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2021 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay

95 VM

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From the critics:

96 JS

Critic Reviews

This has aromas of flint, toast, jasmine, dried pineapples, lemons and sea shells. Some cardamom and salted butter. Classy and driven, with a medium to full body and tight, sleek layers. Perfumed and bright. Everything in balance. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

James Suckling | 96 JS
The 2021 Chardonnay Hunting Hill is its usually sinewy, taut and lightly floral self. Often in the shadow of Maté’s Vineyard, Hunting Hill seems to be becoming more and more serious as the vines age - they’re around 20 years old. Expect a muscular, unyielding wine that has lemon and lime bitter notes, nectarine and even a whiff of seaside - all salty and briny.

Vinous Media | 95 VM

Wine Details for 2021 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay

Type of Wine New Zealand White : Great wines don't only come from Europe. New Zealand has some splendid white wines to offer to the world, based on different grape varietals. Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly one of the most commonly planted variety, but you can also stumble upon some sweet Pinot Gris, acidic Chardonnay, and even German Riesling, with its wide range of fruity flavors.
Varietal Chardonnay : Chardonnay has carved its path towards the title “king of white grapes” in subtle yet striking fashion, playing instrumental roles throughout the course of history. It was the chosen grape variety which celebrated the inception of the very first Champagne house - Ruinart, which insists “Chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through the Ruinart taste. “ “Remember men, it’s not just France we’re fighting for, it’s Champagne,” Winston Churchill. The infamous and celebrated French author, Alexandre Dumas once declared a high quality chardonnay wine from Le Montrachet was one that is only appropriate to sip “on bended knees, with head bowed.” And of course, history was made once again when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay was awarded first prize in the famous tasting of the “1976 Judgement of Paris,” changing the world’s view on California Chardonnay, inspiring vintners and altering the landscape of California winemaking forever.

The origin of the Chardonnay grape can be traced back to the small village of Macon in the Burgundy appellation of France. The varietal, whose name means “a place of thistles” in Latin, is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Like most prominent grape varietals, the exact circumstances of its inception are unknown; however, it is interesting to note that Gouais Blanc originated in Germany. It is speculated that the ancient Romans, who successfully subdued the Germanic tribes in 6 AD, planted Gouais Blanc in French soil, unwittingly prompting the crossbreeding of the two varietals. If this is the case, the history of the Chardonnay grape goes back much further.

The Noble Chardonnay grape variety is most happy in the winegrowing appellation of Burgundy, its home and birth place. Burgundy’s grand Terroir of marl limestone soils and cool climate allows the Chardonnay grape to express itself to its full zenith. Interestingly, the varietal is extremely flexible and can adapt to a wide diversity of soils, allowing the terroir in which it grows to dictate the qualities of the grape and thus revealing a multitude of personalities. For instance, there are subtle yet distinguishing differences in terroir in the Burgundian villages of Puligny-Montrachet, Chablis, Meursault, Corton Charlemagne, Macon, etc. which are all fashioned in their own unique way. The difference in each Climat or Lieu-dit, such as Le Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet) and Valmur (Chablis) can take one further down the proverbial “rabbit-hole” and into the wonderful, yet complex world of Burgundy wines. However, Burgundy is but one prime growing location for this tremendously adaptable grape variety.

The spread of Chardonnay would eventually take root in Champagne, where it excelled in the region’s cool climate and chalky, sub-soils. For top Champagne producers, it became the main ingredient in their high quality, high profile Blanc de Blancs. It would also begin to be blended with the two other acceptable varietals of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red skinned grapes). The chardonnay grape is now planted in 10,000 of the 34,000 hectares of Champagne.

Chardonnay would find its way to California in the late 1800’s but would remain obscure for more than a century due to ignorance of the varietal and lack of knowledge on how to marry it with appropriate terroir. Things changed in the 1970’s when Chardonnay saw a resurgence world-wide, mostly due to the 1976 Judgement of Paris. The unthinkable happened when a bottle of 1973 Chateau Montelena bested some of Burgundy’s finest chardonnay offerings from Batard-Montrachet and Meursault. This event helped place California on the map, changing the face of California winemaking forever. It rejuvenated the cultivation of the Chardonnay grape variety, which saw an exponential growth world-wide.
Much like the climats of Burgundy which have their own unique terroir, Chardonnay’s adaptability has found a home in the diverse appellations, terroirs and climates of California. The cool climate locations produce crisp wines with Burgundian nuances, while warmer climates produce wines with opulent, ripe fruit reminiscent of pineapple, mango and papaya. Terroir also dictates the personality, steel and concrete tanks versus oak, and the list goes. From buttery, oak-infused heady wines to crisp, refreshing cool climate fashioned Chardonnays, the grape variety can be extremely modified. There are not enough letters in Microsoft Word to demonstrate all the different nuances, qualities, differences of terroir, climate and winemaking techniques that would encompass in full, the details of the Chardonnay grape.

The well-travelled grape varietal of Chardonnay has become the fascination of consumers around the world, becoming the most written about of all grapes. Today, it is planted in over 40 countries, amassing an impressive 211,000 hectares (500,000 acres) across the globe. From Burgundy to Champagne, Napa to Sonoma, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand and Australia, Chardonnay graces vineyards around the world, captivating its audience with its multiple personalities. “So powerful is the ‘C-word’ on a wine label,” as the famed Jancis Robinson exclaimed. Since its discovery in Macon, this C-word has become a dominant force in the world of wine, changing history, winemaking and the understanding of winegrowing and its powerful attributes to a single varietal.

Country New Zealand : Thirteen hundred miles off the coast of Australia is the small island nation of New Zealand. The latter is often spoken of in conjunction with the former, but is very much deserving of its own story. Known far and wide for its aromatic and unique style of Sauvignon Blanc, the small wine producing nation is proving convincingly that it deserves a place among the top producers in the world. New Zealand has successfully developed a wide range of wine styles and is garnering global recognition for its viticultural prowess.



Vines have been cultivated in New Zealand since 1819; planted by none other than the father of antipodean (term used to describe a person from New Zealand and Australia) viticulture, James Busby. He was the country’s first true wine pioneer and helped pave the way towards creating a prosperous New Zealand wine industry. By the late 19th Century, Dalmatian settlers were cultivating vines throughout Auckland and Northland, providing the foundations for modern New Zealand viticulture. Sauvignon Blanc took leaps and bounds in the 1980s and 1990s producing a style of wine that was praised for its forward and herbaceous flavor and propelling the New Zealand wine industry to heights it had never before witnessed.



New Zealand’s key grape and driving force of its wine industry is without a doubt, Sauvignon Blanc. Of the 41,603 hectares under vine, Sauvignon Blanc is planted to 26,559, which corresponds to 64 percent of all vineyard space. Aside from the country’s mainstay, the aromatic whites of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer have all made good impressions on enthusiasts and wine professionals alike. It is not uncommon to see the regions of Hawke’s Bay, Martinborough and Central Otago gracing the label as they have become synonymous with the country’s well-received offerings. Marlborough is, however, the most productive wine growing region (29,415 hectares) and where Sauvignon Blanc thrives in its host’s hospitable climate and terroir.



Most winegrowing regions in New Zealand have a maritime climate and due to the geography of the land and its proximity to the coast (75 miles) the oceanic influence is ever present. The country lies on the boundary between the Pacific Ocean and the Indo-Australian tectonic plate contributing to the volcanic soils that are found in many wine regions, particularly in the North Island. Conversely, the landscape and geography of the south is greatly attributed to glacial movements. Geywake (a variety of sandstone) and schist are also contributing elements to the wide array of terroirs in New Zealand vineyards and form much of the soil present it the country’s rolling hills, mountainsides and many river terraces. Interestingly, there are very few wine regions on New Zealand’s west coast due to the strong westerly winds from the Tasman Sea. The Kaikoura and Southern Alps mountain ranges offer shelter from these harsh conditions and greatly improve growing conditions in the major wine regions.



While the aromatic white varieties have found a niche in the cooler parts of the South Island, Syrah and Bordeaux Blends (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet France) have taken to the warmer climes in Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne (Chardonnay from these areas have also become quite popular). The small, but intriguing portfolio of red wines produced would not be complete without the mention of New Zealand’s rising star, Pinot Noir; which has made a home for itself in the many popular wine regions, including Marlborough and Central Otago.



New Zealand may be a small wine producing country with an annual output of only 324 million liters, but it is one that offers a wide range of New World wine styles that have taken the world by storm, proving its own identity and a major player in today’s market.

Region Aukland
Subregion Kumeu
Climat/Vineyard Hunting Hill Vineyard

Overview

Producer Kumeu River

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