2020 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroirs de Chichee
Wine Details for 2020 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroirs de Chichee
|Type of Wine||France White|
: Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.
The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.
The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.
The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.
Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.
The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.
: Wine is the lifeblood that courses through the country of France, pulsing with vigorous pride and determination. Viticulture is not just a hobby or an occupation in France; it is a passion, a cherished tradition that has been passed down through generations of wine stained hands. Winemaking is a beloved art that has been ingrained in the culture, an aptitude instilled in sons by fathers and the hallmark for which France’s reputation was built, allowing it to be renowned as, arguably, the most important wine producing country in the world.
For centuries, France has been producing wines of superior quality and in much greater quantity than any other country in the world. It boasts some of the most impressive wine regions, coveted vineyards and prestigious wines on earth. The regions of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone, Sauternes and Champagne have become the benchmark, for which others aspire to become. Legendary producers such as Chateaux Margaux, Domaine De La Romanee Conti, Chapoutier, d’Yquem and Dom Perignon are idolized world-wide.
France has stamped its name on nearly every style of wine, from the nectar-like sweet Sauternes to hedonistic Chateauneuf Du Papes classic Bordeaux and Burgundy, to its sparkling dominance in Champagne. Many of the most infamous grape varietals in the world, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay originated in France and are not only beloved, but utilized in the creation of some of the greatest wines on earth. French wine production commands the attention of the wine market year after year. With over 860,000 hectares under vine, and numbers close to 50 million hectoliters of wine produced annually, France dominates the market and sets the standard for not only product quality, but also quantity.
France’s many contributions to the world of wine have been absolutely indispensable. The country is the originator of the term “Premier Cru,” coined the term Terroir (a French term so complex there is no literal translation) and has laid the blueprint for a structured appellation system, which others have implemented in their own countries. French vineyard techniques and winemaking practices are mimicked world-wide. California vintners have been replicating Rhone style wines for decades, South America has adopted the French varietal of Malbec and countries around the world are imitating Burgundian styled Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
With vast diversity in terroir, France is home to some of the most hospitable winegrowing locations on earth. The combination of topography, geology, climate, rainfall and even the amount of sunlight combined with the long historical tradition of winegrowing and making, has allowed the vintners of France to not only hone their skills, but learn from nature to create a product that like the world in which it resides… is very much alive.
: Situated just west of the beautiful river Saone, the hills and valleys of Burgundy stand as they have stood since medieval times, and you can almost hear the cheerful chatter of vineyard workers from miles away. Indeed, France's identity in the world of wine would be incomplete without the inclusion of Burgundy and its many viticultural achievements. Every little sub-region of the area boasts a unique soil composition, which, when combined with the area's climate conditions, creates an incredibly diverse and appealing selection of fine wines.
Every new bottle is an adventure of its own, and a snapshot of its birthplace. You could spend years sampling great Burgundian wines, and you would still have a lot to learn, which is what makes the region so compelling for veterans and novice wine lovers alike. No matter what your taste in wines may be, there is a winery in Burgundy that could mesmerize your mind and make your senses scream with joy. And what better way to spend a comfy summer afternoon with your friends and family than with a classy bottle from some of the region's most reputable wineries? From the noble slopes of Cote d'Or to the flatlands near various settlements, let us help you on your journey as we explore Burgundy's most delicious and renowned wines.
: There is a saying, “when you love what you do, you never have to work a day in your life,” which seems to perfectly narrate the story behind Patrick Piuze’s tremendous passion for winemaking. In his short but successful career, Piuze has labored diligently in one of the most beautiful regions in France, with the aim of making a real difference between “wine grower” and “winemaker.” His appetite for harnessing the incredibly unique terroir of the region has created a brand that has left its mark on the world of wine, particularly Chablis. Though he is not a vineyard owner, the quality of his wines suggests he certainly knows where the best vine roots are buried.
Lured by the beauty of Burgundy, in 2000 he joined Olivier Leflaive and his staff in Puligny-Montrachet for a harvest season. The following season he was entrusted with all Leflaive’s Chablis winemaking. After his four year tenure with Olivier Leflaive concluded, he undertook a project with Jean-Marie Guffens of Verget, which convinced him of the importance of terroir. He began making a name for himself by the quality of the wines he crafted, leading to his appointment of cellar master at the excellent Chablis producer Jean-Marc Brocard. But as the 2008 harvest loomed, he decided it was time to work alone. This was the birth of the Patrick Piuze label and one that has taken the region by storm.
Piuze understands and embraces the fact that, “…the only thing truly original in the world of wines is the underlying terroir and I have nothing else interesting to add. Anyone can copy anyone else’s techniques so what else is there to make great wines? I believe the answer is simple: Terroir.” This is an extraordinary admission and a brilliant summarization of how Piuze approaches winemaking. He is passionate about finding his wine’s identity in the tremendously unique and varied terroir. Furthermore, Piuze believes Chardonnay to be a formidable transmitter of the diversity of the subsoil. Every effort is made to protect and preserve this historic landscape as well as the quality of the grapes that are purchased from meticulous winegrowers by harvesting the plots which he chooses himself.
His desire is to work only with fruit from old vines and even then, only old vines that are planted exclusively within the original boundaries of Chablis. Piuze believes that if he respects these things, it will be almost impossible to make bad wine. He spies out great old vines and then picks their produce by hand himself (though machine picking is now the norm in Chablis). His specialty is bottling wines grown in very specific vineyards that are designed to showcase the particular qualities of those terroirs. His ability to harness the key components of the terroir, extracting a ‘sense of place’, the quality and personality of the soils and then producing a perfect representation of the appellation is truly remarkable.
The vineyards of Chablis are located in the northern part of the Bourgogne winegrowing region, close to Champagne, in a northerly zone. The climate is often described as continental, with long hard winters and hot summers, but it is, in fact, quite tricky to classify. The region is similarly influenced by a modified oceanic climate which sweeps through the appellation, creating numerous micro-climates. There are two major types of soil in Chablis that make the appellation so prized and productive: Kimmeridgian marl and Portlandian limestone. Kimmeridgian soil is important and most prevalent in Chablis; it practically defines the appellation’s limits. The grapes are able to grow in harmony with nature and when the time comes, man’s assistance in creating a pure reflection of its terroir is carried out with the utmost respect.
Piuze’s trading business offers him the privilege of buying grapes from different Chablis terroirs. Due to the various micro-climates and fantastic soil structure, Chablis has the particularity of producing wines that are distinctively dissimilar. His many bottlings include (but not limited to) Grand Cru from the climats of Bougros, Blanchots, Les Clos, Les Preuses, Valmur, numerous Premiere Cru bottlings, including Les Forets and Montmains, as well as several Village level “Terroir” wines, including Terroir de Chablis and Terroir de Cougris. His “Terroir” level wines are fermented and mostly aged in old stainless steel tanks, while his Premier and Grand Cru wines are fermented and aged in used barrels. Every step of the vinification process is carried out with passion and great respect for his two greatest assets; the Chardonnay grape and the undeniably unique and terrific Chablis terroir. His “work” is a true expression of his artistic abilities in the cellar…though when one loves what he/she does, it doesn’t have to be considered work.
John Gilman | 91+ JG