alps. The lack of commerce routes inhibiting the Burgundy wine trade did not affect the Cistercian Order of Monks as they were driven towards higher quality and excellence through religious devotion instead of monetary gain. Both the outward remarks of the Pope and diligent efforts by the monks helped place Burgundy in a class of its own. Pinot Noir would eventually spread its wings and infiltrate Champagne, Loire and Alsace, Provence, Sancerre and Languedoc, finding hospitable terroir and new purposes along the way. From bubbles to “pink” wine, it adapted to the soil, revealing the terroir through the wine itself. The early developments and manipulation of the Pinot Noir grape within France was a precursor for the inevitable. The varietal spread through Europe and eventually making a trip around the globe landing in the Willamette Valley, Oregon (planted in 1965 by David Lett). The Pinot Noir grape quickly found a niche in Willamette Valley where it shares the same latitude of 45 degrees north, experiencing similar sunlight as well as a similar cooler climate to that of Burgundy. A few years later it would be introduced to California where it found terroir hotspots in both cool and surprisingly hotter climates, thus spreading to Napa, Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, Carneros among others, birthing New World Pinot Noir winemaking. And, of course, there was the Pinot craze that occurred after the release of the movie Sideways which manifested “Pinot snobs” around America. The 2004 American comedy set the market on fire, increasing sales of Pinot Noir in the state of California by 170 percent. The varietal of Pinot Noir thrives in cool climates with terroir consisting of marl and limestone soils of extremely variable composition that mimics that of its ancestral home of Burgundy. For a grape that is notoriously difficult to grow, Pinot Noir is ubiquitous in winegrowing regions around the world, spanning 115,000 hectares. It may be a fussy grape, but when planted in the right location and climate, it reveals the qualities of its host terroir in many different manners. The Noble Pinot Noir grape has greatly impacted the world of winegrowing and making while birthing the concept of terroir; from fruit forward Pinots produced in warmer California localities to New World Oregon wines with Burgundian nuances to Rose in Provence, bubbly in Champagne to the infamous Domaine de la Romanee Conti and its eye watering prices and unrivaled quality. Pinot Noir has long lived the quiet, elegant lifestyle giving Old World winemakers and consumers an ethereal pleasure. New World winemaking has granted it the opportunity for worldwide consumption on any budget and creating the Pinot Phenom. The varietal is now enjoying the best of both “worlds.” |
| Country |
France
: Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world. For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide. France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity. France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive. |
| Region |
Champagne
: The sharp, biting acidity, cutting through the richness; the explosive force that shatters the bubbles as they rise to the surface; the intense flavor and compelling, lively mouthfeel; these are all hallmarks of a good Champagne. Most wines are made from a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, but there are pure-Chardonnay variants and ones that blend only Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. As a result, most wines come with a feeling of familiarity, if not nostalgia. Each Champagne house has its own unique style, so different bottles of Champagne may not resemble each other outside of the core varietal strengths. The soil composition of the subregion is characterized by belemnite and chalk, which lets it absorb heat during the daytime and release it at night. This terroir helps create the feeling of airy, playful lightness of fine sparkling wine. These wines were originally marketed towards royalty, and you can feel a hint of that elusive blue-blood elegance and confidence while drinking one. A good Champagne carries you away like a hurricane carries small debris, and you can feel the powerful life force in each bubble even. The characteristic Champagne "pop" has become a staple at parties and celebrations around the globe - when you hear it, good times are right around the corner. |
| Subregion | Mareuil-sur-Ay |
Overview
| Producer |
Billecart Salmon
: For over two centuries, the luxury Champagne house of Billecart-Salmon has passionately followed its family motto, “Give priority to quality, and strive for excellence.” This was the axiom set forth by Nicolas Francois Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon, who founded the house in 1818. As it appears, the successful family business has continued to perpetuate its legacy, achieving high international acclaim; their wines enjoyed in homes and top restaurants around the world, their flag-ship Brut Rose considered the benchmark and a bottle from the past, given the distinct honor of being named “Champagne of the Millennium.” Today, Billecart-Salmon is one of the most admired Champagne brands in the world; its label a symbol of excellence. The house remains a family love affair as the seventh generation now contributes to the success and legacy of the family name. In a region where tradition is followed unfailingly, Billecart-Salmon has been daringly innovative, embracing modern technology when it serves to further improve the quality and efficient production of their wines. The house has successfully developed a reputation for its unusual, yet inventive vinification practice called “double cold settling.” A method that has both set the house apart and increased quality. The gentle and timely process ensures purity of fruit prior to fermentation, bringing forth finesse, balance and elegance – the hallmark qualities of Billecart-Salmon. Since its inception over 200 years ago, Billecart-Salmon has striven for excellence, overcoming adversities (phylloxera and World Wars) improvising vinification methods to increase quality and helping to alter the face of rose Champagne. Upon the union of Nicolas Francois Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon (both members of families who owned vineyards around Mareuil-sur-AY) the couple founded the house and began producing and selling their own wines (a practice that was uncommon at the time, as most growers sold their grapes in bulk to negociants). Louis Salmon, Elisabeth’s brother and passionate oenologist, joined the estate and dedicated himself to winemaking. Nicolas Francois oversaw all operations and commercial activity. After several generations of familial inheritance, Billecart-Salmon would land in the hands of Charles Roland-Billecart, who assumed control of an estate ravaged by phylloxera and World War I. He found an empty house, scarce stocks and a looming financial crisis. With the reputation of the house at stake, he implemented the restructuring of the vineyards and the improvement of cellar conditions. After years of reconstruction, his efforts had returned the house to fine standing, increased product quality and returned the house to sales of more than 200,000 bottles per year in the mid-1930s. His eldest son, Jean, introduced to Champagne the technique of “cold settling” (as aforementioned) in the late 1950s, which revitalized the brand, introducing to the world a Champagne that possessed extraordinary finesse and elegance, thus becoming the hallmark of Billecart-Salmon Champagnes. The brilliance and ingenuity of the Billecart-Salmon family once again introduced another “innovation” in Champagne by giving new dignity to rose Champagne, which until then was considered of second class. Jean Roland-Billecart created Brut Rose, a Champagne very elegant in color and taste (due to its unusually high percentage of Chardonnay – 50%) that has since become the house’s flagship cuvee. This trailblazing effort not only brought the house high prestige, but also helped the world reimagine rose Champagne. In 1993, Jean’s eldest son, Francois, embarked up a radical change; buying back the Champagne stocks from supermarkets to reposition the brand and concentrate the distribution toward independent retailers and fine dining establishments. In 1999, a monumental achievement befell the house of Billecart-Salmon when a bottle of 1959 Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart was elected “Champagne of the Millennium”. The event took place in Stockholm over a three-day tasting, conducted by a jury of international experts who met to judge which Champagne would win the supreme title. It was attended by the most prestigious houses in Champagne, including Louis Roederer, Dom Perignon, Krug, and Salon. The house’s second entry, 1961 Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart was subsequently awarded second place. Since 2000, the house has invested heavily in prestigious parcels throughout Champagne in order to obtain the finest grapes, constructed a new oak winery (with the reintroduction of vinification in barrels) and has had continuous and flawless transition between family members who have participated in the long-term success of Billecart-Salmon, and share the same maxim, “Give priority to quality, strive for excellence.” Based in Mareuil-sur-AY (Vallee de la Marne Sub-Region) the stunning and idyllic family home of Billecart-Salmon rests in the heart of the majestic vineyards of Champagne. Traditional Champenois varietals are cultivated from 100 hectares of estate lands (within a 20km radius of Epernay) and also supplement these yields with purchased grapes from top vineyard sites, totaling 300 hectares cultivated across 40 Crus of the Champagne region. The Grand Crus of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay are carefully tended in the ethereal vineyards of the Montagne de Reims, the Vallee de la Marne and the Cote des Blancs winegrowing districts. The estate also owns a single hectare in one of the few enclosed parcels of Champagne, planted to Pinot Noir at the foot of the Mareuil-sur-AY hill, used to produce a special cuvee named after it. Billecart-Salmon’s tremendous collection of Champagnes is highlighted by Brut Rose, the wine that changed the landscape of rose in the region, sparking a trend that has become overwhelmingly popular. The portfolio also includes, Brut Reserve, Brut Nature, Brut Sous Bois, Demi-Sec, No1 Meunier Extra Brut, No2 Pinot Noir Extra Brut, No3 Meunier Extra Brut, Cuvee Louis Salmon, (tribute to Louis Salmon) the highly esteemed, rare and complex Le Clos Saint-Hilaire, and numerous vintage Champagnes including Nicolas Francois Billecart 2002, Elisabeth Salmon 2006, and Vintage 2006 Extra Brut. Each cuvee speaks of the exceptional individuality of the region’s terroir. Collectively, the Champagnes of Billecart-Salmon account for 1.75 million bottles on the world market each year. The house enjoys a major presence at the top of the market in each category, particularly their flagship. |
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