2018 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco Italy (Other)

2018 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Bianco

98 JS

Featured Review

This is another fantastic white and continues to be one of the best from Tuscany. It’s so perfumed with sliced apples, pears and kiwis, as well as cream, hot stone and sea. Granite. Full-bodied yet energetic and layered with red-wine sensibility. Extremely long finish. Great wine. James Suckling

James Suckling | 98 JS

This wine is really quite terrific, and with 6,500 bottles made, it is easier to find (and more affordable) than Bibi Graetz's new single-vineyard expression of Ansonica, Colore Bianco. The 2018 Testamatta Bianco Isola del Giglio sees fruit blended from three bigger vineyard sites on Giglio Island and some smaller ones as well (Vigneto del Corvo, Scopeto, Ulivello, Radice and Le Grotte). In contrast to the Colore Bianco that revealed more consistency, the two bottles I sampled of this wine (one opened in the morning and one in the afternoon) showed very different results between them. The morning bottle was more fleshy and ample, while the just-opened bottle offered very linear notes of citrus, apple and white peach. Some of the grapes are harvested early, in order to maintain that total acidity, and used as a blending agent with the rest of the wine. Green harvesting is not practiced here, as each vine is left on its own to ripen. Bibi Graetz tells me that the 2018 vintage was much easier and gave more satisfaction compared to the difficult 2017 growing season. Of course, like any white wine from the Tuscan Coast, you get a distinctive layer of sea salt on the close—in this case, mixed in with some freshly milled white pepper.

Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 95+ RP

Intense, featuring a creamy texture, saturated with peach, apple, lemon and baking spice flavors. This is underscored by bracing acidity, and the finish fades gracefully, evoking a gentle seashore note. Shows terrific balance, texture and length. Decant. Drink now through 2024. 480 cases made, 150 cases imported.

Wine Spectator | 92 WS

Type of Wine	Italy (Other) : There are dozens of grape varietals grown in Italy so no wonder they produce such a broad range of most exquisite wines. Some of the most cultivated red varieties are Nebbiolo, Aglianico, Sangiovese, and Barbera, while Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are also popular. Among whites, you're likely to find Pinot Grigio, Trebbiano, or Vernaccia varietals.
Varietal	Ansonica : The underappreciated and obscure Ansonica wine grape has become a sensation in Italy, where it is commonly utilized in varietal, blended and unique winemaking styles. It is becoming the Cinderella wine of the region, changing the minds of vintners and consumers alike. Ansonica has been used in Sicily (where it is known as Inzolia) for centuries; however, in the past few decades, the white grape has become immensely popular among winegrowers in Tuscany. The Ansonica grape has a long and complicated history with undetermined parentage and place of origin. What we do know is that the varietal is found in vineyards across Sicily, and of late has been infiltrating Maremma, which is known as Vermentino territory. The oblong shaped, thick-skinned Ansonica grape is yellow-golden in color with a bloomy rind. The pulpy of the berry is flashy and fragrant and has a lot of tannins. The plant grows large, straggly bunches and has traditionally been cultivated by manner of “bush-training;” however, more and more vintners are moving towards trellised-training due to the tight bunched clusters and their susceptibility to powdery mildew. It is widely used on the Islands of Giglio and Elba and in Maremma, Tuscany. It thrives in clay and sandy soils well above sea level, with an oceanic climatic influence. In Maremma, it has been used in blending with other local whites, including Grillo and Catarratto (both from Sicily) Vermentino and Damaschino. The novel technique of blending Ansonica with Chardonnay has been of great success. It is also becoming greatly popular as a single-varietal among many vintners. When made with precision, Ansonica on its own can yield bright wines with flavors of white stone fruit, salinity (sea spray material) and a nutty aftertaste. Wines made with Ansonica, in better productions, have good aromas of walnut, yellow fruit, acacia, broom and orange blossom with mineral nuances. They possess good body, thanks to the large amount of sugar. It has a good ability to raisin and therefore exploited in the production of sweet dessert wines in Tuscany and used in dry white, pure or blended in Marsala. Improved techniques and changing methods have altered its uses greatly, expanding growing locations and use of the increasingly popular Ansonica grape. According to Fabio Sereci, owner of Feudo Montoni, “Inzolia (Ansonica) is considered the Cinderella of wine, often undervalued, so much so that it is difficult to find in purity, and is often blended with more aromatic grapes, like Chardonnay or Grillo.” He insists that it gives the estate “a wine with strong aromatic impact and a sensuality on the palate accompanied by strong acidity, due to vineyard altitude (2,000 feet above sea level). It’s a Cinderella that becomes a princess.”
Country	Italy : Italy is renowned as one of the world’s greatest gastronomic havens; from certified Prosciutto di Parma to the sea-side seafood eateries on the island of Sicily. However, this epicurean experience could not possibly be as hedonistic without the ethereal combination of the country’s plethora of fine wines. It seems unfair that a nation should be able to boast, both, some of the world’s greatest cuisine as well as its greatest wines. Italian wine is one of the most sought after in the world, and has become the second most produced in the world, behind only France. Stretching an impressive 736 miles from northern Italy to the peninsula’s southern tip, the country’s geography generates an enormous array of topography, climate and soil structure. This is an extremely important quality of its winegrowing and making industry which lays claim to nearly 550 different grape varietals, which all desire their own necessities, in terms of terroir and climate. The still red wines of Italy truly characterize the nation’s vast and expansive terroir; Nebbiolo dominates Piedmont, where Barolo and Barbaresco reign king and queen of the region’s production. Hailing from Brunello di Montalcino in Tuscany, the rockstar Sangiovese grape has become synonymous with greatness. Vin Santo sweet wines have taken on a mighty feat of competing with the glorious wines of Sauternes, and of course, Prosecco. Prosecco, located in Trieste (northeast Italy) and its creation of luxuriously effervescent styles of wine has become Italy’s answer to Champagne. The Glera grape variety, which has become synonymous with the name Prosecco, is the main ingredient and is beloved in the appellation where the village of Prosecco’s name has become world renowned. The blurred boundary between Italy and the countries of Slovenia and Austria, where German influence still resonates through Friuli wines. The prevalence of Riesling and other such grape varietals is high in this region and have become extremely popular on today’s market. With nearly 702,000 hectares of grapevines covering the massive and diverse landscape, Italy’s annual average of 48.3 million hectoliters of wine production is second only to France in terms of volume and Spain in terms of hectares of vines. The country is vast and overwhelming when it comes to the culinary arts, but perhaps even this is overshadowed by its production of some of the world’s most sought after wines, whether the omnipresent Chianti to the highly collectible and sought after Amarone della Valpolicalla.
Region	Tuscany : Italian culture worships the concept of a shared meal, and their wines scream for a chance to be uncorked with your friends and family. The region's Mediterranean climate and hilly landscape combine to create a beautiful viticultural environment, where every chosen grape is brought to its full potential and transmuted into drinks worthy of gods. The vineyards are planted along the higher reaches of the hill slopes, creating a gorgeous view of the Italian landscape. Once your lips kiss the wine, you're sent spiraling down a veritable whirlpool of pure flavor, touching upon notes of sensuous cherry, nuts, floral hints and undertones of honey and minerals. The wines can be as sweet as a fresh summer romance, and carry an air of dignity and elegance about them that can stimulate your intellect for months as you contemplate the seemingly infinite intricacies and details in the texture. Tuscany is an important part of Italian viticulture, and sampling their wines is the closest you can get to visiting this heavenly region and experiencing the culture.