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2018 Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner Am Berg
92 WE
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Critic Reviews
Lemon zest, white pepper and salty yeast on the nose promise complexity. The palate is juicy and imbues that salty, yeasty core with juicy pear and orange peel freshness. This is rounded but fresh with a lovely, long salty finish.
Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE
Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE
Wine Details for 2018 Bernhard Ott Gruner Veltliner Am Berg
| Type of Wine |
Austria White
: Few regions offer as much quality and diversity among their whites as Austria. Infused with the essence of varietals such as Gruner Veltliner, Welshriesling, and Pinot Gris (among others), these wines range from very dry to exceptionally sweet and often come with extraordinary aging potential. Give in to their charms, and come out changed forever. |
|---|---|
| Varietal |
Gruner Veltliner
: When it comes to winegrowing in Germany, Austria and Alsace, the grape variety that most often comes to mind is Riesling. This is a fair assessment given Riesling dominates most of Germany and much of Alsace, but… Austria, in its own right, is the ancestral home to one of the most fascinating and complex varieties in the world: Gruner Veltliner. Up until the 1990s, the consumer market outside of Austria had been mostly incognizant of its existence; however over the past few decades, Gruner Veltliner has blasted through its shroud of anonymity and onto wine lists and dinner tables around the world. Today, Gruner Veltliner is the most widely cultivated grape variety in Austria, covering approximately 17,000 hectares of vineyards space. It has seen such world-wide exposure that no self-respecting restaurant, whether in New York or Hong Kong, can afford to be without at least one example of Austria’s signature white wine grape. As the accomplished MW (Master of Wine), critic and wine writer, Jancis Robinson insists, “…Gruner Veltliner has impinged on the consciousness of the wine world recently and the quality of all Austrian wines has become so excitingly and consistently high that no fine wine enthusiast can afford to ignore them.” The varietal’s renaissance can be greatly contributed to the massive shift in the flagship grape’s vinification process. As an era of ripe, alcoholic and flashy Austrian white wines, many late harvested and often showing the effects of noble rot or Botrytis Cinerea, dwindles out of favor, it has given way to fresher and more precise examples that are better at showcasing the characteristics of the country’s many diverse wine regions. The Austrian climate, terroir and topography greatly contribute to the grapes characteristics and ultimately the wines produced. There is very little Mediterranean influence due to the Alps, thus creating a strong continental climate. The mountainous, landlocked country has pronounced temperature shifts from day to night and from summer to winter. The many terraced vineyards scoring the landscape as well as the proximity of the Danube River (which flows through the norther regions) creates numerous varied meso-climates. The terroir is mostly comprised of sand, gravel and loess, which has been deposited by the Danube over the many millennia. The late ripening greenish to foxy-yellow berries of Gruner Veltliner thrive in its native terroir. The vines can be quite vigorous and need a great deal of care and attention to produce healthy yields. The varietal is highly susceptible to many vineyard diseases such as powdery and downy mildew. A high-trellising system developed by Austrian winemaker, Lens Moser, in the 1950s has greatly contributed to the growth, quality and success of the varietal over the course of its more modern era. When yields are healthy and kept in check, Gruner Veltliner can be a very versatile grape. Due to its versatility and naturally high levels of acidity, the grape can be fashioned into several different styles, which are broken down into several categories. For example, the wines of the Wachau region, which has become one of the top producing locations in all of Austria, is structured into three tiers. The first is Steinfeder, which focuses on minerality; it is light, fresh and tangy with a maximum of 11.5% alcohol. These wines are often bottled with a slight spritz to lift the wine and emphasizes its fresh, fruity notes. The second style, Federspiel, includes wines that are spicier, show more weight and complexity with an alcohol level between 11.5%-12.5% and are racy, precise and elegant. Smaragd is the richest and a most full-bodied Gruner Veltliner styling. These wines are richly textured, well-structured and require several years in bottle before reaching developed maturity. Like Riesling, there are many avenues one could take down the proverbial rabbit hole of the more complex side of Gruner Veltliner; its levels of ripeness and tiers of quality that break down even further, clear down to single-vineyard wines. For simplicity, Classic Gruner Veltliner wines show citrus aromas of lemon peel and grapefruit, complimented by stone fruits, lime, flint, fresh vegetal notes (green pepper) and its trademark hint of white pepper. Half of the country’s Gruner Veltliner hails from the Weinviertel Districtus Austriae Controllatus or DAC (Similar to AOC in France). Some of the most notable regions (DACs) include Wachau (as aforementioned) Kremstal and Kamptal. Wines from the vineyards of these regions are the finest expressions of Austrian Gruner Veltliner. The varietal has inevitably traveled beyond the borders of Austria and is now widely cultivated in Slovenia and the Czech Republic and to a lesser extent in Northern Italy, New Zealand, Australia and the United States. |
| Country |
Austria
: The landlocked country of Austria, in the heart of Europe, is a land of breathtaking beauty; from its rolling hills, steep slopes and valleys to its many terraces and specific regional sites which possess features that belong to the visible charm of the country’s landscape. Hidden beneath the precious soils and rocks of this wondrous landscape, which may not be visible, but of great importance to winemaking is the life-blood of the land because it significantly influences the choice of grape variety and vineyard management. This geological and vinification symbiosis has become an incredible proficiency that Austrian winemakers have honed over a long period, creating wines that truly define the terroir. Of all the major winegrowing regions in Austria, Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal have certainly proved to be the finest locations for cultivating high quality grapes. These regions reside on the eastern part of the country, where the terroir and climate are perfectly attuned to the varietals cultivated. Lower elevations consist largely of rich, deep soils composed mostly of loess, giving way to heavy, fruit-forward wines. The many hilly and terraced vineyards are composed of free-draining gravel, which allows for the production of age-worthy wines. Due to the country’s location and the presence of the Alps, there is very little Mediterranean influence, thus creating a strongly continental climate. Warming easterly breezes and high sunshine hours provide plenty of ripening opportunities for the grapes. Ripening happens slowly and evenly here, creating a balance between sugar and acidity in the grapes and, in turn, making balanced wines. However, the climate is still tempered by the presence of the Danube and the Neusidelersee Lake to the south, creating a myriad of micro-climates and further developing complex growing conditions. Austria is renowned for its world-class production of Gruner Veltliner, its most important and most widely planted grape variety. It accounts for 32.5 percent of all vineyard space. In the past, the country was known for its sweet and botrytized version of the varietal, but producers have turned to making a more consumer-friendly, crisp, aromatic style. This modern approach has allowed its star varietal to be mentioned alongside some the finest whites on today’s market. Riesling ranks second among all white grapes grown. The finest examples of these two varietals hail from its three main growing regions (Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal). White varieties truly dominate the country’s production; of the 44,913 hectares under vine, 30,300 are cultivated to white grape varieties, which include Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling and Pinot Blanc (known here by its German name Weissburgunder). Red wine production may be overshadowed, but to be overlooked. Red grape varieties, such as Blaufrankisch, Saint-Laurent, Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder) and its most prized red varietal, Zweigelt, flourish in the large Austrian region of Burgenland, producing wines of incredible intrigue. Zweigelt is the second most widely planted varietal in Austria, accounting for 13.9 percent of all vineyard space and produces richly colored wines with a deep, bright core of spiced cherry and raspberry flavors. The Austrian wine industry has been molded not only by its prized terroir, but also by the talent and determination of its vintners. Producers such as Heidi Shrock and Weingut Prager have risen to world-class status and are commanding global recognition. Producers may be turning to modernized ways of appeasing ever-changing palates, but is also balancing it with traditional methods, retaining such classics as the sweet Ausbruch and Strohwein. Stricter wine laws and regulations have greatly improved the quality of winemaking and in the process, has garnered world-wide attention. Austrian producers are preserving an age old tradition that began over 2000 years ago, yet reforming it into one of the leading wine producing countries in the world. |
| Region |
Austria
: Austrian winemaking has had ups and downs in its reputation. This inconsistency created a cloud of doubt that fortunately caused a full-on winemaking renaissance in this country. Today, Austria is a symbol of combining old with the new, its innovative approach to viticulture taking full advantage of the experience and knowledge collected over the years. As a result, this beautiful mountainous region now boasts some of the most pristine and elegant white wines in the world. Its signature grape, Gruner Veltliner, can instantly be recognized by its citrusy undercurrents and sweet, charmingly fresh flavor profile. Austria brings plenty of fresh air into the world of traditional viticulture with this flagship wine that's closely followed by Riesling, especially from regions of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal. Don't be surprised if you come across a wonderful Chardonnay, Welschriesling, Pinot Blanc or perhaps even a Sauvignon Blanc and learn it's from Austria; the country has done exemplary work around white wines and is finally receiving some overdue recognition for it. For red wine lovers, this region showcases a lovely selection that includes Blaufrankisch, Saint-Laurent, Zweigelt and Pinot Noir. These ripe, straightforward and spiced beauties can be cellared for decades, so you can drink them now or store for the next generations. |