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2008 Pierre Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Vieille

98 JS

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Critic Reviews

Orange rind and spices, such as cardamom on the nose, together with sourdough and fresh fig . Some salted butter, too. It’s creamy, supple and silky, with a salty freshness. Soft bubbles. Long and chalky finish. 100% chardonnay from 90-year-old vines. Base wine fermented in stainless steel. Only made in exceptional vintages. Disgorged after 15 years on lees with 5g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

James Suckling | 98 JS

Wine Details for 2008 Pierre Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Vieille

Varietal Chardonnay : Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.

The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.

The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.

The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.

Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.

The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.

Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Region Champagne : The sharp, biting acidity, cutting through the richness; the explosive force that shatters the bubbles as they rise to the surface; the intense flavor and compelling, lively mouthfeel; these are all hallmarks of a good Champagne. Most wines are made from a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, but there are pure-Chardonnay variants and ones that blend only Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. As a result, most wines come with a feeling of familiarity, if not nostalgia. Each Champagne house has its own unique style, so different bottles of Champagne may not resemble each other outside of the core varietal strengths. The soil composition of the subregion is characterized by belemnite and chalk, which lets it absorb heat during the daytime and release it at night. This terroir helps create the feeling of airy, playful lightness of fine sparkling wine.

These wines were originally marketed towards royalty, and you can feel a hint of that elusive blue-blood elegance and confidence while drinking one. A good Champagne carries you away like a hurricane carries small debris, and you can feel the powerful life force in each bubble even. The characteristic Champagne "pop" has become a staple at parties and celebrations around the globe - when you hear it, good times are right around the corner.

Overview

Producer Pierre Moncuit : When Alex Moncuit acquired a few acres in the celebrated region of Champagne, France and began growing vines, he unwittingly wrote the first page of a beautiful family history. This acquisition, which occurred in 1889, would fortuitously thrust the Moncuit family into the world of luxury winemaking. The intimate tradition of cultivating this historic and beloved land remains a family affair to this day. More than a century later a label carrying his family name has become a jewel in the crown of the Cotes des Blancs, serving as a reminder of such a fateful occurrence in the Moncuit family history.

The Moncuit legacy began in the Grand Cru vineyards of Mesnil-sur-Oger, in the heart of the highly esteemed Cote des Blancs. The slope of Cote des Blancs spans 12 miles of chalk-rich soils and is home to the magnificent Chardonnay vineyards of Champagne. The Magic of Cote des Blancs is the symbiosis between the noble Chardonnay grape and the region’s exceptional terroir. The vineyards of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger are classified as 100% Grand Cru, with the quality of the vineyards coming from the fact that they are east-facing with a terroir comprised of topsoil over a base layer of chalk, with excellent hydric qualities thus allowing the chardonnay grapes to reach their full potential. The chalk soil was once ancient seabed and now contains millions of small, fossilized creatures. The minerality and salinity it imparts on Chardonnay translates into crisp, tight, well-balanced Champagnes with a pure and elegant aromatic intensity.

With Champagne being the coolest vine growing region in France, the Cote des Blancs sees bitterly cold winters and mild summers. Chardonnay generally loves such cool climate conditions but these vineyards excel particularly well thanks to the chalk-heavy subsoil and the east-facing vines that capture ample warmth from the morning sun. The white skin and flesh of the Chardonnay grape is the reason why the appellation is known as the “Blanc de Blancs” (white of whites) and is the exclusive varietal planted here.

In 1928, Alex’s son, Pierre Moncuit, convinced by the pedigree of his terroir, decided to make his own wines and commercialize them under his own name. His wife, Odile Moncuit-Delos assisted him on the commercial part of the reception of customers. The Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos pays tribute to him and his incredible foresight. Nicole, Pierre’s daughter joined the estate in 1977, quickly becoming passionate about growing vines and winemaking. In 1980, Yves joins his sister in the adventure and takes over the marketing. In 1982, due to health problems, Pierre left Nicole the complete management and that same year she signed her first vintage. A vintage that was immediately praised by critics as it won a gold medal in an international contest. This honor along with Yves’ marketing efforts, enabled the commercialization of the Champagne house in France and abroad. In 2007, Nicole’s daughter, Valerie joined the family business and Pierre Moncuit began to expand the horizons of an already legendary and authentic Champagne house.

Moncuit uses only one year of harvest for non-vintage wines when the weather conditions have been favorable throughout the year. Despite there being no rule in the matter, only tasting determines the moment of glory of a vintage. When it comes to ageing, the house refuses any rush. It is the time of the wine that prevails, each year dictating its law. Moncuit, in the interest of respecting its land, has naturally adopted for many years a sustainable mode of viticulture and in being certified HVE (High Environmental Value). Each step in the production of wines is carried out with the utmost respect for the Champagne tradition, with a single leitmotif: optimal quality. Each harvest is a rigorous selection of grapes is conducted, continuing a careful and respectful process all the way up to the bottling of wine; each step is considered crucial.

The rigor that the Moncuits impose on themselves at all levels paradoxically leaves the aromas to express themselves offering a fair interpretation of the terroir. Nicole and Valerie are committed to producing wines that show their passion for their profession, their desire to sublimate the land of their ancestors. The house has developed an ultra-modern winery built with the sole aim of respecting tradition and terroir and producing the wine most in line with Nicole and Valerie’s initial idea, allowing each plot to be worked individually until the time of bottling; an important asset and one which distinguishes their unique efforts in the region.

Pierre Moncuit in Le Mesnil sur Oger, owns a vineyard of about 20 hectares, exclusively planted to Chardonnay. 15 hectares in Grand Cru, a little bit less than 5 hectares in Sezanne, and a few areas in Premier Cru, its Clos (which Nicole’s Daughter owns). The house didn’t want to open up to other grape varieties, preferring to continue the family tradition and work to enhance the historical grape variety of its terroir. Working exclusively with Chardonnay allows the house to devote its efforts to allow the Chardonnay grape to express itself beautifully. In recent years, the house has however, begun to harvest Pinot Noir in Ambonnay (Grand Cru) which is used in the production of its Rose Grand Cru.

With vines reaching an average age of 50 years, Moncuit favors quality over yield and continually seeks to extract all the nobility of these old vines. Cuvee Nicole Moncuit Vieilles Vignes (Old Vine) testifies to this philosophy. The Chetillons Cuvee is sourced from a 90-year old plot, which perfectly represents the historic anchor of the house in the vineyard. Many efforts are taken to preserve its heritage and character. The Pierre Moncuit portfolio also includes Cuvee Pierre Moncuit-Delos Grand Cru, Cuvee Hugues de Coulmet as well as numerous Vintage Grand Cru.

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