92-94 Point Wines

wines

The 2020 Viré-Clessé Quintainé Cuvée E.J. Thevenet was matured in epoxy-lined vats to regulate the temperate and oxygen ingress. The alcoholic fermentation finished around the beginning of summer. What a beautiful nose: dried honey, dandelion and a touch of lanolin coming through with time. This is very pure. The palate is slightly viscous on the entry, with admirable weight, a little waxiness and touches of ginger and curry leaf towards the complex finish. Recommended.Vinous Media | 92 VMI sold and drank Jean Thevenet’s wines dating all the way back to the vintages of the late1980s. But, it had been many, many years since I tasted one of the Domaine de la Bongranbottlings, as the last vintage of this wine that I sampled was the 2009. At that time, Jean’s sonGauthier was just taking the reins of the domaine. The 2020 Viré-Clessé is made in the long-timestyle of the estate, with very late picking, so that the wine comes in at 14.5 percent octane in thisvintage. It offers up a deep, tropical and botrytized bouquet of pineapple, pear, hazelnuts, brownedbutter, chalky soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused andcomplex, with a superb core of fruit, snappy acids…The wine is impeccably made and is probably about as good an example of botrytized chardonnay that one will ever taste.” John Gilman A View From the Cellar | 92 JG

This program appears to have gone through quite a dramatic transformation over the past years, passing from more extracted wines to much lighter and brighter expressions instead. The Prunotto 2020 Barolo is a big release of nearly 134,000 bottles, with fruit sourced from a variety of vineyards. More than its DNA, however, it’s the style of the wine that has taken a radical departure. This Barolo shows a light ruby color with a fragrant bouquet focused mostly but not only on violets and lilacs; red fruits follow with hints of aniseed and crushed stone. It’s easy-drinking, but it also shows new purpose, and that’s not an easy feat for a production this large.Robert Parker wine Advocate | 93 RPMacerated cherry, strawberry and menthol flavors mark this supple red. Balanced and lively, with a light, chalky feel on the finish. In the end, this is savory. Best from 2026 through 2042. 1,950 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 92 WSThe straight 2020 Prunotto Barolo is refined and fragrant, offering aromas of eucalyptus, wild herb, star anise, dog rose and perfumed berry. It’s also already extremely accessible, with a smooth palate that features succulent strawberry, blood orange and licorice alongside silky tannins. Drink through 2030. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KOThe 2020 Barolo is a lovely entry-level offering from Prunotto. Medium in body and ethereal, the 2020 shows the more gracious, understated side of Barolo off to great effect. Crushed flowers, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, herbs and citrus peel are beautifully liftedVinous Media | 90 VM

Enticing fruit-cocktail nose with a lemony twist, as well as some honey and meadow flowers. Medium-bodied with intense, super clean fruit flavors and a delicious finish. So well balanced. Enjoy now.James Suckling | 93 JSA blend of equal parts fiano and greco, this wine offers flavors of cool citrus in a round, creamy texture. Scented with apple blossom, chamomile and bee pollen, the wine gains richness with air, yet remains high-toned and refreshingWine & Spirits Magazine | 91 W&SA creamy white, with juicy yellow apple and pear fruit laced with hints of vanilla, verbena, anise and toast. Reveals a subtle, pleasing plumpness that’s refreshed and balanced by citrusy acidity and a tang of salinity. Fiano and Greco. Drink now. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.Wine Spectator | 90 WS

This estate makes a bevy of terrific dry whites in addition to an incredible Sauternes. Starting with the 2021 Lions De Suduiraut Blanc Sec, which is a blend of 52% Semillon and 48% Sauvignon Blanc, it offers subtle grapefruit and citrus notes, a kiss of minerality, and a refreshing, vibrant, wonderfully balanced style on the palate. It’s a seriously good bottle of wine to drink in its youth.Jeb Dunnuck | 94 JDThe 2021 Lions de Suduiraut Blanc Sec is gorgeous. Rich, creamy and expressive, the 2021 is exquisite in its balance of textural richness and freshness. Orchard fruit, white flowers, mint, lemon oil and chamomile envelop the palate, while bright floral accents perk up the finish. Lions is the new name for the Blanc Sec, which is the same wine as before.Antonio Galloni | 91 AGA tangy white with sliced grapefruit, apple and celery character. Medium body. Fresh finish. White pepper. Dry and chalky.James Suckling | 91 JS

Juan António Ponce told me 2021 is one of those vintages when you realize in wine you never know everything... He thinks the 2021 Clos Lojen is the most complete vintage ever for this wine, with unusual freshness (despite "normal" parameters like a pH of 3.7 and five grams of acidity) and 12% alcohol. It’s intense and has varietal Bobal typicity with good weight. It fermented in 4,500-liter oak vats with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts and matured in 4,500-, 10,000- and 15,000-liter French oak vats for six months. This is sharp and austere, with lower alcohol and is more mineral than fruit-driven. Incredible value. 60,000 bottles produced.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RPThis is a bobal with clarity and silken length, even as its scent fills the head with purple grape skins and bergamot spice. Friendly, in search of a chill for a summer night, this is a by-the-case buy.Wine & Spirits Magazine | 90 W&S

The 2021 Zinfandel Old Vines shows plenty of Lodi exuberance. Succulent red/purplish fruit, leather and sweet spice are front and center, with bright acids that perk things up on the mid-palate and finish. The 2021 is delicious and also a terrific value.Antonio Galloni | 92 AG

Here the wood treatment is somewhat more prominent though it is still reasonably discreet and easily allows the spicy nose of plum, green tea, dark currant and humus to be appreciated. There is fine volume and punch to the caressing yet powerful middleweight plus flavors that culminate in a dusty, palate coating and impressively lingering finale. This compact effort should amply repay mid to longer-term keeping.Burghound | 93 BH

Here too a discreet application of wood is present on the equally cool, wonderfully pure and exceptionally pretty aromas of essence of red currant, violet, lavender and a hint of earthiness. There is both excellent volume and mid-palate density to the intense and sleek mouthfeel that is again thanks to the polished tannins supporting the focused and sneaky long finish. As is often the case with the Lignier Charmes, it is a combination of power and finesse.Burghound | 92-94 BH

Brisk fresh pale yellow. There is a fine floral quality here too. Then almost a touch of super-ripeness with a bit of bacon fat, followed by a more saline finish. Interesting and high quality in its style. Drink from 2024-2029. Tasted Oct 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-93 JMHere too there is noticeable petrol character to the floral, mineral reduction and green apple-suffused aromas. The middleweight flavors don’t possess the same density but they are markedly finer and much more mineral-driven on the linear, youthfully austere and crisp finale. This could also use more depth but the underlying material and balance should allow that to occur if given a chance.Burghound | 90-92 BH

The perfumed nose is very pretty with a beautifully layered array of cherry, plum, spice and soft earth and sauvage nuances. The focused, intense and beautifully delineated medium-bodied flavors possess evident minerality that also suffuses the dusty and youthfully austere finale. This could use better depth but the balance is impeccable and overall, it should age gracefully for as long as anyone might reasonably want to.Burghound | 94 BH

A more floral and elegant nose freely offers up its slightly riper array of plum, black cherry and exotic spice nuances. The lilting and beautifully detailed middleweight flavors deliver outstanding length on the balanced, youthfully austere and stony finale. This doesn’t presently have quite the same depth as the Clos l’Audignac but the texture is more sophisticated and overall, this is class in a glass.Burghound | 93 BH

The 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a brooding blend of crushed black cherries, ash, mentholated herbs and autumnal spice. Soft textures are quickly offset by a saturation of tart red and black fruits while firming tannins add further tension toward the close. It’s long and structured with a liquid-stone minerality and a bitter tinge of clove.Vinous Media | 94 VMAged for six months in Slavonian casks, the lovely 2021 Rosso from Tricerchi opens with aromas of dog rose, strawberry jam and oak-driven spice. On the polished, savory palate, lithe tannins and fresh acidity accompany ripe Morello cherry, raspberry compote and licorice. Drink through 2026. Abv: 14% Kerin O’Keefe | 92 KO

Savory herbs mix with brined olives, flowery underbrush and dried blueberries as the sultry 2021 Brunello di Montalcino comes to life in the glass. Silken textures and mineral-inflected red berry fruits envelop the palate as edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks. The wine tapers off long and structured, leaving a lingering tension and saturation of tart blackberry to fade slowly.Vinous Media | 93 VMCinnamon, red berries, orange rind and smoke. Medium-bodied, with chalky, chewy tannins that reveal a sense of delicate fruit toward the finish. Drink or hold.James Suckling | 92 JS

A touch of hazelnut chocolate to the ripe plums and cherries, with hints of minerals and dried grapefruit. Structured and bright, with almost full body and a succulent, vertical finish. A lot going on at the end. From organically grown grapes. Drink from 2027.James Suckling | 94 JSThe Col d’Orcia 2021 Brunello is a fragrant, full-bodied red that opens with heady scents of violet, new leather, forest floor and ripe wild berry. As the estate lost 40% of its grapes due to frost, they made no single vineyard offerings in 2021 so the best grapes, including those from its lauded Poggio al Vento site went into the classic Brunello and it shows, thanks to its structure, finesse and energy that accompany flavors of wild raspberry, red cherry, blood orange and star anise. Taut, polished tannins offer seamless support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2029–2041. Abv: 14.5%Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is youthfully delicate, with nuances of dusty dried cherry, rose petals and licorice. The palate displays round textures and cooling acidity, with ripe red and black fruits beneath an air of inner florals. The long, energetic finish leaves fine-grained tannins and a pleasant chewy concentration.Vinous Media | 93 VM

With 2.15ha, a blend from three plots in Chapelot, Montée de Tonnerre and Pied d’Aloup, with vines in the latter now 87 years old. As expected of Montée de Tonnerre, this will need a lot of time to come round. Powerful, primary and concentrated, with restrained mineral, stony notes. Great purity here, salty finish.Decanter Magazine | 93 DECLike the Vaillons, this is also quite firmly reduced though there is some wood influence present as well. The focused and beautifully refined flavors ooze minerality on the almost painfully intense, bone-dry and strikingly long but not especially austere finale. This is very stylish as well as classy. Well worth checking out.Burghound | 93 BHChapelot, Pied d’Aloue, Cote de Bréchain. Mostly tank. Very pretty lemon and lime colour. A clean, incisive bouquet, very pure and with class. Tension at the back, extremely youthful but definitely promising. Drink from 2025-2028. Tasted Jun 2022.Jasper Morris | 91-94 JM

Lavender, eucalyptus, underbrush and dark spice aromas form the nose on the lovely Camigliano 2021 straight Brunello. Taut and full-bodied, the elegantly structured palate features ripe red cherry, wild strawberry, licorice and orange zest accompanied by a backbone of velvety tannins. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh acidity. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5 % Kerin O’Keefe | 94 KOThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a bouquet of crushed strawberries and cherries, complicated by cedary spices and nuances of blood orange. It shows the weight and pliancy of its southern roots, with depths of mineral-inflected red berry fruits and mulling spices. The wine tapers off with medium length, gentle structure and a subtle cranberry tinge that pinches at the cheeks.Vinous Media | 93 VMThis has a savory character of cured meat, iron and wet stones, with spices and red berries in the background. The medium- to full-bodied palate is sleek and smoothly integrated, with well-defined yet supple tannins and a fleshy core of red fruit. Bright and juicy. From organically grown grapes. Better from 2027.James Suckling | 93 JSThe Camigliano 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is a certified organic wine that opens with ripe blackberry and blackcurrant followed by an oak-driven tarry and smoky note that adds weight to the bouquet. The aromatic profile is robust and persistent with a clear emphasis on dark fruit grown on the estate’s warmer southwestern exposures, and the palate closes with a hint of sweetness, soft tannins and a fundamentally velvety mouthfeel, making this an immediately approachable Brunello.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 91 RPIn Montalcino’s balmy western extreme, Camigliano was among those significantly hit by frost in 2021. The estate lost up to 90% in its lowest parcels, 30% in the rest. Ripeness and concentration are palpable in this hedonistic offering, yet it avoids jamminess as fruit purity is kept intact. Leather, vanilla and rust permeate the wild red berry core, while soft, plush tannins give luxurious layers that are stratified by sweet acidity. A generous and immediate Brunello with legs and stuffing for the next decade.Decanter Magazine | 91 DEC

Crushed blackberries mix with sweet lavender and mentholated cherries as the sensual 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is cooling to the senses with a lifted array of ripe plums and strawberries elevated by an herbal tea infusion. Youthfully structured and linear today, it has a balance for cellaring, as a pleasantly tart tinge lingers long.Vinous Media | 93 VMAromas of violet, ripe dark-skinned berry, dark spice and wild herb form the inviting nose on the lovely 2021 Brunello from La Poderina. Juicy and polished, the palate offers ripe black cherry, raspberry and licorice set against taut, fine-grained tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2028–2036. Abv: 14.5% Kerin O’Keefe | 93 KODriven by dark fruit and spice, the La Poderina 2021 Brunello di Montalcino carries a high-octane profile with sweet tannins and a clearly felt 15% alcohol that shapes the wine’s overall impression. There is a softer side on the palate with ripe plum fruit and an opulent, approachable texture, though the style remains fairly one-dimensional, favoring immediacy over depth in this warm-vintage expression. Aging follows a regime of 24 months in oak followed by 20 months in stainless steel, with fruit drawn from 12.5 hectares of vineyards. Production totals 67,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPToasty and fruity wine with assertive, leafy aromas blended into the red cherries and raspberries. Light- to medium-bodied with crisp acidity and firm, chalky tannins that are nicely poised, but turn dry on the finish. Try from 2027.James Suckling | 92 JS

Restrained aromas of red cherries, raspberries, dried flowers, licorice, prunes and tobacco. Full-bodied, juicy and savory, it shows a very tasty palate with velvety tannins and a chalky, refreshing finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.James Suckling | 94 JSThe 2021 Brunello di Montalcino is expressive in the glass, with notes of crushed black cherries, sage, mint, cedar shavings and white smoke forming its inviting bouquet. It soothes the senses with silken textures and cool-toned acidity, as ripe plums and wild berries sweep across the palate. Edgy tannins envelop the palate with youthful poise. The 2021 finishes long and spicy, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge to linger.Vinous Media | 93 VMFramed by an earthy, dusty mineral tone, the Mocali 2021 Brunello di Montalcino delivers pressed blackberry and plum followed by spice and spent ember in a bold, upfront style. A hint of sweetness on the palate softens the texture and keeps the tannins accessible, though the wine ultimately feels fairly one-dimensional on the close. Aging takes place over two years in French oak botte followed by one year in large Slavonian oak casks, an élevage that clearly defines the estate’s stylistic imprint. Production totals 50,000 bottles.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 92 RPThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is a youthful ruby red color and is expressive and nicely layered on opening, leading with aromas of cedar, toasted baking spice, redcurrants, orange peel, menthol, and cranberries. Zesty and refreshing, this medium-bodied Brunello has fine tannins, bright acidity, and notes of dusty earth on the finish. Drink 2026-2035.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDIn Montalcino’s southwest, Mocali’s vineyards reach 400m above sea level on limestone-rich marls. The 2021 exudes its Mediterranean landscape with pine, strawberry bush and sundried tomato – hints of soy and vanilla add further nuance. Mouthfilling though not heavy, lush plum is swathed in soft, clayey tannins. Above all, the palate impresses with savoury, saline mineral appeal. Balanced and mellowed without lacking vibrancy, it will please upon release.Decanter Magazine | 92 DEC

This is aromatically similar to the Bressandes though as is typically the case, there are more spice elements in play along with a variety of floral nuances. There is also a bit more mid-palate density to the vibrant and tautly muscular flavors that flash good minerality on the balanced, long and mildly austere finale. This too is a lovely combination of refinement and power.Burghound | 92-94 BH

A cooler and airier mix is comprised by notes of plum, red and dark currant that are trimmed in noticeable wood and menthol influences. The medium-bodied and vibrant flavors possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel along with both good richness and minerality while delivering impressive power on the palate staining finish. The wood treatment aside, this is a classic Clos des Chênes.Burghound | 91-93 BH

An overtly floral-suffused and more expressive nose freely offers up elegant aromas of white orchard fruit, zest and a touch of spice. There is again excellent mid-palate density to the pretty middleweight flavors that exude evident minerality on the powerful, focused and superbly long finale. This is lovely and a wine that should generously repay extended cellaring.Burghound | 93 BH

Blueberries, cloves, cola and dried herbs on the nose. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, showing delicate red fruit framed by chalky, chewy tannins that taper toward the cedary finish. From organically grown grapes. Needs a couple of years to soften.James Suckling | 93 JSHints of mint lift dank mineral earth, flowery underbrush and crushed strawberries as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino evolves in the glass. It is delicate, nearly weightless, with bright red berry fruits and mineral tones riding a wave of brisk acidity. Inner rose tones linger through the long and spicy finale as edgy tannins resonate throughout.Vinous Media | 92 VMThe 2021 Brunello Di Montalcino is a medium red color and reveals enveloping aromas of baking spice, baked strawberries, toasted incense, and sweet herbs. Medium to full-bodied, it’s supple with polished tannins, a silky texture, balanced acidity, and an even finish. It has an appealing level of refinement in this vintage to drink over the next 10-12 years. Drink 2026-2036.Jeb Dunnuck | 92 JDMade with organically farmed grapes, the Collosorbo 2021 Brunello has aromas of plum, lavender, eucalyptus and dark spice. Bold and brawny, the palate offers dried cherry, prune, licorice and bitter orange before closing on the warmth of evident alcohol. Taut, close-grained tannins provide enveloping support. Drink 2029–2036. Abv: 15%Kerin O’Keefe | 91 KO

Shavings of cedar combine with dusty stone, licorice and earthy tones as the 2021 Brunello di Montalcino slowly evolves in the glass. It is juicy in style with vividly ripe red and blue fruits, while a tactile mineral tinge adds a pleasantly crunchy sensation toward the close. Spicy with a sharp citrus twang, hints of tart wild berry pinch at the cheeks as edgy tannins resonate.Vinous Media | 93 VMBright, spicy raspberries and cherries, together with bark and smoky tones. Medium-bodied, it’s very crunchy, with crisp acidity and chalky yet ripe tannins. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.James Suckling | 93 JS

The white 2021 Cargol Treu Vi has notes of pollen and yellow fruit with some browning apples. It has contained ripeness and 12.4% alcohol with a very low pH and high-ish acidity but comes through as more evolved and somewhat riper than the phenomenal Principia Mathematica form this same vintage. It has pungent flavors and a medium-bodied palate, with some spice from aging in 300-liter barrels for 10 to 11 months. 2,100 bottles were filled in August 2022.Robert Parker Wine Advocate | 93 RP