90-91 Point Wines

wines

The 2023 Viré-Clessé Quintaine, which I tasted last year from barrel, was bottled in August, a little later than before as they found it difficult locating the right day on the biodynamic calendar. It has a well-defined, very pure bouquet with yellow plum, nectarine and light crushed stone scents. I like the precision here. The palate is well balanced with a slightly creamy texture counterbalanced by a keen line of acidity. Perhaps it just lacks a bit of sustain on the finish, but this has energy and focus.Vinous Media | 91 VM

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet from Domaine Chartron is another very fine village wine. It delivers a refined bouquet of white peach, apple, chalky soil tones, spring flowers, a nice touch of fresh almond and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied, racy and sports a fine core of fruit, with a good soil foundation, seamless balance and a long, complex and nicely precise finish. Good juice. (Drink between 2025 - 2045)John Gilman | 91+ JGThe 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Village is a combination of Chartron’s own vineyard plus exchanges with other growers. This has commendable vivacity and focus, with Granny Smith and fresh Anjou pears on the nose. The palate is well defined with orchard fruit tones intermixed with touches of orange rind and spice. This has fine length and admirable precision for its class. It is recommended.Vinous Media | 89-91 VMMade from Les Benoîtes and young vine Caillerets. A lime tint to the colour, with some flesh on the nose, and a little well-judged oak. This is very prettily balanced, no more than medium depth, with a good fruit-acid balance. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024.Jasper Morris | 89-90 JMA more elegant and markedly more floral-suffused nose speaks of various white orchard fruit and quinine that is again trimmed in enough wood to notice. It can also be found on the rich and solidly voluminous flavors that possess a more sophisticated texture before concluding in a vaguely off dry finish. This is pretty but the off dry style appeals somewhat less to me than other wines in the range.Burghound | 88-91 BH

Green apples, sliced pears and wet stones on the nose of this fresh and crisp white. It’s light- to medium-bodied, clean and refreshing. Drink now.James Suckling | 90 JS

The NV Champagne Brut Reserve release is equal parts Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, with 25% reserve wine (3-4 years of wines), and it’s based on the 2020 harvest. A bright pale silver/yellow hue, it opens to fresh and fruity notes of graham cracker, ripe pear, fresh flowers, and wet stones. Medium-bodied and inviting, it’s a perfect aperitif, with a fresh and fruity note, a lively mousse, and a clean finish. Lovely, fruity, and refreshing, it can also be enjoyed at the end of a meal. Drink it over the next several years. Disgorged April 2024. 8 grams per liter dosage.Jeb Dunnuck | 91 JD

The NV (2020) Brut Blanc de Blancs Coulmet, from vines in Sézanne, is soft, open-knit and gracious, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Baked apple tart, apricot, dried flowers and spice are all beautifully laced together. This is such a pretty and alluring Champagne. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2025; multiple disgorgements throughout the year.Vinous Media | 91 VMThe NV Champagne Blanc De Blancs Coulmet Brut has a bright pale yellow hue and is entirely crafted from Chardonnay around the 2020 vintage. A classic and very charming Blanc De Blancs, it’s refreshing and approachable, with notes of powdery fresh flowers, lemon-lime citrus, fresh green apples, and bread dough. Medium-bodied, it’s pure and fresh with clean citrus flavors and a delicate, elegant mousse. Drink now or over the next few years to preserve its freshness. Disgorged in May 2025 with 7 grams per liter dosage.Jeb Dunnuck | 90 JDThe Coulmet bottling of Blanc de Blancs from Nicole Moncuit just arriving in the market is from the base year of 2020 and was disgorged in March of 2024, after three years aging sur latte. The vins clairs are fermented and raised in stainless steel and go through full malo. The wine offers up a lovely nose of pear, raw almond, chalky soil tones, bread dough and a topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, zesty and full-bodied, with a good core of fruit, fine mineral undertow, elegant mousse, brisk acids and fine length and grip on the complex and well balanced finish. The fruit from this hails from vineyards in the Côte de Sezanne, rather than from the family’s home village of Mesnil. Good juice. (Drink between 2024 - 2045)John Gilman | 90 JG

The NV (2021) Brut Blanc de Blancs Delos Grand Cru is terrific. The extra touch of dosage vis-à-vis the Extra Brut version helps soften the edges, something that is a big help in this 2021-base release. White flowers, spice, pastry, mint and dried orchard fruit are front and center. What a charmer. Dosage is 7 grams per liter. Disgorged: May 2025; multiple disgorgements throughout the year.Vinous Media | 91 VM