2019 Domaine des Malandes Chablis Envers de Valmur

94
DEC
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Wine Critic Reviews for 2019 Domaine des Malandes Chablis Envers de Valmur

Domaine des Malandes is a 29ha estate with the 'Envers de Valmur' an intriguing 'insiders' choice from vineyards abutting Grand Cru Vaudésir. Classic in colour, aroma and flavour profile on the palate, this is a fine Chablis with great potential for further ageing. Bright, focussed and mineral with a lovely balance between freshness, bright acidity and ripe fruit flavours. Long and precise on the finish. Drinking Window 2021 - 2027.

Decanter | 94 DEC
A slight notion of wet chalk appears alongside hints of lemon zest on this wine's fresh nose. Superbright and more open, the palate offers cooling, smooth chalkiness pervaded by lemony ripeness. It's a concentrated, elegant wine with depth.

Wine Enthusiast | 92 WE

Wine Details on 2019 Domaine des Malandes Chablis Envers de Valmur

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Producer Malandes: Every autumn, a magical event takes place in Chablis: Harvest. While nature is preparing itself for its next season, shedding leaves and colorfully transforming, Chardonnay grapes in Northern Burgundy are reaching their peak maturity under the golden rays of the sun. It is a time of joy and devotion as winegrowers reap the rewards of another long and dutiful year in the vineyards. For family-run, Domaine des Malandes in the heart of Chablis, this is no exception.

Second generation, winegrower, Lyne Marchive states, “The harvest date is the crucial moment of the year; we must reach the optimum maturity of the grapes but maintain a perfect sanitary state. Each plot will mature on a different date. Maturity samples are taken using a precise methodology,”

The history of the domaine began in 1949 when Lyne Marchive’s parents, Andre and Gabrielle Tremblay planted their first grapes in their Fourchaume vineyard. At the time, the frost and the lack of mechanization made the work in the vineyard particularly difficult and unprofitable. Despite these difficulties, Andre and Gabreielle developed their domaine. Andre brought the first straddle tractors to Chablis (lightweight and able to maneuver above the vine rows) ever searching for ways to increase quality and production. By the time the property had reached seven hectares, it was passed down to Lyne. She continued expanding the vineyards and modernizing the winery; she also traveled the world seeking to bring cognizance of her domaine.

Today, Domaine des Malandes operates 29 hectares of vines, representing each of the four sub-appellations of Chablis: Petit Chablis in the towns of Beines and Lignorelles, Chablis, the Premier Cru Climats of Vau de Vey, Cote de Lechet, Montmains, Fourchaume and Monte de Milieu and the Grand Cru of Vaudesir and Les Clos. Each of the plots’ soils and exposures are different, creating wines of unique personalities. The labels of Envers de Valmur and Tour du Roy have become quite popular with consumers, being incredible quality, value wines. With only 200,000 bottles produced annually (a quite low production volume for Chablis region) they have an impressive worldwide sales coverage.

Appreciated for their freshness, sophistication and minerality from the famous Kimmeridgean soil, unique to the vines of Chablis, the wines are considered (arguably) the finest expression of the Chardonnay grape. The harmonious union of the tremendous terroir and grape variety. The quality of the wine comes mainly from the quality of the grapes: it is the various works of the vines during the year which have their importance on the sanitary state, the yield, the concentration, and the presence of mineral elements essential to fermentation. Above all else, parcel location dictates the personality and quality of the wine.

The domaine’s objective during vinification is to let the personality of each terroir express itself. Depending on the terroirs, the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations take place either in stainless steel vats or in French oak barrels. Traditional Chablis vinification methods are greatly respected and the use of Oak is only implemented in the vinification of their Grand Cru, Les Clos. Their decision is based on the conclusion that Les Clos really accepts it, but do keep the wines exposure limited as to not “lose the wine.” They remain steadfast to the concept that Chablis must remain subtle as Chablis wines are renowned for their delicate, elegant, fresh and mineral qualities.

Since 2018, the winery has been managed by Lyne's children, Amandine and Richard. They're now focusing on the next wave of innovation; going organic and preserving the biodiversity of Chablis soils. Amandine states that in order to do that they must go out to the vineyard for ploughing and cutting grass three times more than if they were to use chemical weed killers and pesticides. It's much more work, but it better protects the environment, soil, and final product. Biodiversity is preserved and nourished through ploughing (by horse in some cases), which encourages grapevine root development. Longer roots get more nutrition from the rocks giving the wines that characteristic minerality so beloved of Chablis. Furthermore, the roots are able to draw water and nutrients from the subsoil, providing the essential acidity for structure and ageability. Everything done throughout the year bares fruit at harvest; a time when Domaine des Malandes celebrates not only the current vintage, but those of which have come before. Together, they have brought the domaine to where it is today.
Region Burgundy: Situated just west of the beautiful river Saone, the hills and valleys of Burgundy stand as they have stood since medieval times, and you can almost hear the cheerful chatter of vineyard workers from miles away. Indeed, France's identity in the world of wine would be incomplete without the inclusion of Burgundy and its many viticultural achievements. Every little sub-region of the area boasts a unique soil composition, which, when combined with the area's climate conditions, creates an incredibly diverse and appealing selection of fine wines.

Every new bottle is an adventure of its own, and a snapshot of its birthplace. You could spend years sampling great Burgundian wines, and you would still have a lot to learn, which is what makes the region so compelling for veterans and novice wine lovers alike. No matter what your taste in wines may be, there is a winery in Burgundy that could mesmerize your mind and make your senses scream with joy. And what better way to spend a comfy summer afternoon with your friends and family than with a classy bottle from some of the region's most reputable wineries? From the noble slopes of Cote d'Or to the flatlands near various settlements, let us help you on your journey as we explore Burgundy's most delicious and renowned wines.
Subregion Chablis
Climat/Vineyard Valmur
Cru Grand Cru
Country France: Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.



For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.



France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.



France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.



With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.

Type of Wine Burgundy White: No one can express the full potential of Chardonnay quite like the visionaries from Burgundy. With an almost entirely single-minded devotion to the noble varietal in question, they continue to push the boundaries of quality, to the joy of their many fans worldwide. Discover the nuances of every producer and come out changed forever.
Varietal Chardonnay: Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.

The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.

The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.

The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.

Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.

The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.

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