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2010 Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs

2010 Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs

94 JG

Featured Review
(Ployez-Jacquemart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millésime (Ludes)) When another bottle of the lovely 2010 vintage of Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs from Laurence Ployez showed up in my box of samples for this article, I could not have been happier, as I love the wines from Ployez-Jacquemart and do not see them represented often enough on the lists of New York merchants who specialize in Champagne. As I mentioned in my last note on this superb wine, it was disgorged in May of 2021, after ten years aging on its fine lees, which is an almost impossible commitment to patience on the part of the Ployez family! As I mentioned in my last note, this cuvée is produced both from the family’s own chardonnay vines on the Montagne de Reims and fruit sourced from growers the estate has worked with for many years in Côte des Blancs villages such as Cramant, Oger, Cuis and Mesnil-sur-Oger. The vins clairs were barrel-fermented and the wine was finished with a dosage of just under four grams per liter in 2010. It delivers a simply superb bouquet of delicious apple, pear, a superb base of chalky soil, fresh-baked bread, Meursault-like notes of hazelnut, a dollop of buttery oak and a gently floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and elegant, with an excellent core, lovely mineral drive, elegant mousse, impeccable balance and focus and a long, bright and very complex finish. Fine, fine juice that deserves a place in every well-stocked Champagne cellar! (Drink between 2022-2055) John Gilman

Cellar Tracker | 94 JG

Critic Reviews

(Ployez-Jacquemart Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millésime (Ludes)) When another bottle of the lovely 2010 vintage of Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs from Laurence Ployez showed up in my box of samples for this article, I could not have been happier, as I love the wines from Ployez-Jacquemart and do not see them represented often enough on the lists of New York merchants who specialize in Champagne. As I mentioned in my last note on this superb wine, it was disgorged in May of 2021, after ten years aging on its fine lees, which is an almost impossible commitment to patience on the part of the Ployez family! As I mentioned in my last note, this cuvée is produced both from the family’s own chardonnay vines on the Montagne de Reims and fruit sourced from growers the estate has worked with for many years in Côte des Blancs villages such as Cramant, Oger, Cuis and Mesnil-sur-Oger. The vins clairs were barrel-fermented and the wine was finished with a dosage of just under four grams per liter in 2010. It delivers a simply superb bouquet of delicious apple, pear, a superb base of chalky soil, fresh-baked bread, Meursault-like notes of hazelnut, a dollop of buttery oak and a gently floral topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, precise and elegant, with an excellent core, lovely mineral drive, elegant mousse, impeccable balance and focus and a long, bright and very complex finish. Fine, fine juice that deserves a place in every well-stocked Champagne cellar! (Drink between 2022-2055)

John Gilman | 94 JG
The 2010 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs is a powerful, deep wine. Lemon confit, brioche, green apple and tropical accents all give the 2010 its up-front, effusive personality. All things considered, the Blanc de Blancs is a terrific effort in a very challenging year. I would prefer to drink it over the next five years or so. It would be a shame to miss it at this stage of openness. Disgorged: April, 2021.

Antonio Galloni | 93 AG

Wine Details for 2010 Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs

Type of Wine Champagne White
Varietal Chardonnay : Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.

The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.

The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.

The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.

Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.

The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.

Country France : Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.


Region Champagne : The sharp, biting acidity, cutting through the richness; the explosive force that shatters the bubbles as they rise to the surface; the intense flavor and compelling, lively mouthfeel; these are all hallmarks of a good Champagne. Most wines are made from a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, but there are pure-Chardonnay variants and ones that blend only Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. As a result, most wines come with a feeling of familiarity, if not nostalgia. Each Champagne house has its own unique style, so different bottles of Champagne may not resemble each other outside of the core varietal strengths. The soil composition of the subregion is characterized by belemnite and chalk, which lets it absorb heat during the daytime and release it at night. This terroir helps create the feeling of airy, playful lightness of fine sparkling wine.

These wines were originally marketed towards royalty, and you can feel a hint of that elusive blue-blood elegance and confidence while drinking one. A good Champagne carries you away like a hurricane carries small debris, and you can feel the powerful life force in each bubble even. The characteristic Champagne "pop" has become a staple at parties and celebrations around the globe - when you hear it, good times are right around the corner.

Overview

Producer Ployez-Jacquemart

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