2012 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut

98
WE
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2012-philipponnat-clos-des-goisses-extra-brut
 

Wine Critic Reviews for 2012 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut

This single vineyard, one of the steepest in Champagne, produces fabulous wines. Richness restrained by the minerality from the terroir is balanced by the structured Pinot Noir fruits that bring touches of toast, spice and white fruits. Drink through 2025 at least.

Wine Enthusiast | 98 WE
Disgorged in April 2021 with the usual 4.5 grams per liter dosage, Philipponnat's 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses offers up generous aromas of pear, pomelo and peach mingled with hints of honeycomb, macadamia nut and fresh bread. Full-bodied, broad and vinous, it's fleshy and textural, with a strikingly concentrated core of fruit, compelling mid-palate plenitude, bright acids and a pillowy pinpoint mousse. Demonstrative, even dramatic, its youthful generosity is deceptive, as it's only with some bottle age that real complexity will emerge.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 97+ RP
The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is a Champagne of extraordinary elegance and finesse. Silky and aromatic, the 2012 impresses with its mid-weight, refined personality. Hints of kirsch, red plum, flowers and chamomile open gently in the glass. Clos des Goisses is often a rich, vinous Champagne, but the 2012 comes across as restrained and understated in all the right ways. Its aging potential will be measured in decades not years. Sadly, severe spring frost took with it a startling 50% of the crop. According to Charles Philipponnat Pinot fared better than Chardonnay. Ultimately, though, the Goisses blend is a typical two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. (Originally published in May 2021)

Antonio Galloni | 97 AG
Aromas of bread dough, mandarin, strawberry, raspberry and light dry earth follow through to a full body with lightly candied fruit, phenolic tension and a clear, bright finish. Mineral. Pure. Dry and layered at the end with a note of chalk. No malo. 61% pinot noir and 39% chardonnay. Drink now.

James Suckling | 97 JS
A wonderful nose blending a wonderful combination of fruit and sweet patisserie elements - lemon, apple, grapefruit and pear with buttery biscuit and roasted hazelnut notes. The palate is strikingly bright filled with textured, lively and persistent bubbles underpinned by balanced acidity and depth of flavour overall. A really well-constructed Champagne from the acclaimed 2012 vintage giving body, weight, precision and drive with a long length. Each sip is so satisfying. Disgorged in April 2021 after eight years on the lees, 60% aged in Burgundy barrels and 40% in stainless steel. A dosage of 4.5g/l which is the same for every Clos des Goisses. This, alongside with the 1996 vintage are new to the Place de Bordeaux this year with Philipponnat the first Champagne house to use the distribution network. (Drink between 2021-2035)

Decanter | 95 DEC
An elegant and pure if restrained nose somewhat grudgingly offers up its softly yeasty aromas of apple, quinine and ripe citrus elements along with an appealing array of spice wisps. There is excellent richness to the relatively full-bodied and beautifully textured flavors that are supported by a firm but fine mousse while delivering fine complexity on the crisp, dry and lingering finale. In the context of what Clos des Goisses is known for, 2012 is a more generously proportioned vintage that is more forward than usual at only 10 years of age. As such, it could certainly be enjoyed now though my advice is to put your bottles away for another 2 to 5 years. (Drink starting 2024)

Burghound | 94 BH

Wine Details on 2012 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut

More Information
Producer Philipponnat
Region Champagne: The sharp, biting acidity, cutting through the richness; the explosive force that shatters the bubbles as they rise to the surface; the intense flavor and compelling, lively mouthfeel; these are all hallmarks of a good Champagne. Most wines are made from a combination of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, but there are pure-Chardonnay variants and ones that blend only Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. As a result, most wines come with a feeling of familiarity, if not nostalgia. Each Champagne house has its own unique style, so different bottles of Champagne may not resemble each other outside of the core varietal strengths. The soil composition of the subregion is characterized by belemnite and chalk, which lets it absorb heat during the daytime and release it at night. This terroir helps create the feeling of airy, playful lightness of fine sparkling wine.

These wines were originally marketed towards royalty, and you can feel a hint of that elusive blue-blood elegance and confidence while drinking one. A good Champagne carries you away like a hurricane carries small debris, and you can feel the powerful life force in each bubble even. The characteristic Champagne "pop" has become a staple at parties and celebrations around the globe - when you hear it, good times are right around the corner.
Subregion Mareuil-sur-Ay
Appellation Barbaresco
Climat/Vineyard Estate Vineyard
Cru Estate
Country France: Words fail us when trying to adequately portray France's place in the world of wine. It's downright impossible to imagine what wine would feel and taste like had it not been for France's many, many viticultural pioneers. Fine wine is the blood of France's vigorously beating heart, and it finds itself in many aspects of French culture. With a viticultural history that dates all the way back to the 6th century BC, France now enjoys its position as the most famous and reputable wine region on the planet. If you have a burning passion for masterfully crafted, mouth-watering, mind-expanding wines, then regular visits to France are probably already in your schedule, and for a good reason.
Type of Wine Champagne: Nothing like a refreshing, vivacious glass of fine Champagne during a hot summer afternoon. Typically combining Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier, each Champagne house has a distinct style. Whether you want to sample a single varietal (such as the 100% Chardonnay blanc de blancs) or a tasteful blend, no region can compete with Champagne.
Varietal Proprietary Blend: Proprietary Blend is a general term used to indicate that a wine is comprised of multiple grape varietals which are either “proprietary” to the winery or is blended and does not meet the required maximum or minimum percentage of a particular varietal. This also is the case for the grape’s place of origin, especially for region, appellation or vineyard designated wines. There are endless examples of blended wines which are labeled as “Proprietary Blend” and in conjunction with each region’s stipulated wine laws and regulations makes for a vast blanket for wines to fall into. Perhaps the simplest example is California; if a wine is to be labeled as Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, it is required to have at least 75% of the varietal (Cabernet Sauvignon) and 85% of the fruit must be cultivated from the Napa Valley wine district. If the wine does not meet the requirements, it is then labeled as Proprietary Blend.

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